Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

[sonofather]

Hi everybody!
We usually discuss 2049 props and clothing and in this thread mainly Officer K's coat and how close to the film's coat you can make your own with various modifications.

But we rarely talk about the physique required to fill the coat in the best possible way that Gosling does. Because in addition to a nice coat that also fits you and your bodytype well, you have come a long way just there, but if we are to be honest with ourselves, a trained body would have lifted the whole thing to a completely different level. So I ask you, if we may speculate a little, what do you think Mr. Gosling's height, weight and various body measurements as well as the size of his jacket are? Is there anyone here who is also trying to achieve that aspect?

 

[CountLau]

Hi everybody!
We usually discuss 2049 props and clothing and in this thread mainly Officer K's coat and how close to the film's coat you can make your own with various modifications.

But we rarely talk about the physique required to fill the coat in the best possible way that Gosling does. Because in addition to a nice coat that also fits you and your bodytype well, you have come a long way just there, but if we are to be honest with ourselves, a trained body would have lifted the whole thing to a completely different level. So I ask you, if we may speculate a little, what do you think Mr. Gosling's height, weight and various body measurements as well as the size of his jacket are? Is there anyone here who is also trying to achieve that aspect?

Ryan Gosling Height, Weight, Age, Biography, Wife & More » StarsUnfolded

Some Lesser Known Facts About Ryan Gosling Does Ryan Gosling smoke?: Yes (quit after filming "The Nice Guys"). Does Ryan Gosling drink alcohol?: Yes When

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but I think that's how he looks on average...in the movie, he could about 80kg who knows, with those swollen iron-pumped arms, as well in Barbie.

I honestly won't aim to that, I'm pretty happy with my body shape at today (even if, after a covid multiple hospitalition in 2022, and regained muscles when after a year I was able to train again, I put aside like forever my first k coat I made by myself in the recovering period, since from my 68kg when out of the hospital, I got back to my usual 75-78kg), anyway, I believe our SR is pretty snug and especially to the arms / armpits, it gaves a great fit, very gorgeous, but that coated cotton is tough and rigid, so I really hope not to get more sized up again (it wouldn't be not even healthy for me, not even with muscles, I'have only one fully working kidney and mesomorph base body type). I don't believe that Gosling body from the movie, bbuilded like this, will fit comfortably a non-customizable SR...

When about 25ys ago I was in my 20s, I was a bb addicted, with age I refined my body composition doing my daily activities (sometimes hard jobs, training in various sports etc) and the weight is even more (bone density?), but when I was focused on bb at that age, I think with that swollen chest I had, I won't be able to enter on my current SR

 

[Mechanismo]

I exposed my methods thinking about Cameron to try in his own, so that if he'll do it right, he can have a result like mine which I believe is pretty decent, of course a pro tailor can do that stuff, but he needs to be also paid, and as many of us could agree, not everybody would be able to understand what we have in our mind for our garments, by remote tailoring that's a risk for sure, but it can happen also explaning you goal to a tailor in person, which can be skilled, but always with a limited understanding and never sure the final result will match your expectation until you get it back and at least figure out once he's worthing your trust...that's my experience.
I believe and agree with you about your local guy, he eventually takes ages but it seems you can trust him, but I think that's not a guarantee for every tailor we can get in contact with...

However, if any skilled tailor would like to chime in and expose proper methods for that, it'd be useful for everybody

Definitely. In my experience, for example, in terms of the (accurate) way the original BEP/ELS shearling is attached/stitched, it was simply a matter of telling the tailor "attach it the same way." Needless to say, providing the tailor detailed photos of the original coat and its construction also goes a long way. In any case, I do not suggest trying to do it on your own. Getting a good tailor to do it with the right sewing machines is critical. And even if it's an added expense, it's definitely worth it IMO.

 

[Cameron1138]

Got my Soul Revolver coat in. Mostly good but a bit of a mixed bag. The quality is great, the fabric is perfect and I don't mind the shearling so much in person either.

But I want your critiques on the fit, does this look close enough that it could work well on me with slight tailoring? Or should I sell it and go ahead with my original plan to make one (if I'm able to find good enough fabric)? It's a size M and I normally wear S or sometimes even XS, but going by measurements provided by the seller and his recommendations based on my weight and measurements and knowing that SR jackets tend to fit pretty slim, I figured I'd take the risk on it. The length in the body is perfect, I was worried it'd be too short and I think S probably would've been. The sleeves are tad longer than they should be but not too much. I think the width of the chest and waist are fine, I don't want them to be too tight so there's room for the holster and blaster underneath. The shoulders are maybe a tad wider than I'd prefer but not too bad, and adding shoulder pads (not much, just half a inch or so) will help a lot (I already tried trying it on with pads underneath and it was a big improvement. Brought the sleeves down to a more accurate length as well).

There are two main issues with the fit for me. First is the collar. I'm worried it might be a little too large around for me, making it too loose when up. If I have my head angled down a little bit (which I tend to do subconsciously anyway when I'm cold and wearing anything with a high collar) it covers the base of my nose the way it should, but it's loose and low enough that if I aim my head straight forward my nose sticks out. There's also a lot of extra material around it, even when buckled with the tightest hole.

Looking at this picture here the collar doesn't look quite as tight around his face as I'd remembered, and his neck looks like it might be angled slightly down as well, so maybe the collar fits me better than I initially thought, but I'd still like other opinions on it:

The other issue is the shoulders in the back. While the chest width armpit to armpit and the shoulder width across the top seem alright to me, there's an excess of material right at the back of the shoulder that bunches up when my arms are down at my sides. Additionally, the upper sleeves are too wide. I wasn't able to get a great picture of it but you can get an idea here:

Now I understand pretty much any jacket that's not so tight as to severely restrict arm movement is going to have a little bit of that, and it looks like there is a slight bit of that going on on Gosling's coat from how the fabric is folding right behind the armholes here, but not nearly as severely:

Based on my 12 years of sewing experience, it seems to me like it SHOULD be possible to solve this by opening up the jacket, undoing the seams highlighted in red here and that portion of the armhole, and restitching both those seams to bring it in by about an inch or so. Not super easy, but definitely doable. But everything I find on Google says it's not going to be possible. Tailors can take in those seams individually to slim down either the sleeves or the body, and it seems like you should be able to take them both in by the same amount to slim it down in both places, but I can't find anything saying that's something you can do.

