Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

[RickC137]

Nicely done!

Hey Mechanismo,, what does that Barbour wax smell like btw..?? You would think they could make these waxes smell somewhat decent.. lol
I feel like my coat smells so weird now from the Otter wax.., plus areas where the fur got heated,, maybe whatever adhesive they used underneath.. or the fur itself.. ( this is after I washed it mind you..). after I washed it, it smelled good, but now with the heating and waxing.., smells kinda weird again.., ugh, ...that's why I like leather jackets generally.. I love the smell of leather..
I bet the Soul Revolver one doesn't have any bizarre smells.. idk if its the fur, the wax, the canvas itself or a combination of all three, but yeah,
would be nice if the next wax I use has a nice scent to it

 

[CountLau]

Hey Mechanismo,, what does that Barbour wax smell like btw..?? You would think they could make these waxes smell somewhat decent.. lol
I feel like my coat smells so weird now from the Otter wax.., plus areas where the fur got heated,, maybe whatever adhesive they used underneath.. or the fur itself.. ( this is after I washed it mind you..). after I washed it, it smelled good, but now with the heating and waxing.., smells kinda weird again.., ugh, ...that's why I like leather jackets generally.. I love the smell of leather..
I bet the Soul Revolver one doesn't have any bizarre smells.. idk if its the fur, the wax, the canvas itself or a combination of all three, but yeah,
would be nice if the next wax I use has a nice scent to it

so has Otter wax a bad smell? theorically, it is one the best (if not the very best, and very expensive to us in Europe) on the market natural-made...

 

[RickC137]

It's $20 USD for the bigger bar.. $13 for the small one.. free shipping on amazon..
The liquid tin of it is $22 ... the liquid tin of the Barbour wax is $25.50 USD..

so for me, the Barbour is more expensive.. I just think with how big the jacket is.., the bar wax just isn't going to cut it..
I probably need liquified wax to cover such a big area.. bc with that whole bar.., I was only able to do a light coat and most
of it soaked right in.. I need to get this coat like saturated basically if I'm really going to change the texture

It's not a 'bad' smell.. it just, smells like ... wax.. plain wax.. idk, you think they could add something that gives it a more pleasant smell..

 

[CountLau]

It's $20 USD for the bigger bar.. $13 for the small one.. free shipping on amazon..
The liquid tin of it is $22 ... the liquid tin of the Barbour wax is $25.50 USD..

so for me, the Barbour is more expensive.. I just think with how big the jacket is.., the bar wax just isn't going to cut it..
I probably need liquified wax to cover such a big area.. bc with that whole bar.., I was only able to do a light coat and most
of it soaked right in.. I need to get this coat like saturated basically if I'm really going to change the texture

It's not a 'bad' smell.. it just, smells like ... wax.. plain wax.. idk, you think they could add something that gives it a more pleasant smell..

here is another story, amazon, for about same quantity (225 vs 200ml, and only one offer available for those cans):
- Otter 70€
- Barbour 29€

 

[Mechanismo]

Hey Mechanismo,, what does that Barbour wax smell like btw..?? You would think they could make these waxes smell somewhat decent.. lol
I feel like my coat smells so weird now from the Otter wax.., plus areas where the fur got heated,, maybe whatever adhesive they used underneath.. or the fur itself.. ( this is after I washed it mind you..). after I washed it, it smelled good, but now with the heating and waxing.., smells kinda weird again.., ugh, ...that's why I like leather jackets generally.. I love the smell of leather..
I bet the Soul Revolver one doesn't have any bizarre smells.. idk if its the fur, the wax, the canvas itself or a combination of all three, but yeah,
would be nice if the next wax I use has a nice scent to it

It's pretty much odorless. But bear in mind, as it explains in that video, you'll never be able to put the coat in a washer again. That's the thing with waxed coats. But as I mentioned in my post, I'd go the Barbour route and follow the tutorial.

 

[CountLau]

The problem is.., your coat was already perfect the way it was.. I wouldn't have touched it.. it had a shiny emerald color but also the teal hues.. the teal is what made it really stand out.. I would have just left it,, with that leather looking shine

as I wrote, that teal color wasn't stable and too light, it would have fade away badly at first wash, so I said I was waiting the medium to fix it...but no acrylic medium (and not even paint) seems to fix the hue long-lasting and properly, on this cloth.

