Another (another) SS TIE Bomber

Been a minute since I posted an update. I promised a bomb chute, wing details and molding goodness. So here we go!

The bomb chute is mostly made up of Mörser Karl parts, with some Hanomag, Leopold, and Sd.Ah.52 thrown in for fun! I cut all my needed parts out and got them ready for modification and assembly.
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I chose to start with the lower section. I cut up the Karl parts to make up the left/right halves of that section, noting that (from the front) the left side section is a little wider than the right. Shown here, the dark gray section is the wider part.
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To give some rigity to the parts when glued end-to-end, I went ahead and glued some thin strip material behind it for support. Did two supports in the back to work around the gap in the cut halves, as that’s a visible gap on the filming model. The front doesn’t have this gap, so I centered it more.
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You can see that gap on the back here.
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After gluing the two halves around the Leopold parts, I sanded the bottom sections that extended past it flush, and attached the Hanomag parts front and back. I also cut out the opening on the bottom. There’s also another Mörser Karl part that gets glued in on the bottom, but I forgot to snag a pic of that (update: added the pic of the bottom!).
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Karl part on the bottom:
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And on the bottom for mine as well:
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On top there are two additional boxes from the Karl that get mounted on either side, along with what I think are axles from the Sd.Ah.52.
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Lastly, cut off three parts off two F47s from the Karl that get glued back-to-back to make up the center support/chute section that connect back to the fuselage. I carefully aligned the markings on the sides of the chute to the references and sanded the top section to fit to the fuselage. Finally, glued that section in and with that the bomb drop/chute section is complete!
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And with that, on to the outer wing details. I checked multiple references and came up with discrepancies between Moskas parts reference and actual pics of the filming model, so of course went with the latter. Most of this was attaching .040” half-rounds to the outer wings, and .010” thick stock cut into various shapes where applicable. Finally, gun barrels from the Rodney were added along the tops of the wings, which is the only place those appear to be.
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You get the idea! LOL

Now, onto molding fun! On one of my previous posts I made up a wing connector and said I didn’t ever want to do that again. So making a cast of the part seemed like the next logical solution.

I won’t bore everyone with the details of how to make a mold (YouTube is great for that), but suffice to say after 1-2 tries, I was able to make a very good copy of the wing connector.
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Is it perfect? No. One or two strut holes on the leopold parts aren’t as crisp as the original, but it’s good enough for me!

Looks pretty good on the wing.
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I’m going with it. If others find they want a copy I can run some off, but for me, I’ll do one wing with the cast part and one with the original scratch build.

Next up is casting the remaining parts that I need. I’ve done a few of them, including the Leopold A7s for the front of the wing tube sections. Shown here with the original.
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A few of my molding attempts have not gone as well. Gonna try remolding some parts this weekend from single- to two-part molds in the hopes it provides better results. We’ll see how it goes.

Til next time, keep on scratchin!
 
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Time for another update. Lots of small incremental steps as I wait to get my hands on an armature as I’m not well-equipped to machine one myself. Lets’s jump in!

What better place to start than the fuselage bodies?

I don’t have a lathe. I considered sending the bodies out to have them precision machined, but decided I’d have a go at cutting the 12 grooves to make the 11 “ribs” that go around the fuselages. Worst case is a botch them up and just have a set made for me later.

I started by measuring .375” from the front end of the 2” OD Plastruct tube and marking that with a parallel scriber. I then placed dymo tape right up against that line to create a straight edge for scribing.
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I then used my old Tamiya scriber and carefully went around the tube. Once I’d made 3-4 passes, I removed the Dymo tape and finished widening the line until it was close to the proper measurement (around .6 mm). I then added that line width and the rib width to the parallel scriber and scribed the next guide line. More dymo tape, more scribing. Repeat.
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Eventually got them all done. Cut the tube to length, then repeated it all again for the other tube. Measurements all came out super close to correct, and while it’s not 100% accurate, I think it’s certainly good enough to pass!
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Next I measured out the center lines and figured out where the holes for the main support tubes had to go. Drilled those out using a step drill bit. Keeping all of that centered properly was a chore, but I consoled myself that once I have a center block of something is slight off I’ll have room to adjust.

Threw the bodies on the tube — I’m pretty happy with how they turned out!
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Next up, the cockpit dome. I had a pair of VHH-200VG domes, so first thing was to cut them down to size. As others have done, one of the easiest ways to get the height to be consistent is to cut it off on a drill press with a cutting wheel.
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Now that the height is close, I snuck up on it using some sandpaper until it looked just right. I wanted the inner lip of the Vader cockpit window to sit inside of the dome, so I also cut/sanded that until it fit right in, nice and flush.
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With that done, I needed to scribe the vertical lines coming off of the vertices of the cockpit window. This was a bit challenging, as the spacing is NOT equidistant between the spokes around the edge of the window. So, I made indicator marks to align the window to keep it straight.

