Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
- Start date
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Right. But no matter the actual size of the collar (in proportion to the coat size, adjusted to the wearer's physical features etc), it should nevertheless conform to certain specific SA design aspects that are still missing, namely a taper. As far as we can see, to date, every coat provider (WSL/Zlurpo/Magnoli/SR) appear to have a consistent collar width.
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jholko
Member
Just curious as to how we know the actual coat has a taper? Are we assuming this from the photos we have of the screen coat? Can you also please just clarify for me what you mean by taper? (sorry if this has been discussed already somewhere in detail).
I watched 2049 again last night specifically just to watch the coat... in my opinion.. the Magnoli is close, but I think there is an argument for a little more 'bulk' to the neck area. In some scenes of the film it really looks massive in this area. Others not so much. Comparing against the Magnoli I have here.. its close, but I would say the screen coat is a little bulkier in this area.
There is also the possibility, like all screen costumes of there being multiple versions. All made with varying specifications. There likely was a specific "collar up" version.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
A taper refers to a shape that becomes progressively narrower towards one end (or both ends). In the case of a collar, this means the area behind the nape/back of the head is wider than it is at either end. Here's a generic example:
I'll take the liberty, if I may, of quoting Egon in his earlier post because I think he makes a lot of good points:
“That guesswork is largely the same for the rest of the dimensions of the collar as well. I agree it definitely is not a consistent width ( like how a collar stand on a dress shirt tapers towards the closure) but there is more to the gestalt of the collar than it's initial shape, of which I don't think anyone has totally nailed, but it's an area that has to function as designed as much as it need to be shaped "correctly."
These pictures show that slight taper, how the area behind the neck is wider than at the sides. Although it’s subtle, IMO it’s an important design element especially in terms on how the collar ‘sits’ around the wearer’s neck and left shoulder area:
Which, incidentally, raises another area which we haven't really covered, I think. Construction-wise, the movie collar appears to be robust in terms of rigidness and weight, which is pretty clear in these prop display photos:
So when it comes to the collar, I think this, combined with the tapered design and its large size is important in terms of achieving that bulgy/bulky effect that appears in many instances in the film (and, as many of you have rightly pointed out, the need for all of this to be scaled to be proportionate with the coat size and wearer's physical attributes). Also, getting the shearling right is paramount.
Interestingly, K wears his collar propped up Deckard-style in one scene which could provide some further clues.
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Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
That’s an interesting possibility (SR purports it’s a separate collar altogether) and this could be the case. If so, IMO, the only thing that doesn’t quite add up about this is that the “folded collar” version of the coat would presumably be made to look a bit more streamlined, but there are scenes where the folded collar droops past the lapel and looks very messy. Now, this might be a stylistic choice, but it would imply perhaps that they indeed designed the collar for both functions, on-screen.
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TurnipyOdour
Well-Known Member
A small detail (that doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things) but when the collar's worn up it doesn't have the little stitches that hold it to the lapel. It hangs down lower over the top of the lapel, giving a bit more room in the chin area since it's not pulled in as tight.
jholko
Member
I dunno.. Im not so sure there is a taper as you describe it. It could just be the way the coat is sitting and the way the collar is folded. I don't think we can definitively say, either way, to be honest. My feeling is, that 'if' there is a taper there.. it's tiny and inconsequential in the scheme of things. The shearling seems to make the biggest difference. I am going to go on the hunt here in Australia for more SA shearling when I get a chance.
TurnipyOdour
Well-Known Member
Is this image of any help with the collar debate?
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
That's a great movie still. Thanks for sharing. As robo3687 pointed out in his detailed Officer K coat build thread, there appears to be an inner, support collar as he outlined here. It's very interesting and no doubt an important factor.
To my eyes, the photo shows how the front portion of the 'collar up' position hangs forward allowing that extra room around the face and funnel shape. The photo is also a good visual reference for the structuring in the shoulder panels, incidentally.
