RickC137
Member
Yeah your coat looks so proper., it's basically perfect.. definitely a bit lighter color than the film one but in a good way honestly.. looks surprisingly better that way
Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
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CountLau
Well-Known Member
So you wanna get into it, making some works with ur own hands. Sounds good, be careful. For the fur, I suggest permanent alc-ink markers and after the a rag soaked in alcohol to spread it, safer than shoe polish for your health, and cheap (to buy ranger dyes and spray it would be more effective, but you can start from there and you will spent two pennies for the markers...). Markers (only non-toxic,alcohol ink based) is a hard work, but cheap and if the other option is shoe polish, I strongly discourage. I don't trust that the production used a normal shoe polish to distress a fur that even if dried, it has to make contact with Gosling's face, usually they contain sature hydrocarbons (not good for your health, fit well for the shoes only).
SR...well, you figured out what many of us here already know...
Slub / duck / twill mean the weave of the fabric (original movie coat, wsl and bep/els non-laminated, so I guess also the one you bought, are duck texture (canvas), mine is slub twill (similar to denim but it's a variation I find middle way with a non-pure twill/denim, so that's good to me to be closer to the movie one even if not duck than a pure twill, but SR color rocks I must admit), SR is pure twill.
If you already have Otter wax enough, in ur shoes I'd use it, should be better, more natural and even more expensive the buy a new one of Barbour wax, even if Barbour wax is top brand. Be sure you bought a non-waxed/coated coat, cause I doubted in those returns they had some and I asked here posts ago, but nobody answered me for that.
You're welcome
CountLau
Well-Known Member
ok, I would say duck uncoated, one of their very last fabrics (if I've well understood here, the first was my black laminated which looks dark grey since the PU has lightened a bit the cotton and it's clearly visible full black on the inner side if you open it, the other one is a waxed-like stiff duck, and than this they suggested me when I bought it new choosing the laminate in the end)
CountLau
Well-Known Member
I'm waiting for the grey to finish it, a long journey which never ends
CountLau
Well-Known Member
a comparison to better understand what I mean.
As pointed out by RickC137 mine is now a bit lighter than SA, but by now I had understood in the movie, that dark color is given above all by the moment in which it is intended, perhaps at night or in shots with poor lighting (except for the museum version of the coat where it clearly seems to be a new one with dark fabric and also brownish fur), so together with my not wanting to appear threatening or in the dark style à la Matrix, this approach is more casual (and easy) for a long coat like that, and in any case you can clearly see how the sweater underneath is definitely darker than the coat (although in many scenes it wouldn't seem, I'd say a close-up like this tells the truth).
On such a dark base of Jameel Ur 's laminate (which I assume since they produced with the duck they chose a lighter color also for this reason), a radical intervention was needed, or the gray is not covering enough. Wanting to safeguard the possibility of washing it by hand without problems, I will wait for the liquitex medium and a not too dark gray before redoing the final touches on this base, which as known for those who tried with their hand at coloring synthetics without risking messing'em up using the typical autoclaving method (with such a polyurethane type coating would probably mean throwing everything away), left like this, in addition to being a little too aqua, it also tends to create streaks as it is not perfectly fixed (but fixing dyes on laminated cotton isn't a joke, since heat is anyway required and the room is very risky, not been able to even approach to 100°C when the PU would begin to melt and the coat irremediably damaged), which in part also adds to the style, but at this point I want a job that borders on perfection, arrived this far, because in any case I already seem to have made a clear positive change this time, it seems to me on another planet and the few who have seen this result yet to be finished, are anyway confirming the improvement. So now I think I can say this is the required brightness, just a bit more of grey, and eventually a fur change.
Correct me if I'm wrong
As pointed out by RickC137 mine is now a bit lighter than SA, but by now I had understood in the movie, that dark color is given above all by the moment in which it is intended, perhaps at night or in shots with poor lighting (except for the museum version of the coat where it clearly seems to be a new one with dark fabric and also brownish fur), so together with my not wanting to appear threatening or in the dark style à la Matrix, this approach is more casual (and easy) for a long coat like that, and in any case you can clearly see how the sweater underneath is definitely darker than the coat (although in many scenes it wouldn't seem, I'd say a close-up like this tells the truth).