Many months ago I tried bleach on a little piece I obtained when I changed the lining, the result was about nothing even pure bleach, but now I figure out that the inner side (full black and not the same grey effect from outside) is not PU laminated (the PU layer must have been fixed by machine melting it on the visible side), and the high amount of wash cycles I've done together with dyeing procedures etc, have made it slightly lighter, then since it's basically cotton, now that I finished cleaning all streaks and peels and it about to be fully recovered in the original dark tone in kinda distressed good look, I'm willing (and already doing) my very last move: bleach again (not pure and ponderated under my constant supervision to stop any exceeding in tryng to lighten that grey: by insisting, the inner is now more clear towards a middle green-brownish hue than the original black, so the aim of my game, is trying to reach an even lighter tone no matter which one, without having it too clear as in my previous fail with grey. If it won't work (as it seems from outside, where everything is about the same before), I have about the same original coat, but with no major damages (very lucky me) and a nice distressed look and a very little lightened tone. But if it works, I know what is needed for re-fix the hue perfectly, and it would be one of the simplest method to dye cotton: very simple pre-made washing machine dyes, which have never disappointed in those cases where the bleach had been successful, I saw many times that what bleach can lighten, those dyes can fix, and in that case I'll put a massive dose to be sure have some good effect, and I've no fear in too much other distressing or messing with the coat again with that.

my last thought about the situation will be the same:
- Jameel got the SA design with very few tweaks to go (if size and proportions are suitable to the customer, never possible to take for granted without make adjustments in person, but I would say with anyone, and often in person too)
- wsl best value for money considering the material quality
- SR only has a quality laminate with a slightly too bluish hue which in any case is the closest to the film, but it is really little for that price if everything else, no matter how much quality there is, makes those who really want k's coat smile.

So, there is little to go around: still, there is no one who has fully hit the mark, and for what after years it is clearly possible to find and obtain even by insisting and putting a lot of effort into it, at this point I wouldn't say it's worth the effort.
It's worth spending who knows how much on K's coat, if there's always some gap when you look at it better?
From a purely pragmatic point of view, you might as well have a coat that can possibly withstand almost a little rain, therefore laminated or waxed, but personally I trust the first one more for obvious reasons, otherwise I wouldn't have chosen it, it must be said that I have recently created an experimental hat in nylon mixed with denim, rainproof, which resembles the hat worn by replicants when they come out of production but more stylish and less hospital-type (suitable to be worn without becoming ridiculous), to be combined with the coat completing it in case rain occurs, hoping not to have compromised the lamination too much, I'll find out (I had a hood that I posted a long time ago, but with the style this move is more successful, even if k has never put stuff like this in his head).

So, in summary, if I could go back I would repeat this purchase.
The choice of a wsl is also not bad (it's worth it and at least you spend less, but you have to be able to fix it since in the end they don't do much on the details, otherwise it will cost you quite a bit to do as well), or of a discounted bep like yours, which however I don't think has any rainproof properties.
SR, Magnoli and stuff to spend almost double what I spent or triple/quadruple what you spent, frankly I see it to be left alone, because in the end there isn't all this improvement for the things that matter more, and the coat you get from it stays as distant from the film if not more.

If one day by chance I find a suitable fabric, and I still have the time to waste on it that I have now (very difficult), based on the design of the one I have from Jameel, I will make one myself, perhaps with help, and thus closing the question fully satisfied, otherwise that's fine as now.

 

[CountLau]

I'm writing again, this neverending thread is relevant but beyond that, I'm doing it for common benefit but also for my own, because now that I've made my fatal misstep, I'll have to continue on my journey, and any advice from those who perhaps was successful in one of the steps that I ponder, they would always be welcome.

as I was saying, I resurrected my coat from a situation with discolouration stains and obvious damage that had made it no longer wearable and I'll spare those pics for the faint of heart, I'll limit myself to this one, it's drying after yet another post-recolour recovery wash, but this time only light minor halos in an aged style, and a darker shade, in addition to the fur which, given the concentration of bleach used in one of the steps, it was more than normal for it to become light again, but in reality it is much more "camel" now than before and what the phone shows doesn't really do justice to reality, the fact remains that there is a lot of contrast, it's ruined on the edges and I wanted to change it, I'll distress again the nexy new one, but now that will be the least of my problems.

Let me start by saying that I have already tested the waters for a discounted bep, since I wouldn't buy another new one and not because I already intend to throw mine away, far from it, but if what I am going to write now is successful, I would have taken it (it won't be like this not having any of my sizes among the obvious ones I was aiming for) and then doing a similar job and making it really potentially as similar as possible to that of the film.