Should that be doable or am I way overestimating myself here?

Other than those, it definitely needs magnets in order to be very practical as an actual coat. The hook and eye comes undone way too easily, as others have said. I don't care about matching SR's magnets exactly as long as they're close enough in size and shape. In addition to adding a few along the front, I'm thinking of adding a fourth one on the last corner of the collar here to help it keep a more accurate folded shape when I'm wearing it down:

I just want to make sure, and this is probably a silly question, but is there any risk these magnets could damage my phone if it gets too close? Google indicates no, but I want to be sure. The magnets on the front would be going right over the chest pocket and I can try to avoid putting my phone in that one, but I can't guarantee I won't forget and put it in there by mistake.

Lastly, a pleasant surprise that will make this easier to modify than I'd expected: The edges of the lapels and collar don't appear to be sewn together except by the topstitching, there's no third row right along the edge of the seam, which means it should be pretty simple to open it up along those edges, do what I need to do inside, and close it back up just be redoing the topstitching, all while retaining the original construction of the coat. If I decide to replace the fur, I could do that at this point too, but I'm honestly not sure if I will. I might also add some pieces of interfacing or buckram for the lapels to help them fold where I want so they aren't folding all the way down to the waist seams like they tend to want to do.

 

[CountLau]

Got my Soul Revolver coat in. Mostly good but a bit of a mixed bag. The quality is great, the fabric is perfect and I don't mind the shearling so much in person either.

But I want your critiques on the fit, does this look close enough that it could work well on me with slight tailoring? Or should I sell it and go ahead with my original plan to make one (if I'm able to find good enough fabric)? It's a size M and I normally wear S or sometimes even XS, but going by measurements provided by the seller and his recommendations based on my weight and measurements and knowing that SR jackets tend to fit pretty slim, I figured I'd take the risk on it. The length in the body is perfect, I was worried it'd be too short and I think S probably would've been. The sleeves are tad longer than they should be but not too much. I think the width of the chest and waist are fine, I don't want them to be too tight so there's room for the holster and blaster underneath. The shoulders are maybe a tad wider than I'd prefer but not too bad, and adding shoulder pads (not much, just half a inch or so) will help a lot (I already tried trying it on with pads underneath and it was a big improvement. Brought the sleeves down to a more accurate length as well).
View attachment 1918427View attachment 1918426
There are two main issues with the fit for me. First is the collar. I'm worried it might be a little too large around for me, making it too loose when up. If I have my head angled down a little bit (which I tend to do subconsciously anyway when I'm cold and wearing anything with a high collar) it covers the base of my nose the way it should, but it's loose and low enough that if I aim my head straight forward my nose sticks out. There's also a lot of extra material around it, even when buckled with the tightest hole.
View attachment 1918425View attachment 1918423View attachment 1918424
Looking at this picture here the collar doesn't look quite as tight around his face as I'd remembered, and his neck looks like it might be angled slightly down as well, so maybe the collar fits me better than I initially thought, but I'd still like other opinions on it:

The other issue is the shoulders in the back. While the chest width armpit to armpit and the shoulder width across the top seem alright to me, there's an excess of material right at the back of the shoulder that bunches up when my arms are down at my sides. Additionally, the upper sleeves are too wide. I wasn't able to get a great picture of it but you can get an idea here:
View attachment 1918422View attachment 1918421
Now I understand pretty much any jacket that's not so tight as to severely restrict arm movement is going to have a little bit of that, and it looks like there is a slight bit of that going on on Gosling's coat from how the fabric is folding right behind the armholes here, but not nearly as severely:

Based on my 12 years of sewing experience, it seems to me like it SHOULD be possible to solve this by opening up the jacket, undoing the seams highlighted in red here and that portion of the armhole, and restitching both those seams to bring it in by about an inch or so. Not super easy, but definitely doable. But everything I find on Google says it's not going to be possible. Tailors can take in those seams individually to slim down either the sleeves or the body, and it seems like you should be able to take them both in by the same amount to slim it down in both places, but I can't find anything saying that's something you can do.
View attachment 1918418
Should that be doable or am I way overestimating myself here?

Other than those, it definitely needs magnets in order to be very practical as an actual coat. The hook and eye comes undone way too easily, as others have said. I don't care about matching SR's magnets exactly as long as they're close enough in size and shape. In addition to adding a few along the front, I'm thinking of adding a fourth one on the last corner of the collar here to help it keep a more accurate folded shape when I'm wearing it down:
View attachment 1918419
I just want to make sure, and this is probably a silly question, but is there any risk these magnets could damage my phone if it gets too close? Google indicates no, but I want to be sure. The magnets on the front would be going right over the chest pocket and I can try to avoid putting my phone in that one, but I can't guarantee I won't forget and put it in there by mistake.

Lastly, a pleasant surprise that will make this easier to modify than I'd expected: The edges of the lapels and collar don't appear to be sewn together except by the topstitching, there's no third row right along the edge of the seam, which means it should be pretty simple to open it up along those edges, do what I need to do inside, and close it back up just be redoing the topstitching, all while retaining the original construction of the coat. If I decide to replace the fur, I could do that at this point too, but I'm honestly not sure if I will. I might also add some pieces of interfacing or buckram for the lapels to help them fold where I want so they aren't folding all the way down to the waist seams like they tend to want to do.
View attachment 1918420

Looks great.
If you're feeling confident with your skills and you've the experience you write, in your shoes I would go for the tweaks you plan, I don't know if I'd be confident with mine enough to fix that parts around the shoulder scapular area, I find it quite complex for me, and when I did my selfmade one, I found better starting from the scratch than many other tweaks I went for on my BEP, which is the one I twisted more of my current two k coats. But that's the way to go for it, or I would have askd to a trustable tailor to do that, definitely not sell the coat to have another one not being sure of having the same great fabric.

