Cameron1138
Sr Member
I definitely will, whichever way I go with this.Look forward to that sample. I hope you post photos.
Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
- Start date
CountLau
Sr Member
I agree for the cost of the SR, it's annyoing to miss details needing for adjustments, I aimed to a nice final result, I think that's exactly what I got, from other people's opinions, but above all from my own one.
I still appreciate your care of these details, that's how you improve by doing things at your best.
If there's no need to rush, probably the thread can be found, with a lot of research. I just suggest to forget about asking SR about it
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Cameron1138
Sr Member
The oilcloth sample arrived and it's not even worth posting pictures, it looks nothing like the pictures online. Not at all shiny and much browner than it'd looked. Not sure if it's worth trying to get samples of any of the others I'd found but I might if I get desperate enough. Still no luck with thread either, never guessed that of all things would be the biggest hurdle with this project. It was just a perfect time for Joann's to go out of business. (Not that they necessarily would've had such an obscure thread either.)
CountLau
Sr Member
Who's Joann? if you mean Seann from SR, yes I saw they still haven't restocked their SR coat in the website, but honestly, I don't believe they would ever provide the thread on request, unless you're a personal friend of them...
anyway, well...I guess you're going to better think about not selling your SR, and waiting for any proper thread to be found (it's such a unique cloth...probably too hard to match it by tracking clothes out there without seeing'em in person). I avoid pics since dunno why they came ugly with this, but I recently managed to do some acrylic coated cloth (on black cotton twill base) doing some covers for two grippng point for a great kickscooter I've just bought which I want it to look cyberpunk style, it gaves some of SR / blade runnery feeling, possibly I could replicate the effect pretty decently on a uncoated duck canvas now, but yes, buying it from a manufacturer, it could be a proper way, but I guess you need to see in person the cloth to actually figure out (as many other things).
below is a light beige men's coat in real sheepskin, 90s, size L eu, I now continue to recommend stuff like that instead of fake fur only because it is indicated in the reference materials, you will find very SA fleeces and it is of excellent quality like the SR one but with even more beautiful fleeces, it requires that type of work that I have already done successfully on distressing using the ipa diluted method of which I still have several of those inks but also less invasive methods that I have now understood and they work anyway, it would be enough for my SR and also the BEP.
For the record, paid 10 euros at a flea market ... if you agree with me, I therefore recommend continuing to search in that direction and find a real one, with something like that there will never be problems with mattify, certainly not in the short term but I think never, unless I do I don't know what to it
Cameron1138
Sr Member
Joann's is (well, was) the main fabric store chain in the US. They weren't very good for fabric or things like buttons but they had interfacing and most importantly a great selection of threads. They just announced they're going out of business and the stores that are still open have little to no stock left in terms of anything people actually buy (like thread). If you're not lucky enough to live in an interesting and hip enough city to have a proper garment-oriented sewing store near you they were probably your only real option. There are a couple other craft and sewing stores in my area but none of them have nearly the selection Joann's did. I'm glad I don't have too many planned projects left on my list and that most of them will use fairly basic thread colors like black and grey, because getting thread is going to be a lot harder (and more expensive) now.
CountLau
Sr Member
oh, now I got it...
it's a hard world.
Anyway, I tried to find some proper interlining, I'd be willing to exercise myself trying to replicate the great work Jameel is able to do with it for the edges of his k coat replicas (the black foam)
...on Aliexpress, I tracked something close to the one I found inside my BEP, but very hard to find it too, even in person (which is the way I prefer to track that stuff, by actually touching with my hands everything I mind to use for my projects).
On the other hand, if many items (and replicas) are sold and appreciated even if with really second-rate details, it comes naturally to understand how many people really care about it (as we try to do, especially for example you with the right thread to find), and how many instead, as I had already discussed with others, tend to settle too easy, then for goodness sake, cosplay if you want to be a serious person in a gathering, you have to make an effort to be as similar as possible to the character, but I personally wanna go beyond this, maybe making a garment with even personal details, as long as it is nice to look at, and the biggest problem imo is when you really get a tacky result, or you get a medium or low quality, or you excessively question the practicality if intended as a garment that can also be used in everyday life and with due ease
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Cameron1138
Sr Member
The fourth thread I tried hoping for a match was a bust, but I do have a fabric sample on the way that I think will be a perfect base for making my own jacket from scratch. It's a plain cotton canvas so I'll need to coat it myself, which I really didn't want to do, but it'll be worth it if the color is close enough.