So, in order:

- last pics I posted with the drone etc, compared to now, make me cry and eat my hands, but if I have reached this point, although my ambition has certainly and largely surpassed my talents, it is because various things do not they still made it satisfactory, and unfortunately I know little about half measures; I then took a mix of light gray and emerald green spray, handled it as I know how with a sponge specifically to spread it properly, made it an aqua green that was a bit too light but nice, stable but not for any washing as without medium it is impossible to expect it to hold up a laminated cotton

- then the fatal step: I took liquitex medium (here there is only one, the same as both Amazon and others, which is considered "matte" but on the bottle it says "brilliant", there didn't seem to be any other choice for a product of renowned quality) , I took acrylic paint for fabrics but there was only light gray and too opaque, however it was confirmed that this medium had to make any acrylic elastic enough, so I added a dark green quality acrylic paint but not specific to textiles, I made the mixture proportions 1 :1 according to the manual, on this fabric perhaps was better 2medium:1paint, but in any case with a brush it was perhaps a mistake, I wanted a covering result and it exceeded the thickness of the layer, the result is that the coat becomes a sheet metal-type curbstone, perfect color but it's scary and I worry about following instructions and letting it rest before ironing it anyway even if with the medium it shouldn't help, but in any case nothing, it dries out too much and quite quickly, it starts to crack, so I try to take action with some methods but now there is little to do, other than cleaning it, sanding it a little and finally washing it, ending up bleaching it with the purposes I had written previously; so various stains emerge (although bleached for a long time in the tub without creases and in an already well diluted aqueous solution, but stains were already made by that dreaful aggressive thick acrylic fail) and lamination is now visibly compromised (now little or no shine and lost rainproof properties), so I follow my desperate recovery and this is the result, I managed to restore integrity and uniform tone with standard definitive dyers, a certain minimum thickness of polyurethane seems to still be there but not enough to call it laminate in my opinion, so the ******** is anyway done.

From analysis made previously, I haven't changed my mind, and after having also spent a lot on materials (not counting those bought for what I had made myself and put away because I've gotten bigger and it's too tight for me, but still very less SA than one made by a pro like this one), I can say that if I had bought an SR, paid double, perhaps it would have avoided all the doubts about color but not endless work on everything else, and maybe not even on color because it doesn't It's not even the same if you look at it carefully.

I have certainly been a savage and this poor coat, for at least a month now, would have deserved much more respect and it pains me, but in the end it is now wearable again, so much far from my goal then before and not as I just got it but with still the vast majority of the changes I had made to make it top, so I won't abandon it to its fate, unless it decides to tear.

I intend to:
- buy other medium and do more carefully considered tests (the only ones are liquitex again but this time in greater quantity and spread with a thin, well-spread sponge layer, or 1lt carbusonic which in terms of quantity would be on the safe side, perhaps it works better and it has great reviews), this is also intended more to be used to re-increase the coating and the shine without exceeding and never risk to become stiff or unstable / unwashable
- I still have enough acrylic lite grey for textile and maybe could add some black to darken it a bit, but I saw Fabricoat as a textile paint PU-based, I waiting for responses to info requests I sent the vendor, but it seems far better than acrylic paint (as I fear use it again even if I would use another painting method, more medium and care much more)
So the idea is to paint all over the dark bluyish grey I have now, using a grey fabricoat (not sure if better the lite grey or the dark grey, I could do tests and preferably avoiding buying too much, be informed by someone I asked or here if someone has experience with that, but PU paint should be safer and never get stiff again, then finally using a thin layer of that translucid medium (one of those two I guess) after the paint is fixed, to eventually add shine and protection since I believe the paint, even if PU, would be not enough to give a laminated full recover-like result.

So, any advice will be welcome, since my experience in this regard is much less and with these last steps, far beyond what I am entitled to.
Since a discounted bep my size isn't available, rather, in the absence of better offers, I might at that point also consider a nice unwaxed WSL, to be laminated on my own with a method that eventually proves successful (no way to invest more on k coat, if I will be unsuccessful: in that case I will keep mine as it is except darkening back the fur, and avoiding a wsl as well as other cheap even if well designed one if I already know not possible to make it coated as a laminate properly).