If you'll go for that, I'd consider crucial to re-shape a bit the pattern of lapels and collar as I did, since I believe the proper shape to wear the coat having it similar to the movie patterns for real, and without having to handle the shapes every time, having it always ready when you close it and when you open it in the typical aspect of the movie, it badly needs that modification.
I also corrected the bottom, it should be like the last Jameel's updated replica (the edge should be the same as the longitudinal one).
Buckram on the lapel for the proper shape, yes, it's exactly what I aso did on my BEP, all that stuff is crucial, there's a long journey waiting for you, but it'd be worth it.

It seems you also managed to have one not too tight and not even too large, in your shoes I definitely won't sell it, that was the starting point I ever desire (and I'm fine anyway, but not exactly what I had and what I managed to eventually have)...hate tightness, always. From a tight garment, you cannot go anywhere else, not that much at least.

Glad to hear I'm not the only heretic to figure out that the original shearling is great, even if not SA, but nothing about to be actually "carpet-like" or crappy, it's true the opposite, and I started replacing it in a while when I received the coat, and with a pretty decent faux one that I worn for months, before reconsidering the original one and put it back, I think I know well what I did and why.

About the magnets...no, I replaced'em all and added many, many others, also for the open position as Adam S. did, about the eyelet in easier, you could just take pliers and shape the hook making it a bit in a S-form, mine now is working so nicely, that I forgot about finding any other closing visible method (since I regularly use the coat also in winter riding bikes, I just added a thin faux leather detachable inner shield closing by zipper, to protect me from airflows and extreme cold in those cases, not visible from outside when mounted, neither when open)

 

[Cameron1138]

Looks great.
If you're feeling confident with your skills and you've the experience you write, in your shoes I would go for the tweaks you plan, I don't know if I'd be confident with mine enough to fix that parts around the shoulder scapular area, I find it quite complex for me, and when I did my selfmade one, I found better starting from the scratch than many other tweaks I went for on my BEP, which is the one I twisted more of my current two k coats. But that's the way to go for it, or I would have askd to a trustable tailor to do that, definitely not sell the coat to have another one not being sure of having the same great fabric.

If you'll go for that, I'd consider crucial to re-shape a bit the pattern of lapels and collar as I did, since I believe the proper shape to wear the coat having it similar to the movie patterns for real, and without having to handle the shapes every time, having it always ready when you close it and when you open it in the typical aspect of the movie, it badly needs that modification.
I also corrected the bottom, it should be like the last Jameel's updated replica (the edge should be the same as the longitudinal one).
Buckram on the lapel for the proper shape, yes, it's exactly what I aso did on my BEP, all that stuff is crucial, there's a long journey waiting for you, but it'd be worth it.

It seems you also managed to have one not too tight and not even too large, in your shoes I definitely won't sell it, that was the starting point I ever desire (and I'm fine anyway, but not exactly what I had and what I managed to eventually have)...hate tightness, always. From a tight garment, you cannot go anywhere else, not that much at least.

Glad to hear I'm not the only heretic to figure out that the original shearling is great, even if not SA, but nothing about to be actually "carpet-like" or crappy, it's true the opposite, and I started replacing it in a while when I received the coat, and with a pretty decent faux one that I worn for months, before reconsidering the original one and put it back, I think I know well what I did and why.

About the magnets...no, I replaced'em all and added many, many others, also for the open position as Adam S. did, about the eyelet in easier, you could just take pliers and shape the hook making it a bit in a S-form, mine now is working so nicely, that I forgot about finding any other closing visible method (since I regularly use the coat also in winter riding bikes, I just added a thin faux leather detachable inner shield closing by zipper, to protect me from airflows and extreme cold in those cases, not visible from outside when mounted, neither when open)

I feel confident about tailoring the sleeves and back, that actually sounds like it will be the easiest of any of these modifications (other than adding the shoulder pads anyway). I'm actually more nervous about adding the magnets (I want to avoid any pinholes in the fabric other than ones placed exactly where I will be stitching since they will probably be permanent like they are on leather due to the coating, so I'not sure how I'll get them placed accurately so that both sides line up with each other) and about potentially replacing the shearling (mainly about making sure the new pieces I cut are exactly the right size and shape, because due to how thick the shearling on the coat is it will be harder than normal to copy a pattern for those pieces). If I only wanted this as a regular daily coat and wasn't as concerned with accuracy, I wouldn't even be considering replacing the shearling, but since I want it for cosplay too I still think it would be nice. I wasn't able to find any product listings for the replacement shearling fabrics mentioned years earlier in the thread so I don't know if I'll be able to find something with the right texture or not.

I definitely don't feel confident about reshaping the edges of the collar or lapels, I think anything I could try would probably make it worse. That's the kind of modification that really makes me nervous. When you mention reshaping the collar, do you mean purely to make it more accurate when it's down, or do you think mine looks too large on me when it's up?

If I were to make one from scratch I would probably use dark green waxed cotton oilskin like this one in Sage Green, which I think actually looks closer to the coats as seen in many neutrally lit photos like the prop auction or costume displays and sounds closer to how Adam Savage describes the color in his videos, but the color of the SR is just more interesting and definitely closer to how the coat usually looks on screen in the film. If I make it from scratch, I could make the pattern more accurate and it will be easier to use a closer faux shearling without having to worry about replacing what's already there. I expect the wax coating will prevent paint from sticking or properly curing though, so I doubt I'd be able to include the lettering on the back. I could also use a more accurate lining fabric (the diamond quilting on the real props is parallelogram-shaped rather than perfect squares) but that's hardly a deciding factor haha.

 

[CountLau]

I didn't make pinholes for the magnets, I simply incapsulated them in strong pieces of fabric, then sewed them to the back of the fur (mine, it held perfectly, the faux one as well as the real shearling), and to strips of buckram I added on the longitudinal edges and waistline doublestitched seamlines, this helped to also support the fabric where the hook and the eyelet are placed.

If you are going to replace a fur with a faux one (more SA) you could just cut it a bit more of the size of the original shearling after you removed it (the same I did when I went for the same job), and then refine the fit by wearing it in several tries after fixed it to the frame and before resewing the lining when time to finish the job.

