Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
- Start date
CountLau
Well-Known Member
yes that's why bep owner said to protect the cloth with scotch tape on fur edges.
Dunno how and if it'd be easy to clean it, probably a laminate would be easier to avoid stains due to accidental overdyeing, and your lapels I guess they absorbed the dye on the other side since they are in pure cotton and don't have any plastic barrier to limit absorption, you could try with alcohol but maybe now it's already dried and harder to remove.
On mine I often did the distressing on the fur again and it poured out on the fabric, but it was easy to clean, now in everything I put it through I should be careful and since my external coating now it's barely perceptible to the touch, I will do the final distressing and washing when still already dismounted, before resewing it
Last edited:
RickC137
Member
Hey.., so here's what I got..
The fur.., is perfect.., I couldn't have asked for it to turn out any better.. color is great and I still retain the OG texture..
But the waxing... smh.. ugh..
I really don't know how you guys have managed to do it right
Everytime I do it, it either doesn't absorb enough or it absorbs too much..
I think I need to get another Barbour tin..
You were right.. one wasn't enough to get it the way I want..
Initially I had that nice shine on most of it.. but there were some parts where the wax looked too thick.., and some white built up in the thread areas.. so, it doesn't take too much heat to just absorb right in..
There's just a few places where it looks the way I want it to.. but I'll definitely need a 2nd tin.. and I likely use the whole thing again..
The waxing is by far the biggest pain to deal with and get looking 'right' it's crazy how much you need.. to do it perfectly, probably need like 3 of the damn things.. smh $$$
The fur.., is perfect.., I couldn't have asked for it to turn out any better.. color is great and I still retain the OG texture..
But the waxing... smh.. ugh..
I really don't know how you guys have managed to do it right
Everytime I do it, it either doesn't absorb enough or it absorbs too much..
I think I need to get another Barbour tin..
You were right.. one wasn't enough to get it the way I want..
Initially I had that nice shine on most of it.. but there were some parts where the wax looked too thick.., and some white built up in the thread areas.. so, it doesn't take too much heat to just absorb right in..
There's just a few places where it looks the way I want it to.. but I'll definitely need a 2nd tin.. and I likely use the whole thing again..
The waxing is by far the biggest pain to deal with and get looking 'right' it's crazy how much you need.. to do it perfectly, probably need like 3 of the damn things.. smh $$$
Attachments
Last edited:
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Just from the pictures, it looks there are little clumps of wax (those white spots) here and there, which is odd. That's what the hairdryer is for, to make sure any excess wax is melts into the fabric as you wipe it. It's also important to do it in a very warm room.
Did you heat up the wax in a sauce pan with hot water? Once you do that, the wax turns clear like a transparent liquid.
Then you apply on the coat uniformly, panel by panel.
After you apply a generous coating, you also blow-dry each panel as you progress. This is when that 'sheen' comes out and you wipe away any excess wax or just work it into the fabric as you blow-dry it.
Did you heat up the wax in a sauce pan with hot water? Once you do that, the wax turns clear like a transparent liquid.
Then you apply on the coat uniformly, panel by panel.
After you apply a generous coating, you also blow-dry each panel as you progress. This is when that 'sheen' comes out and you wipe away any excess wax or just work it into the fabric as you blow-dry it.
CountLau
Well-Known Member
I assume it needs to take longer and do a small piece at a time, so that everything is uniform.
Of course, having more wax gives you the necessary leeway.
As I imagined, at least from what it looks like in pic, the color darkens quite clearly, and I assume that the bep duck base is still quite dark, although not as dark as my original laminated twill (which firstly seems dark grey but when I opened the lining I discovered it started from a pure black cotton twill that has no coating on the inner side).
The wsl also from pics here of those who bought it recently, it seems to me that it starts from a duck with a base color of a less dark gray than the greenish gray bep/els.
In any case, I'm now on the ball and I'll have to dance, I'll see this lighter teal gray that I'm preparing as it comes, then also the acrylic coating that I use tends to darken the color, but I should start from a rather light base this time, we'll see.
Not bad anyway, come on, at least the Barbour wax does its thing aesthetically without half measures, the one I used didn't leave enough of a laminate effect on the fabric (I used the "storm proof" brand).