2nd pic shows a detail of the "slub twill" I got, and I must say that however I find it not as distant from the canvas of the movie as the SR twill is although it will certainly be of quality and well laminated

 

[RickC137]

here is another story, amazon, for about same quantity (225 vs 200ml, and only one offer available for those cans):
- Otter 70€
- Barbour 29€

Wow!! That's an insane amount of money!!

Here in the US.. just $20.. even less then 20 euros

 

[Mechanismo]

Wow!! That's an insane amount of money!!

Here in the US.. just $20.. even less then 20 euros

You need to get sylkoil wax which is what Barbour wax is, essentially. Not sure about Otter wax, but the waxing method of rubbing on wax with a dry bar will not work.

 

[CountLau]

Wow!! That's an insane amount of money!!

Here in the US.. just $20.. even less then 20 euros

As said, what comes from US to us here, it's evident that it's charged with kinda high fees and shipping costs, from Amazon I almost never paid fees then probably they already put inside the price indicated, but even other vendors, the story is about the same

 

[CountLau]

look at this, to me, it can only meaning one thing:
as R.April said they painted over laminated cotton, they had an original cloth which came in lite grey, they "didn't like it" as written, and they painted over it with a dark greenish grey.
I know understand this very well, cause since I removed pigment using also bleach and restarted from a lighter color (now quite dark again cause I had a need to well cover stains and damages done by acrylic fail, not by bleach and being an internal details in the pocker with lamination still intact, it's a confirmation of that), it is the same little aged/distressed signs that could be visible on mine right now. I don't actually need them, so I will go on with my project and the next step will probably cover all giving back a less distressed look, but it means to me that they done this, starting from a lighter tone (signs are lighter, as a possible persistence of little not perfectly covered areas of the original lite grey, or if the contrary, they should have been darker).

 

[RickC137]

You need to get sylkoil wax which is what Barbour wax is, essentially. Not sure about Otter wax, but the waxing method of rubbing on wax with a dry bar will not work.

Yeah I'm definitely going to do the Barbour wax next.. I only used the Otter Wax because I already had it at home before I even bought the coat

 

[RickC137]

It's pretty much odorless. But bear in mind, as it explains in that video, you'll never be able to put the coat in a washer again. That's the thing with waxed coats. But as I mentioned in my post, I'd go the Barbour route and follow the tutorial.

Btw.., why wouldn't I be able to wash it again..?? I don't get it.. so you just mean I would have to rewax it right..? Not bc it would wreck the coat.. or my washer.., right? If that's the case, yeah, no big deal.. i wouldn't be washing it like that anyway.. and if something happened it to.. guess I'd just have to wash n re-wax it..

 

[CountLau]

Btw.., why wouldn't I be able to wash it again..?? I don't get it.. so you just mean I would have to rewax it right..? Not bc it would wreck the coat.. or my washer.., right? If that's the case, yeah, no big deal.. i wouldn't be washing it like that anyway.. and if something happened it to.. guess I'd just have to wash n re-wax it..

Usually Barbour jacket are not washable, it's clearly indicated on instructions as "just hand clean with a lite sponge", no washer, no soaking etc.

If you wash your jacket waxed by do it yourself method, not native waxed material, I guess you should care even more...I washed my first k coat after waxed to remove the wax before trying to laminate it with plasticizer...a mess: the coat came out with clots of wax everywhere, so I took heat gun and patiently removed every clot manually by brushing it after melt, then washed again. So that, will be tedious, I fear, but I do not actually see any risk for coat or washer integrity

 

[RickC137]

Oh really?? So it clots up.. damn..
Yeah I really need this Barbour wax..
Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed with the practicality of this coat.. I honestly thought it would be warmer.. it's pretty thin.. even when I layer on clothes underneath (as best I can, since it's a tight fit) .. I wanted this for those cold temps.. 20-40F so it's a let down there, but.., I imagine once I get enough wax on it, the wind won't go through it as easily

 

[CountLau]

Oh really?? So it clots up.. damn..
Yeah I really need this Barbour wax..
Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed with the practicality of this coat.. I honestly thought it would be warmer.. it's pretty thin.. even when I layer on clothes underneath (as best I can, since it's a tight fit) .. I wanted this for those cold temps.. 20-40F so it's a let down there, but.., I imagine once I get enough wax on it, the wind won't go through it as easily

U could try, maybe with another wax and not the one I used (which wasn't that top brand) you could wash it easier, but that's my experience in doing it.

About the cold protection, mine was fine, everyone has his own cold perception, but if the lining is the same, that's one of the things here we've already pointed out, it's weak, and that's why I replaced it.