Since you are in the US, I guess the faux fur I suggested, might be too expensive to have in ur country (it's from Italy, Panini Tessuti), maybe you better search a bit more, avoiding expensive shipping and duties for such a fabric which should be cheap.

About the coating, it's a mess and a risky business, and I think I'm part of the ones who can definitely say to have learnt it the hard way...I don't feel to give more suggestions about that...if you mind to make another one by urself and caring about replicating the letter on the back, I think that's actually dumpy, unexplored territory for DIY approach...don't even figure how to plan it properly...

Yes, I think better consider making anything onto a waxed cloth (intended as waxed with typical wax barbour-like methods), as out of the question, but I can say that if the cloth is waxed for instance, with acrylic as SR is, adding a bit of wax works fine.

What about lapels and collar modifications I suggest, yes it's a bit tricky and I was nervous too...but eventually, I can say I did and the result is appreciated, not only by me but also in person by others, so yes, it'd be worth it. However it's just for those corners, I agree it's not just squared, I consider the final shape I gave to that collar, as kinda trapezoid, not just a rectangle for sure

In the pic below, I try to show how the pattern as I tweaked it, it has now straighter lines than those upright corners of lapels and collar (original SR pattern has the lapels attachment to the shoulder, too far towards the front and so then too low, as Mechanismo correctly pointed out, and it would be impossible to pair them as I do in this pic, since their original upright slightly protruding pointed shape, would make them overlap a little when paired this way).

As wrote before, the attachments of the upper parts of the lapels, I increased them making them closer to the shoulders, and then shortening a bit the size of lapels when finally correcting those corners pattern and straightening them.

I recall also some other pics of mine, you can also look how relevant could be the presence of buckram also to the longitudinal edges, on the collar (with a collar stand in neoprene I added, not needed at all costs but it give a great solidity), and on the lapels, I also put a little vid just shot for the moment, where is possible to understand the time I spend to wear, close and open the coat without having to put it in position or any waste of time for folding the proper shape, it gets almost immediately the right position, and the credit belongs all the work I did putting extra magnets, buckram as you also want to put for supporting the open position of the lapel, and all the other stuff I did, hope it might help and possibly give inspiration, I strongly believe that, to actually be a pragmatic garment, it should be possible to wear it in that simple way, without caring about any extra maneuver to do... Of course it needs time and several tried. I just suggest to start with padding before minding about fur and resizing of back and other.

 

[Cameron1138]

I didn't make pinholes for the magnets, I simply incapsulated them in strong pieces of fabric, then sewed them to the back of the fur (mine, it held perfectly, the faux one as well as the real shearling), and to strips of buckram I added on the longitudinal edges and waistline doublestitched seamlines, this helped to also support the fabric where the hook and the eyelet are placed.

If you are going to replace a fur with a faux one (more SA) you could just cut it a bit more of the size of the original shearling after you removed it (the same I did when I went for the same job), and then refine the fit by wearing it in several tries after fixed it to the frame and before resewing the lining when time to finish the job.

Since you are in the US, I guess the faux fur I suggested, might be too expensive to have in ur country (it's from Italy, Panini Tessuti), maybe you better search a bit more, avoiding expensive shipping and duties for such a fabric which should be cheap.

About the coating, it's a mess and a risky business, and I think I'm part of the ones who can definitely say to have learnt it the hard way...I don't feel to give more suggestions about that...if you mind to make another one by urself and caring about replicating the letter on the back, I think that's actually dumpy, unexplored territory for DIY approach...don't even figure how to plan it properly...

Yes, I think better consider making anything onto a waxed cloth (intended as waxed with typical wax barbour-like methods), as out of the question, but I can say that if the cloth is waxed for instance, with acrylic as SR is, adding a bit of wax works fine.

What about lapels and collar modifications I suggest, yes it's a bit tricky and I was nervous too...but eventually, I can say I did and the result is appreciated, not only by me but also in person by others, so yes, it'd be worth it. However it's just for those corners, I agree it's not just squared, I consider the final shape I gave to that collar, as kinda trapezoid, not just a rectangle for sure

In the pic below, I try to show how the pattern as I tweaked it, it has now straighter lines than those upright corners of lapels and collar (original SR pattern has the lapels attachment to the shoulder, too far towards the front and so then too low, as Mechanismo correctly pointed out, and it would be impossible to pair them as I do in this pic, since their original upright slightly protruding pointed shape, would make them overlap a little when paired this way).

As wrote before, the attachments of the upper parts of the lapels, I increased them making them closer to the shoulders, and then shortening a bit the size of lapels when finally correcting those corners pattern and straightening them.

I recall also some other pics of mine, you can also look how relevant could be the presence of buckram also to the longitudinal edges, on the collar (with a collar stand in neoprene I added, not needed at all costs but it give a great solidity), and on the lapels, I also put a little vid just shot for the moment, where is possible to understand the time I spend to wear, close and open the coat without having to put it in position or any waste of time for folding the proper shape, it gets almost immediately the right position, and the credit belongs all the work I did putting extra magnets, buckram as you also want to put for supporting the open position of the lapel, and all the other stuff I did, hope it might help and possibly give inspiration, I strongly believe that, to actually be a pragmatic garment, it should be possible to wear it in that simple way, without caring about any extra maneuver to do... Of course it needs time and several tried. I just suggest to start with padding before minding about fur and resizing of back and other.

View attachment 1918754

That sounds like a good technique for the magnets, I'd thought about attaching them to the shearling instead but wasn't sure if it'd work as well. Did you add buckram for the entire height of those front panels all the way down to the waist seams, or only to the part of the lapel flaps you want to fold down when the collar isn't up?

I'm thinking the best option for the faux shearling will be finding one of those Uniqlo fleeces, the only others I've found are either the right texture but not a close enough color or are too expensive and ship from outside the US. It feels wrong to spend $40-50+ on faux fur to replicate fabric the costume designer said cost $3 lol.

I'll probably start with the shoulder padding and then tailoring the back and sleeves, because the fit there is the biggest issue for me and if that doesn't work out nothing else matters. Then I'll try replacing the fur (the part I'm dreading the most) and leave adding the magnets and buckram for last.