CountLau
Sr Member
great anyway...possibly better wait to see the very end of ur project before any other thought about selling the SR.
That was my very first desire (doing one on my own, starting from the scratch), but even if many people told me about some strokes of genius that they believe I am capable of, in reality as I have always admitted, I would say that my actual tailoring skills risk being still limited, I deal with something else and it is not my job, so to create high quality details I would have to try much more and the coat that I made myself, in this sense showed obvious shortcomings, even ifI would have appreciated it anyway, since the details I wanted and the measurements of each part were perfect (but if I had remained the size of when I left the hospital gaunt and worn out after covid, not when I then recovered my normal physique as I do now), I made a lot of improvements in coating cotton clothes with acrylic, never say never, maybe one day in the future I will try the same, now no time left and I'm heading to many other things, eventually enjoying the last times with my SR before putting it into the closet till late next autumn.
Have a nice day and good work then
Cameron1138
Sr Member
Of course, I always hang on to any 'alternatives' for an item until I have something finished that I'm fully satisfied with. But I really feel way more confident and less nervous about making my own than modifying the SR. I actually made a K coat way back in 2018, it was much more 'inspired by' rather than trying to be fully accurate but with how much better I've gotten at sewing since then and all the reference images we have now from the prop auction, fixing this pattern to be more accurate shouldn't be a problem once I've managed to track down the right materials.
i dont know - that looks awesome. I get the quest for the perfect screen accurate coat but man - making that yourself?? Fantastic
If you find the right materials you clearly do not need that soul revolver.
Rock on!
CountLau
Sr Member
Hi all, are u doin'...hope great.
Eventually, I'm going into my very final step I preannounced time ago: making the untempth fur replacement on both my k coats, using a proper real shearling I tracked in a flea market, which came in a clear beige (just a bit less bright than the original fur Jameel used for the laminated cotton twill coat I bought from him), distressing it in the right way I believe to manage at today after all tries and studies.
Well, I did a raw cut of the parts and the work it's just at the beginning, but after a first look, I can't describe how much of a great result it should come out, even if it's not faux fur, I think many used shearling you can find around can offer the proper fleeces to almost perfectly match the movie effect.
But I want say that, by using and abusing it as I use to do in cold season time, even the non SA but really great quality fur provided by SR tends to slightly mattify on the neck, so I won't hide the pic below where I show it some signs of it, and I think I can say now this is a fact, that no fur can be perfectly keeping its solidity in that part during time, even if the real one it's another story and definitely the choice to have the more long lasting option and sturdiness, it is also possible to carefully wash it somehow (label instructions from SR notice even a 30 C degrees cycle as possibile, as well as the used real shearling coat I bought to finish the project this way).
So this time I will take my time to do it, but I believe it will actually be the very end and I won't mind to replace that again the future...just to make the point again and possibly give some other good insights
For the record, I'm using semi permanent hair spray dyes (different shades of brown and blonde), and I plan to also add a finish with grey and green ipa diluted inks left from my previous works. I will post the final result next months when I'll finish everything.
Here below the pic where it's visible how the neck start to mattify a bit during time on whatever fur
and some other pics of how the new fur is looking now, before I will go on with my work
Eventually, I'm going into my very final step I preannounced time ago: making the untempth fur replacement on both my k coats, using a proper real shearling I tracked in a flea market, which came in a clear beige (just a bit less bright than the original fur Jameel used for the laminated cotton twill coat I bought from him), distressing it in the right way I believe to manage at today after all tries and studies.
Well, I did a raw cut of the parts and the work it's just at the beginning, but after a first look, I can't describe how much of a great result it should come out, even if it's not faux fur, I think many used shearling you can find around can offer the proper fleeces to almost perfectly match the movie effect.
But I want say that, by using and abusing it as I use to do in cold season time, even the non SA but really great quality fur provided by SR tends to slightly mattify on the neck, so I won't hide the pic below where I show it some signs of it, and I think I can say now this is a fact, that no fur can be perfectly keeping its solidity in that part during time, even if the real one it's another story and definitely the choice to have the more long lasting option and sturdiness, it is also possible to carefully wash it somehow (label instructions from SR notice even a 30 C degrees cycle as possibile, as well as the used real shearling coat I bought to finish the project this way).
