chazzychaz
Sr Member
Thank you for sharing your discovery.
Time for another update. Lots of small incremental steps as I wait to get my hands on an armature as I’m not well-equipped to machine one myself. Lets’s jump in!
What better place to start than the fuselage bodies?
I don’t have a lathe. I considered sending the bodies out to have them precision machined, but decided I’d have a go at cutting the 12 grooves to make the 11 “ribs” that go around the fuselages. Worst case is a botch them up and just have a set made for me later.
I started by measuring .375” from the front end of the 2” OD Plastruct tube and marking that with a parallel scriber. I then placed dymo tape right up against that line to create a straight edge for scribing.
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I then used my old Tamiya scriber and carefully went around the tube. Once I’d made 3-4 passes, I removed the Dymo tape and finished widening the line until it was close to the proper measurement (around .6 mm). I then added that line width and the rib width to the parallel scriber and scribed the next guide line. More dymo tape, more scribing. Repeat.
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Eventually got them all done. Cut the tube to length, then repeated it all again for the other tube. Measurements all came out super close to correct, and while it’s not 100% accurate, I think it’s certainly good enough to pass!
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Next I measured out the center lines and figured out where the holes for the main support tubes had to go. Drilled those out using a step drill bit. Keeping all of that centered properly was a chore, but I consoled myself that once I have a center block of something is slight off I’ll have room to adjust.
Threw the bodies on the tube — I’m pretty happy with how they turned out!
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Next up, the cockpit dome. I had a pair of VHH-200VG domes, so first thing was to cut them down to size. As others have done, one of the easiest ways to get the height to be consistent is to cut it off on a drill press with a cutting wheel.
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Now that the height is close, I snuck up on it using some sandpaper until it looked just right. I wanted the inner lip of the Vader cockpit window to sit inside of the dome, so I also cut/sanded that until it fit right in, nice and flush.
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With that done, I needed to scribe the vertical lines coming off of the vertices of the cockpit window. This was a bit challenging, as the spacing is NOT equidistant between the spokes around the edge of the window. So, I made indicator marks to align the window to keep it straight.
Taking a page out of Boxcar Bret ’s build, I made a jig to sit the dome into so that I could get some straight, vertical lines.
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Once the lines were drawn, I applied dymo tape to the line and started scribing.
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Welp, that didn’t actually work out how I wanted. Because of the curvature of the dome, as soon as you stuck down the dymo tape, it started to curve to one side, resulting in a line that veered one way or the other off-center. This wasn’t good.
At this point I also noticed that the height was also off. I had a small lip around the outside edge of the cockpit window, and per the reference, that should come up right under the cockpit. Always check, double-check, and triple-check your references!!! Good thing I had a spare dome!!
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Since I’d already messed this one up, I also had a go at doing the horizontal scribing. This was done by using a parallel scriber to mark the locations where the panel lines cross the verticals, then placing dymo tape from one intersection to the other. For these lines you WANT there to be a curve, and the dump tape provides that beautifully. So, a little practice before starting again.
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OK, so second go at the cockpit, but proper height this time. Plus I scribed the vertical lines using the jig to keep them straight.
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Add the horizontal panels lines as described above, and finally using a pin vise and micro drill bit, add on the rivets.
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With the cockpit window attached.
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Test fit to the fuselage.
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She’s starting to look like a ship!
Next up — bomb chute, wing details, and creating molds.
I'm rooting for everyone.Been a minute since I posted an update. I promised a bomb chute, wing details and molding goodness. So here we go!
The bomb chute is mostly made up of Mörser Karl parts, with some Hanomag, Leopold, and Sd.Ah.52 thrown in for fun! I cut all my needed parts out and got them ready for modification and assembly.
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I chose to start with the lower section. I cut up the Karl parts to make up the left/right halves of that section, noting that (from the front) the left side section is a little wider than the right. Shown here, the dark gray section is the wider part.
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To give some rigity to the parts when glued end-to-end, I went ahead and glued some thin strip material behind it for support. Did two supports in the back to work around the gap in the cut halves, as that’s a visible gap on the filming model. The front doesn’t have this gap, so I centered it more.
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You can see that gap on the back here.
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After gluing the two halves around the Leopold parts, I sanded the bottom sections that extended past it flush, and attached the Hanomag parts front and back. I also cut out the opening on the bottom. There’s also another Mörser Karl part that gets glued in on the bottom, but I forgot to snag a pic of that (I’ll update once I get one).
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Karl part on the bottom:
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On top there are two additional boxes from the Karl that get mounted on either side, along with what I think are axles from the Sd.Ah.52.
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Lastly, cut off three parts off two F47s from the Karl that get glued back-to-back to make up the center support/chute section that connect back to the fuselage. I carefully aligned the markings on the sides of the chute to the references, but stopped short of gluing it in. I need to sand the top section to fit to the fuselage, and so am waiting until that’s all set to finish the attachment.
And with that, on to the outer wing details. I checked multiple references and came up with discrepancies between Moskas parts reference and actual pics of the filming model, so of course went with the latter. Most of this was attaching .040” half-rounds to the outer wings, and .010” thick stock cut into various shapes where applicable. Finally, gun barrels from the Rodney were added along the tops of the wings, which is the only place those appear to be.
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You get the idea! LOL
Now, onto molding fun! On one of my previous posts I made up a wing connector and said I didn’t ever want to do that again. So making a cast of the part seemed like the next logical solution.
I won’t bore everyone with the details of how to make a mold (YouTube is great for that), but suffice to say after 1-2 tries, I was able to make a very good copy of the wing connector.
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Is it perfect? No. One or two strut holes on the leopold parts aren’t as crisp as the original, but it’s good enough for me!
Looks pretty good on the wing.
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I’m going with it. If others find they want a copy I can run some off, but for me, I’ll do one wing with the cast part and one with the original scratch build.
Next up is casting the remaining parts that I need. I’ve done a few of them, including the Leopold A7s for the front of the wing tube sections. Shown here with the original.
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A few of my molding attempts have not gone as well. Gonna try remolding some parts this weekend from single- to two-part molds in the hopes it provides better results. We’ll see how it goes.
Til next time, keep on scratchin!
I think you might be right about the rounded parts at the front of the wing there, given that end profile.
These are the parts of TIE Fighter(MPC).I think you might be right about the rounded parts at the front of the wing there, given that end profile.
I’m not quite sure what you mean by “square” and use 37/38. Which parts are you referring for that? From the Junyo but not #40? Can you clarify a bit here?
There is an odd curve there on the wing behind that part, but to me that looks like a hole from drilling through from the back side for the mounting poles. I don’t think that relates to the parts used.
Gotcha! Yes, pointing out the arrangement of the covers and how they aren’t the same part even though the wings are.These are the parts of TIE Fighter(MPC).
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I don't know the part number because I was away from sprue.
No.37 and No.38 are both used.
You are right. Only parts of the hole is visible.
Son-of-a….! I poured over those parts and didn’t see it, but now looking again it’s right there, C5! Can’t believe I missed that!You could always ask the guy who did the master of the piece you have pictured.
The parts in question come from the Tamiya 1/35 Hanomag.
You ID’d the part for me, which is all I meant by it. I know that identification of the kit parts on so many of these studio scale builds is a group effort by many folks. I just appreciate you pointing it out to me when I completely missed it!Looking good!
Just to be clear, I didn't discover the Hanomag parts, I just let people know what others had discovered.
Thanks! That’s a large part of the intention with this, so that anyone else who comes along and wants to build has some clear guidance and pictures of what’s needed.Looking great. Love the close-up shots of the build un-painted. Easy to see what is what.