I'm also considering removing the little strap connecting the collar flap to the lapel, because it seems like once there are magnets to hold the lapel in place it wouldn't be needed and would give more freedom for how the collar sits when it's not up. I see you've kept it on yours though, is that something you wouldn't recommend changing?

 

[CountLau]

That sounds like a good technique for the magnets, I'd thought about attaching them to the shearling instead but wasn't sure if it'd work as well. Did you add buckram for the entire height of those front panels all the way down to the waist seams, or only to the part of the lapel flaps you want to fold down when the collar isn't up?

I'm thinking the best option for the faux shearling will be finding one of those Uniqlo fleeces, the only others I've found are either the right texture but not a close enough color or are too expensive and ship from outside the US. It feels wrong to spend $40-50+ on faux fur to replicate fabric the costume designer said cost $3 lol.

I'll probably start with the shoulder padding and then tailoring the back and sleeves, because the fit there is the biggest issue for me and if that doesn't work out nothing else matters. Then I'll try replacing the fur (the part I'm dreading the most) and leave adding the magnets and buckram for last.

I'm also considering removing the little strap connecting the collar flap to the lapel, because it seems like once there are magnets to hold the lapel in place it wouldn't be needed and would give more freedom for how the collar sits when it's not up. I see you've kept it on yours though, is that something you wouldn't recommend changing?

the buckram I used:
- concerning the lapels, two triangle shaped pieces for the open proper set, one each side, for this I used a thicker type of buckram, or after washing the coat once as I did before adding Otter wax to the coating, the thinner one I used for rest, avoiding adding too much stiffness about how I want the cloth to behave when moving, here it wouldn't be tough enough to last holding that shape I want always set and easy to reach, it's still possible to fold it randomly, but as in my vid, I want the coat to get the shape faster as possible without losing time posing every time, you can notice that especially on the last part when I open it, I didn't commit myself in doing it faster as possible, I swear)
- 2 strips about 1,5" wide sewed to the inner side of the longitudinal edge double stitched seamlines (one each side)
- other 2 strips sewed on the inner side of the waist double stitched seamlines (one each side)
- a piece covering the entire inner surface of the collar (at the base of the neck, I added a half-moon shaped neoprene collar stand)

I agree about uniqlo (I also have a very similar one I used for my first selfmade coat, but it comes in caramel color and not willing to use it anymore for this project, better find something more camel-like or dark camel/tan), it's clear that Mechanismo found a proper middle-way to have enough SA and durability without having to deal with matting on the neck too soon, I saw that the local italian supplier of this one I posted, guaranteed it wil last washing cycles etc but at the moment I don't need it for my BEP, and on my SR I decided to keep the original one I distressed a bit and put back a while ago.

I think it's correct how you planned, but I wanna strongly discourage to completely remove the strap and buckle system, I believe is crucial for practicality, regardless of the strong magnets you can put and/or add as I also did, I will be also nice to see the coat without the strap (it would be so terrificly sci fi), but no, I will let it. Anyway, yes, I moved it to another position after have set all the magnets first. Since my SR is a L size which should fit me regular (L is usually my size for everything) but it has very snug fit instead, I found a little room to do my tweaks on the collar side and corners, I barely got it, so I started putting magnets from the closure on my face (putting those magnets on the very edge of those corners, was mandatory for me of course), so then no magnets at throat (it holds perfectly with no airflows the same, but as I wrote, I also featured that inner removable hidden chest shield, which comes up to protect the throat from air entering between the left side collar-lapel, and that's strictly needed when I ride bikes / motorbikes in winter), then a couple magnets (extremely strong, the strongest couple) for the left lapel's corner-right uper chest match, then a couple more or less in the middle of the chest (slightly towards right, following the oblique streaks that must be to have the proper positioning), and another couple near the hook n eye, then other for the open position (a middle force couple for pinching the left lapel and collar when folded together, another one to match the folded collar corner on the left chest, and another weak couple to just help the right lapel too in holding the open set without being too much rigid (if you move very freely, it can let the lapel also flutter a bit, being casual enough not to look too much of an artifact).
So I used fur, buckram, and seamlines as useful parts to attach magnets to their inner sides, doing the job.
I saw that Jameel incapsulated his magnets into fabric too, but he used a superglue I struggled a lot with when time to move them has come, and he fixed them to the fabric in some cases, and to the fur for the most, it works great, but it was very risky to handle without doing damages and to adjust the size, handling is needed in most of the cases when you have the garment in your hand. With this, I'm not saying pinholes are the way to go (I usually avoid them or minimize the use to the very little possible, they can weaken the fabric and often making visible creases from outside with the weaker clothes in particular).

 

[Cameron1138]

the buckram I used:
- concerning the lapels, two triangle shaped pieces for the open proper set, one each side, for this I used a thicker type of buckram, or after washing the coat once as I did before adding Otter wax to the coating, the thinner one I used for rest, avoiding adding too much stiffness about how I want the cloth to behave when moving, here it wouldn't be tough enough to last holding that shape I want always set and easy to reach, it's still possible to fold it randomly, but as in my vid, I want the coat to get the shape faster as possible without losing time posing every time, you can notice that especially on the last part when I open it, I didn't commit myself in doing it faster as possible, I swear)
- 2 strips about 1,5" wide sewed to the inner side of the longitudinal edge double stitched seamlines (one each side)
- other 2 strips sewed on the inner side of the waist double stitched seamlines (one each side)
- a piece covering the entire inner surface of the collar (at the base of the neck, I added a half-moon shaped neoprene collar stand)

I agree about uniqlo (I also have a very similar one I used for my first selfmade coat, but it comes in caramel color and not willing to use it anymore for this project, better find something more camel-like or dark camel/tan), it's clear that Mechanismo found a proper middle-way to have enough SA and durability without having to deal with matting on the neck too soon, I saw that the local italian supplier of this one I posted, guaranteed it wil last washing cycles etc but at the moment I don't need it for my BEP, and on my SR I decided to keep the original one I distressed a bit and put back a while ago.

