Let's Talk All Things 3d for prop creation, Scan, Design, Sculpt (real and digital), Print and Finish

Copying in from another thread:

greenmachines said:

What is the spot putty? and yes, will be copying your comment into several 3d print convos

mattycsi said:

A standard spot putty, bondo/3m, any of those. Mix a blob in a glass jar with a lid with a few drips of acetone and shake up until it disolves. Doesnt take much acetone, so go careful when experimenting.
Then brush on, I do 2 coats. You won't need drying time between coats. Give it about 20 -30 mins to dry then buff smooth with 320 or 400g. Sands really easy, like, no effort.

I'm building a proton pack for cosplay, was perusing this vid, when the guy drops this technique, I ran, didn't walk, into my workshop!
About 5:20 is the bit you
need.
 
Last edited:
Copying in from another thread:

greenmachines said:

What is the spot putty? and yes, will be copying your comment into several 3d print convos

mattycsi said:

A standard spot putty, bondo/3m, any of those. Mix a blob in a glass jar with a lid with a few drips of acetone and shake up until it disolves. Doesnt take much acetone, so go careful when experimenting.
Then brush on, I do 2 coats. You won't need drying time between coats. Give it about 20 -30 mins to dry then buff smooth with 320 or 400g. Sands really easy, like, no effort.

I'm building a proton pack for cosplay, was perusing this vid, when the guy drops this technique, I ran, didn't walk, into my workshop!
About 5:20 is the bit you
need.
Make sure its not the waterbased putty/filler as it wont mix with Acetone.
 
So, this might seem a tangent again but this idea that acetone will work here, somehow reminded me of finding out that pla is plant based plastic.....AND..... it has a very short lifespan. Has anyone had experience, first hand, with pla props decaying? Being therpf I think this might be a very VERY important topic. What lifespan is really achievable or maybe this pla warning is overblown and we have decades? I speak from newb view, so, anyone have input, a work around, a better substance, or even just a horror story?
 
Make sure its not the waterbased putty/filler as it wont mix with Acetone.
I am just super stoked there might be an additive answer to smoothing instead of only negative (sanding etc.) besides the filler paint version. I still haven't purchased the filler primer so I really should do that before going any further. If it works it works. Cart before the horse is my go-to plan most days and I punish myself for leaping ahead but this acetone mix sounds really straightforward. Especially if I can see the results fast enough to know to add another coat or stop and high grit sand.
 
I am just super stoked there might be an additive answer to smoothing instead of only negative (sanding etc.) besides the filler paint version. I still haven't purchased the filler primer so I really should do that before going any further. If it works it works. Cart before the horse is my go-to plan most days and I punish myself for leaping ahead but this acetone mix sounds really straightforward. Especially if I can see the results fast enough to know to add another coat or stop and high grit sand.
Its Amazingly simply to use you should be fine.
Being otherside of the pond some materials can differ and ours are pretty much all waterbased but still work but not with the Acetone. I just did another wash last night on my Xwing helmet and now it just needs wet n dry sandpaper but I honestly cant see any layer lines then again it was pretty smooth to start with.
The only big difference I can see is the Acetone makes the layers dry quicker I dont think there is any chemical bond but I could be wrong. The filler I used this morning has set like cement.
 
Its Amazingly simply to use you should be fine.
Being otherside of the pond some materials can differ and ours are pretty much all waterbased but still work but not with the Acetone. I just did another wash last night on my Xwing helmet and now it just needs wet n dry sandpaper but I honestly cant see any layer lines then again it was pretty smooth to start with.
The only big difference I can see is the Acetone makes the layers dry quicker I dont think there is any chemical bond but I could be wrong. The filler I used this morning has set like cement.
My goal of smooth and realistic has yet to come into my skillset so more practice is in my future.
 
My goal of smooth and realistic has yet to come into my skillset so more practice is in my future.
I shyed away from and still have to finish so many builds from a Martian War Machine to a Boba Fett Jetpack but the Xwing helmet has so far but nothing but a joy with this filler method.
I think so far ive spent maybe two hours max on it and sure helps being large surfaces to work on.
Its getting warm here by the beach so I might do a bit more later..
 
I shyed away from and still have to finish so many builds from a Martian War Machine to a Boba Fett Jetpack but the Xwing helmet has so far but nothing but a joy with this filler method.
I think so far ive spent maybe two hours max on it and sure helps being large surfaces to work on.
Its getting warm here by the beach so I might do a bit more later..
That last sentence.... either A) the sanding is being done Robinson Crusoe style and the sun has risen high enough to peak into our shaded grotto or B) laying on the beach has become intolerable due to the heat and we must now get in the water but later, after we dry, maybe some sanding.
 
Just a couple more observations on TPU filament. Since it is flexible and elastic it does not unroll as easily or as smoothly as firmer filaments. It is also hydroscopic so humidity control is important or it feels "sticky". I do not have a ball-bearing filament reel support. So the friction of the TPU reel seems to be too much for my extruder motor to always overcome the flexible, elastic, sticky filament. The filament stretches then springs out like a rubber band when the reel finally turns. In this condition, if the filament does not move enough it seems to "burn" turning brown and hard as it is deposited. A ball-bearing reel support is probably my answer, I have just never found the need for one before
^^
That! You're right to say that some materials have a tendency to stick because of the humidity level in your working area. Using a de-humidifier will resolve the problem real fast...but it has to stay on for long lengths of time, especially in certain climes the machine has to work 24/7 to be effective as a "dryer" for your TPU. Then, you'll have to make sure to empty the drawer from the water accumulating in the machine; if not, it'll automatically shuts-off and the humidity level will rise once more.:(
 
That last sentence.... either A) the sanding is being done Robinson Crusoe style and the sun has risen high enough to peak into our shaded grotto or B) laying on the beach has become intolerable due to the heat and we must now get in the water but later, after we dry, maybe some sanding.
Oh definitely "A" Shorts, Flipflops no straw hat though..

I love this view but always hear in my head
a certain iconic theme tune in my head..

1000126249.jpg
 
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