Taking a page out of Boxcar Bret ’s build, I made a jig to sit the dome into so that I could get some straight, vertical lines.
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Once the lines were drawn, I applied dymo tape to the line and started scribing.
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Welp, that didn’t actually work out how I wanted. Because of the curvature of the dome, as soon as you stuck down the dymo tape, it started to curve to one side, resulting in a line that veered one way or the other off-center. This wasn’t good.

At this point I also noticed that the height was also off. I had a small lip around the outside edge of the cockpit window, and per the reference, that should come up right under the cockpit. Always check, double-check, and triple-check your references!!! Good thing I had a spare dome!!
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Since I’d already messed this one up, I also had a go at doing the horizontal scribing. This was done by using a parallel scriber to mark the locations where the panel lines cross the verticals, then placing dymo tape from one intersection to the other. For these lines you WANT there to be a curve, and the dump tape provides that beautifully. So, a little practice before starting again.
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OK, so second go at the cockpit, but proper height this time. Plus I scribed the vertical lines using the jig to keep them straight.
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Add the horizontal panels lines as described above, and finally using a pin vise and micro drill bit, add on the rivets.
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With the cockpit window attached.
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Test fit to the fuselage.
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She’s starting to look like a ship!

Next up — bomb chute, wing details, and creating molds.

Great job on the scribing! You got me! I never noticed that lip for the window frame and missed it.
 
Been a minute since I posted an update. I promised a bomb chute, wing details and molding goodness. So here we go!

The bomb chute is mostly made up of Mörser Karl parts, with some Hanomag, Leopold, and Sd.Ah.52 thrown in for fun! I cut all my needed parts out and got them ready for modification and assembly.
View attachment 1838741

I chose to start with the lower section. I cut up the Karl parts to make up the left/right halves of that section, noting that (from the front) the left side section is a little wider than the right. Shown here, the dark gray section is the wider part.
View attachment 1838742

To give some rigity to the parts when glued end-to-end, I went ahead and glued some thin strip material behind it for support. Did two supports in the back to work around the gap in the cut halves, as that’s a visible gap on the filming model. The front doesn’t have this gap, so I centered it more.
View attachment 1838743

You can see that gap on the back here.
View attachment 1838775

After gluing the two halves around the Leopold parts, I sanded the bottom sections that extended past it flush, and attached the Hanomag parts front and back. I also cut out the opening on the bottom. There’s also another Mörser Karl part that gets glued in on the bottom, but I forgot to snag a pic of that (I’ll update once I get one).
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Karl part on the bottom:
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On top there are two additional boxes from the Karl that get mounted on either side, along with what I think are axles from the Sd.Ah.52.
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Lastly, cut off three parts off two F47s from the Karl that get glued back-to-back to make up the center support/chute section that connect back to the fuselage. I carefully aligned the markings on the sides of the chute to the references, but stopped short of gluing it in. I need to sand the top section to fit to the fuselage, and so am waiting until that’s all set to finish the attachment.

And with that, on to the outer wing details. I checked multiple references and came up with discrepancies between Moskas parts reference and actual pics of the filming model, so of course went with the latter. Most of this was attaching .040” half-rounds to the outer wings, and .010” thick stock cut into various shapes where applicable. Finally, gun barrels from the Rodney were added along the tops of the wings, which is the only place those appear to be.
View attachment 1838754
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View attachment 1838759View attachment 1838760

You get the idea! LOL

Now, onto molding fun! On one of my previous posts I made up a wing connector and said I didn’t ever want to do that again. So making a cast of the part seemed like the next logical solution.

I won’t bore everyone with the details of how to make a mold (YouTube is great for that), but suffice to say after 1-2 tries, I was able to make a very good copy of the wing connector.
View attachment 1838763
View attachment 1838764

Is it perfect? No. One or two strut holes on the leopold parts aren’t as crisp as the original, but it’s good enough for me!

Looks pretty good on the wing.
View attachment 1838766

I’m going with it. If others find they want a copy I can run some off, but for me, I’ll do one wing with the cast part and one with the original scratch build.

Next up is casting the remaining parts that I need. I’ve done a few of them, including the Leopold A7s for the front of the wing tube sections. Shown here with the original.
View attachment 1838772

A few of my molding attempts have not gone as well. Gonna try remolding some parts this weekend from single- to two-part molds in the hopes it provides better results. We’ll see how it goes.

Til next time, keep on scratchin!
I'm rooting for everyone.
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What do you guys think?
 
I'm rooting for everyone.
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What do you guys think?
I think you might be right about the rounded parts at the front of the wing there, given that end profile.