I think it's correct how you planned, but I wanna strongly discourage to completely remove the strap and buckle system, I believe is crucial for practicality, regardless of the strong magnets you can put and/or add as I also did, I will be also nice to see the coat without the strap (it would be so terrificly sci fi), but no, I will let it. Anyway, yes, I moved it to another position after have set all the magnets first. Since my SR is a L size which should fit me regular (L is usually my size for everything) but it has very snug fit instead, I found a little room to do my tweaks on the collar side and corners, I barely got it, so I started putting magnets from the closure on my face (putting those magnets on the very edge of those corners, was mandatory for me of course), so then no magnets at throat (it holds perfectly with no airflows the same, but as I wrote, I also featured that inner removable hidden chest shield, which comes up to protect the throat from air entering between the left side collar-lapel, and that's strictly needed when I ride bikes / motorbikes in winter), then a couple magnets (extremely strong, the strongest couple) for the left lapel's corner-right uper chest match, then a couple more or less in the middle of the chest (slightly towards right, following the oblique streaks that must be to have the proper positioning), and another couple near the hook n eye, then other for the open position (a middle force couple for pinching the left lapel and collar when folded together, another one to match the folded collar corner on the left chest, and another weak couple to just help the right lapel too in holding the open set without being too much rigid (if you move very freely, it can let the lapel also flutter a bit, being casual enough not to look too much of an artifact).
So I used fur, buckram, and seamlines as useful parts to attach magnets to their inner sides, doing the job.
I saw that Jameel incapsulated his magnets into fabric too, but he used a superglue I struggled a lot with when time to move them has come, and he fixed them to the fabric in some cases, and to the fur for the most, it works great, but it was very risky to handle without doing damages and to adjust the size, handling is needed in most of the cases when you have the garment in your hand. With this, I'm not saying pinholes are the way to go (I usually avoid them or minimize the use to the very little possible, they can weaken the fabric and often making visible creases from outside with the weaker clothes in particular).

Oh, yeah, I definitely won't remove the strap with the buckle, keeping that would be vital for screen accuracy. I meant the other little strap that attaches the bottom edge of the collar on the long side to the lapel on that same side and keeps the lapel closed in the absence of magnets on the front when the collar is fastened, which wasn't on any of the screen used props and was just added for the SR design. I'm thinking part of my issue with how the collar fits might be that hidden strap pulling it down. Regardless, I'll have to open up both those seams for the other modifications anyway, so it should be easy to test how it will work with the strap removed and add it back if necessary.

 

[CountLau]

Oh, yeah, I definitely won't remove the strap with the buckle, keeping that would be vital for screen accuracy. I meant the other little strap that attaches the bottom edge of the collar on the long side to the lapel on that same side and keeps the lapel closed in the absence of magnets on the front when the collar is fastened, which wasn't on any of the screen used props and was just added for the SR design. I'm thinking part of my issue with how the collar fits might be that hidden strap pulling it down. Regardless, I'll have to open up both those seams for the other modifications anyway, so it should be easy to test how it will work with the strap removed and add it back if necessary.

Ah ok, I misunderstood...

I personally found simply great the solution SR put for that detail, even if not SA, but you could replicate the visible stitches as the movie coat, Jameel also did them correct even if I twisted them in order to find a fit closer to the movie as well to my goals...

 

[Cameron1138]

Ah ok, I misunderstood...

I personally found simply great the solution SR put for that detail, even if not SA, but you could replicate the visible stitches as the movie coat, Jameel also did them correct even if I twisted them in order to find a fit closer to the movie as well to my goals...

I'll probably leave it then because I think once I add the additional magnets and the buckram to the lapels the collar should easily lie the way I want it to even while attached to the lapel.

I just noticed another change to make as well. Part of the reason the collar on mine seems to loose is probably that the strap is placed differently. On Gosling's coat, it's sewn on so that the third (loosest) hole barely comes past the edge of the collar flap, but on the SR version, it's sewn on much closer to the edge so that the first (tightest) is right on the edge. Removing and reattaching the strap should help the collar fit more accurately when it's up.

 

[CountLau]

I'll probably leave it then because I think once I add the additional magnets and the buckram to the lapels the collar should easily lie the way I want it to even while attached to the lapel.

I just noticed another change to make as well. Part of the reason the collar on mine seems to loose is probably that the strap is placed differently. On Gosling's coat, it's sewn on so that the third (loosest) hole barely comes past the edge of the collar flap, but on the SR version, it's sewn on much closer to the edge so that the first (tightest) is right on the edge. Removing and reattaching the strap should help the collar fit more accurately when it's up.View attachment 1919065View attachment 1919066

yeah that's what I did, at the end of the work about magnets repositioning and size fine tuning, but... When just finished and the two parts (buckle and strap) moved, it stays as I meant it to stay (so about the same of Gosling close-up above here, with the buckle holding the first of three holes), and after a while that you use the coat and some adaptation of the fabric occurs, it will end becoming stable and properly adhere to you face without letting to much space, to the second hole...
so it's one thing if you use the coat just for cosplay outing, so then limited occasions, not actual daily use...another thing is if you do like I do, using it about all the time in winter (I just alternate it sometimes with my BEP, sometimes with a down jacket) because it's pretty obvious, that Gosling had almost always the right fitted coat in the movie (I just see a bit more of a loosen fit, only in the last scenes when he took the wooden horse from the pocket to give it to Deckard, when I believe the fit is much more distressed and also with more loosen sleeves etc), so even if with differente levels and types of scenic distressing.

You could always readjust the strap after a while the coat has adapted to your body, but I think you will also notice that, if you use the most distant hole to close, the SR buckle cannot hold it well because the other metal eyelet that passes after the pin does not have enough strap length to grip it properly.
This does not happen with the Jameel buckle, I find that Jameel has chosen a very SA buckle-strap block, but I did not want to find an identical one, I am happy to use my SR on the second hole, because the quality of those parts of the SR (as in all the rest of the coat) is truly excellent, I'm writing this only because these are details that need to be said, if we talk about maximum SA detail

 

[Mechanismo]

Got my Soul Revolver coat in. Mostly good but a bit of a mixed bag. The quality is great, the fabric is perfect and I don't mind the shearling so much in person either.