On such a dark base of Jameel Ur 's laminate (which I assume since they produced with the duck they chose a lighter color also for this reason), a radical intervention was needed, or the gray is not covering enough. Wanting to safeguard the possibility of washing it by hand without problems, I will wait for the liquitex medium and a not too dark gray before redoing the final touches on this base, which as known for those who tried with their hand at coloring synthetics without risking messing'em up using the typical autoclaving method (with such a polyurethane type coating would probably mean throwing everything away), left like this, in addition to being a little too aqua, it also tends to create streaks as it is not perfectly fixed (but fixing dyes on laminated cotton isn't a joke, since heat is anyway required and the room is very risky, not been able to even approach to 100°C when the PU would begin to melt and the coat irremediably damaged), which in part also adds to the style, but at this point I want a job that borders on perfection, arrived this far, because in any case I already seem to have made a clear positive change this time, it seems to me on another planet and the few who have seen this result yet to be finished, are anyway confirming the improvement. So now I think I can say this is the required brightness, just a bit more of grey, and eventually a fur change.
Correct me if I'm wrong
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Hi
You can order a wsl without problems, it's really great (with a few modifications to make for my part).
Don't hesitate to ask them questions. They answer all emails but they are not very communicative....
I got mine custom made.
As for the letters on the back, I didn't take them. You're right, they look too flashy at wsl, and with any color. So I didn't dare...
But between us, in the film, the letters are almost invisible on k's coat. I hadn't even noticed it before going to this forum... It's as if he didn't have one.
CountLau
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear they answered you, but it would be nice to have someone who fully cooperate to reach the very top level in terms of details...
too bad they didn't care about the instructions you sent them from Mechanismo for the collar, those details are crucial, your coat is fine anyway and compared to bep/els you don't need to change or work the fur at all costs immediately, but if you would change your mind and take that collar to SA level, it would cost a lot of money (or long and tricky work if you do it yourself)...their duck is also nice, did you understand if it is waxed for real or is laminated?
I still have a dream of a wsl duck laminated,with their top lining, but brought to design SA details Jameel has been so good to implement (collar even if a bit less curved, piping effect, shoulder panel theirs is ok too)...and it's clear to me that it will remain just a dream, so I'm keeping to tweak mine and eventually invest on mine...
Did you know that the WSL coat is made in Pakistan?? Lol. We don't even know who we are communicating with! American, British or Pakistani???....
I would have to explain to them precisely the problem with the collar, which I would like to have modified by a tailor but I have the impression that there are not many who agree to do the work.... I would also like to do move a magnet under the fabric...
What do you call the waxed “duck”? Fur ?
CountLau
Well-Known Member
duck is the weave of the fabric of the original movie coat (the cloth the coat is made, not the fur), and it is the same you have.
Jameel has a duck too, but not the one I chose from them (as wsl, it is not laminated, maybe they've a waxed version but I on the laminate issue, it will now be clear that I am a fundamentalist).
I assume wsl (like Jameel) manages everything from Pakistan, although I assume I have interfaced with Zlurpo (from US, who here on the thread I understand has disappeared) who collaborates with Jameel, if I'm wrong please correct me.
Everyone has their own level of customer orientation and time or less to dedicate to responses, and I consider myself understanding that for certain prices, and at a distance, you can have up to a certain point.
But the question is quite exciting, and in my case, as I have already written, I could have considered selling my coat here in my area, if someone guaranteed me the necessary further implementations required.
I didn't get a response, so I assume it's not possible to do better, so I'm doing my best on my own...that's my coat now, phone cam doesn't tell full truth and is now a bit too aqua, I'm waiting for dyes to be delivered to me to finish the job, but already now it's day and night compared to before, I'm already so spontaneous in wearing it in lighter color, previously I understood it was too dark...I'm definitely losing my mind on it to keep working every time
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RickC137
Member
I recently learned from this thread, the term.. 'duck' it is a type of canvas fabric.. it has to do with the way it is weaved..
Usually the brand Carhardt.. their stuff is duck.. the jackets and pants.. the other common 'tough' fabric is denim.. (like blue jeans)
it has a different weave pattern though.. apparently duck is stronger..
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RickC137
Member
idk if you'd have the funds, the time, and/or desire to... but, have you ever considered buying more of these coats.., modifying them to your specs, and then reselling them as 'the perfect K coat' .., I mean.., im sure it would be really time consuming for you ,, but I imagine a decent number of ppl would be into it.., just so they could have the best possible results without having to do the elbow work themselvesduck is the weave of the fabric of the original movie coat (the cloth the coat is made, not the fur), and it is the same you have.
Jameel has a duck too, but not the one I chose from them (as wsl, it is not laminated, maybe they've a waxed version but I on the laminate issue, it will now be clear that I am a fundamentalist).
