Let's Talk All Things 3d for prop creation, Scan, Design, Sculpt (real and digital), Print and Finish

I have noticed and maybe it's just a quirk that the generator is having some issues atm and won't always upload your obj file to your A1 printer if you are running the latest Bambu update 2.0, but I had a rolled back version on my Windows10 which worked well except for slicing it with 32 filament colour combo (I think that's why I had that filament splurge a while back) but easy fix..
 
A replicator would be awesome but I'm still holding out for a 1.1 scale 3D house printer as I'd love to design and print my own home.


Rum and OJ.. Make it so!

These do exist if you want a house made out of concrete. There are a couple different companies making them.
I picked this one, because it kind of looks like a spider. :p
concreteprinter.JPG

But there are some more traditional XY types as well.
xyprinter.JPG


A couple models:
COBOD BOD2 / 3
Crane WASP
Icon Phoenix
MaxiPrinter
 
These do exist if you want a house made out of concrete. There are a couple different companies making them.
I picked this one, because it kind of looks like a spider. :p
View attachment 1922804
But there are some more traditional XY types as well.
View attachment 1922807

A couple models:
COBOD BOD2 / 3
Crane WASP
Icon Phoenix
MaxiPrinter
Yes I watched a few being built online and a design show on Appletv where they built sustainable homes in Mexico, they looked great.
There is a very cool German concept home that is awesome and very Brutalist.

I just love concrete.
 
Yes I watched a few being built online and a design show on Appletv where they built sustainable homes in Mexico, they looked great.
There is a very cool German concept home that is awesome and very Brutalist.

I just love concrete.
People say Rome wasn't built in a day and I say, oh ya, notice the Colosseum is round and made of concrete?
 
that was some trivia I had to look up, really pretty cool they did a full set there
The movie is awesome if you like the Floyd very psychedelic and seemed to always be on returning from a friday night pub outting.
But I digress.

Today I need to either enlarge my OG klingon bird of prey or my Martian War Machine but need to find a solution to this Bambu update nonsense once I've walked the dogs..
 
A couple print features that I would like to point out for those making small props, jewelry and game pieces.

1) minimum feature size: this will fully delete sections that are smaller than a specified number, usually a percentage of the layer height. In order to see if this is negatively impacting your print, you must go through your after sliced layers (still in the slicer program) and see if you notice any voids or missing features. You will need to know your object well or you will miss this.

2) Hole assist/ hole expansion: This is a feature that tries to keep a purposed hole (like one for a passthrough bolt) clean of debri, infill, wiping, elephant foot expansion and ironing.

3) Ironing: This feature is used only when you want a smooth flat top surface that does not need a lot of post prep. It is not a good feature in most slicers and is known for wiping out top layer detail and creating burned materials from covering the same area twice. Not recommended at all for small objects even when they are flat as it will also reduce height and cause the elephant foot expansion even if you didn't already have it

4) Be very certain to lower the line width to your lowest setting when printing small objects and do the same for layer height. Small details on small objects can be completely overwhelmed by large layer passes or large line widths.

If you have any known working tips for small item printing, please add it here. One of the more obvious bits of knowledge is that resin printers are multiple times more accurate and smooth for printing small objects and are often the only type used for dental molds and jewelry molds (making wonderful water soluble positives for multi stage metal castings).
 
The movie is awesome if you like the Floyd very psychedelic and seemed to always be on returning from a friday night pub outting.
But I digress.

Today I need to either enlarge my OG klingon bird of prey or my Martian War Machine but need to find a solution to this Bambu update nonsense once I've walked the dogs..
Check to see what level of updates you are set to receive. I am not sure if the bambu community offers bleeding edge betas but I know microsoft does and it can crash your hardware. I opt for the tested releases only. Seeing how bambu used to be fully open source and some of the communities still treat it as such, you might be getting betas.
 
I came across a new type of weakness to look out for in post printing. On rod shaped objects, I will usually opt for concentric paths per layer which makes very very strong rods and tubes.

