Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

Egon said:
I definitely appreciate the link. Like I had said, I totally forgot about that thread, despite looking at it probably only a few weeks back.

I think that thread stands are a true testament to craftsmanship. Just drafting that pattern (especially at that time - several years ago when less was shown of the jackets used during production) is a gigantic under taking. Let alone constructing two of them.

One thing I have learned over the years of sewing costumes (which I do mostly professionally now) is that a lot of folks under estimate the time and cash it takes to do something like Robo did.

A case in point would be Ghostbusters flight suits. I'm currently working on one, and it is an ass kicker. I don't own a flight suit, so accurately getting the pockets scaled etc is going to be impossible. Plus, the materials and time it takes to create one is WELL above what a company like Magnoli or Gibson and Barnes can charge for a suit. Material costs on my end would be damn near if not over what they charge.

Same can be said for the K jacket.

At the price point of WSL or Soul Revolver, they are truly a steal. No one in a developed country (I hate using that terminology but I don't know how else to articulate it) could charge what they do and not be deeply in the hole between time and money. That is to say that most folks who sew one off costume pieces (EI not having a large scale manufacturing approach like a fashion company) and doing them on demand, and/or made to measure, can't produce them for prices people are able or willing to pay.

*IF* I were to offer our version of Deckard's jacket (which as of now is not in the cards) I would have to charge serious money (think a mortgage payment) to make it reasonable to do. Between approx 15 yards of shell fabric, liner fabric, custom horn buttons, dying process, and around 40-60 hours total, if I were to charge even what Magnoli charges for their version, I would be in the hole.

I can not tell you how many times I have received email inquired from folks wanting a totally custom designed jacket or full costume, provide one or two sketches, and expect Cossky prices/turn around time.

It is not as simple as "here is a drawing/measurements, so I did all the work for you."

This isn't to sound bitter or accusatory of anyone being glib or anything, but if you've ever taken the time to wax a jacket, you know it can be incredibly labor intensive, and a can of wax from Barbour isn't peanuts either.

When folks say "x and y makers don't make it right" that can very well be true. But the process isn't cut and dry - especially fitting proportions into a design that are different than the particular actor on screen. This is also considering some items can be designed and made for certain shots, or functions.

Anyways, I don't mean to derail, as I am planning my version of the K jacket and looking for any resources available - Robos thread being a huge resource.
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Glad to help. Thanks for the insight and info on the production side of the biz.

I agree the robo thread was epic, fun to watch and really informative.
 
Egon said:
View attachment 1511558This may be well worn territory at this point - but are we certain on the process used on the screen used jackets regarding wax, sealant, etc?

I know there is some potential language barrier stuff with the "laminated" cotton (which *is* a product, but not sure that was used?) and painting the fabric/garment.

Just wondering as I start the planning on the K jacket and testing waxing (have a Barbour I love that should be rewatched) and other methods to get the effect.
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Egon, thanks for this. Most of us are knew to this process (I had never been in a fabric store prior to this experience lol) so the lingo we use comes from what we thought are direct sources such as Rene April. It is also possible that her comments were translated from French now that U think about it so that may be part of the language barrier. In several articles, she is quoted as saying it was laminated cotton that was then painted over, as M and I have stated before. Funny you mentioned Barbour - I am a huge Barbour (and Belstaff) and have more jackets from both brands than I'd like to admit, including numerous waxed cotton coats which I love. I dont think the BR coat was waxed, though. It lacked the sheen in my mind. Rene April did say she wanted to approximate the look to that of weathered leather, that's true. Seems that you know exactly what needs to be done to get the SA look with your experience in painting and fabrics etc. We're all anxiously awaiting your decisions and process :) I will report back sometime next week on the collar and shearling process on my end
 
Officer K sweater

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Alright team,

sorry about the long delay. Been dealing with some personal issues. So, progress is frustratingly slow, but there is some positive development. The SR alterations are coming along. See attached. This is the Uniqlo material on the SR's lapels and on the collar (not pictured). Already makes such a huge difference. Cant wait to put it all together. We measured the magnet placement yesterday and now its finalizing the collar placement, add magnets and the shoulder panels and off we go.
PS the lapels are open that's why it looks so big and wide (so don't worry about how flappy it seems ha!)
 

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Hi guys,

I was in Berlin over the weekend, it was pretty cold, so I managed to get a few outdoor shots of the collar popped up (ignore the string backpack I'm wearing, btw).

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Lastly, a friend was able to get a nice BR-vibe shot of me. Berlin is full of gritty, neo-noir spots!

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Mechanismo said:
COLLAR SHAPE AND DIMENSIONS

Hi guys,
Leaving aside the issue of the benefits of shifting/repositioning SR's collar, I'd like to tackle the dimensions, shape and specs of the collar itself. Shahrooz was kind enough to provide me with measurements off his SR coat collar and with that, I was able to come up with a scale diagram of both this collar and my custom collar. They are as follows (measurements in centimeters).

View attachment 1505749
So just off the bat, a couple things: we can clearly see that SR's collar doesn't have that funnel, curved shape which is especially noticeable when wrapped around the face as well as the custom collar having a little bit more room too since it's almost 2 centimeters longer.