I assume wsl (like Jameel) manages everything from Pakistan, although I assume I have interfaced with Zlurpo (from US, who here on the forum I understand has disappeared) who collaborates with Jameel, if I'm wrong please correct me.
Everyone has their own level of customer orientation and time or less to dedicate to responses, and I consider myself understanding that for certain prices, and at a distance, you can have up to a certain point.
But the question is quite exciting, and in my case, as I have already written, I could have considered selling my coat here in my area, if someone guaranteed me the necessary further implementations required.
I didn't get a response, so I assume it's not possible to do better, so I'm doing my best on my own...that's my coat now, phone cam doesn't tell full truth and is now a bit too aqua, I'm waiting for dyes to be delivered to me to finish the job, but already now it's day and night compared to before, I'm already so spontaneous in wearing it in lighter color, previously I understood it was too dark...I'm definitely losing my mind on it to keep working every time
RickC137
Member
So am I to believe these two are the same fabric?? this one looks different to me than the Big Effects version..
this has more of that.. almost 'plush' look.. like a more textured fleece look rather than flat, rough canvas..
and I like this plush aspect.. but in the one photo it said Zlurpo/Jameel... I thought Jameel did BEP and Zlurpo is
for Excellent Leather Shop.. their prices are really similar.. but idk.., this one looks like a softer material imo..
probably holds wax better too I'd imagine.. a more textured looking material it would appear
this has more of that.. almost 'plush' look.. like a more textured fleece look rather than flat, rough canvas..
and I like this plush aspect.. but in the one photo it said Zlurpo/Jameel... I thought Jameel did BEP and Zlurpo is
for Excellent Leather Shop.. their prices are really similar.. but idk.., this one looks like a softer material imo..
probably holds wax better too I'd imagine.. a more textured looking material it would appear
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CountLau
Well-Known Member
noo man, tailoring is a ****** job and not my job
thanks for appreciations to my job but if there is someone who could do the perfect coat must be some of them (Jameel / wsl / sr etc), I now have more time and I dedicate it (when I can) to this little obsession of mine until I make it perfect (in fact, in all honesty, I still can't define it as such), however I understood well both on forums like these and in person, that the "perfect coat" can become perfect only and exclusively when the touch-ups are done on the customer in flesh and blood, I will never get tired of repeating it.I'm having trouble making this stuff, it may seem like I enjoy it, but even if I'm passionate about it, I guarantee you that it's not like that, I try not to rush to finish both because I have to wait when I order what I need and because I'd be in a hurry definitely bad, not even being a real costume designer
CountLau
Well-Known Member
this was what I initially bought:
- same dreadful yellow that have good fleeces and I distressed to SA level (but that yellow needs too much dyes on it...that's why I now planned to change mine, it deteriorates quickly exceeding with these treatments),
- duck (like the one in the film),
- waxed (but it was never made clear if it is a different laminate from the black twill I got which looks like waxed and isn't, but it doesn't even sparkle to look at it for a while, and I read here that those who had bought it found it rather stiff, so I changed my mind the next day and had it changed to mine, which I find more SA in the end I must say it gives me satisfaction).
It's one of the fabrics that can be requested from bep/els, exactly the one I asked if it also existed among their discounted returns, but no one here gave me feedback...so I deduce that making this notorious perfect k coat is just my obsession, and perhaps a duty say about Mechanismo also, I had also read others here, but all of them like us non-experts I think, and all except me and Mechanismo have disappeared, I have no longer read and I deduce that they are fine with that.
From the vendors, no other prediction to further improve has actually come out, which therefore it needs intuition and setting oneself on one's own will, if you really wants to see how far we can go with that
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RickC137
Member
CountLau
Well-Known Member
Nice...and it's true that you remind Gosling
So that's the uncoated cloth from bep, it looks like a combed cotton, that duck is very nice and SA.
Dunno about the lining from you pic, mine (and not only mine) needed a change it was weak, but if you say it has snug fit, you should be careful in that case not to risk messing with the size, and we've already figured out they used different types so maybe you could be fine with that...
That yellow is still dreadful, sorry, but you could definitely manage to fix it somehow, I gave you my suggestions. You could also trim the edges to better shape it but it needs to be careful and it's a no-comeback option (if you would do damages doing it you must be able to fix it without the stitches to be seen or you will end up with a mandatory fur change).
There are probably many minors details you can fix which they maybe also a matter of personal taste (magnets to add -not that easy point- to fix the collar better when opened, I put also non-SA useful tweaks like zippers on the pockets, triangle shaped buckram+additional artificial wool to the lapels to better hold the opened shape and positioning, and eventually many others).
