thibkaji
Active Member
It’s such a small part, you could probably recreate it with some round stock, like .04” dia.
An Unexpected Journey. Another Tie Bomber Build Thread.
- Thread starter mjhenks
- Start date
Thank you to those contributing on the kit parts and what models you need. It is quite a list of parts but nothing like what for instance the 5' Falcon needs. Now there is a SS build.
I will post my final dims. I did not think things were right but i also recognize that there is not a standard print so we all scale the best we can.
Armed with better dimensions i made another center block. When making one it is just as easy to make more than one just in case you mess up along the way. Standard machinist practice. I am not a machinist so i brought along four piece...
Drilling for 1/2-13 threaded hole. You can see that i have already put the step in the parts.
Tapping for 1/2-13 holes on the four sides of the blocks.
Last side.
Test fitting with my cylinders. You can also see here that i have already placed the two threads and screws to retain the 3/4" shaft. At this point the 3/4" shaft is also to length with 1/2-13 threads in each side. I did not get any photo's of that.
Ignore the piece of 17-4. I was testing out ways to transfer the line from the block to the cylinder for the next step which is cutting out the cylinder square so the block can pass thru. The idea was to spray paint the opposite side of the 17-4 block to leave a line that corresponded with the center block. More on that later.
I will post my final dims. I did not think things were right but i also recognize that there is not a standard print so we all scale the best we can.
Armed with better dimensions i made another center block. When making one it is just as easy to make more than one just in case you mess up along the way. Standard machinist practice. I am not a machinist so i brought along four piece...
Drilling for 1/2-13 threaded hole. You can see that i have already put the step in the parts.
Tapping for 1/2-13 holes on the four sides of the blocks.
Last side.
Test fitting with my cylinders. You can also see here that i have already placed the two threads and screws to retain the 3/4" shaft. At this point the 3/4" shaft is also to length with 1/2-13 threads in each side. I did not get any photo's of that.
Ignore the piece of 17-4. I was testing out ways to transfer the line from the block to the cylinder for the next step which is cutting out the cylinder square so the block can pass thru. The idea was to spray paint the opposite side of the 17-4 block to leave a line that corresponded with the center block. More on that later.
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chazzychaz
Sr Member
chazzychaz
Sr Member
Metal goodnes!!!
rbeach84
Sr Member
Some ideas are good ones. Some not so good.
I spend some time with the body tubes projecting out the lines from the armatures that need to be cut away to fit the tubes to the rectangle. Reading how others have done this and being lazy i started by using the aforementioned 17-4 block and painting guide lines onto the body tubes. This worked meaning in the loosest terms in that i got lines on the tubes. Something told me it was not going to work though.
The good idea therefor was to make extra body tubes. You can probably figure out now the bad idea...
All eight tubes were "painted" up oh so many ways this can go south.
So pretty below but fate had other plans.
I did not get any good images but the paint was a complete failure. (In case you missed that foreshadowing...)
I jumped to good-old-fassioned tape. Using my Mark-1 eyeball i projected out with tape where the lines should be. If your keeping score then you will see that all the same risks apply here other than over spray.
Did i mention i am lazy? If i only had a tool that cuts straight lines relative to how the part is held... Hey, i have one of those...
I was smart enough to realize things could still go sideways. I put each tube in the mill and machined a rectangle along the blue tape line leaving 1/16" gap for fitting. (Plus i had to hand file the corners square.) This was a wise move because i got nice parallel and perpendicular lines and was then able to hand file and hand fit each tube then to its armature. (Don't mix them up dummy...) I was able to hit the for/aft width on the money relative to the armature tube but the up/down was difficult.
My results and what i learned was.
A collection of parts, some part maps and Lord Vader for inspiration. (That is the stock Vader kit my son & I built some years back. His first model.)
All good adventure have chapters that don't go as expected. I am certain this was the last sideways skew for this project. Ya right....
I spend some time with the body tubes projecting out the lines from the armatures that need to be cut away to fit the tubes to the rectangle. Reading how others have done this and being lazy i started by using the aforementioned 17-4 block and painting guide lines onto the body tubes. This worked meaning in the loosest terms in that i got lines on the tubes. Something told me it was not going to work though.
The good idea therefor was to make extra body tubes. You can probably figure out now the bad idea...
All eight tubes were "painted" up oh so many ways this can go south.
- Are the tubes aligned to the armature?
- Are the tubes aligned to each other?
- Did you get the 17-4 block perpendicular?
- Did you get overspray?
- Did you use any other paint color but grey on the grey tubes so you have contrast?
So pretty below but fate had other plans.
I did not get any good images but the paint was a complete failure. (In case you missed that foreshadowing...)
I jumped to good-old-fassioned tape. Using my Mark-1 eyeball i projected out with tape where the lines should be. If your keeping score then you will see that all the same risks apply here other than over spray.
Did i mention i am lazy? If i only had a tool that cuts straight lines relative to how the part is held... Hey, i have one of those...
I was smart enough to realize things could still go sideways. I put each tube in the mill and machined a rectangle along the blue tape line leaving 1/16" gap for fitting. (Plus i had to hand file the corners square.) This was a wise move because i got nice parallel and perpendicular lines and was then able to hand file and hand fit each tube then to its armature. (Don't mix them up dummy...) I was able to hit the for/aft width on the money relative to the armature tube but the up/down was difficult.
My results and what i learned was.
- Tubes get wonky leading to you sanding one side of the square over the other leading to tilted tubes.
- Tape messes up the squareness of your cut leading to rotated tubes along the body axis.
- Tape also messes you up along the armature axis leading to converging tubes.
- The faster you can cut things out means the faster you make mistakes.
A collection of parts, some part maps and Lord Vader for inspiration. (That is the stock Vader kit my son & I built some years back. His first model.)
All good adventure have chapters that don't go as expected. I am certain this was the last sideways skew for this project. Ya right....
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chazzychaz
Sr Member
Thank you. I was wonder about the details from side to side. Also this photo really helps show the dashes (applied pencil markings?) much better.
chazzychaz
Sr Member
Man I would love one of those center blocks Please, ........
Understand. PM me.
Need one more part ID assist.
Is this part from. :
Tamiya 1/35 88mm Gunflak 36/37
Or
Hasegawa 1/72 Leopold tail gun
The two maps do not agree.
Thank you.
thibkaji
Active Member
It’s from the Leopold, part A16. You get four per kit, 12 total needed for the Bomber.
