Best Cap shield replicas?

I agree too. That's one of the reasons that I liked the Shield Labs version. It appears to be one solid piece of spun aluminum and machined. Relicmakers version looks perfect with the exception of the star being attached to the surface.

I ordered one of these and it arrived really scratched up, although it had a lot of benefits. I am still waiting for the replacement and am starting to wonder if its coming. The shield does looks great from the front though, and is very light. The star area is a machined disk it looked like, that was glued on afterward.

From an accuracy stand point though, it is missing the groved circles on the back of the shield and the edge is thin, plus it is missing the back ring around the shield.

Of the 4 shields I have purchased (King Arts, Cattoys ABS, CapShield Central (I posted a detailed review on this one, ShieldLabs) the most accurate is definitely King Arts, which does have the groved in star, the back circles etc., but I feel like it displays a little on the dull side because the metal parts are not very shiny and and the paint is a little flat. I had the same issue with their Mjolnir when it arrived, but I polished that with Steel wool until it looked awesome. I am too nervous to do that with the shield, lol.

As far as looking more movie "used" at least from the front, I think the paint and grooving from Shield Labs looked great minus the imperfections and scratches that had to be fixed.
 
Here are pics of my King Arts shield if anyone hasnt seen many.

Honestly my biggest annoyance with Cap shields in general is the fact that the star alignment, even in the movies, is TOTALLY inconsistent. On most statues and Hot Toys pieces, and in the Winter Soldier elevator fight scene, one star point is centered directly in the middle of the forearm bracket (the one closest to the center). Yet so many people make them with the star leaning 10 to 15 degrees left on the forearm bracket based on the original efx prop, which in my opinion is out dated now.

Even King Arts is technically wrong as they have a star point centered on what us really the hand bracket.

To me having it centered on the forearm bracket is ideal as that way it looks the same, pointing up, no matter which arm you are holding the shield with.
 

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I ordered one of these and it arrived really scratched up, although it had a lot of benefits. I am still waiting for the replacement and am starting to wonder if its coming. The shield does looks great from the front though, and is very light. The star area is a machined disk it looked like, that was glued on afterward.

From an accuracy stand point though, it is missing the groved circles on the back of the shield and the edge is thin, plus it is missing the back ring around the shield.

Of the 4 shields I have purchased (King Arts, Cattoys ABS, CapShield Central (I posted a detailed review on this one, ShieldLabs) the most accurate is definitely King Arts, which does have the groved in star, the back circles etc., but I feel like it displays a little on the dull side because the metal parts are not very shiny and and the paint is a little flat. I had the same issue with their Mjolnir when it arrived, but I polished that with Steel wool until it looked awesome. I am too nervous to do that with the shield, lol.

As far as looking more movie "used" at least from the front, I think the paint and grooving from Shield Labs looked great minus the imperfections and scratches that had to be fixed.

I appreciate the information. I agree that the King Arts version looks great, and I was real close to ordering one of those until I saw different pictures of it. In some pictures it looks amazing and others the paint does look off. I hope that I am happy with the Shield Labs version. If not then hopefully Relicmaker will hook us up. lol
 
Here are pictures of the Shield Labs one I received which is currently being replaced.
 

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Here are pictures of the Shield Labs one I received which is currently being replaced.

I honestly thought that the Shield Labs one had the groves in the back. I guess that goes to show that lighting is everything when taking pictures. I knew that the brackets were off and there was no ring around the outer edge, but didn't know about the other things. I appreciate the pics and info. I still think that it looks pretty good from the front.

That sucks about the scratches and such on yours. I hope that he replaces it soon for you. Just FYI it appears that he recently closed his etsy shop in favor of a shopify shop.
 
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I honestly thought that the Shield Labs one had the groves in the back. I guess that goes to show that lighting is everything when taking pictures. I knew that the brakets were off and there was no ring around the outer edge, but didn't know about the other things. I appreciate the pics and info. I still think that it looks pretty good from the front.

That sucks about the scratches and such on yours. I hope that he replaces it soon for you. Just FYI it appears that he recently closed his etsy shop in favor of a shopify shop.

When I ordered it I thought there were grooves too because it looks like it in the pictures they have up, but it is really a trick of the lighting I think.
 
Are those deep scratches in the finish?

Yes. That's why I sent it back and am waiting for a replacement. This is part of my problem with Etsy sellers, since CapShield Central did the same thing, just sent me something plainly damaged.

But to his credit Shield Labs handled it better and agreed to send a replacement. I had to pay return shipping which I was a little annoyed by, but he is throwing in a Winter Soldier prop notebook for free so I felt that was fair enough. I just am still waiting though and haven't had a response to follow up messages the last couple of days even though he was supposedly sending me pictures on Saturday.
 
Dang. I had no idea that this might come together so quickly. I figured that it would be months if ever at all so I ordered a Shield Labs shield yesterday before checking this thread. I would still be interested though.