Last edited:
RickC137
Member
yea i did all that.. and any spot where the wax balls up like that.., i have to hit it with heat for a while to get rid of the white, but when I do that,, it dissolves all the wax into the coat and then it no longer has a sheen.. you got yours to look so perfect.. damn..
yea i heated the tin up by dropping it in a boiling pot of water.., my rooms temp is 70F.. idk.. I did everything just like in that video basically..
its like the same scenario as the Otter Wax all over again.. smh.., next time I'm going to make sure the wax is 100% liquified.. and not use a blowdryer or heat gun.. ughh feels like it was such a waste right now lol.. so left out certain areas? like the collar?? maybe I should do that.. just focus on the main areas that get seen more..
with such a topcoat sheen..., does your coat feel kinda.., 'sticky' ..?? I just wanted a nice balance of sheen without it being a glue magnet.. and I overdid the heat again I guess.. The Barbour wax smells so much better though.. its way more subtle
RickC137
Member
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
No, I'd avoid adding any water...
So far, it's not looking bad, but just based on the pics, it seems like you might not have spread the wax evenly (and generously) enough? I mean, it shouldn't have a patchy appearance. It should be uniform... Did you use a soft, absorbent sponge? That's why I suggested really daubing it on there generously.
This kind of sponge:
The clumps should be smoothed out by the sponge was you evenly blow-dry the surface area...
Dunno, I hope all of this helps. Some of it boils down to trial and error.
So far, it's not looking bad, but just based on the pics, it seems like you might not have spread the wax evenly (and generously) enough? I mean, it shouldn't have a patchy appearance. It should be uniform... Did you use a soft, absorbent sponge? That's why I suggested really daubing it on there generously.
This kind of sponge:
The clumps should be smoothed out by the sponge was you evenly blow-dry the surface area...
Dunno, I hope all of this helps. Some of it boils down to trial and error.
CountLau
Well-Known Member
couple weeks ago I found a duck jacket in a second-hand market, and I imagined how could it be if was the k coat. I figured out it wasn't that close, since the cloth was too smooth, even more than my twill, and usually duck should be tougher. So it's evident that not all duck canvas clothes are the same and react the same to treatments (as waxing could be).
Maybe wsl duck is better for waxing? To know every right possibility without having a real idea of the original k coat consistence (by seeing it alive and touching it), the only way might be having all the different clothes from considerable vendors and try to tweak'em to best level we could imagine right from what we see on our screens, then choose a coat starting from the point you could consider your abilities and available means, ready to transform it properly, all considered that no vendor matches exactly the cloth. Simply not possible, except having money to waste for it and ask everyone to send cloth enough and then buy waxes, plastic coating and colors enough to make every possible experiment.
I would say that if we are not wealthy or do not live to spend money and time mostly on that (not even having the experience of a designer of the level of br49 production, at least for what I believe the average), it is a path that hardly anyone here I think I would never see it go through and illustrate, and I say this because with all we have spent on words and pages here, by now if he was there and wanted to intervene, I think we will have already read it. Never say never, but I rely on myself mostly, so again, without knowing in advance how the cloth reacts, just finger crossed, be careful, and do our own tries...
Last edited:
RickC137
Member
Na I didn't wanna use a sponge cause I had thought it would soak up too much wax..
But yea that's why I definitely need more.. wasn't enough to go all round completely
RickC137
Member
Yeah maybe if they see ppl like me struggle enough haha.., but yeah, nobody's listening on that level..
Idk, I don't think it's the duck.. I think it's me lol ,, just botched application likely.. I was trying to stretch one can and it's just too much coat for one wax tin..
I'd like to wax some pants at some point now too,, I think that would be neat
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
That's the culprit, then. Definitely use a sponge.
CountLau
Well-Known Member
you can try to do the calculation I did for acrylic: I took as an example how much paint I use for a wall and made an equation, so if 1lt = 7-9m2 then consider that for a coat it will correspond to approximately 2 -3m2 = the minimum useful quantity will be approximately 0.25lt!
To try to restore the laminate, I don't use more than a light hand, but the wax must be absorbed so maybe two are needed = minimum 0.5lt!
1 tin of thornproof = 0.2lt, therefore insufficient, I would say that two are enough but you take them all out if you follow my reasoning you should finish them both by giving two coats, the first heavier and the second lighter, concentrating where it is needed most, in the end however it is an expense and must be taken into account with everything else, so these changes must be budgeted for when considering what needs to be done on the coat.
