Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

[Malibu139]

I have experience with the Magnoli coat and the Soul revolver(waist/hip coat not trench but same material)
I really liked the Magnoli. The magnets allowed the collar to lay perfectly once broken in. I get the collar might not have been far enough back to be screen accurate but it was a fantastic coat.

There is lots of focus and attention on the collar placement, shearling, and shoulders(padded/supported or not). IMO if the ultimate goal is screen accuracy and all the listed factors can be tailored /altered after the purchase then it comes down to one thing: Material accuracy.
For material accuracy the only choice is Soul revolver. Its screen accurate aged cotton covered in a PC acrylic gives the leather like sheen that waxed cotton cant come close to. As far as I can tell all other versions are a cotton material that may or may not be waxed.

IMO having had a waxed cotton version and SR version the Soul revolver is the best base to start from. Then change the collar placement and shearling and maybe a couple magnets in the collar if 100 percent screen accuracy is the goal .

Just my 2cents, I couldn't pull off a trench coat look regularly... lol

 

[Shahrooz]

I have experience with the Magnoli coat and the Soul revolver(waist/hip coat not trench but same material)
I really liked the Magnoli. The magnets allowed the collar to lay perfectly once broken in. I get the collar might not have been far enough back to be screen accurate but it was a fantastic coat.

There is lots of focus and attention on the collar placement, shearling, and shoulders(padded/supported or not). IMO if the ultimate goal is screen accuracy and all the listed factors can be tailored /altered after the purchase then it comes down to one thing: Material accuracy.
For material accuracy the only choice is Soul revolver. Its screen accurate aged cotton covered in a PC acrylic gives the leather like sheen that waxed cotton cant come close to. As far as I can tell all other versions are a cotton material that may or may not be waxed.

IMO having had a waxed cotton version and SR version the Soul revolver is the best base to start from. Then change the collar placement and shearling and maybe a couple magnets in the collar if 100 percent screen accuracy is the goal .

Just my 2cents, I couldn't not pull off a trench coat look regularly... lol

I couldnt agree more with your post. Everything you said is exactly how I feel about this. It is hard to explain to those who havent seen the SR coat in person - and I was very very skeptical about it also. I have a ton of Belstaff and Barbour coats and love waxed cotton material. SR has achieved something unique - I didnt fully understand the fascination with the material and coat from most of those that I contacted and who were kind enough to share their thoughts but now I get it. You are right - it takes a lot of work to get it to SA. Perhaps one day a coat maker will take cues from these posts and possibly's Egon's prototype and produce the coat to end all discussion. Until then, to me, taking the SR and replacing the shearling, moving the collar and inserting more magnets produces the most SA coat that at the same time looks just killer. Even for every say cold weather use.

 

[Indy Magnoli]

Szx Here is our version: 2049 Shirt by Magnoli Clothiers

 

[Mechanismo]

BARBOUR RE-WAXING!

Hi guys,

In case anyone was interested in the waxing issue, I thought I'd share some photos of my coat and how it looks after its second Barbour waxing. I first waxed about a year ago, in summer of 2020 and decided to give it the full treatment again.

First off, this is what the coat looked like a before:

I used the classic soft sponge+hairdryer method, panel by panel. I used exactly one can of Barbour wax.

The result. This shot was taken about three weeks later, allowing for the wax to settle in. As you can see, with this second coating darkens the coat as well as adding a distinctive, deep tone and sheen to it. Clearly, the wax also adds weight to the coat and brings out its character, defining its creases and contours.

This last picture clearly shows the difference between the original cotton fabric and after both layers of waxing.

 

[Shahrooz]

BARBOUR RE-WAXING!

Hi guys,

In case anyone was interested in the waxing issue, I thought I'd share some photos of my coat and how it looks after its second Barbour waxing. I first waxed about a year ago, in summer of 2020 and decided to give it the full treatment again.

First off, this is what the coat looked like a before:

View attachment 1486164

I used the classic soft sponge+hairdryer method, panel by panel. I used exactly one can of Barbour wax.

