Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

[johncarbon1991]

Completely agree with this Mechanismo. As someone who owns the SR version and paid a fairly hefty price for it, more accuracy in its choice of construction would have been more welcomed to really qualify as a 'replica' of the original

Had a bit of a breakthrough with Soul Revolver (maybe?). More than a few emails back and forth, but I expressed how much interest there was in this thread in an accurate version of the coat. They claim the collar is folded incorrectly in the photos shown (not sure I believe that) but as far as the collar fabric is concerned, they said they're going to try and source an alternative shearling. They couldn't give an estimate as to when they'd have it, but they said they would try. Not sure if it's worth holding off on placing an order until they update it, but my advice is if you want them to adjust the coat, send them screenshots from this thread. I'm thinking they'll make the other alterations too if enough potential customers express interest.

Regardless everything I've heard from other people says it's a top-notch coat as-is. Hopefully it'll get even better (fingers crossed)

 

[Mechanismo]

For what it’s worth, my size L Soul Revolver jacket just arrived and fits me very well (to recap, I’m 183 cm, 77-78kg, 110cm chest (43inches) and wear 31-32 inch jeans. I certainly need the L in the shoulders but it fits pretty well with a sweater under it. So far a little creased from shipping but it’s obviously a good quality jacket and certainly very warm.
I’m arguably not obsessed with 100% screen accuracy, but it certainly gives the vibe of the screen coat and I’m really happy with it. I’ve got a spare couple of inches around the waist so I might get an additional fastener to tighten that up a bit.View attachment 1484998

Hey Scotty,
Congrats on the coat! It looks smart on you and I think that's deffo the right size. The great thing about these coats is that you can take them to a local tailor if you need slight alterations (or even big ones like replacing the shearling or the entire collar for a new one).

Right off the bat, I'm seeing the same issues/inaccuracies with the collar that I've been pointing out. That said, as of yet, I haven't had the opportunity to get a close/proper look the actual shape and size of the collar. So can I ask you for a favor? When you get a minute, could you send a photo like the one below? Essentially, just spread it out on a table and take a shot from above. I think this would yield a bit more information in terms of dimensions and shape. Cheers!

 

[Mechanismo]

Had a bit of a breakthrough with Soul Revolver (maybe?). More than a few emails back and forth, but I expressed how much interest there was in this thread in an accurate version of the coat. They claim the collar is folded incorrectly in the photos shown (not sure I believe that) but as far as the collar fabric is concerned, they said they're going to try and source an alternative shearling. They couldn't give an estimate as to when they'd have it, but they said they would try. Not sure if it's worth holding off on placing an order until they update it, but my advice is if you want them to adjust the coat, send them screenshots from this thread. I'm thinking they'll make the other alterations too if enough potential customers express interest.

Regardless everything I've heard from other people says it's a top-notch coat as-is. Hopefully it'll get even better (fingers crossed)

Hi John, thanks for the update. SR says the "collar is folded incorrectly" meaning what exactly? Could you clarify that a bit further? I'm waiting to see a picture I've asked Scotty to take of his new coat of specifically the collar. My gut tells me it's just a straight rectangular piece instead of a tapered, curved SA one. Shahrooz's SR with the moved collar and new shearling should look pretty wicked once he gets it back from the tailor too.

 

[johncarbon1991]

Hi John, thanks for the update. SR says the "collar is folded incorrectly" meaning what exactly? Could you clarify that a bit further? I'm waiting to see a picture I've asked Scotty to take of his new coat of specifically the collar. My gut tells me it's just a straight rectangular piece instead of a tapered, curved SA one. Shahrooz's SR with the moved collar and new shearling should look pretty wicked once he gets it back from the tailor too.

I wish I could. The literal reply was "The customer images in your email is an early version. It is shorter and without much distress treatment. The collar folds correctly. This customer has chosen to fold it differently." I don't know whether they didn't understand, or were dismissing the collar being inaccurate. The more comparisons/screenshots people can provide, the better and I can certainly send to them. Maybe Shahrooz has a more accurate collar than the one from the other customer?

 

[Mechanismo]

I wish I could. The literal reply was "The customer images in your email is an early version. It is shorter and without much distress treatment. The collar folds correctly. This customer has chosen to fold it differently." I don't know whether they didn't understand, or were dismissing the collar being inaccurate. The more comparisons/screenshots people can provide, the better and I can certainly send to them. Maybe Shahrooz has a more accurate collar than the one from the other customer?

Hi John, once scottypavarotti posts the photo I've asked him for, I'll be better able to pinpoint exactly what you have to tell SR, along with some no-brainer visual aids.