Carbusonic acrylic coating used by me = 1lt tin, now I've already played with the first one because it held well but still left marks due to the old ****** acrylic paint I had tried, so I have half left, but I certainly won't spend two hands and it will be fine, then I will add nikwax (if I have not already completely destroyed the coat with other dyes I'm going to) and I will do it with a delicate washing machine final cycle thus also giving a final rinse, and I will put it on ensuring the water repellency at the highest levels even much more than originally, 4x the recommended dose so 50ml for I'd say 100 for a coat = I wil put 300-400ml and I'm on the safe side
CountLau
Well-Known Member
I have now understood that projects of this kind must be taken calmly, then even put it aside if it is with half-finished work, and if you don't have money you wait and without haste with commitment you make things happen... oh you'll see if sooner or later with the necessary calm will not end as it should
After being offsite for a while, I'm catching up on this thread for the first time in a few months, and I was intrigued by this post. Jameel Ur , is the buckram now included as part of the coat being sold by BEP/ELS? Either as part of the default pattern or as a custom option? Or was this simply a behind-the-scenes test that hasn't gone into production?
Usually we use Fusing Interlining in coat fur. Buckram option is available upon request.
I don't have any issue to use buckram in collar back, if someone ask me I'll paste buckram in coaalr.
IMO, there is no buckram in collar bottom part, specially on collar back, however if nayone wants I'll do that.
Thanks
CountLau
Well-Known Member
Hi Jameel, some question 4 u:
- on the base of neck it's clearly visible something (for instance, kinda half-moon) which helps give structure to the collar, maybe it's not buckram but there's something for sure (I put neoprene half-moon and worked great, but the collar is a bit tight and now I removed neoprene by replacing it with another half-moon made in 3 layer buckram, thinner and functional in order to regain a bit of space).
So ok even without buckram, but what do you think it is?
- bep (zlurpo? never understood) is selling as a discounted sales on etsy and keeping returned coats in the US and do not ship to Italy, I consider the price still high, both for the conditions in which they seem to be kept in pics and they are already made-up size and details, and for the comparison with, for example, a new WSL which costs almost one of those used.
Do you keep some returned coats in your country as well? and if yes, do you have some in duck weave and think about selling at a reasonable price, eventually shipping them to Italy? in that case, please let me know, I would consider if price match my expectations for me as I am already your customer and considering that they are used and returned, and if measurements can match me, I would think about
- again on that pic of Gosling back, with or without putting something underneath to help the neck standing, it's clear that collar should be a bit wider (so then having a longer curved upper edge) avoiding to shrink the face and having a more funnel-like shape, do you tweak the models (at least that part)?
to ask a vendor a collar to be sent after the purchase and replacing it by myself, it's a job that I have no intention of doing, I would have asked for it for the one I already have that I've almost finished transforming as I wanted, but apart from the fact that I would no longer be able to manage the same colors, being in an advanced stage of the process that I did, but in case of any future purchase, it should be perfect since I don't wanna get myself into it and no other simpler methods (if ever exist) to tweak it
- pic you put aside here on the left, is it waxed duck cotton? or uncoated duck?
I shared our waxed cotton fabric coat (different coat from Black Laminated coat). It's slightly stiff than duck cloth coat.
And I can't speak about Zlurpo pricing policy.
I don't have any returned coat in stock, because I sold only few custom coats from ELS site..
CountLau
Well-Known Member
ok I had that piece of fabric on the back of that label, but there must be something more to give that shape, since that rectangular strap didn't seem to give structure at all, almost if compared to the shape I can see from the movie still.
I'll go on with my triple layer buckram half-moon, I believe it works well.
The way waxed cotton duck looks, it's very nice, but I can notice on pic here it tends to holds creases same way as the laminated twill (mine has them no more, but that because I operated a real distortion of the fabric with al my processing it and I would never do something like that again, even if it turned out perfect in the end).
I assume it also goes hand in hand with stiffness, would it perhaps be a good idea to try letting it soak? but if it is real wax, I assume that it wouldn't like the treatment, in fact I was hoping that it was a kind of plastic laminate and not real wax, also because if not, it is clearly not washable.
However, now I already have my hands quite full with the one I already bought, but you'll ever run discount periods for a duck, please let me know, I would think about it anyway, even if I aim to save and make mine perfect.