View attachment 1486159

The result. This shot was taken about three weeks later, allowing for the wax to settle in. As you can see, with this second coating darkens the coat as well as adding a distinctive, deep tone and sheen to it. Clearly, the wax also adds weight to the coat and brings out its character, defining its creases and contours.

View attachment 1486161

View attachment 1486162

This last picture clearly shows the difference between the original cotton fabric and after both layers of waxing.

View attachment 1486163

that looks phenomenal, Mechanismo.

 

[Malibu139]

Again if we are talking screen accuracy get the Soul Revolver sans the mess, weight and hassle of a waxed cotton coat.
Then you can change everything else needed to be screen accurate (collar, shearling, shoulders) like all the versions, including WSL.
If you go with waxed cotton pray it doesn't rain b/c the coat will weigh 3 times more and take forever to dry.

I am confused why there would be so much focus on screen accuracy and then go with waxed cotton and snaps when the screen used coat used pc acrylic coated cotton and magnets?

 

[Mechanismo]

Again if we are talking screen accuracy get the Soul Revolver sans the mess, weight and hassle of a waxed cotton coat.
Then you can change everything else needed to be screen accurate (collar, shearling, shoulders) like all the others, including WSL.
If you go with waxed cotton pray it doesn't rain b/c the coat will weigh 3 times more and take forever to dry.

I am confused why there would be so much focus on screen accuracy and then go with waxed cotton and snaps when the screen used coat used pc coated cotton and magnets?g

Hi Malibu139, granted, there are many things that aren't screen accurate with my coat. I added things like the snaps (for riding on a bike they come in very handy) the magnets, however, while not 100% correctly placed, were used on the film coat in those areas for the coat to close. I didn't get the writing on the back either. I was mainly interested in achieving something pretty crucial that the various coat providers have consistently gotten wrong. That is to say, is the collar size, dimensions, placement and the correct shearling. The other stuff, for example, like the not so great WSL shoulder panels, I can live with. I'm not sure why you say properly waxed coats get drenched... Waxing is a tried and tested waterproofing method, albeit somewhat old fashioned. My coat held up nicely during the rainy season with its first coating.

But yes, I do agree that getting a SR and giving it the royal treatment would be amazing.

 

[Malibu139]

Hi Malibu139, granted, there are many things that aren't screen accurate with my coat. I added things like the snaps (for riding on a bike they come in very handy) the magnets, however, while not 100% correctly placed, were used on the film coat in those areas for the coat to close. I didn't get the writing on the back either. I was mainly interested in achieving something pretty crucial that the various coat providers have consistently gotten wrong. That is to say, is the collar size, dimensions, placement and the correct shearling. The other stuff, for example, like the not so great WSL shoulder panels, I can live with. I'm not sure why you say properly waxed coats get drenched... Waxing is a tried and tested waterproofing method, albeit somewhat old fashioned. My coat held up nicely during the rainy season with its first coating.

But yes, I do agree that getting a SR and giving it the royal treatment would be amazing.

My waxed cotton was heavy and not breathable when wet.
The soul revolver doesn't soak the water when wet. its not breathable but is not weighted down.

Just giving a different perspective for folks trying to get a screen accurate collar AND material .
If this thread had all this info 3 years ago it might have saved me a few hundred bucks.
No disrespect intended your coat is fantastic

 

[Mechanismo]

My waxed cotton was heavy and not breathable when wet.
The soul revolver doesn't soak the water when wet. its not breathable but is not weighted down.

Just giving a different perspective for folks trying to get a screen accurate collar AND material .
If this thread had all this info 3 years ago it might have saved me a few hundred bucks.
No disrespect intended your coat is fantastic

If this thread had all this info 3 years ago it might have saved me a few hundred bucks.

Yeah, I hear you. I only joined RPF last year after discovering this forum. I was surprised to see how, specifically, the collar dimensions and placement issue was largely overlooked or simply taken for granted as being accurate. The shearling as well (although this topic was discussed more, from what I can gather). So, for my part, that's what motivated me to get a separate, larger custom collar made (using measurements from a 1:6 coat of all things), shift its placement somewhat and also track down better shearling.