Waxing could give a desired shine,it should darken a bit the brightness, and maybe giving some rainproof properties.
So have a nice day in working it, hope 4 u it will come out even better.
Must say that, to me, if it looks like that, maybe you won't have a need for a better coat in the future, unless you will become obsessed like me for the laminated cloth: in that case, since wax coating (especially self-made) needs maintenance and it'ìs not suitable to be washed easily, and self-made lamination with plasticizers could easily bad and definitive consequences on the fabric in my experience, you will, but I consider design details on the one you already have on another planet (better) than the expensive SR, which from what seen here, will probably end up with huge lapels and other wrong proportions, carpet-like non-distressable fur, ineffective closure, and others. If you'd buy a new bep/els in laminated cotton the same as me, it will come in slub twilland in a too dark color so you should paint it and it's really risky and tricky (I know what) and I prefer it for the shine and rainproof, I'm finding it versatile to my color tweaks, but duck would be SA the most theorically (if only would have been laminated...). Blanket is always too short.
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CountLau
Well-Known Member
ah about the magnet to move, it might be hard work, but I actually don't know how wsl has put magnets on the coat, since nobody here gave feedback about it, but on my bep, magnets were fixed with a very strong glue on pieces of fabric wrapped all around and it was quite impossible to remove them without damaging something, I did it cause since I put a thicker lining, it was mandatory to move the magnets to the new correct positioning or they wouldn't do their job anymore.
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RickC137
Member
yea im just really glad the lettering on the back doesn't stand out dramatically.. because this is the discounted one, there were no available pictures of the back.. and i assume its an older model of it.., so even though the new photos show the subtle back print, I had no way to be sure that this one had it too.. honestly, the coats pretty tight on me.. i have broader shoulders and chest so its going to be difficult to get too many layers of clothes on underneath.. and i wanted this is as my 'full on winter' coat.. (since its so long) for those 32F and below temp days.. here in the Northeast USA..,
Yes, i'm still going to try and make the fur a darker brown.. and try to trim down a bit.. (although the fur along the neck is pretty comfortable, its a bit distracting) ... im just glad its a little more brown and less yellow than I was expecting..
I'm just gonna focus on the waxing right now.. if it ends up darker from it.. I don't mind.. I have a large bar of solid Otter Wax i got a while ago.. although, I wish I had the more liquid/paste version.., I seen some videos where I can actually melt the wax first.. OR.., I do have a heat gun in the garage... I can just use a heat gun to get it to absorb better.. I think I'll be alright.. like I said my main concern is getting that fur color darker..
I don't think I'll be doing anything else with it just yet.. I also get pretty obsessive about my projects but I'm going to keep it simple for now lol,
the idea of laminating it feels risky to me.. cause it can crack right? I just don't have any experience with something like that.. feel like it will be a little more work than I care to deal with right now
am I good to wash this in a machine first ya think? I'd like to.. since I don't know where it's been, who had it, and how long they wore it lol..
and I figure if i'm going to wash it.., I should do so before i start this waxing process.. its also kind of wrinkled.. which isn't all that bad because it gives it a more worn, authentic look.. but I imagine after washing and waxing, that won't really matter anymore
Yes, i'm still going to try and make the fur a darker brown.. and try to trim down a bit.. (although the fur along the neck is pretty comfortable, its a bit distracting) ... im just glad its a little more brown and less yellow than I was expecting..
I'm just gonna focus on the waxing right now.. if it ends up darker from it.. I don't mind.. I have a large bar of solid Otter Wax i got a while ago.. although, I wish I had the more liquid/paste version.., I seen some videos where I can actually melt the wax first.. OR.., I do have a heat gun in the garage... I can just use a heat gun to get it to absorb better.. I think I'll be alright.. like I said my main concern is getting that fur color darker..
I don't think I'll be doing anything else with it just yet.. I also get pretty obsessive about my projects but I'm going to keep it simple for now lol,
the idea of laminating it feels risky to me.. cause it can crack right? I just don't have any experience with something like that.. feel like it will be a little more work than I care to deal with right now
am I good to wash this in a machine first ya think? I'd like to.. since I don't know where it's been, who had it, and how long they wore it lol..
and I figure if i'm going to wash it.., I should do so before i start this waxing process.. its also kind of wrinkled.. which isn't all that bad because it gives it a more worn, authentic look.. but I imagine after washing and waxing, that won't really matter anymore
