Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
- Start date
Mine is not superior ha..... I think there is something lost in translation sometimes..
I will post up pics of my sleeve and cuffs this evening
Will get a couple snapped/posted tonight
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Well, right off the bat, this photo proves my point about the cuff section being longer than the forearm section. I haven't seen this design ratio/proportion on any of your coats to date. So, this seems like something you should take onboard. (The green lines below are exactly the same length)
I didn't refuse, the cuffs are bit longer than forearm, It's true.
My comments was about your research.
Spending almost 2 years suddenly you explore the cuff is bit longer.
My comments was about your research.
Spending almost 2 years suddenly you explore the cuff is bit longer.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
This is the last thing I'm going to post about this subject, because I'm starting to repeat myself... The top edge of the cuff section does not run at perpendicular, 90 degree angle with the central sleeve seem. It's angled.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Research is an ongoing process, Jameel. There are some glaring omissions and mistakes that every coat provider made (and still make) and that's part of the reason I decided to get a custom collar made to my specs as well as replacing the shearling, adding the missing magnets etc. So, to answer your question, I'd never given much thought to the sleeves, so I turned my attention to that subject recently, noticed some things that didn't add up and decided to share my thoughts. In any event, I love your work and it's great to see that you're willing to take these new 'findings' onboard. It's a win-win for everyone.
Do you think these cuff are angled?
You are putting all eggs in one bucket.
There are different coats images that you are mixing up I think.
I don't have any issue to make angled cuff for your custom order but not for everyone.
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Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Not sure what you mean by putting my eggs in one bucket nor do I think I'm "mixed up" at all...Lol. I've said two things: A) the cuffs are longer than the forearm and B.) the cuff's top edge does not run at a 90 degree angle with the central sleeve seem, like on your coat and SR... I've provided ample graphic evidence to back up what I'm saying. Now, if you don't want to take that onboard, that's absolutely fine. Not trying to twist anyone's arm here. Just discussing the ins and outs of the coat. (note: the curvature at the bottom of the cuff is different story, and I'm just asking other members because I'm not very familiar with that aspect since my coat doesn't have that feature).
Canvas will usually take any acrylic product well. After all, canvases are made to be painted.
There is also a process used in chambray to get it to have a sheen to it, which involves heat and rolling the fabric, but I am blanking on the name of it. This could be what was meant by laminating, or give a good approximation of the look.
Mechanismo, have you thought of taking the 1/6th measurements from the whole jacket and scaling them, then having a tailor/sewist make the jacket to your exact specs with fabrics you provide?
If you're happy with how the collar scaled, that seems like a reasonable solution.
One limitation that most makers will run into is going to be materials. In terms of accuracy, availability, price, and quantities.
Doing a one off, or even a small run at around 20 or really anything under mass production will be exceptionally expensive.
I've seen a lot of discussion around the pricing of replicas that leave some wanting more out of them in terms of accuracy. Which is understandable. But even at say, $550 usd (thinking about SR and Magnoli), if you're having someone make them to measure, I would wager that at least half of that is eaten by materials, taxes, fees, and space. So at $225 for the maker for what is tens and tens of hours of sewing, let alone drafting, and some wanting the jacket waxed after that (not using waxed canvas, which can easily run $50usd a yard) you are asking a LOT of that maker.
With regard to runs, minimum order quantities on some fabrics, especially special order custom fabrics like that been discussed are crazy expensive, and min orders can be 500 yards. A bolt of fabric you find at a store is generally between 8-12 yards (of course that varies) but just finding storage for that in a small shop is expensive.
I don't really have much to say about the design, as the ones I will be sewing, I will only be sewing and not drafting. The drafting was done from a VERY accurate source, so I am not really looking at this measurement vs that measurement. I don't even anticipate sourcing materials all that much. So frankly, I haven't been on this thread too much. Focusing on wrapping up Deckard before this beast.