I’m not quite sure what you mean by “square” and use 37/38. Which parts are you referring for that? From the Junyo but not #40? Can you clarify a bit here?

There is an odd curve there on the wing behind that part, but to me that looks like a hole from drilling through from the back side for the mounting poles. I don’t think that relates to the parts used.
 
I posted this over on Facebook, as well, but trying to confirm if the small round caps that go onto the Mörser Karl parts on the wing connectors is part B3 from the Mörser Karl. The shape isn’t exactly right I think, but it’s the closest part I’ve been able to find so far.

Wing connector casting with parts circled in red (stole this image from Bret’s build):
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Wing connection, again parts in question circled in red (not the Hanomag parts):
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B3 from the Mörser Karl:
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Trimmed up and test fit into place:
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My major reservation here is the shape of the protrusion, which looks rounded over on both the castings I’ve seen (see above) and the reference photos. I can make this work by rounding over the top, but maybe there’s a different part used here? Feels odd to me that ILM would heavily modify 8 of these just to cap that off — more likely there’s another part that all ready to go.

Anyone have any other ideas?
 
I think you might be right about the rounded parts at the front of the wing there, given that end profile.

I’m not quite sure what you mean by “square” and use 37/38. Which parts are you referring for that? From the Junyo but not #40? Can you clarify a bit here?

There is an odd curve there on the wing behind that part, but to me that looks like a hole from drilling through from the back side for the mounting poles. I don’t think that relates to the parts used.
These are the parts of TIE Fighter(MPC).
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I don't know the part number because I was away from sprue.
No.37 and No.38 are both used.

You are right. Only parts of the hole is visible.
 
Small update — made a lot of progress on the interior of the wings the last two weeks. Still not done, but close.

Shot of both wing interiors:
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Each wing on its own:
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It’s really coming together with the wings kitted out. So much detail here, can’t wait to paint them!

Closer view in on the kit parts. Those Hanomag caps that swgeek ID’d for me the other week really help finish it off. Everything that’s white and not the wing connector is a casting I made.
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View of the other wing from another angle (this wing connector is a casting I made):
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I also made progress on the wing exterior cap pieces from the Vader TIE:
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And finally, placed in position on the wings. They still need to have the holes drilled out for the pin connectors, but I’ll probably do that toward the end of the build.
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Last thing I managed to make decent progress on is casting the Saturn V components for the rear of the fuselages. Sorry I don’t have pics of the process of cutting them off the original kit parts and sanding down to size, I got in a zone and just got it done. Honestly, hard to tell which is the casting and which is original:
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Dry-fitting on the back:
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All-in-all it’s really coming along! Til next update!
 
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Looking good!
Just to be clear, I didn't discover the Hanomag parts, I just let people know what others had discovered.
You ID’d the part for me, which is all I meant by it. I know that identification of the kit parts on so many of these studio scale builds is a group effort by many folks. I just appreciate you pointing it out to me when I completely missed it!
 
It’s been a minute since my last update but wanted to post some progress I’ve made on some of the center-block surrounds over the last week or so.

Firstly, easiest one to make without having an armature to use for dimensions is the top plate. It’s comprised of a few cut-off sections from the Leopold, with old tooling Shinano parts (#29) on top. This assembly sits atop the center block pretty much as is, and is an easy tackle.

Here are the two main parts used:
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And now stacked atop each other:
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Last bits needed are the Shinano parts, and you’ve got a complete top greeblie:
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For the front panel, you need a lot of parts from different kits, including the Prince of Wales, the Rodney, SD.AH.52, Leopold, and Flak 36/37.

Started with two sheets of .030” styrene glued back to back to form the base plate I’ll mount everything to.
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Next, I used Moska’s parts guide, which is dimensionally pretty close to actual size, to figure out the curves needed to fit between the fuselages. I also marked center lines and rough estimates of where the parts needed to go.

It isn’t clear from any of the references exactly where the Prince of Wales part is supposed to go on the front panel — is it attached to the panel itself, or does it attach to the armature block? I opted to attach to the panel, so I cut out a notch in the bottom of the base plate for the front and glued in the part:
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I next attached to the Rodney part the components that connect directly to it and then mounted that to the base plate:
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Next, attached the sloping side pieces flush to the base:
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The last parts I attached are the two parts on top (circled here):
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Looking at the references, it’s pretty clear to me that they are not flush the front surface of the Rodney part but instead protrude past it.

Here you can see a shadow underneath those parts as they stick out:
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So, I did the same, making the back sides flush to the Rodney part and sticking out past it:
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I think it looks pretty good overall. Will have to fine-tune it more once I get my new fuselage tubes mounted to the armature I just received from mjhenks, but for now, I’m thrilled with it.

Well, break times over. I’ll try and post another small update soon. After that, I imagine that things will lstart moving much more quickly on this build. Til next time!
 
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