The Y-Wing "Green Leader" Project - NOW OPEN SOURCE!

[maxhebus]

Seeing how much I struggle with few donnor parts, I wish you the best for this deadline. :thumbsup

PS: did you have time to look at the models I've sent you?

Well I've got a deadline now... the 2017 RPF So Cal Prop Party is April 15... gotta have my Y finished by then! :eek

 

[bwayne64]

Joe,

Also try just scaling by a factor of 10's, 100, 1000, etc...
Often going in/out of Lightwave especially from OBJ this is the fix.
I've rarely needed to scale 25.4 or so as internally LW works in metric and just displays the numbers as Imperial.

L

Thanks man ! What I did on the Y wing fuse is look at the object dimensions in Cura and Slic3r and one was in mm and one was in inches. But they were the same numerically, if that makes any sense. I just entered an absolute scale value in Lightwave to those units. I guess I'll know for sure it worked, when I'm able to print it. I'm just hoping that when I output an object I build in Lightwave that it is accurate to what I intended. I guess I'll know when I send it to the slicer. Oh well, won't have a 3d printer for a while so, right now it's just academic ;-) Cheers,

Joe

 

[bwayne64]

I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldn't find it. How much is cut off the front engine Legg's eggs. And is this cut off used on the back of the engine as the shroud. I suspect there are two seperate cuts, one for the front, one for the back. But not sure, cheers,

Joe

 

[DaveG]

Nibbling away, making progress... slowly. Finished out the rear plate for the main fuselage. I changed up a few of the smaller detail parts based on what I had available and changed the trim on the rectangular vents to keep them whole. It just looks better to me this way!

Assembled the nose canons from K&S brass tubing.

And put together the components for the engine nozzles. I turned a custom engine core out of acrylic and added some extra details to make unique.

 

[3phase]

Totally agree about the vents, great work.

 

[CyberGolem]

Stunning, as usual.

 

[DaveG]

NECK SECTION FILES UPDATED!!!

I have remodeled and updated the files for the neck section of the fuselage based on best fit to the kit parts I had available. The Rhino and STL files are located here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/0BwDa06cjX-frLVZzOVhMcGJlcjQ

I do not guarantee that these parts are 100% accurate but they are pretty darned close. The neck section increased in length only slightly, 1/8". For those of you that have the main aluminum U channel spar from the first run of armatures (any sent out in 2016) you will need to file out the two holes in the front that are used to attach the forward fuselage into slots, allowing the forward fuselage to be slid forward 1/8".

 

[maxhebus]

Nice.
Thanks.
Any luck with your jig rings to align and hole the Tee struts? You think you'll share it?
Did you have time to go through the model I've sent you?

Best
S

 

[DaveG]

Any luck with your jig rings to align and hole the Tee struts? You think you'll share it?

I will share it, but not until I've worked it out. It doesn't work quite right yet. Also it will probably be laser cut from illustration board not 3d printed. Basically the jig will get locked in during the assembly process and need to be cut out, disposable. Cardboard is better for that. Yes, it would be possible to make a sectional jig that could be disassembled and removed but that's too much work for something I only need to use once.

 

[DaveG]

Got in some 3D printed parts from Shapeways, printed in Extreme Detail Plastic. They came out pretty nice.

The yolk parts from the Harrow is too thin to print, instead I made the part out of 1/32 brass rod, soldering the little stub piece in the middle and adding a little disc of styrene rod to the top.

Assembled and primed.

Here are the 3D printed stirrup pipes for the rear end.

 

[kokkari]

Nice work on the Harrow tail section! I thought about using brass rod also but splurged for the extra kit out of laziness. I noticed that you had the rear stirrup pipes on your Shapeways shop, but are now gone. Any chance you are going to put those back up? I like them much better than what I've turned out.

 

[DaveG]

Thanks! I mainly made the Harrow part out of brass for strength, although the entire control vanes assembly is still pretty fragile.

Yes, the stirrup pipes will go back up on both the repository and my Shapeways shop in a bit. I pulled them down until I was sure the printed parts fit.

 

[8 perf]

All of this is looking VERY awesome! Wish I had enough room to display another model this big. She who must be obeyed would take issue I think.

 

[DaveG]

For anyone out there planning to use my 3D printed parts from Shapeways... the mating slots where the two control vanes go together will need to be opened up just a tiny bit. If you try to force the parts together as printed they may split. Likewise the little square holes for the ring will need to be opened up a tiny amount. The parts were designed this way to ensure a good square assembly as the tolerances on 3D printed parts can vary from print to print and machine to machine.

If you look closely at the ring you'll see a thinner area where the shape steps down. This should be trimmed out (it's NOT the section that goes in the square hole in the vane). The two halves then assemble from either side of the vertical control vane with the seam covered in the hole.

The best way to assemble the control vanes is to dry fit the parts together first and then apply a tiny drop of water thin super glue to the joint, don't try to put glue on the parts and then slide together. I also wet sanded the flat surfaces very gently with 320 grit sandpaper before assembly to help get rid of the printed build lines. I'll do a little more wet sanding now that the parts are primed.

 

[joberg]

Wow Dave; those vanes assembly are the bomb:cool

 

[DaveG]

It's a dreary, cold, rainy Sunday here in Los Angeles so instead of working in my (unheated) shop I've been 3D modeling in the comfort of my (heated) office. Finally got around to working up the Nacelle Clips for the front of the engines.

 

[Scott Graham]

Looking good Dave. I can tell you've studied the parts well.

 

[DaveG]

Yes, after staring at photos of the parts for the better part of a day I discovered several things that I hadn't realized before - the bottom of the tank box has been sanded flat, the centerlines of the struts are not parallel, they taper in towards the front, and the full length of the struts has not been used, they'd been shortened a little.

 

[DaveG]

I am looking into the feasibility of having a run of several hundred of the Nacelle Clips done in Hong Kong. Stay tuned.

 

[maxhebus]

Hehehe.... :love
I'll stay tuned. It's so hard to find a Bandai 1/24 BF 109 adding to that the mystery part.

I am looking into the feasibility of having a run of several hundred of the Nacelle Clips done in Hong Kong. Stay tuned.