However, I found a weakness. When making round medallions, of less than 1/8th inch height, this concentric circular printing is no longer a strength. Now, it is a weak point because it allows for one small loose bit on the outer edge to cause catastrophic unwinding like tape on a tape roll. Using one of the crosshatch patterns, instead, will add much strength to these extreme low height objects. I have also liked concentric for its ability to look lathed and adds to the reflective look of the surface. But it is not worth either of those if it begins to unwind or snap off the edge.
 
If you have any known working tips for small item printing, please add it here. One of the more obvious bits of knowledge is that resin printers are multiple times more accurate and smooth for printing small objects and are often the only type used for dental molds and jewelry molds (making wonderful water soluble positives for multi stage metal castings).
Way back in the time of Windows Vista the first ever 3D print I acquired was of a 10mm size scan of the Maxilla from a dental exhibition my then boss attended.
My son is learning CAD now as he is also in the profession..

Found it!
1000117329.jpg

I believe it was printed on a resin printer up in Sheffield back in 2011/12
It's covered in sawdust and needs a good dunk in an Autoclave.

Edit: that 3D print was originally a deep blue!
 

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Confirmed, the bambu labs Makerworld membership benefit AI 3d modeler does an incredibly good job at making quality 3d objects from 2d photos. I have not used it enough to figure out if it will accept more than one photo for a project so it is currently guessing at the backside and succeeding.
 
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Confirmed, the bambu labs Makerworld membership benefit AI 3d modeler does an incredibly good job at making quality 3d objects from 2d photos. I have not used it enough yo figure out if it will accept more than one phoyo for a project so it is currently guessing at the backside and succeeding.
I can only assume being AI that it's trawling the Internet and mashing images to create a 3D likeness.
I have a nice design classic from the 60s a Le Corbusier lounger,they are commonly known for being in many a shrinks office or midcentury home. One of the feet had cracked over the years and another missing half a foot.
A light bulb moment!
Could this clever AI replicate a new foot?

And low and behold Warts and All! did a sterling Job !

1000117348.jpg




And then...
1000117349.jpg


I measured and adjusted the size in Bambu Studio then printed it out to see how clever it was and it fits the Le Corbusier like a glove.
I will smooth refine the foot when I replicate all the feet later and rescan the foot.
 
I am a bit in shock so take my opinion as one that is bathed in the gear shifting epiphany that is happening in my head. This actually means that recasting is not even a necessary step to taking someone's original work. All of those pictures, above, have minor errors, easily fixed in blender or similar to reach a fully printable or cnc, or molded, or cast object.

Each one was made from a single image. If the process allowed multiple images, which it will soon, it would be screen accurate.

Each object from a single picture of the original took about 45 seconds to produce a fully 3d model capable of being fine tuned in another program but in the eyes of a cosplayer, it would be ready to print and paint or print if you have a multicolor 3d printer. Each of the models above import directly into the slicer, ready to print. Import photo, export model, import model, print.
 
Orc sword good enough to go straight to printing in about 45 seconds:

1744787348423.png


and now that I am too confused to either be super excited or thoroughly depressed, I am going to bed.
 
Orc sword good enough to go straight to printing in about 45 seconds:

View attachment 1924762

and now that I am too confused to either be super excited or thoroughly depressed, I am going to bed.

Just saw your posts and decided to take it for a spin. It does look to be good with props that are flat but once it goes from 2.5D to 3D it doesn't do well. Here are some I put together.

1744787626222.png

"Salacious Crumb"

1744787738088.png

"Stormtrooper"

1744787796088.png

"Nien Nunb"

Although good for trinkets, I don't expect this method to ever have the precision required for accurate replicas. There is too much guesswork involved; a bit like just getting some clay out and putting these together from memory.

There are a few current promising techniques for 3D generation that incorporate ML (NerV etc.) that look promising in the future for replicas of stuff that doesn't exist anymore, e.g. Jabba. however mesh generation still isn't quite there for those.
 
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