Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Just as a follow up, the collar's short edges do not appear to have much in the way of piping or piping effect:
Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
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Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
So, these two pics give the impression of perhaps having some of that the malleable piping you mention, but it's really hard to to say. It could simply be the way the coat rests on the wearer. One thing is for sure, the coat's construction has heft and weight to it.
johncarbon1991
Active Member
So like this? Essentially no piping along the side of the collar that folds down or the belt buckle edge? My tailor is doing the collar today so want to be as sure as I can be here.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
It appears that way, but again, bear in mind that it may be a piping effect. What I mean by that (and Egon mentioned this some time ago) the way the fabric presses/squeezes together between two narrow parallel lines of heavy-duty stitching could give that effect also. Having said that, in this picture of the lapel, there appears to be clear piping starting at the edge:
The shoulder panels appear to have piping as well. With the collar edge, however, it's a little trickier. That edge definitely has a lip, but what is it exactly? Maybe Jameel Ur could weigh in here as well.
Hello friends,
There is no piping in collar, lapel and shoulder panels.
Shoulder panels have thick foam/ padding that usually use in jackets and coat as shoulder pads.
Second, under the the shoulder panels has body fabric, so now there are four layers in shoulder panel.
1. body fabric layer.
2. 10 mm thick foam layer, that makes piping look. ( I'm using 10mm might be possible others using more thick or thin).
3. Shoulder panel fabric layer.
4. Shoulder edge fold layer.
Now let's discuss about lapel and front edges.
There is no solid avoidance about piping or puffy look on collar and lapel.
Could be designer put foam or something inside front final stitching to make same look as shoulder panels.
So, we put foam in front final stitching to make sure front and shoulder stitching look same.
As Egon mentioned and I also wrote somewhere, fabric seam allowance can give puffy look too.
There is no piping in collar, lapel and shoulder panels.
Shoulder panels have thick foam/ padding that usually use in jackets and coat as shoulder pads.
Second, under the the shoulder panels has body fabric, so now there are four layers in shoulder panel.
1. body fabric layer.
2. 10 mm thick foam layer, that makes piping look. ( I'm using 10mm might be possible others using more thick or thin).
3. Shoulder panel fabric layer.
4. Shoulder edge fold layer.
Now let's discuss about lapel and front edges.
There is no solid avoidance about piping or puffy look on collar and lapel.
Could be designer put foam or something inside front final stitching to make same look as shoulder panels.
So, we put foam in front final stitching to make sure front and shoulder stitching look same.
As Egon mentioned and I also wrote somewhere, fabric seam allowance can give puffy look too.
In the last, as I wrote early in this thread, how we can develop a single with different details.
There are different coat that has different shape, different design details and different fabric.
Take a look at their shoulder panel shape, are those same?
There are different coat that has different shape, different design details and different fabric.
Take a look at their shoulder panel shape, are those same?
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Whatever works, Jameel!
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
You're right! It looks as if the shearling itself is tucked in, extending all the way to the lapel edge, running underneath the cotton fabric edges. Nice catch!!
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Hey Jameel,
I hear you and I discussed this very same issue here a little while back. In it, I point out how Zlurpo's fabric is a very close match to this particular prop display's texture, thickness and appearance (the prop display coat on the right). This coat has the obvious wear, tear and dust that suggests it is indeed a screen used coat, perhaps for many of the stunt scenes. It's possible that because of this, a lot of the lamination was worn off (or wasn't heavily laminated to begin with). In any case, it's a good indicator of what the coat should look like without much lamination on it. And to that end, congrats because I think you guys have a close match in that department. But having said that, most of the film and production stills feature a more 'hero' coat with that leather-type lamination and heavy color grating which makes in the more desirable option for most people.
johncarbon1991
Active Member
So I'll give my thoughts on this. I fully agree with Jameel here--like most film and tv items, I'm under the firm impression that there were multiple coats used for different scenes. I wouldn't at all be surprised if the coats for the scenes with the collar up were different than the coats for the scenes with the collar down. I remember reading a costume designer interview about Jack Harkness' coat on the Torchwood series, years ago, and about how the designers had separate coats made of different fabric for scenes where Barrowman was running vs where he was standing still because the fabric needed to flow differently.
That having been said--we're all trying to approximate something that looks similar to the coat we saw throughout the movie, and can function in a way that a single garment could if K had worn a single coat that existed in real life. Mileage is going to vary for people, and what bothers some people in terms of details added or removed won't bother others. With the soul revolver coat, foam really doesn't work to puff out certain areas because of how narrow the seams are. My tailor had to open them up and restitch them wider to physically allow material to be inserted there. In my case, we're using piping.
For me, personally, the piping was an essential, especially on the shoulders. I don't know how visible it is in every scene of the movie, but it's certainly visible when K is sitting in the rain eating noodles, and it's definitely visible on the coat that was displayed at the museum expo. For me, the shoulder piping looks really sharp, and adds this nice distinctive silhouette to the overall coat appearance. Combined with the padding, it's really signature for me, maybe even moreso than the collar position. But that's a detail that matters to me. Other people may not care about it.