So this time I will take my time to do it, but I believe it will actually be the very end and I won't mind to replace that again the future...just to make the point again and possibly give some other good insights
For the record, I'm using semi permanent hair spray dyes (different shades of brown and blonde), and I plan to also add a finish with grey and green ipa diluted inks left from my previous works. I will post the final result next months when I'll finish everything.
Here below the pic where it's visible how the neck start to mattify a bit during time on whatever fur
and some other pics of how the new fur is looking now, before I will go on with my work
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Cameron1138
Sr Member
Finally got the fabric sample in I requested 3 weeks ago and I think we have a winner! Here's a comparison with the Soul Revolver fabric, not a great photo but I was trying to keep it from being too washed out. It's an uncoated cotton canvas, and the color is a little light right now but since most coatings will darken it a little bit I think it'll be perfect after that's done.
Now I need to decide which coating to use. I'm leaning towards Otter Wax, but I'm considering Odicoat too and I found another fabric wax by a company called Denim Therapy that you can apparently apply for a shiny coating without needing any heat. Any thoughts about the best coating? I'm not considering the canned Barbour or Otter Wax coatings as those just sound like a huge pain to apply and I really don't have a good setup for laying out a large quantity of fabric right next to a stove.
Now I need to decide which coating to use. I'm leaning towards Otter Wax, but I'm considering Odicoat too and I found another fabric wax by a company called Denim Therapy that you can apparently apply for a shiny coating without needing any heat. Any thoughts about the best coating? I'm not considering the canned Barbour or Otter Wax coatings as those just sound like a huge pain to apply and I really don't have a good setup for laying out a large quantity of fabric right next to a stove.
CountLau
Sr Member
I will try other coatings in the future too (acrylic, trying to imitate SR to perfection, which all things considered remains the best).
My current idea, if I had to make one with a fabric like this (not coated): Otter Wax hands down, but I would prefer to have already learnt (as I still haven't) the result I struggled to achieve for two years from now, with acrylic coatings;
I don't think it's possible to get the right result without using the tin, I actually use two different waxes (Otter and Greenland), starting with the Otter tin, then working it with the heat gun and then leaving it hanging as I saw done in this video of a lab that repairs Barbour
(even if I don't have a heated table, but it will dry very well anyway, it will just take a long time and certainly not just an hour as they say here, and then the Barbour wax is also much less consistent than the Otter so I would say quicker to cure), then I gave a hand with the Greenland bars that help make the fabric less oily being a very hard wax opaque and dry, which also strengthens it a little more, used the hair dryer, finally I took care of every detail with the Otter bars, then a further last light general pass with more emphasis where needed (back shoulders joints etc), another blow dryer and after also some exposure to the sun (but not in the first periods after waxing), and it came out as it is now, for me perfect.
The first coat I made, I covered it with the Odicoat analogue (Cleopatre texti plast, which is practically the same stuff, just a bit less sticky), because my goal from the beginning was to have a washable fabric like SR, but I wouldn't say that it really gets the result I was looking for, it has too much of a strange plasticized smell for months, then it stabilizes but after a while it risks not remaining as homogeneous as it should, and it is so ******* too shinier than the SA level, so then, no, I would say that that is a solution that I would not recommend and also it stiffens too much, if you use a lot of it and want to make a kitchen apron, it's fine, for this stuff I would categorically avoid using it again, instead if one has time and money one can buy the various acrylic waxes and mediums out there (the best one I had tried and that today would perhaps hold the speech, is liquitex medium for textile, for a coat I would say at least 2 or 3 cans), however I also used Barbour wax, it is nice but imho there is no comparison wiht Otter, which is also specific for non-waxed native fabrics and you can see the difference when you use it, and on a sleeveless duck hiking jacket that I didn't want waxed anymore, I tried to wash it with a washing machine cycle at 60°C and the wax is still there, it doesn't go away, so in reality even in the case of a last resort, if you have waxed it well and stabilized it properly with the right amount of time, if you also wash it by hand at 20/30° in a bucket immersed, it should then hold up very well, in theory with the right detergent imo it can even hold up in the washing machine, in fact on the Otter instructions it doesn't put all the contraindications to washing that it puts on the Barbour, look at this stuff
Cameron1138
Sr Member
Does the tin wax allow for a shinier coating or something? It just looks like a lot more work to me to apply than the bar wax, and I've seen results with the bar wax that look quite good. These images from Amazon reviews of the bar wax look just about perfect to me, with a good sheen to the coating and a good darkening effect on the fabric.