You're not alone. I ordered an AMS shield about a month ago. Not accurate of course but after years I just wanted something and I gave up on accuracy. If only I had known:confused:. It's a nice clean shield though and it'll be a nice project to work on and eventually gift to a relative or friend if this run happens:). I thought about the shield labs one but I liked the look of a placed-on star so I went with AMS and a Valor star.
 
Here are the CapShieldCentral pictures. As I said, I posted a separate review of this before.

Also arrived with deep scratches on the brackets. There is also a hole in the middle of the while on the back but I guess normally he covers it with a serial number plate.

While he does have the groves, they are actually done wrong as the outer ring is over sized compared to a more uniform sizing in the movies (see comparison picture from Winter Soldier).

It was very pretty though, although maybe almost too shiny compared to the movie, but he wound up refunding me rather than replacing it because he said he was essentially unable to send one that wouldnt have some damage as the brackets he buys come damaged for some reason...
 

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Definitely looks like we have enough interest for a run, probably even more if this moves forward with an official Interest Thread.
This could be a real opportunity here to finally get THE definitive Cap shield.
 
I agree too. That's one of the reasons that I liked the Shield Labs version. It appears to be one solid piece of spun aluminum and machined. Relicmakers version looks perfect with the exception of the star being attached to the surface.

It has an etched star (not machined) and is missing the back details. Like in my original reply- there isn’t a maker than has all the details.
 
Here are pics of my King Arts shield if anyone hasnt seen many.

Honestly my biggest annoyance with Cap shields in general is the fact that the star alignment, even in the movies, is TOTALLY inconsistent. On most statues and Hot Toys pieces, and in the Winter Soldier elevator fight scene, one star point is centered directly in the middle of the forearm bracket (the one closest to the center). Yet so many people make them with the star leaning 10 to 15 degrees left on the forearm bracket based on the original efx prop, which in my opinion is out dated now.

Even King Arts is technically wrong as they have a star point centered on what us really the hand bracket.

To me having it centered on the forearm bracket is ideal as that way it looks the same, pointing up, no matter which arm you are holding the shield with.

I think most of the time the "correct" alignment would be to have the star point with the hand bracket, as seen in any of the shots in Endgame when the shield is being put on, as well as when it breaks it's clear which bracket the star points with. That means King Arts got it right!
 
It has an etched star (not machined) and is missing the back details. Like in my original reply- there isn’t a maker than has all the details.

I'm no expert on machine vs etch work, but I think you are right. The star itself does look etched. I know the back is even more off, but I was having a hard time finding one that was even "good enough" for what I wanted.....that's why I'm hoping that someone like Relicmaker will be able to come through for us. Here's hoping.
 
So that's 9 interested of 10 minimum...And that's before an actual interest thread has begun!
Of course lets not get ahead of ourselves. Personally, I dont think this project should move forward unless it has all the details 100% correct including the star.

The other important detail is the star size.
Relic makers original run was about an inch too big.
25’ Shield has an 9’ or so star ring.
685FDDC2-2F04-4A81-ABB0-E04B3FBFA4B9.jpg
 
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There are going to be a number of details to focus on for this to be a definitive replica.
Firstly, accurately scaled and machined star. There is no point in investing in another replica that needs a sheet metal star glued on.
Second, correct thickness and scale and backside details.

I dont know if Relicmaker offered just blanks or fully finished shields, but my shop can handle a run of these for premium finishing; I can do a TFA finish or the looks used in the later films.
 
There are going to be a number of details to focus on for this to be a definitive replica.
Firstly, accurately scaled and machined star. There is no point in investing in another replica that needs a sheet metal star glued on.
Second, correct thickness and scale and backside details.

I dont know if Relicmaker offered just blanks or fully finished shields, but my shop can handle a run of these for premium finishing; I can do a TFA finish or the looks used in the later films.

I agree 100%.
I think the TFA is the iconic finish- they circled back to this in the civil war shield
His last ones were double the thickness of everyone else’s.
 
I think most of the time the "correct" alignment would be to have the star point with the hand bracket, as seen in any of the shots in Endgame when the shield is being put on, as well as when it breaks it's clear which bracket the star points with. That means King Arts got it right!

But if you watch the Winter Soldier elevator scene where he kicks the shield on to his arm and then the positioning of the star the way after, it is straight up with the forearm bracket. I personally think it makes the most sense for the star to point upward when he is standing straight, no matter which arm he holds it in.
 
The other important detail is the star size.
Relic makers original run was about an inch too big.
25’ Shield has an 8’ or so star ring.
View attachment 1026588

I don't think 8 inches is accurate. It's like 8 3/4 on the King Arts 24 inch shield, and if I am being honest, it is a bit on the small side, where as the Marvel Legends one completely screwed it up and went way too big. I actually did a measurement using pixels on a dead on shot from the Marvel Masterwork prop, and it appears that the diameter of the blue/star area should be almost exactly 38-39% of the overall shield diameter.

Though in my OCD head, I would think it would make more sense if it was 40% and each ring (counting both sides of it) was 20% for a more precise balance.
 
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