Now I will face issues in giving back consistence to the lamination of my coat, I've already ordered stuff needed for dyeing and coating, probably some of the external PU that is infused on my cloth and torn off by my fails, it gave me protection from cold compesating the original lining flaws, but probably my works have also given some more structure to my cloth now, even with less lamination, so then I cannot figure out how this coat withstand the cold with no coating at all and in that duck, not even now that I'm still waiting to strenghten it.

Imo it's anyway impossible to know if even premium SR or Magnoli k overcoats could give more in terms of cold protection, but I won't trust enough to spend so much and probably having a better lining but maybe the same result, moreover since it is not a ski down jacket, it is possible that if you don't strengthen it based on how much you need, you spend a lot on the most expensive one and then you find that it doesn't keep warm enough the same way

 

[CountLau]

I'm bringing up some other details on the table, dunno if someone already did, but I'm studying in order to make my next moves consistent as much as possible.
One the things I found excessive about the laminate I got, it was the shine, and probably the thickness of the PU applied on it, but considering Jameel's and SR's the only 2 options available, it was nice anyway.
Now I'm going to restore a bit the weakened coating.

Here below, we can see different shades of that shine, and as said, I understand that's modulated, much more natural than a laminate with leather-like effect, putting aside when the rain or the dust, it should be a very little shiny, smooth but not that elastic, look at the bottom edges and robust ironed look it has when k is approaching that tree, mine wasn't that clear-cut made-up even if also in the movie it has creases, mine has some little shrinking effect on the bottom even from the time I received it, probably because even too much elastic, and in fact now I want to recover some smoothness too and I'll rely on the medium, but the way it tends to stay now is more SA than before, so I'll be careful not to lose it, and quilting is not that pronounced in these stills, maybe is more of a matter of cloth consistence

presuming that everyone has the opportunity to analyse parts of the movie on your own, I also invite the comparison with brightness and shine that seems greater when k at the bar with Deckard, but it is a nearby scene and seen dynamically in the movie, in fact, it's also given by the light, and perhaps even a simple combed cotton, in which case it would shine a little more, confirming what I'm trying to explain. Try to watch it carefully in the movie and not only the still below where at first sight you could mistake the cloth for leather, which you could anyway compare to the first pic above

what I'm finding also that difficult for me now, it's giving the proper quantity of grey before the finisher (I will do many tests on hidden parts this time), waiting for the rite curing time, expecting the finisher to darken a bit the grey, which in fact isn't that dark. To me, is more of a greenish/bluyish grey (nor lite,neither that dark) and not a greyish dark green, and as already said, the brightness is comparable to pants brightness, with the sweater quite darker.
It's not just a matter of cosplaying (and I'm not), but if you like that style, you must consider properly the color matching regardless of any visual effect of the movie, or you risk to have another visual impact in real life (for example, too dark brings more towards a Matrix style, and in real life kinda threatening appearance for someone out there especially when closed) and also the contrast with the rest of what you're wearing is relevant. That's why I cared so much in painting the coat in a less dark tone and modulating the shine.

I assume that when I just reiterated, it is the reason why Jameel and his companions, already in the profession and certainly not the latest arrivals on the subject, then turned towards a lighter and rather non-laminated duck, presuming that they could not ask for a laminated, or maybe at who knows what price and then risk not having the lamination that gives the right effect? on certain things we expect, in addition to feedback, also the necessary improvement, but on these I have to put myself in their shoes.
Furthermore, not trying to laminate them on the fabric is understandable at this point for me, because in a while it will take more for this than for sewing a new coat and doing it on a clean fabric and risking not liking it would be out of the question.
If I ever succeed in my aim, it's not my job and not here to make money, but in case someone has a couple duck uncoated bep/els which nobody wanted and one my size, wanna send me to make a test with me without obligation, I tweak them in color and coating, then send him back one and my current slub twill coat (I'd keep for me the duck one my size), everyone's pay just for their own shipping an fees and I would do the job, it would be an offer I cannot refuse.
Let's see if I can do it, then I won't repeat it but it goes without saying it again that I would agree.