Cameron1138
Sr Member
I looked into the Liquitex you mentioned and that sounds like a good option too that I hadn't heard about before. They seem to have a lot of different options, do you mean the fabric medium designed to be mixed with paint or the varnish? The spray satin varnish sounds like it could be ideal if that would achieve the desired shiny and darkening effect without making it too much stiffer, a spray seems like it would be much easier to apply. Did you use that or only the fabric medium?
CountLau
Sr Member
Otter fabric dressing is sold as "matte finish", in fact the bars give more shine than the dressing, I use both, first dressing then bars. Because the first time I used these waxes, I bought only two large Otter bars and it was already fantastic, but then I tried to get the dressing too, doing as I said, first the dressing and then finishing with the bars, it's another thing, it's true that the bars are simple to use, but the dressing impregnates the fabric and makes it practically like a kind of laminate, as if it were fused together, if you do it well, and it also remains more evenly treated than with the bars alone, for example I preferred the bars alone for the two matching hats that I made specifically to wear with my k coats, and which I wanted to have some kind of rainproof finish with the same coated effect, but since they are simple elasticized cotton skullies that I made and colored the same as the coats with the proper powders mix in the washing machine, then for those I avoided the dressing, because they don't have a lining and I don't want them to be bulky, but I just need a little more protection and water repellency than a simple mid-season skully, I didn't want the wax to penetrate too much and impregnate to also have the inside with it, so with the bars that went well, but the coat no, I really wanted it as if it were a laminate... in fact, in this aspect it is also one of the reasons why I extra waxed my SR with Otter wax same method... SR acrylic coating is terrific and remains the base of this coat, but it did not seem sufficiently cut-proof and protective, so as I did it, this winter it has given me an excellent service even using it every day in not indifferent cold even going around on a motorbike, kickscooter or bike whatever it wasDoes the tin wax allow for a shinier coating or something? It just looks like a lot more work to me to apply than the bar wax, and I've seen results with the bar wax that look quite good. These images from Amazon reviews of the bar wax look just about perfect to me, with a good sheen to the coating and a good darkening effect on the fabric.
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CountLau
Sr Member
Here is my empty liquitex can.
I also saw that others tried liquitex in the past, there's something about it somewhere just after the beginning of the thread, but I wasn't inspired by that...I just bought 2/3 different type of plastic coating and medium, after having done an attempts with low and medium-end waxes which didn't satisfied me, and then turning back to my successful classic noticeable waxes finish, understanding that the proper way to get a sure shot using acrylics with that, it was still far
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CountLau
Sr Member
I don't remember how many attempts I made on my BEP when I got that stuff into my head, this was part of the disaster that led me to lose some of the quality, but because I mixed it with acrylic colors that were too hard because I didn't understand two things:
1 the laminate that I bought and that Jameel had, is a cotton mixed with PU, but it reacts quite a lot to treatments with radical dyes, so if I went back, since it was too dark 'n' colorless, I would have directly done what led me to have it like today, that is, bathe it in diluted bleach, discolor it just the right amount evenly, then recolor it in the washing machine with the right mix of powders (teal/gray/petrol/brown in order of decreasing doses), and probably limiting to a light sanding would have saved me from having to cover it again, because without making all the mess I did, the PU coating would still have been all there, I just sanded the most of it because it was too plastic-like, and eventually to remove the acrylic disaster I put onto it
2 Jameel's laminate was still a cotton that has a certain degree of elasticity, so any coating that wasn't (if really necessary, because if as in point 1, it wouldn't have even been) classic wax (so of the Otter or Barbour, Kuhl etc type), idiot me who put acrylics on that stuff... I had to remember, having already used them, that acrylics even diluted with medium, maintain a certain degree of rigidity that will never make them minimally suitable for fabrics with even a minimal spandex component like that, surely if I had done it on the wsl or on an Indy coat not waxed, maybe using less hard colors, it would have worked great, it is possible that it was even better than the SR... now I have other things to do, but in the future, never say never
1 the laminate that I bought and that Jameel had, is a cotton mixed with PU, but it reacts quite a lot to treatments with radical dyes, so if I went back, since it was too dark 'n' colorless, I would have directly done what led me to have it like today, that is, bathe it in diluted bleach, discolor it just the right amount evenly, then recolor it in the washing machine with the right mix of powders (teal/gray/petrol/brown in order of decreasing doses), and probably limiting to a light sanding would have saved me from having to cover it again, because without making all the mess I did, the PU coating would still have been all there, I just sanded the most of it because it was too plastic-like, and eventually to remove the acrylic disaster I put onto it