 

[Egon]

Hi Joberg, I assume you're addressing me? (correct me if I'm wrong though!)

Thanks for your feedback. And yeah, I totally get that different people demand/expect varying degrees of accuracy when it comes to these things. Fair enough. I think it's safe to say, however, the folks on this forum (and RPF in general) are more likely to be the kind of fans who are interested in achieving the highest degree of screen accuracy.

I got into this discussion relatively late in the day -2020- but through hours of research, experimenting, custom specs, sourcing new shearlings, local tailors, etc, clearly, there are new and more accurate ways to achieve a greater degree of screen accuracy regarding this coat. I'm trying to see if Egon, with his mind-blowing Deckard coat replica, can throw his hat in the ring here and construct an Officer K coat from the ground up. I'm sure he'd do an amazing job and it would be a treat to see how he did it.

In the meantime, I've updated my Officer K Coat Providers chart with Magnoli's new improvements. Let’s see what a fan-tweaked Soul Revolver that’s coming down the pike brings to the table.

Cheers!

Thanks for the shoutout! The Deckard coat has been a large (and still ongoing) project with Mark.

Definitely hoping to tackle K in the near future. It is a very intense build though, along with some other factors, offering Deckard or K jackets isn't something I am equipped to do.

Loving this thread though, and all the breakdowns of different jackets.

 

[Mechanismo]

The shoulder panels!

Just some quick discussion regarding the shoulder panels. This is an issue that varies wildly among the coat providers with varying degrees of success.

So the first debate to be resolved: padded or non-padded? What is the most screen accurate? Well, from what I can tell, most of the time Gosling was wearing a coat with padded shoulder panels during shooting. However, there appears to be a coat he wore for a specific promo shoot that appears to have no padding.

MOVIE COAT PADDING:

'PROMO COAT' - NO PADDING ?:

Soul Revolver and Magnoli perhaps took their cue from this last 'promo' coat, which -to be fair- is just as 'legit' as one with padded shoulders. I guess it boils down to a matter taste and what look you're after. Padding aside, for a moment, sadly none of the coat providers get the shoulder panels exactly right on the money.

Some examples of design inaccuracies:

Soul Revolver: non-padded

(Note: shoulder panels are clearly padded on the movie coat)

WHITE SHEEP LEATHER: padded

MAGNOLI: non-padded

I'll see if I can fetch some examples from Zurlpo in my next post.
Cheers!

 

[Egon]

The shoulder panels!

Just some quick discussion regarding the shoulder panels. This is an issue that varies wildly among the coat providers with varying degrees of success.

So the first debate to be resolved: padded or non-padded? What is the most screen accurate? Well, from what I can tell, most of the time Gosling was wearing a coat with padded shoulder panels during shooting. However, there appears to be a coat he wore for a specific promo shoot that appears to have no padding.

MOVIE COAT PADDING:

View attachment 1485248

'PROMO COAT' - NO PADDING ?:

View attachment 1485249

Soul Revolver and Magnoli perhaps took their cue from this last 'promo' coat, which -to be fair- is just as 'legit' as one with padded shoulders. I guess it boils down to a matter taste and what look you're after. Padding aside, for a moment, sadly none of the coat providers get the shoulder panels exactly right on the money.

Some examples of design inaccuracies:

Soul Revolver: non-padded

View attachment 1485271
(Note: shoulder panels are clearly padded on the movie coat)

WHITE SHEEP LEATHER: padded

View attachment 1485274

MAGNOLI: non-padded

View attachment 1485275

I'll see if I can fetch some examples from Zurlpo in my next post.
Cheers!

When you say shoulder padding, are you referring to structuring, like a blazer, or specifically padding under the patches on the shoulders? Reminds me of Han Solo's jacket from Empire. There were definitely at least two, one appearing to be more structured than the other (along with other differences)

 

[Mechanismo]

When you say shoulder padding, are you referring to structuring, like a blazer, or specifically padding under the patches on the shoulders? Reminds me of Han Solo's jacket from Empire. There were definitely at least two, one appearing to be more structured than the other (along with other differences)

Thanks for pointing that out Egon. Clearly, I'll defer to you regarding the design-construction-tailoring terminology and concepts. I'm pretty clueless about that. When I mean padding, I'm referring to extra texture to make the shoulder panels slightly more rigid and smooth in appearance. So I guess that would mean structure, correct? Amazing to get your feedback here, btw!

 

[Egon]

Thanks for pointing that out Egon. Clearly, I'll defer to you regarding the design-construction-tailoring terminology and concepts. I'm pretty clueless about that. When I mean padding, I'm referring to extra texture to make the shoulder panels slightly more rigid and smooth in appearance. So I guess that would mean structure, correct? Amazing to get your feedback here, btw!