With the work that's gone into research on it, some of ya'll can probably take a stab at sewing your own as well. With working on your own jackets, it can be done more towards what you're looking from a jacket replica. If memory serves on the jacket, there's not many, if any, non straight stitches. Just a thought! It's always a good challenge and helps with (at least my own) understanding of the processes used in the screen used item.
jholko
Member
I cant speak for the others here.. but cost is not really my primary concern with the coat. I already purchased a Magnoli and a SR. If there was a SA version available tomorrow for $2k I'd almost certainly drop it in a heart beat. In all the posts in this long thread there are very few where anyone talks about price being a primary consideration... My feeling is most of us are happy to spend the dollars if the coat matches up to the Screen and Prop coats.
Ive said this before.. but my feeling is that the SR is by far the most accurate fabric finish I have seen. The coat is far from perfect in its inaccuracies, but I can live with those (and fix most of them) in time with my tailor by throwing money at it. My Magnoli coat is also very nice, but next to the SR, its fabric just isn't in the same league - and that cant be fixed.
Potential manufacturers should put all their effort into the fabric initially - finding the right fabric is a large part of unlocking the puzzle. Hence, I am seriously considering purchasing a 2nd SR and cutting it up to make a custom SA collar.
It should be possible to do a fully tailored, custom coat run in low quantities that is SA. Such a coat would easily fetch up to 2K I beleive.
I supposed the latter part of your comment is precisely the point I am trying to make, but from a different perspective.
The costs associated with sourcing accurate materials and drafting a pattern that satisfies everyone is a prohibitive.
Most folks can't reasonably be asked to drop 2k on a jacket. When I use $550 as a figure, I am mentioning them as the high end price of what is readily available. Which is real cash to most of us.
Being on a maker side of things, even if I had a team to work with, the risk of floating that capital on a product I know will be very expensive isn't a risk that I can take.
My comment was more intended to recommend folks who really want a "to the t" jacket may want to entertain the idea of working with a dedicated person to make a fully one off jacket. This is as opposed to discussing with garment manufacturing companies (which is how soft parts makers really need to operate - a small garment company) because mass producing a product like this (even made to measure vs fully bespoke - where you adapt your patterns to measurements, vs fully drafting a pattern to the wearer) isn't feasible. It'll never hit all the marks every buyer wants or values.
jholko
Member
It's good to have stock on hand for made Blade Runner fans who want to buy SA coats!
MattBlack
Well-Known Member
Having been a long time user of the old FilmJackets forum and seeing this go wrong so many many times, you have a hard agree from me. 2k for a coat is simply insane, and not "normal person" money. Yes, some hard core passionate fans will be happy to pay that, but enough to justify mass production?
This is a fascinating thread, and the passion and detective work is great to see, it reminds me of the Tyler Durden thread where people have literally got coats made by the actual tailor of the film, and yet still debate the SA of the coats made. It's a rabbit hole!
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Hi Egon,
I’m actually pretty happy with my current coat, actually. I think all the custom amendments (new collar, shearling, magnets, heavy waxing) have really steered it towards something that’s a little more screen accurate. In the meantime, I’ve also been happy to help out fellow forum members that wish to achieve something similar with their coats.
That said, at some point, I would be interested perhaps getting a Zlurpo with all the correct/updated specs and if laminated fabric isn’t available down the line, just having a go at laminating it myself as you describe. As Shahrooz mentioned also, I think he’s going to do just that with his WSL, so it’ll be interesting to see that entire process unfold.
Just curious: you say that the drafting for your K coat comes from a ‘very accurate’ source… Can you elaborate a little? Has whoever drafted the patterns been lucky enough to have access the exact movie coat specs?
And thanks for bringing up the 1/6 figure, btw, I had totally forgotten to check it for other specs... I had another look today, and I have to say, they really got so many things right. For example, I’m seeing that it also has the correct longer-cuff-to-forearm ratio and the angled cuff to boot…
So far, the only retail coat to feature this SA pattern is the WSL:
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