I can't wait for Egon to finally put all of these details to bed when he constructs his coat.

Just giving a different perspective for folks trying to get a screen accurate collar AND material .

That's great and I think you're right; there are loads of combos here, especially with SR, that can no doubt yield something really interesting.

 

[benhs1898]

Thanks for the update Indy Magnoli.

Looking nice! That shorter collar side, now independent from the left lapel, is a huge improvement. That right lapel also appears to be larger, which is great to see too.

Slightly off topic: If I may, I’d like to constructively point something out where, to my eyes, there is clearly some room for improvement in terms of screen accuracy: the shoulder panels.

(note: I overlapped both these two pictures first, to make sure they were more or less to scale).
The movie coat has decidedly narrower -and slightly padded- shoulder panels as shown:

View attachment 1484604
Aside from the different shape, dimensions and the padding, the Magnoli coat pictured on the left, also has an extra seam going down the middle of the shoulder panel. Has this issue also been addressed?

View attachment 1484075

I’m assuming those oval shapes are hidden magnets, correct…? Although they are a little noticeable, something that size is no doubt a smart practical decision and a great way for the coat to to remain firmly closed. It’s a tradeoff. I also have trouble with the magnets on my custom coat sometimes.

Lastly, a question if I may regarding the collar: Is your new collar design slightly tapered or just a straight, rectangular piece that wraps around? IMHO, the the positioning, shape and dimensions of the collar is what's most critical to -at long last- getting this coat right.

Anyway, nice improvements and thanks again for sharing.

All the best,

Sebastian

Hey, you used some photos from other users here including mine. Please try to credit people in the future.

 

[Mechanismo]

Hey, you used some photos from other users here including mine. Please try to credit people in the future.

I didn't realize you had to ask permission to use other photos posted in this thread to illustrate a topic that we are all discussing... Especially if they are being used specifically to further our understanding of the coat's details and how it can be improved for everyone's benefit. But that said, I get your point as well. Apologies.

 

[benhs1898]

I didn't realize you had to ask permission to use other photos posted in this thread to illustrate a topic that we are all discussing... Especially if they are being used specifically to further our understanding of the coat's details and how it can be improved for everyone's benefit. But that said, I get your point as well. Apologies.

You don’t have to, it’s just a considerate best practice.

 

[Malibu139]

I also think since the discussion has steered toward screen accuracy, we need to address all aspects of screen accuracy.
There is more to it than collar position and shearling drape.
So those who are researching screen accuracy can have all the info. Maybe the diagram can be updated with material accuracy as well.
The info that the screen used coat is not waxed cotton can get buried in 70 pages of posts.
Maybe add a cost/value vs screen accuracy column as well. That way accuracy concessions can relate to informed purchases.

 

[Mechanismo]

I also think since the discussion has steered toward screen accuracy, we need to address all aspects of screen accuracy.
There is more to it than collar position and shearling drape.
So those who are researching screen accuracy can have all the info. Maybe the diagram can be updated with material accuracy as well.
The info that the screen used coat is not waxed cotton can get buried in 70 pages of posts.
Maybe add a cost/value vs screen accuracy column as well. That way accuracy concessions can relate to informed purchases.

Agreed. All great ideas. And no one's saying it's only about the collar and shearling. This week I posted about the shoulder panels to see if we can delve a little deeper in that regard, for instance. Discussion on the fabric would be great too.

 

[Malibu139]

Yea the zlurpo and WSL shoulders are real close to accurate IMO. Then SR material is accurate but then no matter what you have to either make a collar and shearling concession or tailorafter the fact.
Would be nice to combine features from multiple jackets.

Thoughts on the screen used sleeves being short? I wouldn’t go that far for accuracy personally.

Again all this info would have been great a couple years back

 

[SCREENS]

Who has sweaters from the movie?

i have.

 

[scottypavarotti]

Hey Scotty,
Congrats on the coat! It looks smart on you and I think that's deffo the right size. The great thing about these coats is that you can take them to a local tailor if you need slight alterations (or even big ones like replacing the shearling or the entire collar for a new one).

