Let's Talk All Things 3d for prop creation, Scan, Design, Sculpt (real and digital), Print and Finish

[greenmachines]

Just saw your posts and decided to take it for a spin. It does look to be good with props that are flat but once it goes from 2.5D to 3D it doesn't do well. Here are some I put together.

View attachment 1924764
"Salacious Crumb"

View attachment 1924767
"Stormtrooper"

View attachment 1924768
"Nien Nunb"

Although good for trinkets, I don't expect this method to ever have the precision required for accurate replicas. There is too much guesswork involved; a bit like just getting some clay out and putting these together from memory.

There are a few current promising techniques for 3D generation that incorporate ML (NerV etc.) that look promising in the future for replicas of stuff that doesn't exist anymore, e.g. Jabba. however mesh generation still isn't quite there for those.

I think that is just the beta. It only allows one photo so it isn't even hitting full stride yet. I did one of a sculpted horse of the ringwraiths and it is beautiful. They have a second one that does video so I think I can string some photos in sequence and try that one for full wrap around view. For props, it currently needs touchup but for one sixth and gaming objects, it is pretty close to print and paint. I made quite a few more after, bows, shields, helmets, all passable under some paint. The elven helmet even had a head inside, pretty sure it proves they are grabbing existing photos supplied elsewhere.

 

[TheDragon]

I think that is just the beta. It only allows one photo so it isn't even hitting full stride yet. I did one of a sculpted horse of the ringwraiths and it is beautiful. They have a second one that does video so I think I can string some photos in sequence and try that one for full wrap around view. For props, it currently needs touchup but for one sixth and gaming objects, it is pretty close to print and paint. I made quite a few more after, bows, shields, helmets, all passable under some paint. The elven helmet even had a head inside, pretty sure it proves they are grabbing existing photos supplied elsewhere.

Yes, I'd say that you'd have a better time with objects that fit closer to the dataset of models it was trained on like the helmet etc.

 

[Mottrex]

Orc sword good enough to go straight to printing in about 45 seconds:

View attachment 1924762

and now that I am too confused to either be super excited or thoroughly depressed, I am going to bed.

From a legalities point of view this is going to be an interesting avenue, give it a few months and who knows where Some future props could be but for that illusive greeblie or an item lost to time like for instance a foam Gremlin/OG King Kong which is all but armiture these days this could be a game changer ..

The higher the resolution of the image the greater the details produced and as mentioned earlier a scan of the same image a week or so later is giving much better results.


On a side note I tried a cartoon and it generated a pretty good likeness.

This bad boys certainly going to be printed..

 

[greenmachines]

First, I will build my chess set:

And then I will fix this elf's bow. I mean, truly, that picture is horrible right?

 

[TheDragon]

I've been thinking about this image to 3D generation tool for the past few days and what I could possibly use it for since seeing it for the first time after greenmachines posted about it. Which led me to today sit down for the past hour or two and try to use it in my own modelling workflow. I decided to input a Propstore image from the last auction of a Mandrake from Harry Potter to see what it could give me and got the following.

Input image Model Output
​

I thought it was a pretty good blockout of the shape of the prop so went and detailed it myself, let me preface this by saying I'm not very experienced at digitally sculpting. I started by playing around with the proportions before rejigging the face entirely then going crazy with texture brushes to get the bark and plant like textures before painting it by sampling colours from the initial propstore image. (The leaves are just planes with an image texture).

Left is the original output, Right is my altered sculpt

Finished Model

From this quasi test of it i've sort of warmed up to the idea of integrating image to 3D tools like this as a means to blockout organic parts. Big thanks to greenmachines for introducing this.​

 

[greenmachines]

I've been thinking about this image to 3D generation tool for the past few days and what I could possibly use it for since seeing it for the first time after greenmachines posted about it. Which led me to today sit down for the past hour or two and try to use it in my own modelling workflow. I decided to input a Propstore image from the last auction of a Mandrake from Harry Potter to see what it could give me and got the following.

View attachment 1927486View attachment 1927485
Input image Model Output
​

I thought it was a pretty good blockout of the shape of the prop so went and detailed it myself, let me preface this by saying I'm not very experienced at digitally sculpting. I started by playing around with the proportions before rejigging the face entirely then going crazy with texture brushes to get the bark and plant like textures before painting it by sampling colours from the initial propstore image. (The leaves are just planes with an image texture).