View attachment 1505755

I think it's fairly obvious too that the film collar is curved/tapered, which means that the collar edges should be slightly narrower/shorter than its widest area (just behind the neck). This is clearly visible in this shot:

View attachment 1505761
View attachment 1505759

Soul Revolver's collar edges are as wide as the entire collar itself, which is incorrect.
View attachment 1505758

All this being said, my custom collar specs -while a fairly close approximation- are still not 100% screen accurate (there are a few changes I'd make in hindsight). This very odd placing of the film collar, for example, clearly shows it's even bigger/wider and more curved (?).

View attachment 1505762
Hopefully Egon will finally get to the bottom of this!

Cheers!
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Could you give a measurement from the right side collar bottom corner to where the back of neck line is please?
 
Hi guys,

First off, I’ll admit I’m totally out of my depth when it come to K’s sweater. It’s pretty much been off my radar. So with that said, I happened to see two very inexpensive potential ‘close enoughs’ at Primark today. Price? €13 ($15)! They might be worth checking out. Or not. For what it’s worth, I bought them both and here are some shots.

So first off is a black, cotton knit sweater:

1638375328897.png
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The second one is far thinner, knit black/charcoal cotton (I'm wearing a black t-shirt underneath).

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Received the revised Magnoli today. It is a beautiful coat - the photos on their website really don't do it justice. I'll get some more pics up ASAP - but a few quick observations. The shoulders have the pads and structure in them. So they have updated here. They have also fixed the collar to be SA. It has that nice funnel shape to it. Magnets are in the right places and the collar sits up as it should. More to come as soon as I get a chance. Oh.. sizing wise its good, a fraction tight in the armpit area, but I put on a bit of weight since I ordered it. Once I drop it, should be perfect.

Oh.. and its 30 degrees in Australia.. going to be a while before I can wear this thing anywhere! Its so warm!

Very quick iPhone snaps of the padded shoulder, neck area. I'd say it has SA structure now - but I need to taker more shots to better show the shoulder construction.

I am keen to receive the SR coat to compare.
 

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jholko said:
Received the revised Magnoli today. It is a beautiful coat - the photos on their website really don't do it justice. I'll get some more pics up ASAP - but a few quick observations. The shoulders have the pads and structure in them. So they have updated here. They have also fixed the collar to be SA. It has that nice funnel shape to it. Magnets are in the right places and the collar sits up as it should. More to come as soon as I get a chance. Oh.. sizing wise its good, a fraction tight in the armpit area, but I put on a bit of weight since I ordered it. Once I drop it, should be perfect.

Oh.. and its 30 degrees in Australia.. going to be a while before I can wear this thing anywhere! Its so warm!

Very quick iPhone snaps of the padded shoulder, neck area. I'd say it has SA structure now - but I need to taker more shots to better show the shoulder construction.

I am keen to receive the SR coat to compare.
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Hey man, thanks for uploading these pics. They’re very useful.

The coat looks great and the ‘tubing’ around the edges of the lapel is a nice SA touch (this is something SR gets correct too but is lacking on WSLs). I like the color too. Regarding the shoulder panels, it’s hard to get a precise idea from that angle, but again, they’re looking very decent.

So, leaving the shearling issue aside, -to my eyes- what still looks off is the collar. The placing on the short side is now correct but in terms of dimensions (and possibly shape), it looks to be too small width/height-wise. Moreover, as also seen in Magnoli’s new website image, (EDIT: and a Reddit user who bought his Magnoli a year ago below) the collar appears to be prone to ‘crumple’ (this might be due to the shearling's thickness).

1638830274939.png


It would be terrific if, whenever you get a chance, you could take an overhead photo of the back of the collar by laying it flat against a table (like the photo I posted above). That way we could get a better read on the collar’s size/shape/dimensions. Even better, if you could measure it, we could compare Magnoli’s new collar to Soul Revolver’s specs (as provided by Shahrooz) as well as my custom collar. Very curious to see how they all compare.
 
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I think the color is good - it depends so much on what light you look at it under. It's quite dark in many lighting situations which I really like. I need to get some wear and tear on it though. Get it in the rain and get it worn in. The collar sits up really nicely - it has really good structure, so I don't think it's going to droop over time. Feels very solid in that area. Im actually surprised how solid it feels and how well it sits up. When I feel that area it feels like there is deliberate structure inside to help it sit up. There is more than just fabric and shearling holding it up I think.

The shearling is not SA - we know that. I had them heavily distress it, so it's a bit closer to accurate than 'clean'. I intend to distress it a lot more. The attached shows the collar flat. It's not too short, coming up just below the eyes / lower bridge of the nose - which I think is where it is supposed to be? But crucially it's got the funnel shape right.
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Let me know if you want more pics.

P.S something I don't like - it leaves a waxy feel on your hands after handling.. but that's kind of nature of the beast with waxed cotton.
 
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scottypavarotti said:
For what it’s worth, my size L Soul Revolver jacket just arrived and fits me very well (to recap, I’m 183 cm, 77-78kg, 110cm chest (43inches) and wear 31-32 inch jeans. I certainly need the L in the shoulders but it fits pretty well with a sweater under it. So far a little creased from shipping but it’s obviously a good quality jacket and certainly very warm.
I’m arguably not obsessed with 100% screen accuracy, but it certainly gives the vibe of the screen coat and I’m really happy with it. I’ve got a spare couple of inches around the waist so I might get an additional fastener to tighten that up a bit.View attachment 1484998
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Is it tight on you at all? Do you have full range of motion? According to their sizing, you should be an XL almost an XXL.
 
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