I think, Shahrooz missed our replied, Zlurpo and I wrote, we are offering without laminated and waxed cotton canvas, that we are using since beginning, because we don't have more better options.Just my two cents. I think what Shahrooz is saying (and is reflective of many opinions on this thread) is that, despite getting the coat nearly ‘bang on’ in terms of design/patterns/specs it still falls short of being considered ‘screen accurate’ until the coat’s cotton fabric has that acrylic finish and color (as seen with Soul Revolver’s material).
It’s a trade-off. Personally, as it stands at the moment, I would much rather have a coat that has the right design/specs even if it’s with un-laminated cotton (do it myself or wax it perhaps) over purchasing an over-priced Soul Revolver which is rife with inaccuracies but, granted, has beautiful material.
Hopefully, Zlurpo / Jameel can eventually source laminated cotton like Soul Revolver's and make this all a moot point going forward. That said, I’m really impressed by the lengths Jameel Ur is going to get this coat as accurate as possible. Being able to have an open discussion with a coat designer is wonderful and clearly something that Magnoli, WSL or SR have zero interest in doing.
Right, I outlined this very same issue in this post. The screen dark-cyan depends very much on the film's color grating, IMO. So, yes the coat looks different in different settings. But one thing that seems to be 'a given' is the coat's lamination or sheen.Thank you Mechaniso,
I asked earlier in this thread, how we can combine all different fabrics and details in single coat.
Here you can see two different color coat, definitely we have to chose one color.
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Right, as an alternate option that would be nice. But sourcing your current standard color with a laminated finish would be far more interesting IMO.This is our laminated cotton fabric.
I think if we make a new coat with darker fur in our laminated fabric it would be great option.
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Waxing your coat with a generous dose of Barbour (or similar) wax, aside from protecting it against further wear and tear, will immediately give your coat added character, weight and a terrific sheen. Go for it!I think I agree with Mechanismo: I would rather buy a coat that's got all the design details right, even if the material is just plain cotton, and then wax it myself to approximate the sheen.
And for what it's worth, I bought one of Zlurpo's first round of coats in 2018 (back when the fur was being critiqued as slightly too orange) and I've been very pleased with it as an everyday-wear coat. Not too long ago, someone in this thread said it felt like a "cosplay coat", but I disagree! It may not have the screen-accurate finish, but I've gotten a TON of compliments wearing it around town, so clearly to a layperson it reads as a "real" garment. I particularly loved the custom-dyed cotton that they came up with. IMO it struck the perfect balance of greyish or greenish depending on the lighting.
Sadly my fabric has faded quite a bit with wear--maybe waxing when the fabric is new would have slowed/prevented that?
Thanks for pointing that out, Egon. Indeed, this is another aspect to the collar which shouldn't be overlooked.I don't want to de-rail where the convo is at, but I have been lightly following this thread. I had to temper my excitement over my jacket as I am not sure when that is going to happen given my current schedule.
BUT! In the photos above posted by Jameel, I think I noticed one reason the collar behaves the way it does both standing and down. This has been discussed a lot, and I would still wager there may have been collar specific jackets - but that's a pure guess.
I am not sure if this has been discussed before, but it looks like there is an internal collar stand (or some sort of stabilizer) in the lower portion of the collar. Think about how on a dress shirt, there is the collar band, then the collar itself.
This would 1) help the collar stand stiffer and hold its shape when standing and wrapped, and 2) make the rear of the collar have the proper profile when folded down and resting. That way the bend isn't at the joint where the collar meets the body of the jacket.
Now this may all be well worn territory, or already included in some jackets. I am not sure, I have never handled an available jacket from any previously mentioned maker, but just throwing it out there. View attachment 1549491View attachment 1549492
IMO,I don't want to de-rail where the convo is at, but I have been lightly following this thread. I had to temper my excitement over my jacket as I am not sure when that is going to happen given my current schedule.
BUT! In the photos above posted by Jameel, I think I noticed one reason the collar behaves the way it does both standing and down. This has been discussed a lot, and I would still wager there may have been collar specific jackets - but that's a pure guess.
I am not sure if this has been discussed before, but it looks like there is an internal collar stand (or some sort of stabilizer) in the lower portion of the collar. Think about how on a dress shirt, there is the collar band, then the collar itself.
This would 1) help the collar stand stiffer and hold its shape when standing and wrapped, and 2) make the rear of the collar have the proper profile when folded down and resting. That way the bend isn't at the joint where the collar meets the body of the jacket.
Now this may all be well worn territory, or already included in some jackets. I am not sure, I have never handled an available jacket from any previously mentioned maker, but just throwing it out there. View attachment 1549491View attachment 1549492
That's a good point. Buckram would provide that stiffness. But, in terms of my (waxed) custom collar, having neither buckram or a collar stand , floppiness is indeed an issue.IMO,
There is no need for band collar inside collar.
What you seeing it's due to height of collar, and because collar edge attached in body and absolutely neck/body part is supporting to collar edge.
The collar has started falling down as it goes up to 3-4 cm high.
it's also proving there is no inside buckram or any stiffness, that's why collar is going to down.
I haven't seen correctly your collar floppiness.That's a good point. Buckram would provide that stiffness. But, in terms of my (waxed) custom collar, having neither buckram or a collar stand , floppiness is indeed an issue.
If you know of a source of good fabric, I'm all for it. It needs to be able to get to Pakistan, where my sewing team is. And there needs to be enough demand to justify whatever it's cost is. But knowing that SR uses fabric 'from Italy' isn't enough to go on :/I don't want to wax a coat again. I just don't. It's smelly, it's messy, it's laborious, it's time-consuming. Plus there's the reapplying it, which is it's own endeavor. I'm all for throwing money at Jameel Ur and Zlurpo for a new, accurate coat, but it absolutely needs to have that green, pre-laminated fabric and be made out of that from the start IMHO. I don't agree with every sentiment in this thread--I'm not sure I'd pay $2k+ for it--but given that the SR is about 650 or so, and Zlurpo's coat is, what, 370? I can confidently say I'd be willing to pay a few hundred more for an accurate fabric that didn't need any modifications out of the box.
I don't know. I haven't spent too much time looking yet. And that's the real question, isn't it? Are there 25 people interested in an updated, accurate, best-fabric coat? Or is it really like 5 people?I guess the question is Zlurpo , how much money would you need to try sourcing a few different options? I know fabric quantities usually have a minimum order amount. Would a pre-order deposit from members here be possible to somehow invest in a bunch of different fabric options to ship to your sewing team?
Honestly yes, what's seen in the picture is pretty much out of the question. For one thing, she's weathering that coat, making it look dusty. Selected coloring in the seams and such. A handheld airbrush like that would be terrible for applying a even coating over an entire garment. You'd need more like a HPLV sprayer. But even that, unless you can point to an exact product that can be bought in Pakistan or shipped to the sewing team, and you ALREADY KNOW it's the right stuff, is not going to work. Jameel can't take weeks of time experimenting with 6 different coatings on 5 different fabrics to invent the right match. Not unless you have 100 buyers willing to pre-order the coat up front for a premium price. Sorry.Zlurpo, is painting the acrylic on your current fabric (as shown below perhaps) as a last step out of the question?
It would certainly sidestep the forecasting/stock issues you mention.
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