View attachment 1927487
Left is the original output, Right is my altered sculpt

View attachment 1927497
View attachment 1927494View attachment 1927495
Finished Model

From this quasi test of it i've sort of warmed up to the idea of integrating image to 3D tools like this as a means to blockout organic parts. Big thanks to greenmachines for introducing this.​

Big thanks to Mottrex on this for bringing us round to the makerworld 2d3d tool in post 105.

 

[greenmachines]

I am finding that Jintosh 's original advice to me in his 3d stl thread, consisting of about 3 to 4 software applications in series , was the real trigger to using a group of utilities/apps rather than hoping for the holy Grail in one piece of software. If you have a utility that is just the best at one feature and you want to share, throw up some examples. I'll repeat my bambu slicer one for cutting planes. Had found a youtube post about hopping over to bambu for cutting the bottom off, completely flat and fully healed (no massive hole destroying printability) to support larger production with less cleanup. This turned into using it any time I wanted to cut a truly flat plane without healing the cut after by manually stringing points together.

 

[greenmachines]

I've been thinking about this image to 3D generation tool for the past few days and what I could possibly use it for since seeing it for the first time after greenmachines posted about it. Which led me to today sit down for the past hour or two and try to use it in my own modelling workflow. I decided to input a Propstore image from the last auction of a Mandrake from Harry Potter to see what it could give me and got the following.

View attachment 1927486View attachment 1927485
Input image Model Output
​

I thought it was a pretty good blockout of the shape of the prop so went and detailed it myself, let me preface this by saying I'm not very experienced at digitally sculpting. I started by playing around with the proportions before rejigging the face entirely then going crazy with texture brushes to get the bark and plant like textures before painting it by sampling colours from the initial propstore image. (The leaves are just planes with an image texture).

View attachment 1927487
Left is the original output, Right is my altered sculpt

View attachment 1927497
View attachment 1927494View attachment 1927495
Finished Model

From this quasi test of it i've sort of warmed up to the idea of integrating image to 3D tools like this as a means to blockout organic parts. Big thanks to greenmachines for introducing this.​

This is the level of quality I really hope to get to. This is impressive work.

 

[greenmachines]

I needed a trigger guard and found the kit online,grabbed a screencap, tossed it in the 2d3d, kicked out a print:

And now we scale this baby up to 7.75 inch. Now, the sketchy bit..... it placed the screw holes as well.

 

[greenmachines]

Another tip I got from my printer buddy:

Print for strength in the right direction

So, I have mentioned this one, briefly, in other posts but today it became very important. When using an FDM printer, the layers become the crystallization line that fractures under stress. It is why glass is "tougher" than crystal; why wood gun stocks have the grain running with the direction of the barrel (rifles); and why printing long parts should be done horizontally. If you print a part, that is supposed to spring or hold side pressure (to itself), you want the grain (layers) of your print to be 90 degrees to the pressure (perpendicular).

I printed some small shims today. They looked perfect. They slide in through the side of a rifle stock (muzzleloader) and through a loop in the barrel to hold the barrel to the wood stock. I gave it a little test bend and pop, another, snap, crack, layer after layer. I re-aligned the print to print along the length instead of across it. It made all the difference. My new shims, called wedge pins, were now easily bent without snapping. This is for cosplay, so will not be holding a firing barrel.

Here is an example, from a few days back. The trigger would have snapped off if not aligned to the print direction:

 

[LuckyS7evine]

Hello everyone, I don't know if I'm in the right discussion, if it's not the right one I'll delete my message. I've been thinking about a project for a while and since I don't know much about CNC wood routers I thought I'd start my research here. I already know about 3D printing and molding. But today I was wondering if I couldn't still learn new things, my project is to create Loki's Mask, seen in the 1994 film The Mask. I was wondering what the performance of such a machine was and if it was possible to create such an object given the meticulous details on the mask. I've already seen several people who have managed to create beautiful replicas, but the detail of the wood is not there. The idea is to create the Mask in wood, inside and out, then 3D print the metal piece in the center, the nose of the mask. Thanks to those who can enlighten my path.