Gotcha! I'd imagine that there are a few differences in construction among them which can make things hard to nail down. Add to that weathering etc.

I am curious as to how the shearling is integrated into the canvas of the collar and lapel. It is unusual to see the edge of the cotton like on these jackets vs a bomber style jacket etc that have it extend to the edges.

 

[TurnipyOdour]

The shoulder panels!

Just some quick discussion regarding the shoulder panels. This is an issue that varies wildly among the coat providers with varying degrees of success.

So the first debate to be resolved: padded or non-padded? What is the most screen accurate? Well, from what I can tell, most of the time Gosling was wearing a coat with padded shoulder panels during shooting. However, there appears to be a coat he wore for a specific promo shoot that appears to have no padding.

MOVIE COAT PADDING:

View attachment 1485248

'PROMO COAT' - NO PADDING ?:

View attachment 1485249

Soul Revolver and Magnoli perhaps took their cue from this last 'promo' coat, which -to be fair- is just as 'legit' as one with padded shoulders. I guess it boils down to a matter taste and what look you're after. Padding aside, for a moment, sadly none of the coat providers get the shoulder panels exactly right on the money.

Some examples of design inaccuracies:

Soul Revolver: non-padded

View attachment 1485271
(Note: shoulder panels are clearly padded on the movie coat)

WHITE SHEEP LEATHER: padded

View attachment 1485274

MAGNOLI: non-padded

View attachment 1485275

I'll see if I can fetch some examples from Zurlpo in my next post.
Cheers!

The coat in the bottom right of your padded shoulder collage looks like the same coat as in the promo no padding image. They've both got the same kinks in the shearling.

Here's another image from the same promo shoot. This definitely looks padded.
Maybe the coat had shoulder pads that were removeable?

 

[Mechanismo]

The coat in the bottom right of your padded shoulder collage looks like the same coat as in the promo no padding image. They've both got the same kinks in the shearling.

View attachment 1485468

Here's another image from the same promo shoot. This definitely looks padded.
Maybe the coat had shoulder pads that were removeable?

View attachment 1485469

Well spotted, TurnipyOdour. What threw me off is the how craggily and wrinkled (less structured?) the shoulder panel looks in the upper left hand pic:

Perhaps it's also a matter of the lighting in that shot.

 

[TurnipyOdour]

Well spotted, TurnipyOdour. What threw me off is the how craggily and wrinkled (less structured?) the shoulder panel looks in the upper left hand pic:
View attachment 1485470

Perhaps it's also a matter of the lighting in that shot.

You can actually see the same wrinkles in both shots but I agree that the lighting is probably affecting how it looks.

As Egon mentioned it might be structuring rather than actual padding that gives the shoulders that rigid shape.

 

[Mechanismo]

Gotcha! I'd imagine that there are a few differences in construction among them which can make things hard to nail down. Add to that weathering etc.

I am curious as to how the shearling is integrated into the canvas of the collar and lapel. It is unusual to see the edge of the cotton like on these jackets vs a bomber style jacket etc that have it extend to the edges.

Egon, regarding your question about the shearling and how it integrates into the canvass of the collar/lapel.

Let me preface that I first ordered a WSL coat that came with this pretty awful GOT-style faux fur.

Ultimately, I had a separate, bigger, curved custom collar made with new specs and, crucially also, sourced a sherpa style shearling (that may even be what they used in the film, based on April Renne's description of it):

I then had a tailor replace the old faux fur with this sherpa shearling as well as replacing the old collar with custom one (also shifting it slightly further back, as follows).
(Film coat on the left)

So, relating to your question: here are some shots of how that sherpa shearing ended up relating to the original WSL cotton canvas:

 

[Mechanismo]

You can actually see the same wrinkles in both shots but I agree that the lighting is probably affecting how it looks.

As Egon mentioned it might be structuring rather than actual padding that gives the shoulders that rigid shape.

Thanks for that, TurnipyOdour . Then yes, more than padding it's the structure I'm referring to, That said, it'll be interesting to discover new details about the actual padding and structure intertwine on this coat.

 

[johncarbon1991]

Here you have it. Soul Revolvers final word on the matter, straight from the designer:
"
A note from our designer regarding the Blade Runner jacket:
There are many versions of the original coat. Our research discovered that the 'collar up coat' is different to the 'collar down coat'. You can clearly see how the collar is NOT attached to the lapel when it is up and the collar IS attached to the lapel when it is folded down so in our belief, it is cut differently so we needed to make one coat which works both up and down for practicality and comfort.

