I rest my case, lol.
Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
- Start date
I have always thought the shoulder in the screen used coat looks like a “cap” like that detail had been attached on top of the existing shoulder material. (If that makes sense) This could give the accurate padding/structure that you identified. I think WSL and Zlurpo give this look very well.
As for the shoulder shape to me it’s off in most but i think if the structure you identified can be replicated the shape becomes less obviously innacurate.(maybe?) it would be nice to have it all though-shape and structure.
Here are a couple pics of my SR shoulders , while not accurate i think it looks better than the SR model pics. Or maybe not who knows ….
As for the shoulder shape to me it’s off in most but i think if the structure you identified can be replicated the shape becomes less obviously innacurate.(maybe?) it would be nice to have it all though-shape and structure.
Here are a couple pics of my SR shoulders , while not accurate i think it looks better than the SR model pics. Or maybe not who knows ….
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Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing Malibu139. The "cap," as you put it, looks to have those symmetrical 'eye' dimensions, It's also great to see other details in your photos. I love the color and the fabric. It's kind of a pity that Soul Revolver's shoulders don't have any extra structuring. I wonder, is this something a tailor could do, perhaps?
By the "cap" I mean the whole shoulder from collar out to the "eye" piece. This picture has always lead me to think the shoulders are padded/structured in some way.
There are hardly any wrinkles at the top of the shoulder.
The way it fits him in the movie is almost like a blazer from the chest up then transitioning to a loose sloppier trench/overcoat style.
I could not personally do the long version of this coat- I had one and loved it but just could not pull it off.
That being said my soul revolver is the waist coat that is short, different collar, and has a zipper and poppers.
I "think" the shoulders should be the same as the long coat but I could be wrong. probably could add some padding, but as much as I have vested in alterations and a couple coats now..... I am good.
The material and finish is great on the SR but something that jumps out at me after I posted those is the stitching. It looks like offset white but it is not, the stitching is green like the coat material. it must be the pvc coating reflecting light or something.
The more I look at yours Mechanismo , the more I am freaking loving the collar placement. Are there magnets to help position the collar ?
There are hardly any wrinkles at the top of the shoulder.
The way it fits him in the movie is almost like a blazer from the chest up then transitioning to a loose sloppier trench/overcoat style.
I could not personally do the long version of this coat- I had one and loved it but just could not pull it off.
That being said my soul revolver is the waist coat that is short, different collar, and has a zipper and poppers.
I "think" the shoulders should be the same as the long coat but I could be wrong. probably could add some padding, but as much as I have vested in alterations and a couple coats now..... I am good.
The material and finish is great on the SR but something that jumps out at me after I posted those is the stitching. It looks like offset white but it is not, the stitching is green like the coat material. it must be the pvc coating reflecting light or something.
The more I look at yours Mechanismo , the more I am freaking loving the collar placement. Are there magnets to help position the collar ?
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
SOUL REVOLVER COLLAR: It's not 'a screen replica,' sorry.
Hi guys. scottypavarotti was kind enough to send me this great photo of his Soul Revolver coat.
Placement: pretty much confirming what I suspected: from what I can gather, the collar could be moved to achieve a more screen accurate look. As these movie coat pictures illustrates, the edge of the collar should be one inch past the shoulder panel stitching.
Soul Revolver’s collar, however, appears to be at least double that length.
By moving the collar back, it would also be more flush with the neck, avoid overextending downwards and thus solve their current ‘floppiness’ issue.
Shape and dimensions: The collar appears to be a rectangular piece of fabric with a slight taper on the left (to follow the line of the lapel). So this collar is not curved/tapered. Dimensions-wise, it’s nice and big, which is terrific, but the film coat collar, being curved/tapered, means the outer edges of the collar should be slightly narrower/smaller than the middle section.
I think this film still illustrates that tapered/curvature pretty well. I.e. the area behind the neck is wider than the collar edge.
UPDATE: This oddly placed movie coat clearly shows the collar's curvature and taper:
UPDATE: another clear indicator that Soul Revolver's collar is a rectangular piece (as happens also with Zlurpo and WSL) is when the collar is up. Instead of having a slight funnel shape (i.e. as happens with a tapered/curved collar), it's instead very vertical and tighter around the face..
Here's a side by side comparison shot with my custom collar:
By the way, thanks for your feedback Malibu139 regarding my collar. To answer your question, there are four magnets, one on each corner...
Hi guys. scottypavarotti was kind enough to send me this great photo of his Soul Revolver coat.
Placement: pretty much confirming what I suspected: from what I can gather, the collar could be moved to achieve a more screen accurate look. As these movie coat pictures illustrates, the edge of the collar should be one inch past the shoulder panel stitching.
Soul Revolver’s collar, however, appears to be at least double that length.
By moving the collar back, it would also be more flush with the neck, avoid overextending downwards and thus solve their current ‘floppiness’ issue.