 

[greenmachines]

Hello everyone, I don't know if I'm in the right discussion, if it's not the right one I'll delete my message. I've been thinking about a project for a while and since I don't know much about CNC wood routers I thought I'd start my research here. I already know about 3D printing and molding. But today I was wondering if I couldn't still learn new things, my project is to create Loki's Mask, seen in the 1994 film The Mask. I was wondering what the performance of such a machine was and if it was possible to create such an object given the meticulous details on the mask. I've already seen several people who have managed to create beautiful replicas, but the detail of the wood is not there. The idea is to create the Mask in wood, inside and out, then 3D print the metal piece in the center, the nose of the mask. Thanks to those who can enlighten my path.

Cnc routers can use extremely small bits and would be able to do it if you had the software to do so and the 3d image. Other machines can do so with more options in the 4 and 5 axis range. Are you going as far as getting your own router? And do you already have a 3d image of the mask available or available to purchase?

 

[LuckyS7evine]

Thank you very much for your message. I already have a 3D model but it doesn't suit me, I would like to buy a machine for this kind of project it depends on the size of the machine. For the 3D mask I already work with an artist very talented for this kind of work.

 

[greenmachines]

Thank you very much for your message. I already have a 3D model but it doesn't suit me, I would like to buy a machine for this kind of project it depends on the size of the machine. For the 3D mask I already work with an artist very talented for this kind of work.

Cnc router tables have a very large range as they were the grandfather to the 3d printer. They came even before the laser cutter and the plasma cutting cnc. Most that would be in my range, not rich, are the ones that look and act just like a sling bed 3d printer but there are some big enough to do door panels and similar.

The only true technique that you would need to look into prior to choosing one or deciding this is the right path is the masks double sided nature.

This would require a software capable of zeroing out or homing, finding a point to start and having the 3d reference in play AFTER flipping it over. Cnc routers are generally 3 axis plunger style. They can move the head right/left and back/forth and change its height (plunge) but only the spendier ones can tip at an angle while lowering and rising for undercut areas. But none of those would automatically flip it over so you would need a plan to leave keys or corner grip points that allow you to rehome the piece after flipping it AND a software that allows you to adjust your cut image to do the same. A true cnc milling machine in 4 or 5 axis could do it in one go but is not a cnc router by any means, more like a boxed robot.

Example of cnc router: At door makers, they leave the corners untouched. When one side is done, they flip it over but can easily center/home the door because its external corners did not change and are what aligns the door in the jig. It is still the same height after being flipped so restarting on the other side is simple.

With the mask, some key or corner needs to be left attached to the mask after one side is done in order to align it again after flipping it over. Otherwise it is just flopping around on the table while attempting to cut the back.

There are production methods to get around this on large runs but would not be worth doing in a one off. It would be better to just leave strong corners attached and removed them manually after.

Anyone else have any ideas on a negative sculpt that is two sided?

 

[TheDragon]

Hello everyone, I don't know if I'm in the right discussion, if it's not the right one I'll delete my message. I've been thinking about a project for a while and since I don't know much about CNC wood routers I thought I'd start my research here. I already know about 3D printing and molding. But today I was wondering if I couldn't still learn new things, my project is to create Loki's Mask, seen in the 1994 film The Mask. I was wondering what the performance of such a machine was and if it was possible to create such an object given the meticulous details on the mask. I've already seen several people who have managed to create beautiful replicas, but the detail of the wood is not there. The idea is to create the Mask in wood, inside and out, then 3D print the metal piece in the center, the nose of the mask. Thanks to those who can enlighten my path.

Personally I wouldn't go the route of CNC milling, the cost and learning curve for operating the machine far outweigh the end product. The original mask would have been hand sculpted and cast in resin, is there a reason why you need it done in wood?

 

[LuckyS7evine]

Hi theDragon, thank you very much for your message, yes I know that the mask in the film was cast in resin and then painted with different shades to give this effect. I already have a replica of the mask, second generation casting from the ICONS series. I wanted to try to create this mask in wood because in the film it is wood, I saw people create the mask in wood but the detail of the texture is not good, and I thought it would be interesting to see with current techniques and technologies, how to create this full acruate mask. and I also like challenges. maybe even collaborate with a professional CNC wood and make a limited series of 10 copies. I already have the person who can make the metal part, "the nose" of the mask, but the wood part is more complicated

 

[TheDragon]

Hi theDragon, thank you very much for your message, yes I know that the mask in the film was cast in resin and then painted with different shades to give this effect. I already have a replica of the mask, second generation casting from the ICONS series. I wanted to try to create this mask in wood because in the film it is wood, I saw people create the mask in wood but the detail of the texture is not good, and I thought it would be interesting to see with current techniques and technologies, how to create this full acruate mask. and I also like challenges. maybe even collaborate with a professional CNC wood and make a limited series of 10 copies. I already have the person who can make the metal part, "the nose" of the mask, but the wood part is more complicated

Gotcha, I would get a quote from a manufacturer in your region about getting them to machine the masks for you as a consumer grade 3 axis machine won't get the desired texture you're after either and a 4 or 5 axis machine will set you back a considerable amount.

