It’s chubsANDdoggers figure. I believe it’s the Hot Toys 1/6 figure, but he can confirm.
Solo’s Blaster/Carbine
- Thread starter chubsANDdoggers
- Start date
Ya it’s simply the 1/6 Hot Toys figure.
Is it?! Huh... I guess I was thinking the antidote vial was much smaller than that, so that's what was throwing my sense of scale off. Thanks.
The 48th Ronin
The vial itself might be a little bigger or smaller than the actual filming prop itself. The vial you can buy which cjunco1937 sourced out and sent my way. I then created and scaled the lid around said vial size but still in proportion to that of the filming prop. So this vials lid and body might be again a little bigger or smaller. Bigger is my guess.
The vial itself might be a little bigger or smaller than the actual filming prop itself. The vial you can buy which cjunco1937 sourced out and sent my way. I then created and scaled the lid around said vial size but still in proportion to that of the filming prop. So this vials lid and body might be again a little bigger or smaller. Bigger is my guess.
The book From Star Wars to Indiana Jones lists the dimensions as 2cm x 9cms (ie .787 inches x 3.54 inches). The vials I sourced were .98 inches by 3.74 inches, which is the closest I could find. That said, I’m not even sure the book’s measurements are 100% accurate. In this pic, the prop looks a bit bigger to me than 3.54 inches (notice his fingers are covering the lower gold band) but no way to really tell. I’m inclined to agree with John that ours is a little bigger than the screen version. But not by much I think.
Lol. Nice
Stembridge MJF blaster print. The purple is a color misprint is all. They should be grey (FH) and Black (weaver) but each will be painted regardless..
Here is a breakdown of this Stembridge build into each individual part so you can get an idea of how detailed it is..
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The Stembridge grips being painted..
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Some progress over the weekend..
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Always impressed by your ability to make 3d printed parts look really finished and professional.
Thinks Dan. Cheers bud!
Got some more painting completed on the Stembridge build..
Here’s an example of the process on how these MJF/SLS prints are smoothed out. It’s not difficult but it’s obviously a little tedious to anyone whos impatient (I’m guilty at times of this myself).
It only takes a couple coats of primer and my favorite is definitely Krylon primer. Not the primer and paint in one but the full on primer. It goes on thin but it also dries super fast and doesn’t seem to clump together.
I very much DISlike “Rust-oleum” primer as it doesn’t seem to fully dry (or it takes forever to do so) and it’s thick so it ruins small details that’s within the design itself.
Here’s some pics of this process. This is the top of the mount where the weaver sits. Simply prime, sand and then reprime. Again each coat of primer dries extremely fast so I can add about 3 coats within 30 minutes from when I start. As long as the sun is out I’m good to go. Then once those coats dry I’ll use 400 grain sandpaper and it doesn’t take that much sanding. Smooths out pretty quickly. After which I’ll add the the finishing coat of primer. Just one coat this time. I’ll probably go over this with 800 grain sandpaper to flatten it tight once it’s dried and it should be good to go..
There is a LOT of parts so it’s a little time consuming obviously. This is where it becomes tedious BUT being that I’m obsessed with detail/accuracy and chose to design it with so many individual parts to get there..
That song JUST by Radiohead plays in my head every time I get to this stage!
But this type of sanding I also find strangely therapeutic as well so..
It only takes a couple coats of primer and my favorite is definitely Krylon primer. Not the primer and paint in one but the full on primer. It goes on thin but it also dries super fast and doesn’t seem to clump together.
I very much DISlike “Rust-oleum” primer as it doesn’t seem to fully dry (or it takes forever to do so) and it’s thick so it ruins small details that’s within the design itself.
Here’s some pics of this process. This is the top of the mount where the weaver sits. Simply prime, sand and then reprime. Again each coat of primer dries extremely fast so I can add about 3 coats within 30 minutes from when I start. As long as the sun is out I’m good to go. Then once those coats dry I’ll use 400 grain sandpaper and it doesn’t take that much sanding. Smooths out pretty quickly. After which I’ll add the the finishing coat of primer. Just one coat this time. I’ll probably go over this with 800 grain sandpaper to flatten it tight once it’s dried and it should be good to go..
There is a LOT of parts so it’s a little time consuming obviously. This is where it becomes tedious BUT being that I’m obsessed with detail/accuracy and chose to design it with so many individual parts to get there..
That song JUST by Radiohead plays in my head every time I get to this stage!
But this type of sanding I also find strangely therapeutic as well so..
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Vagabond Elf
Well-Known Member
On of the realities of spray paints and primers that people tend to forget is their carrier fluid - the stuff that lets them "spray" - is a solvent. And solvents can interact weirdly with different kinds of plastic. I suspect that's the main issue there - the carrier fluid in Rust-oleum is interacting with and slightly dissolving the plastic in your parts.
Personally I like Rust-oleum paints and it's usually safer to stick with the same brand for primers. But I'm painting droid parts and the details I'm trying to preserve are much larger than the ones you're after, and I'm painting ABS, not whatever nylon variation your shapeways parts are in. So neither of the issues you present occur for me, and I can focus on things like "works well with Tremclad" and "costs less and is easier to find." (At least in YEG.)
Anyway, that just goes to show there's no single solution to every problem, and one must be ready to adapt ones tools and techniques to each project!
Vagabond Elf ya for sure it’s always a personal approach to what works and what doesn’t. LOT’s of trial and error. For me and my needs it’s only been a frustrating experience and I can’t personally recommend it is all.
Here you can see the finished product of this process on the mount..
Now it’s ready for the base coat of white before finishing with some black over the weekend..
The suns is going down here on the west coast. So I’m forced to call it a night as you can see the crispness in air is already affecting the gold paint. Don’t want to push my luck..
Now it’s ready for the base coat of white before finishing with some black over the weekend..
The suns is going down here on the west coast. So I’m forced to call it a night as you can see the crispness in air is already affecting the gold paint. Don’t want to push my luck..
Some more progress pics on the Stembridge..
baron von blondle
Sr Member
That looks absolutely stunning! what colour/mix did you use for that lovely gunmetal look?