We are not making any changes to the pattern at this time, nor have we made any suggestion that we will. Ryan Goslings coat was made tailored to him. Forum adjusted coats are also customised to fit an individual. Our coat has to fit a wide range of customer - from a 6' 5" man with a 37" chest to a 5'7" man with a 48" stomach. People with thin necks, fat necks, short or long. The collar has had many, many alterations to get it to fit a wide range of people. We had the collar sitting higher, as you and a few others have suggested, and lower. We found a good medium (for up and down position) which works for our customers based on our very low returns for this style.

Regarding the shearling. The original coat is made of cheap faux fur according to the designer. She wanted to make a coat which reflected the standard of living for officer K. He didn't have much money and a small apartment so the coat reflected that. We did not want to use a cheap faux material as it would not stand the test of time - abrasions, stubble, food and liquids, weather, cleaning etc. We make our coats to last and this high end shearling will definitely last more than a faux, budget material will.
We will be going into our busy period soon and our Italians are currently on holiday but I mentioned I would see what alternative options may be out there but this could take a very long time. Also, it will not be a faux material as that is not what we specialise in.
As mentioned above, the coat is cut this way for many reasons but we are not stubborn enough not to take a look at areas which we can work on, like the shearling.

I hope you and your fellow forum members can understand our compromises."

 

[Mechanismo]

Here you have it. Soul Revolvers final word on the matter, straight from the designer:
"
A note from our designer regarding the Blade Runner jacket:
There are many versions of the original coat. Our research discovered that the 'collar up coat' is different to the 'collar down coat'. You can clearly see how the collar is NOT attached to the lapel when it is up and the collar IS attached to the lapel when it is folded down so in our belief, it is cut differently so we needed to make one coat which works both up and down for practicality and comfort.

We are not making any changes to the pattern at this time, nor have we made any suggestion that we will. Ryan Goslings coat was made tailored to him. Forum adjusted coats are also customised to fit an individual. Our coat has to fit a wide range of customer - from a 6' 5" man with a 37" chest to a 5'7" man with a 48" stomach. People with thin necks, fat necks, short or long. The collar has had many, many alterations to get it to fit a wide range of people. We had the collar sitting higher, as you and a few others have suggested, and lower. We found a good medium (for up and down position) which works for our customers based on our very low returns for this style.

Regarding the shearling. The original coat is made of cheap faux fur according to the designer. She wanted to make a coat which reflected the standard of living for officer K. He didn't have much money and a small apartment so the coat reflected that. We did not want to use a cheap faux material as it would not stand the test of time - abrasions, stubble, food and liquids, weather, cleaning etc. We make our coats to last and this high end shearling will definitely last more than a faux, budget material will.
We will be going into our busy period soon and our Italians are currently on holiday but I mentioned I would see what alternative options may be out there but this could take a very long time. Also, it will not be a faux material as that is not what we specialise in.
As mentioned above, the coat is cut this way for many reasons but we are not stubborn enough not to take a look at areas which we can work on, like the shearling.

I hope you and your fellow forum members can understand our compromises."

Thanks for this. Hopefully scottypavarotti can get post that pic I asked for and we can assess all the details to simply and plainly point out how they can improve the collar with a few minor changes. For example, just moving the collar back slightly to be more flush with the neck is simple and would improve the coat's look right away, IMO.

Also, I'm not convinced by their claim that there are different coats for when the collar is deployed or "collar up" as they say. The movie collar is big -and even bulky/messy- when it's folded down, precisely because that same collar must comfortably wrap around the wearer's face in a curved, funneled fashion when deployed. If they wanted a different coat for the 'collar down' look (which is most of the movie) they would no doubt have equipped it with a collar that was a bit more streamlined. But they didn't.

This is what I mean:

In any event, some more reference pics.

 

[Shahrooz]

I wish I could. The literal reply was "The customer images in your email is an early version. It is shorter and without much distress treatment. The collar folds correctly. This customer has chosen to fold it differently." I don't know whether they didn't understand, or were dismissing the collar being inaccurate. The more comparisons/screenshots people can provide, the better and I can certainly send to them. Maybe Shahrooz has a more accurate collar than the one from the other customer?

I too will take the pic Mechanismo is requesting once I get the coat back!

 

[Szx]

Who has sweaters from the movie?

 

[Shahrooz]

Who has sweaters from the movie?

you'll have to be more specific. Do you mean the actual sweaters Gosling wore? No one. Do you mean sweaters that are similar/identical to the sweaters he wore in the movie? That has been extensively covered in this thread so you can search for past discussion posts. I think Rag and Bone used to make a sweater that looked almost identical but there were other brands as well. I'm sure you can find some out there still. I recently found a Boss ribbed sweater that looks very similar to Gosling's in the movie.