 

[Mottrex]

Another tip I got from my printer buddy:

Print for strength in the right direction

So, I have mentioned this one, briefly, in other posts but today it became very important. When using an FDM printer, the layers become the crystallization line that fractures under stress. It is why glass is "tougher" than crystal; why wood gun stocks have the grain running with the direction of the barrel (rifles); and why printing long parts should be done horizontally. If you print a part, that is supposed to spring or hold side pressure (to itself), you want the grain (layers) of your print to be 90 degrees to the pressure (perpendicular).

I printed some small shims today. They looked perfect. They slide in through the side of a rifle stock (muzzleloader) and through a loop in the barrel to hold the barrel to the wood stock. I gave it a little test bend and pop, another, snap, crack, layer after layer. I re-aligned the print to print along the length instead of across it. It made all the difference. My new shims, called wedge pins, were now easily bent without snapping. This is for cosplay, so will not be holding a firing barrel.

Here is an example, from a few days back. The trigger would have snapped off if not aligned to the print direction:

View attachment 1932227

Good call, I need to re orientate a flare gun nozzle for similar reasons, especially as it will be seen out in the wild and who knows it could just pop off..

 

[Mottrex]

Thank you very much for your message. I already have a 3D model but it doesn't suit me, I would like to buy a machine for this kind of project it depends on the size of the machine. For the 3D mask I already work with an artist very talented for this kind of work.

The movie mask and whole aesthetic was quite looney tune in nature in my eyes and why the mask looks the way it does?
It always reminded me of The Twighlight zone movie section where the boy trapped everyone in that crazy cartoon house.
Perhaps if you go too far with heightened details in the wood it becomes less accurate than what's shown in the movie?

I've yet to use it yet but I have a nice reel of Pla Wood grain just waiting to be used..

Let us know how you get on it sounds like a fun project.

Mott.

 

[LuckyS7evine]

Cnc router tables have a very large range as they were the grandfather to the 3d printer. They came even before the laser cutter and the plasma cutting cnc. Most that would be in my range, not rich, are the ones that look and act just like a sling bed 3d printer but there are some big enough to do door panels and similar.

The only true technique that you would need to look into prior to choosing one or deciding this is the right path is the masks double sided nature.

This would require a software capable of zeroing out or homing, finding a point to start and having the 3d reference in play AFTER flipping it over. Cnc routers are generally 3 axis plunger style. They can move the head right/left and back/forth and change its height (plunge) but only the spendier ones can tip at an angle while lowering and rising for undercut areas. But none of those would automatically flip it over so you would need a plan to leave keys or corner grip points that allow you to rehome the piece after flipping it AND a software that allows you to adjust your cut image to do the same. A true cnc milling machine in 4 or 5 axis could do it in one go but is not a cnc router by any means, more like a boxed robot.

Example of cnc router: At door makers, they leave the corners untouched. When one side is done, they flip it over but can easily center/home the door because its external corners did not change and are what aligns the door in the jig. It is still the same height after being flipped so restarting on the other side is simple.

With the mask, some key or corner needs to be left attached to the mask after one side is done in order to align it again after flipping it over. Otherwise it is just flopping around on the table while attempting to cut the back.

There are production methods to get around this on large runs but would not be worth doing in a one off. It would be better to just leave strong corners attached and removed them manually after.

Anyone else have any ideas on a negative sculpt that is two sided?

woow too good thank you very much, all this information is so informative. I must say that I know nothing about CNC D or my message, it would be interesting to do a test with a mask twice as small to see what the possibilities are, I also see in your message that you are talking about CNC for wood and you are also talking about robot box what is a robot box? I know that it might cost a certain amount but I think it is worth it and I think that the colors that we can give to the wood afterwards can be very interesting, playing with transparency.