I think the fabric finish is going to matter more to most people. I don't know if the soul revolver fabric is accurate. Even the color is a debate here, regarding what appeared on screen vs what was worn on set. This is the old argument of Captain Kirk's tunic, and whether it was yellow or green (for those of you unfamiliar with this, take a google search for fun internet arguments on color grading). What I will say is that the laminated appearance is what the coat looks like on screen in more scenes than not. It's how most people remember K's look, and so for most getting that right is the essential detail.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Well, said johncarbon1991. Totally agree.
Dear johncarbon1991: I described about piping in back pages, again posing the image that looks piping but this is just lux foam.
We don't have the laminated fabric in dark green color but yes, in black color is available in small quantity that looks similar movie coat.
However, I'll develop a couple new coats in April with black laminated fabric and dark waxed fabric that I found recently.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Looks fantastic, Jameel.
I think this looks great, Jameel!
Throughout this conversation, I kept thinking that the piping on K's coat was more subtle than the type of piping that I've seen on other garments. Because of this, I was worried that adding "real" piping to the replicas would look exaggerated or overly-rounded compared to the movie coat.
The slight puff you've achieved by stitching over the foam...to my eyes, this is the perfect mid-point between a regular flat stitch and traditional piping.
johncarbon1991
Active Member
Well, my pockets are now significantly lighter (don't ask how much, and don't tell my family) and my spirits immensely higher. I'd like to take a moment to thank/blame everyone in this thread, but especially Shahrooz and Mechanismo . Here's my Soul Revolver coat. This was done by lamoda custom tailor over in Kew Gardens in New York.
A few notes:
-Piping was added around the lapels, top collar edges and shoulders
-shoulder padding was added
-the collar was shifted
-all the shearling was replaced using the uniqlo coat recommended earlier in the thread
-magnet enclosures were added using the same stock magnets SR used for their collar. An additional one was added on the bottom of the collar to help it clip into place
-a stiffener was added to the collar, and you can see now the way the shearling gets that nice, natural crease in it along the left shoulder that a ton of the film stills show. It was definitely needed.
-I still need to distress/blackwash the shearling, as well as comb it. That will happen, just a matter of when, given that I picked this up just in time for summer in NY it seems.
-Yes, you can see some of the former seam lines where the piping was added. Unfortunately this was necessary as the seams had to be widened to accommodate adding the piping by hand. There are machines that may be able to accomplish this without widening the stitches, and I know it may immensely bother some people, but I'm attempting to put my neuroticism over getting this jacket 100% right to rest (at least for now). There is no good way to patch/soften the stitch holes due to the nature of the material, although I'm hoping time and wear will help. In the interim, we'll chalk it up to the coat being "weathered"
-The shoulders were padded and piped, and while some may disagree on how accurate it is, it looks right to me based on what we've seen and I personally love the silhouette it produces. I simply feel cooler walking down the street wearing the coat with these shoulders done this way
All in all, I'm a very happy camper.
Also, just for reference, the sweater IS an aster. It's actually navy blue and not the black one. I mistakenly purchased it in the wrong colorway, but for the $33 usd it ran me on Mercari, I can only be so distraught. If you can find one in navy blue, it makes a nice substitute for the black one IMHO, especially if you're trying to channel K's overall style rather than being exact.
Anyway. I'm tired now.
A few notes:
-Piping was added around the lapels, top collar edges and shoulders
-shoulder padding was added
-the collar was shifted
-all the shearling was replaced using the uniqlo coat recommended earlier in the thread
-magnet enclosures were added using the same stock magnets SR used for their collar. An additional one was added on the bottom of the collar to help it clip into place
-a stiffener was added to the collar, and you can see now the way the shearling gets that nice, natural crease in it along the left shoulder that a ton of the film stills show. It was definitely needed.
-I still need to distress/blackwash the shearling, as well as comb it. That will happen, just a matter of when, given that I picked this up just in time for summer in NY it seems.
-Yes, you can see some of the former seam lines where the piping was added. Unfortunately this was necessary as the seams had to be widened to accommodate adding the piping by hand. There are machines that may be able to accomplish this without widening the stitches, and I know it may immensely bother some people, but I'm attempting to put my neuroticism over getting this jacket 100% right to rest (at least for now). There is no good way to patch/soften the stitch holes due to the nature of the material, although I'm hoping time and wear will help. In the interim, we'll chalk it up to the coat being "weathered"
-The shoulders were padded and piped, and while some may disagree on how accurate it is, it looks right to me based on what we've seen and I personally love the silhouette it produces. I simply feel cooler walking down the street wearing the coat with these shoulders done this way
All in all, I'm a very happy camper.
Also, just for reference, the sweater IS an aster. It's actually navy blue and not the black one. I mistakenly purchased it in the wrong colorway, but for the $33 usd it ran me on Mercari, I can only be so distraught. If you can find one in navy blue, it makes a nice substitute for the black one IMHO, especially if you're trying to channel K's overall style rather than being exact.
Anyway. I'm tired now.
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