 

[RickC137]

ok.., here's the thing.., as intended.., the coat is waxed and pretty darn shiny.. my conclusion is that it only looks more matte at times because of the lighting in a particular scene and mainly, because throughout the film.., he keeps getting the coat more and more roughed up.. He gets thrown through a wall pretty early on.., all that sheet rock dust, saw dust, whatever it was.., would dirty up the coat making it look more matte.. radioactive dust in Nevada.., polluted snow.., then he ran through yet another wall.. so that's TWO walls he went through lol.. but if you note the opening shot.., it looks pretty shiny.. and when he got it cleaned up a bit.., out in the rain.., looking at the tree photos.. when he meets that sexy blonde replicant hooker,, it has a leathery shine then too.. I think the times it looks matte in texture, its just relative to the story.. like setting off Deckard's explosive traps/mines.. wouldn't have made sense for it to look shiny still in those moments..

 

[CountLau]

ok.., here's the thing.., as intended.., the coat is waxed and pretty darn shiny.. my conclusion is that it only looks more matte at times because of the lighting in a particular scene and mainly, because throughout the film.., he keeps getting the coat more and more roughed up.. He gets thrown through a wall pretty early on.., all that sheet rock dust, saw dust, whatever it was.., would dirty up the coat making it look more matte.. radioactive dust in Nevada.., polluted snow.., then he ran through yet another wall.. so that's TWO walls he went through lol.. but if you note the opening shot.., it looks pretty shiny.. and when he got it cleaned up a bit.., out in the rain.., looking at the tree photos.. when he meets that sexy blonde replicant hooker,, it has a leathery shine then too.. I think the times it looks matte in texture, its just relative to the story.. like setting off Deckard's explosive traps/mines.. wouldn't have made sense for it to look shiny still in those moments..

to know it for sure, must be there at the museum and also see it outside of the case possibly, touching it and with natural lite avoiding the glass reflex.
Imho, and for my personal taste, it could also be that shiny, but the look it has after all the battles (without being dirty, and not even too shiny) it's exactly the look I wanna have.

But also in the museum, to me, it seems to be two versions of the coat (one seems darker and the fur more of a mustard tone, the other seems lighter with fur in lite camel which could resemble very bright in some close-ups, if not the distressed areas).
In both, I cannot see so much of a shine (one seems new just made and glossier, darker), it's quite the same I pointed out in pics before, but obviosly has some, definitely not uncoated at all, so for rainproofing it as well add some satin effect, I'd consider waxing legit too. But very little, just the bit needed, in any case, in these months I went outside wearing mine (bep slub twill laminated) as it comes and also after some treatments still quite shiny, I must say that now is even more appreciated and with a less aggressive look, but the disaster I made with acrylic torn too much coating away, so I will restore it a bit anyway, for a bit shine more as well for rainproof properties more.

Blade Runner 2049 movie costumes on display...

hollywoodmoviecostumesandprops.blogspot.com

Blade Runner 2049 film costumes on display...

hollywoodmoviecostumesandprops.blogspot.com

My fav would be (in order to square the circle both for practicality, impact on people without being too showy, and a bit of personal taste) the lighter and less shiny/sober grey color of the first one in the glass, together with the less distressed fur of the darker one outside the glass, we'll see if I can make mine that way.

My first try I did this morning with pure liquitex medium (without mixing it with any paint, neither diluting it), has proven I'm right: it holds the treatments, darkening a bit, so I bought lite grey dye, not risking to have it too dark and letting room for eventually buying the other PU darker grey dye they have, doing the contrary wouldn't probably work anymore since it's a definitive paint for also synthetics but not too much covering (but putting a darker and then a lighter if failed, would be a harder point to go back from), so that I will keep my greenish/bluyish dark grey as a background; test looks nice, if you try with little water, he rejects it except putting it under the tap, so perfect, but I want a less darkening and more of a satin aspect without turning back too shiny, at this point I'm looking to border perfection, at least for what I have in my mind, we'll see in about a month how it will look here in pic, I'll be fair in highlighting any other fail or inconsistency with reality. Time will be needed, much work to do under many aspect (also lining, fur, drying time, washing tests etc).
It should take 10 days for me just to have new PU dye, new medium, and enough quantity, coming from England.

 

[Mechanismo]

Btw.., why wouldn't I be able to wash it again..?? I don't get it.. so you just mean I would have to rewax it right..? Not bc it would wreck the coat.. or my washer.., right? If that's the case, yeah, no big deal.. i wouldn't be washing it like that anyway.. and if something happened it to.. guess I'd just have to wash n re-wax it..

Just as CountLau says, once you wax a cotton coat, that's it, it can never be machine washed again. Check out the video, it's comprensive.