Right off the bat, I'm seeing the same issues/inaccuracies with the collar that I've been pointing out. That said, as of yet, I haven't had the opportunity to get a close/proper look the actual shape and size of the collar. So can I ask you for a favor? When you get a minute, could you send a photo like the one below? Essentially, just spread it out on a table and take a shot from above. I think this would yield a bit more information in terms of dimensions and shape. Cheers!

View attachment 1485204

Hey buddy, sorry for the delay in reply. I was offline for a few days. Happy to help, there’re some folks on this forum that have been super-helpful to me. Is the one photo below what you’re looking for? I’m happy to post more, just ask.

 

[Shahrooz]

Hey buddy, sorry for the delay in reply. I was offline for a few days. Happy to help, there’re some folks on this forum that have been super-helpful to me. Is the one photo below what you’re looking for? I’m happy to post more, just ask.

very much looking forward to Mechanismo's analysis of the SR collar here. I personally think it would be best to keep the discussion here productive and cordial. In my mind, no one has done more to further the 'cause' here than Mechanismo. He must have selflessly spent numerous hours helping me and others determine the differences between the various makers. Further, the many posts with detailed analysis, pictures and suggestions. Some of the suggestions above from the past few days are fantastic and perhaps can be added to the existing, thorough analysis and comparison chart. This is a team effort and I think it's great people are chiming in and helping one another. I know i owe a debt of gratitude to several people on this thread. I just think we could do with less negativity and critique and instead be more constructive and supportive. The discussion about screen accuracy has to be held but I think we need to also discuss overall quality of the various coats offered. Without the joint effort of everyone here, none of these coat makers would have incorporated the changes they have since made to their respective designs and let's be honest, some of the coats offered early 2018 really left a lot to be desired. I for one enjoy the various viewpoints and contributions from everyone tremendously and am glad I stumbled upon this forum.

 

[Mechanismo]

Shoulder panel discussion (Cont.)!

Okay guys, just following up on the post from earlier this week, I think it would be great if we could keep discussing the shoulder panels.

Now, I believe every (most?) coat providers get this crucial element wrong and I think the reason can be chalked up to simple geometry. Perhaps perspective has everything to do with this, but to my eyes, at least, the movie coat's shoulder panel's outer edge is definitely shaped like a symmetrical eye. Hopefully, I can illustrate that here:

WSL, Soul Revolver and Zlurpo, again, to my eyes, achieve mixed results. WSL has a nice structured shoulder panel but crucially it is asymmetrical in terms of its "eye." For lack of a better term, it is lopsided or droopy. Soul Revolver as well. Zlurpo, however, seems to have two options available (?), one symmetrical and the other lopsided. Have a gander:

I will avoid posting old photos from Magnoli, since Indy Magnoli has stated that their coat has undergone recent changes in terms of the shoulder panes (and other details.). We look forward to seeing photos of these improvements soon!

 

[Mechanismo]

very much looking forward to Mechanismo's analysis of the SR collar here. I personally think it would be best to keep the discussion here productive and cordial. In my mind, no one has done more to further the 'cause' here than Mechanismo. He must have selflessly spent numerous hours helping me and others determine the differences between the various makers. Further, the many posts with detailed analysis, pictures and suggestions. Some of the suggestions above from the past few days are fantastic and perhaps can be added to the existing, thorough analysis and comparison chart. This is a team effort and I think it's great people are chiming in and helping one another. I know i owe a debt of gratitude to several people on this thread. I just think we could do with less negativity and critique and instead be more constructive and supportive. The discussion about screen accuracy has to be held but I think we need to also discuss overall quality of the various coats offered. Without the joint effort of everyone here, none of these coat makers would have incorporated the changes they have since made to their respective designs and let's be honest, some of the coats offered early 2018 really left a lot to be desired. I for one enjoy the various viewpoints and contributions from everyone tremendously and am glad I stumbled upon this forum.

Thank you and well stated Shahrooz . It's true that we're trying to give many aspects of the coat a new perspective and that's a win-win for everyone.