Shape and dimensions: The collar appears to be a rectangular piece of fabric with a slight taper on the left (to follow the line of the lapel). So this collar is not curved/tapered. Dimensions-wise, it’s nice and big, which is terrific, but the film coat collar, being curved/tapered, means the outer edges of the collar should be slightly narrower/smaller than the middle section.
I think this film still illustrates that tapered/curvature pretty well. I.e. the area behind the neck is wider than the collar edge.
UPDATE: This oddly placed movie coat clearly shows the collar's curvature and taper:
UPDATE: another clear indicator that Soul Revolver's collar is a rectangular piece (as happens also with Zlurpo and WSL) is when the collar is up. Instead of having a slight funnel shape (i.e. as happens with a tapered/curved collar), it's instead very vertical and tighter around the face..
Here's a side by side comparison shot with my custom collar:
By the way, thanks for your feedback Malibu139 regarding my collar. To answer your question, there are four magnets, one on each corner...
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Mechanismo, is that a zipper? I had mine done with non screen accurately but custom hook and loop ( not Velcro) attachments. I could have it totally unattached or fully attached or overlapped and connected in different positions. I felt it was screen accurate( it helped on the left) but never considered collar placement was off until you brought it up.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Yes, it is a zipper. Clearly, it's very much a non-screen accurate feature, but handy nonetheless. I love the hook and eye attachment on your Magnoli. Nicely done!
that's what I'm wondering also.
I think it’s a combination of fit and shoulder padding. Getting the fit of a blazer (fitted) in the upper portion and then getting sloppier as the coat gets lower. I don’t think this coat can be fitted screen accurate and be an overcoat at the same time. Its designed and screenworn with only a thin sweater underneath, not a lot of layers beneath . I think that factors in a big way
my tailor told me that the SR is double stitched and that the workmanship is high quality. It is definitely not off white, you're right, it is some shade of green that's not easy to match - I am having the collar moved per M's instructions. Think it will look a lot better with that change. Questions I have then are: do I add shoulder padding - like you said, to the whole shoulder line from collar to eye? Also, think I would need to add a magnet to the longer side of the collar so I can tuck it in and keep it in place. Will be adding magnets throughout anyway.
Final thing is the shearling. that's a big tailoring project but i feel it needs to be done. the color of the shearling now looks better than what it did in the early SR pictures and coats being made (I think they went two shades darker) but the drape..urgh. it looks like bedroom carpet.
I think padding in the exact shape of the shoulder cap would get you close. I am envisioning a pocket that can have inserts of the correct shape with differing firmness.
As for the Shearling , yes it looks like carpet but it is real shearling (i guess that’s a plus in a non accurate sort of way) and the color is closer like you said. For me the fit, material, collar and shoulders would be most important . For ultimate accuracy go for the shearling change too
agreed. that's my biggest beef with SR and I've told them that. they use real quality sheepskin but get the drap and texture wrong. how cool would it be if they spent the cost getting real shearling that has the correct drape, color and texture? I haven't decided yet, but think I'll end up changing the shearling.
Best case is a maker that takes custom orders while getting the screen accurate green material (pvc coated cotton), collar position (including magnets), and shearling correct. At that point padding the shoulder with a tailor would be feasible.
If only one would appear and take over that role
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Since my WSL came with the structured shoulder panels, this is something I've never really stopped to ponder. I went back and forth with my tailor about lots of details, but it never occurred to me to research that a bit more. Can further structuring/padding be added to a SR coat after the fact? I'm sure Egon would be the guy to ask. To my eyes, incidentally, the SR shoulder panels look slightly on the small side. A tad narrow?
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Just as a follow up to my post above: another clear indicator that Soul Revolver's collar is a rectangular piece (as happens also with Zlurpo and WSL) is when the collar is up. Instead of having a slight funnel shape (i.e. as happens with a tapered/curved collar), it's instead very vertical and tighter around the face.
Serious question: is the collar up accuracy really a focal point? I don’t live where it would be cold enough regularly to pop the collar.
As a side note Mechanismo and Shahrooz are making me want to explore getting the long version of this coat again…..
As a side note Mechanismo and Shahrooz are making me want to explore getting the long version of this coat again…..
Not sure about focal point but I do agree with Mechanismo that the funnel shape just looks better.
Glad to hear that. I still dont understand why you gave up on that gorgeous piece of clothing. I am sure you can pull it off. Update on my alterations and a minor setback. Fur I had selected turned out to be subpar quality, as you know. Tailor confirmed that it would be a mistake to replace real sheepskin with my faux sherpa only to have to replace it again when the sherpa breaks down in the future. So the search continues. Looks like I will need to make a trip to LA's 'fashion district' (questionable part of town) to find what I'm looking for. Tailor says that it doesnt make sense to move the collar without also replacing the shearling at the same time and i see his point. In the meantime, if anyone wants pictures, happy to post them with the coat as is. Pretty much looks like Scotty's in his post from a week or so ago, but still, happy to do it. I hope to have the replacement shearling by the end of next week so the finished coat should be 3 or 4 weeks away. Fingers crossed.
