Solo’s Blaster/Carbine
- Thread starter chubsANDdoggers
- Start date
Vagabond Elf
Well-Known Member
The numbers are a bit soft, but don't forget most of them would have been thwacked in, often by hand, before the parts were heat treated and blued. (The reason so many bits have the serial number is because of the massive amount of hand fitting, meaning you don't want to mix things up, so I assume the serials would go on fairly early.) So, with the goal being to recreate the filming prop rather than the in-character blaster, the soft edges and paint-filling effect of your numbers is probably adding to the final result. In photos, at least, they sure look like stamped metal to me!
Vagabond Elf ya that all makes sense for sure. As you know you spend all this time creating something and you simply want it to be “perfect”. So when the prints don’t reflect the CAD design 100% it sometimes takes another’s perspective to put it back into perspective..
Thanks man I appreciate it!
Thanks man I appreciate it!
I agree with Vagabond Elf - your final result looks very 'real-world' authentic to me. I think stark, perfectly defined numbers would distract from the 'used' nature of the prop. This latest work of yours is simply outstanding - and given your already fantastic portfolio, you are clearly climbing to new heights!
Appreciate that much Kevin. Cheers!
cloninaround
New Member
Continuously amazed at your growing portfolio of work, the antiquing and paint looks like it belongs in a museum...the fact it is done with rattle cans amazes me even more. Beautiful work all around!
Stembridge DL-44. It’s pretty much spot on to the actual filming prop I believe in all its details..
7-11 Jedi
Sr Member
Okay fine. I’ll take one. You twisted my arm…
I only need to revisit the pulley disk and the mystery disk on the back as these ones here were originally scaled for a denix.. but so far it’s looking pretty good.
Merr-Sonn in the books!
Merr-Sonn in the books!
EDIT: Just to be clear this file only needed to be tweaked for printing.
The 2nd print is beyond all expectations.
Everything works as it should pretty much perfectly. Bolt slide, trigger/hammer, safety and mag plate.. everything is how it should be! The letterings and numbers have also been reworked slightly so they now are more predominant. Also as an experiment I designed up and printed some 2/56 threaded screws and they have just enough threading to hold..
The 2nd print is beyond all expectations.
Everything works as it should pretty much perfectly. Bolt slide, trigger/hammer, safety and mag plate.. everything is how it should be! The letterings and numbers have also been reworked slightly so they now are more predominant. Also as an experiment I designed up and printed some 2/56 threaded screws and they have just enough threading to hold..
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Something a little different than the norm..
Here a couple overlays that came out pretty well..
And simply because why not I did the PS/RIA blaster as well..
And simply because why not I did the PS/RIA blaster as well..
Also did a quick drawing yesterday of Cassians Boot Knife. This was pretty straight forward but still fun to draw..
Matte Painter
Active Member
Wow, some of the detail yous guys have put in... crazy. I thought I was going a bit nuts with the fixes I made to the Thingiverse one.
Printed on my little Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k. Thankfully not musch sanding at that resolution, however the print volume is so small it meant about 10 print runs to get all the parts.
Printed on my little Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k. Thankfully not musch sanding at that resolution, however the print volume is so small it meant about 10 print runs to get all the parts.
Matte Painter nice print! Very inspiring as I’ve recently invested in Saturn 2 to print some of my designs. Ur finishing looks tops as well. Great job!
Matte Painter
Active Member
Thanks. The paint job came out better than I expected. I primed with Gunze Mr Surfacer 500, then wet sanded that with sanding sponge. The metal undercoat is airbrushed laquer MRP Burnt Iron mixed with Steel.
The top coat was airbrushed enamel Humbrol Gun Metal for the receiver and blast hider and Humbrol Black Gloss for the sight. I then let that dry for a day or two. Then got the cheapest kitchen roll I could find (it's rough, almost like sand paper) and soaked it in mineral spirit (white spirit) and let that almost entirely dry. Then rubbed this kitchen roll all over and it gently rubs back the enamel topcoats but doesn't effect the laquer metals.
The wooden grip was just a mix of Humbrol colours and streaking with a thick unthinned dark coat to get the wood effect. Then a laquer varnish on top to seal it in.