But I want your critiques on the fit, does this look close enough that it could work well on me with slight tailoring? Or should I sell it and go ahead with my original plan to make one (if I'm able to find good enough fabric)? It's a size M and I normally wear S or sometimes even XS, but going by measurements provided by the seller and his recommendations based on my weight and measurements and knowing that SR jackets tend to fit pretty slim, I figured I'd take the risk on it. The length in the body is perfect, I was worried it'd be too short and I think S probably would've been. The sleeves are tad longer than they should be but not too much. I think the width of the chest and waist are fine, I don't want them to be too tight so there's room for the holster and blaster underneath. The shoulders are maybe a tad wider than I'd prefer but not too bad, and adding shoulder pads (not much, just half a inch or so) will help a lot (I already tried trying it on with pads underneath and it was a big improvement. Brought the sleeves down to a more accurate length as well).
View attachment 1918427View attachment 1918426
There are two main issues with the fit for me. First is the collar. I'm worried it might be a little too large around for me, making it too loose when up. If I have my head angled down a little bit (which I tend to do subconsciously anyway when I'm cold and wearing anything with a high collar) it covers the base of my nose the way it should, but it's loose and low enough that if I aim my head straight forward my nose sticks out. There's also a lot of extra material around it, even when buckled with the tightest hole.
View attachment 1918425View attachment 1918423View attachment 1918424
Looking at this picture here the collar doesn't look quite as tight around his face as I'd remembered, and his neck looks like it might be angled slightly down as well, so maybe the collar fits me better than I initially thought, but I'd still like other opinions on it:

The other issue is the shoulders in the back. While the chest width armpit to armpit and the shoulder width across the top seem alright to me, there's an excess of material right at the back of the shoulder that bunches up when my arms are down at my sides. Additionally, the upper sleeves are too wide. I wasn't able to get a great picture of it but you can get an idea here:
View attachment 1918422View attachment 1918421
Now I understand pretty much any jacket that's not so tight as to severely restrict arm movement is going to have a little bit of that, and it looks like there is a slight bit of that going on on Gosling's coat from how the fabric is folding right behind the armholes here, but not nearly as severely:

Based on my 12 years of sewing experience, it seems to me like it SHOULD be possible to solve this by opening up the jacket, undoing the seams highlighted in red here and that portion of the armhole, and restitching both those seams to bring it in by about an inch or so. Not super easy, but definitely doable. But everything I find on Google says it's not going to be possible. Tailors can take in those seams individually to slim down either the sleeves or the body, and it seems like you should be able to take them both in by the same amount to slim it down in both places, but I can't find anything saying that's something you can do.
View attachment 1918418
Should that be doable or am I way overestimating myself here?

Other than those, it definitely needs magnets in order to be very practical as an actual coat. The hook and eye comes undone way too easily, as others have said. I don't care about matching SR's magnets exactly as long as they're close enough in size and shape. In addition to adding a few along the front, I'm thinking of adding a fourth one on the last corner of the collar here to help it keep a more accurate folded shape when I'm wearing it down:
View attachment 1918419
I just want to make sure, and this is probably a silly question, but is there any risk these magnets could damage my phone if it gets too close? Google indicates no, but I want to be sure. The magnets on the front would be going right over the chest pocket and I can try to avoid putting my phone in that one, but I can't guarantee I won't forget and put it in there by mistake.

Lastly, a pleasant surprise that will make this easier to modify than I'd expected: The edges of the lapels and collar don't appear to be sewn together except by the topstitching, there's no third row right along the edge of the seam, which means it should be pretty simple to open it up along those edges, do what I need to do inside, and close it back up just be redoing the topstitching, all while retaining the original construction of the coat. If I decide to replace the fur, I could do that at this point too, but I'm honestly not sure if I will. I might also add some pieces of interfacing or buckram for the lapels to help them fold where I want so they aren't folding all the way down to the waist seams like they tend to want to do.
View attachment 1918420

Coat looks amazing! Congrats. Massive respect for you guys who know your way around tailoring and willing to dive in with personal alterations. Fit-wise, I'd say to slim it down if you can to get a more tailored/snug look but that all boils to taste.

The Golden Rabbit/camel brown shearling I sourced back in the day for my custom WSL was really cheap (eight bucks square meter) and a really close match in terms of SA, but as CoutLau points out, the cheapness also leads to matting in the area around the neck. I've replaced it twice. So, the Uniqlo teddy/sherpa women's coat is a nice alternative because it's better quality overall and still looks the part. Especially the color. Also, those sherpa coats aren't going to break the bank.

It's odd how SR still hasn't managed to figure out the magnet situation, btw. Looking forward to seeing the changes on the coat.

 

[Cameron1138]

Coat looks amazing! Congrats. Massive respect for you guys who know your way around tailoring and willing to dive in with personal alterations. Fit-wise, I'd say to slim it down if you can to get a more tailored/snug look but that all boils to taste.

The Golden Rabbit/camel brown shearling I sourced back in the day for my custom WSL was really cheap (eight bucks square meter) and a really close match in terms of SA, but as CoutLau points out, the cheapness also leads to matting in the area around the neck. I've replaced it twice. So, the Uniqlo teddy/sherpa women's coat is a nice alternative because it's better quality overall and still looks the part. Especially the color. Also, those sherpa coats aren't going to break the bank.

It's odd how SR still hasn't managed to figure out the magnet situation, btw. Looking forward to seeing the changes on the coat.

Still a little nervous about getting started but I always am (making something from scratch is always much less intimidating than modifying something, even if it's a lot more work). I hope I'm able to slim it down enough that it's worth it.

(If anyone who's in the US and has a size S and is interested in exchanging it for my M reads this before I get started, send me a message with the measurements. I may want to try that if the length is still long enough.)

 

[CountLau]

Still a little nervous about getting started but I always am (making something from scratch is always much less intimidating than modifying something, even if it's a lot more work). I hope I'm able to slim it down enough that it's worth it.