2 Jameel's laminate was still a cotton that has a certain degree of elasticity, so any coating that wasn't (if really necessary, because if as in point 1, it wouldn't have even been) classic wax (so of the Otter or Barbour, Kuhl etc type), idiot me who put acrylics on that stuff... I had to remember, having already used them, that acrylics even diluted with medium, maintain a certain degree of rigidity that will never make them minimally suitable for fabrics with even a minimal spandex component like that, surely if I had done it on the wsl or on an Indy coat not waxed, maybe using less hard colors, it would have worked great, it is possible that it was even better than the SR... now I have other things to do, but in the future, never say never
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CountLau
Sr Member
about liquitex, I used it mixed to acrylic varnish when I did the disaster, then I also tried it alone (but after having the color fixed, since alone it's just a transparent stuff that gives shine and coating, but no color) and it seemed great to me, but instead of insisting with it and buy two other cans, I chose classic wax methods (Otter based I described) to recover my BEP from the disaster, as I wrote during my several previous posts of that time.
That was the safest and tested way to go, just to make some practice, but I figured that I was still far from having the right expertise with acrylics like also liquitex, and today, I probably would feel way more confident if I ever will go for that again.
you don't need to mix it and take certain risks with the colors, if it's already the right color, in fact it darkens a bit, but as I said, it's one thing if you have time and want to do all the necessary tests on the samples first because you always have to understand well if the fabric is the right one without taking too long and risky steps, otherwise go ahead with the Otter wax in my opinion
I went all-in with my bep also because I didn't received the cloth sample I asked to do my tries on, but I started trying in parts where it was working fine without risking the coat (for ex.inner sleeves and other hidden parts), probably the disaster came out because I went too carried away, feeling too confident, and doing the mistake in the right medium-varnish proportion, and also choosing too much of a stiff varnish.
About spray, I didn't find one for this kind of project, I also tried classic industrial poly-resin on fabric (it's toxic, but it should be safe when completely cured), extremely easy to apply, but away to give a pleasant result...cloth stiffened, toxic smell for ages, product absorbed without making the proper layer as was do...I suggest to stay way from sprays, but a better result, I had it when I tried diluted acrylics on airbrush, as suggested by the guy with Adam S. in the vid they examinated one of the movie coat, but nothing I feel to do like a pro, so I did it after some tries, making other stuff, not the coat
That was the safest and tested way to go, just to make some practice, but I figured that I was still far from having the right expertise with acrylics like also liquitex, and today, I probably would feel way more confident if I ever will go for that again.
you don't need to mix it and take certain risks with the colors, if it's already the right color, in fact it darkens a bit, but as I said, it's one thing if you have time and want to do all the necessary tests on the samples first because you always have to understand well if the fabric is the right one without taking too long and risky steps, otherwise go ahead with the Otter wax in my opinion
I went all-in with my bep also because I didn't received the cloth sample I asked to do my tries on, but I started trying in parts where it was working fine without risking the coat (for ex.inner sleeves and other hidden parts), probably the disaster came out because I went too carried away, feeling too confident, and doing the mistake in the right medium-varnish proportion, and also choosing too much of a stiff varnish.
About spray, I didn't find one for this kind of project, I also tried classic industrial poly-resin on fabric (it's toxic, but it should be safe when completely cured), extremely easy to apply, but away to give a pleasant result...cloth stiffened, toxic smell for ages, product absorbed without making the proper layer as was do...I suggest to stay way from sprays, but a better result, I had it when I tried diluted acrylics on airbrush, as suggested by the guy with Adam S. in the vid they examinated one of the movie coat, but nothing I feel to do like a pro, so I did it after some tries, making other stuff, not the coat
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Cameron1138
Sr Member
How much did the Liquitex stiffen the fabric as opposed to Otter Wax? I know it'll get stiffer either way, I like the idea of the varnish because it seems closer to what they probably did on the actual prop than a more rustic method like natural wax but I'm worried the varnish will be too stiff. I've been researching it more but can't find very much about using it on clothing.
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