point number two:
collar,
piping effects (and stitching details) and
fur.
Well, there is little to say, on SR there are too many inaccuracies and Jameel's model wins on all fronts, apart from the SA or not issue, it needs to be modified, because imo it is still nicer and that's it, except for the size issue, on that the pic explains itself.
Considering that this size L that they sold me as a "regular fit" inviting me to take a M if I wanted it "snug", instead it is even slightly tight on me with the sweater, the collar is instead wonderfully wider, suitable for some modifications, and above all, I don't think it's true that if you modify the position by moving it back, the right lapel must necessarily widen too much when opened, it could simply be necessary to create some structures (like what I had already done with the buckram) inside the triangular part of the lapels that turns when open, so that they hold the limits of the shape better, but if I decided to try to put piping in a radical way and maybe partially redo the stitching on the edges, I could still shorten them if they are too wide and have some room for maneuver, but in any case the upper edge of the lapels is 4-5cm shorter than Jameel's which are perfect, so in my opinion, instead it would be fine to do it.
However, I don't think I will go for such twisting on the collar at all costs, but I believe in my theory, which was about just shortening the right side of it at the base, so then curving it more to give also the protruding when folded, avoiding to shift it, and not protruding the left part over the left lapel junction instead, it should close the same because it's way longer than my bep and the room for that is relevant, the pic speaks for itself about how much wider SR collar is if compared to my bep (which now closes anyway).
I definitely have to add a collar stand and some buckram inside the collar to give better shape, together with other magnets for the various functions that here, are completely absent (I cannot understand how other SR owners are able to withstand the proper open shape and even the simplest closure effectively, if they have not tweaked all those details).
The left lapel-collar joint made without the 4 seams, on the other hand, is very beautiful and functional, it doesn't let air through, if you lengthen the lapels a little (obviously having to do it on the left too if you do it on the right to move the collar attachment a little), we'll see if it will hold equally well.
The curvature of the lapels, on the other hand, seems really excessive to me, and in terms of doing all that hard work, if I ever do it, I could just shorten it and make it straighter once I get to the final stage of the eventual work, so it would be perfect.
The fur, I have to admit that it does indeed seem a bit like a carpet, but in any case it is of quality to the touch and has a very pleasant effect when worn, certainly if I take it off I would keep it as valuable spare parts, but as an idea, I would be strongly encouraged to put the same SA fur I put on my BEP.
Many seamlines are better on my bep, for instance I simply prefer hiding my magnets (possibly avoiding the super glue, though) without squaring them as on the SR, I will evaluate what possible without letting holes or unsightly parts.
The doublestitched seamline at the base of the neck, it's not there on SR (just a simple junctional neck-shoulder seam without visible stitching, that's not SA but it's tweakable and it's not bad to see anyway), mny other are different from the movie as already said: hidden side of the sleeves = no double stitching, front armpit-shoulder junction = double stitched (but it shouldn't as correctly in my bep it's only on the upper inch), pockets angle = incorrect, it lacks the diagonal stitching and it's crossed (it shouldn't), cuff section too short (that's the only point I'm sure 100% nothing can be done to make it more SA not even a little), elbows detailed additional little seams are absent...these last aspects, are nothing to tear my hair out over for, anyway.
The waist doublestitched seamlines are correct, instead, on SR, as already pointed out by
achilles (on my BEP, I twisted a bit the pattern at the bottom (making it curved on the side, and asymmetrical as it should be) when making the cut at the bottom, in order to find a square with my implemented double-breasted, adjusted size with the closure, as originally, it was evident that the seamlines were done as for a mono-breasted coat, so at the same level when it should be asymmetrical).
The buckle is attached with a piece of fabric that I can say is done better (mine is a bit a flaw there now, but it was weak even originally well before my several interventions.