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joberg
Legendary Member
The original Deckard's coat had a similar collar. Wide and tall. There's no pics of Harrison wearing it with the collar up. Could be the same type of look. The one from 2049 is, not only the height but also the added weight of the shearling. You can see, since the collar is very high + closing buckle + shearling, that because of that weight, it's drooping toward the front and straight at the back...maybe giving the "impression" that it's in a funnel type of design.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
This is a promo pic of Harrison Ford with this his collar up and a scene when Deckard arrives at The Bradbury:The original Deckard's coat had a similar collar. Wide and tall. There's no pics of Harrison wearing it with the collar up. Could be the same type of look. The one from 2049 is, not only the height but also the added weight of the shearling. You can see, since the collar is very high + closing buckle + shearling, that because of that weight, it's drooping toward the front and straight at the back...maybe giving the "impression" that it's in a funnel type of design.
The main difference between this and K's collar is that, when worn "collar down," Deckard's collar it's not folded/creased on itself but rather, allowed to extend fully when resting around the shoulders an neck. In sum, both collars are significantly different in design and construction but evocative of each other in the sense that they are a distinctive aspect to both coats. According to Renée April. this was done quite deliberately.
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TurnipyOdour
Well-Known Member
Rivethead1986
New Member
hey all! first post on here.
I just received my SR coat and was actually kinda disappointed with both the fit and screen inaccuracies... the arms are too long, there is no shoulder padding, and the sheepskin feels like a bathroom mat. ...and well now that I've seen all the other inaccuracies pointed out here(collar placement, shoulder design) on this thread I'm feeling the sting of regret even more lol... i'm kinda angered that they advertise it as a screen accurate replica when its not. wish i had found this thread BEFORE purchasing.
Any chance we'll ever see someone produce an actually screen accurate version of the coat?
I just received my SR coat and was actually kinda disappointed with both the fit and screen inaccuracies... the arms are too long, there is no shoulder padding, and the sheepskin feels like a bathroom mat. ...and well now that I've seen all the other inaccuracies pointed out here(collar placement, shoulder design) on this thread I'm feeling the sting of regret even more lol... i'm kinda angered that they advertise it as a screen accurate replica when its not. wish i had found this thread BEFORE purchasing.
Any chance we'll ever see someone produce an actually screen accurate version of the coat?
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Hey man, welcome aboard!
I understand your disappointment, especially when vendors purport to sell a 'screen accurate replica' when they are not in many respects.
The good news is that SR is a quality coat and with a few alterations with a local tailor, you can get your coat looking far more screen accurate.
Just off the bat, moving/shifting the SR collar to be positioned like the movie collar. This is outlined here.
Shearling-wise, we've managed to track down two good alternatives that are sourced from inexpensive women's "teddy" sherpa coats. Amazon and Uniqulo. It would be a matter of swapping SR's fur for this material. Shahrooz is currently getting these two alterations done on his SR coat, by the way.
In any event, a lot of this is discussed in more detail a bit further back.
If you have any questions, drop a line!
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Rivethead1986
New Member
the collar really is the most important issue, but, if i were to have the collar moved that would cause yet another inaccuracy though on the other side(the lapel being shorter than the collar). perhaps it wouldn't be too noticeable since it would folded under... i just wish there was a way to do it without causing that and have it still fit around my face. there doesn't seem to be much that can be done about the cylinder/tube shape either. for near 600 bucks i just feel like i shouldn't have to do any of this. but i'm probably going to because i'm obsessed hahahahahaha
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joberg
Legendary Member
See what age does to a brain
You're right and as we can see in the pic, the collar seems to be funnel-like and smaller in height than the 2049 coat.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
I covered this specific issue in this post if you want to check it out.
TLDR: the SA placement has the short side of the collar flush with the neck. This is IMO one of the most distinctive features to the the overall look of the coat. SR's collar overextends downward, making the collar floppy to boot (this is also the case with WSL). Indeed, that makes for some excess 'spillage' on the long side (although this appears to be the case with at least one version of the prop display coat) and as you point out, it's tucked underneath the lapel and hardly noticeable. So, on balance, there's a far bigger payoff to shifting the collar slightly.
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