(If anyone who's in the US and has a size S and is interested in exchanging it for my M reads this before I get started, send me a message with the measurements. I may want to try that if the length is still long enough.)

it's what I said several times...if you already now which model is he right one to follow about, it's better to start from the scratch...my first selfmade coat showed all my flaws about tailoring technique, sewing fine level and means, but basically it was perfect exactly as I meant for what concern many aspects of the model (yes, many details came out during our following debates here), alas, it was made by a cotton twill I found, not the best for the project, coated in a way that has absolutely nothing to do with a great Otter or Barbour coating and not even to say about the terrific SR acrylic method, and...I was just out of the hospital, with long covid diseases for months at home and -10kg from now, naively chose that size and then putting aside that raw first but nice coat forever.

Right to try having a smaller size if it matches collar and length with your purposes, but anyway, if it doesn't arrive...
c'mon, u can do it. Take your time, step by step without any rush and caring for calculation, possibly also considering a pro tailor to help you, I believe starting from a bigger size, could lead to also great results

 

[Cameron1138]

it's what I said several times...if you already now which model is he right one to follow about, it's better to start from the scratch...my first selfmade coat showed all my flaws about tailoring technique, sewing fine level and means, but basically it was perfect exactly as I meant for what concern many aspects of the model (yes, many details came out during our following debates here), alas, it was made by a cotton twill I found, not the best for the project, coated in a way that has absolutely nothing to do with a great Otter or Barbour coating and not even to say about the terrific SR acrylic method, and...I was just out of the hospital, with long covid diseases for months at home and -10kg from now, naively chose that size and then putting aside that raw first but nice coat forever.

Right to try having a smaller size if it matches collar and length with your purposes, but anyway, if it doesn't arrive...
c'mon, u can do it. Take your time, step by step without any rush and caring for calculation, possibly also considering a pro tailor to help you, I believe starting from a bigger size, could lead to also great results

Well, I've already hit a bit of a snag. I was just out looking for thread and for the first time in my life I can't find what I need. The topstitching thread on the jacket is much thicker than normal and the thread brand available near me makes very few colors at that weight. There's another sewing shop I can try but otherwise I'd have to try to get matching thread online and that sounds like a nightmare with such a specific color.

I keep going back and forth on it, I like the idea of making my own but (if I can find the thread I need) using this one would save a lot of time, and while I've found some oilskin fabrics that look decent, there's definitely nothing out there nearly as good as the SR fabric and I really don't want to mess with waxed a whole jacket again (did that once and it was miserable and turned out pretty badly). But if I can't find the right thread to match the existing construction of the SR jacket, my changes will stick out like a sore thumb and making one from scratch will be my only option.

 

[CountLau]

Well, I've already hit a bit of a snag. I was just out looking for thread and for the first time in my life I can't find what I need. The topstitching thread on the jacket is much thicker than normal and the thread brand available near me makes very few colors at that weight. There's another sewing shop I can try but otherwise I'd have to try to get matching thread online and that sounds like a nightmare with such a specific color.

I keep going back and forth on it, I like the idea of making my own but (if I can find the thread I need) using this one would save a lot of time, and while I've found some oilskin fabrics that look decent, there's definitely nothing out there nearly as good as the SR fabric and I really don't want to mess with waxed a whole jacket again (did that once and it was miserable and turned out pretty badly). But if I can't find the right thread to match the existing construction of the SR jacket, my changes will stick out like a sore thumb and making one from scratch will be my only option.

I used a similar one, but it seems not possible to find the same.
Here, absolutely nobody notices the differences (starting by me, I can barely remember the points were I worked about a year ago...it was june) but I also made additional treatment to the coating, to add some more brightness to the color (I found it great but still too dark originally) and first of all, some even more sturdiness (I absolutely don't wanna ever see this coat damaged) so then it helped to mask any little difference of the thread.

I know that starting from the scratch it's very time consuming and radical choice also to set immediately everything as we want, but I admit not problem, I don't believe I'd able to have a result like my actual SR is, at all, so it's up to you, in your shoes I'd go for the tweaks, even with a similar, non-identical thread.

The debate about the coating of this garment was so long, I went all-in with my BEP for it and for the color, and eventually, the SR one is about to be unmatchable, so...a word to the wise

 

[Cameron1138]

I used a similar one, but it seems not possible to find the same.
Here, absolutely nobody notices the differences (starting by me, I can barely remember the points were I worked about a year ago...it was june) but I also made additional treatment to the coating, to add some more brightness to the color (I found it great but still too dark originally) and first of all, some even more sturdiness (I absolutely don't wanna ever see this coat damaged) so then it helped to mask any little difference of the thread.

I know that starting from the scratch it's very time consuming and radical choice also to set immediately everything as we want, but I admit not problem, I don't believe I'd able to have a result like my actual SR is, at all, so it's up to you, in your shoes I'd go for the tweaks, even with a similar, non-identical thread.

The debate about the coating of this garment was so long, I went all-in with my BEP for it and for the color, and eventually, the SR one is about to be unmatchable, so...a word to the wise

I know most people won't be able to notice and probably wouldn't care if they did, but you're talking to someone who's remade entire coats because my previous one was a couple inches too short, or I didn't like how I did the topstitching previously, or the previous fabric was just a little off and I found a better one. I've made 4 Deckard trench coats and I'm currently planning a 5th. Little things like that really bother me and I don't know if I'll be able to bring myself to rip apart a jacket I spent $400 on when I don't even have the materials needed to put it back together exactly as it came.

I'll keep looking for thread but in the meantime I've got a sample of some dark green oilcloth on the way that at least in the photos online, looks like it could be nearly as perfect of a color.

 

[Bacta]

I know most people won't be able to notice and probably wouldn't care if they did, but you're talking to someone who's remade entire coats because my previous one was a couple inches too short, or I didn't like how I did the topstitching previously, or the previous fabric was just a little off and I found a better one. I've made 4 Deckard trench coats and I'm currently planning a 5th. Little things like that really bother me and I don't know if I'll be able to bring myself to rip apart a jacket I spent $400 on when I don't even have the materials needed to put it back together exactly as it came.

I'll keep looking for thread but in the meantime I've got a sample of some dark green oilcloth on the way that at least in the photos online, looks like it could be nearly as perfect of a color.

Look forward to that sample. I hope you post photos.