CountLau
Well-Known Member
In the end,other tweaks have come (buckram,new lining,new color,magnets repositioning,quilting).
Full recap,from when received the coat (just the ones still there to make the very final result):
- fur distressing (alcohol inks: 1st hand mushroom+gunmetal,2nd slate+espresso;brown+black markers touches,isopropanol fading hand work) + trimming + baking paper very lite ironing (fur side only)
- strap too long and closure not SA = strap shortened and repositioned,buckle repositioned,tricky tweaks to the stitches and others put to make the lower edge of the collar shift a bit over the upper edge of the left lapel
- magnets added (at this day,one on the left chest to match the folded left collar corner,two more on left lapel and collar to better hold the opening
- slightly sanded + emerald spray dye (sponge,very little at a time) + petrol spray dye + grey spray dye = to reach a more SA and less over-shiny look
- lining full replacement (too weak and sleeves not well filled) = new top-notch one (opaque,less SA but very sturdy good looking and features two more inside pockets) and dedicated work to sleeves quilting
- hook-n-eye repositioning and re-shaping (perfect closure,more SA and tailored + no more random opening)
- zip added to original inside pocket
- synthetic buckram added to collar and lapels (sewed + ironing to paste it) + half-moon shaped neoprene piece at the base of the neck inside the collar (SA detail,clearly visible when k approaching sapper's house)
Now it's the best I think you can make with this coat. Imo,this coat was still the best on the market (but laminated ran out),but it imperatively needed tweaks to be that good: other noticeable k coats vendors are way off on many details,but if you do not aim to be as more SA as possible,and you settle for a cute coat just "k inspired" and which is wearable immediately without modifications, maybe SR is the way to go but they won't hear about nothing to be customized,give weird infos about their own coat,and the price is unthinkable for a coat that with its non-removable letters on the back but for first of all (for cosplayers who wants the lettering) the fur and that collar-shoulder-lapels model, it ridiculously aspires to be top SA when it probably has a lot of quality but it's clear it can't be,wsl is great value for money but no laminated cotton and you have to heavily modify all the coat,magnoli still not laminated and many details off,but good quality coat (with a price slightly lower than sr).
So,since when you receive this one it has a fur in a dreadful yellow but which is very good to be tweaked,imho:
- you don't wanna reach top SA level,wanna a quality ready-to-go coat = buy waxed wsl (or if you need laminated at all cost but mandatorily with lettering,the nice'n'pricy SR hoping their non-customized size will fit right on you)
- your goal is get mistaken for a blade runner's replicant badass when around = buy els/bep + be prepared at least to immediately distress the fur (you have to practice on other fabrics and it's not obvious, but it's doable and worth it) and,depending on which SA level do you aim,be prepared to spend other money for a lot of minor (but absolutely needed) tweaks. But at this day,no more laminated cotton from els/bep...so maybe better wait to have it again and hopefully in the right duck canvas texture? uncoated duck and waxed-like duck now left,do not seem that SA to me (and uncoated has any waterproof properties,the other one is kinda stiff and opaque...).
Now here couple pics work-in-progress with the very final touches (grey still to be put onto the fabric trying to get a brighter tone,and without the lining which we are implementing correctly and will be resewed to the coat soon).
More of a bluyish-greyish hue now,recovered a bit the shine lost with my previous step,and lapels and collar are way tougher and better shaped with the buckram-neoprene combo,no more floppy look.
The new lining (here put on for a moment not sewn just to show the result, still to be fixed to the coat) give the right consistence to the sleeves better respecting proportions (no more of a "jump" from the significant shoulder panel padding to the sleeves).
Coming soon with pics wearing the very final version of this notorious coat...(just to resew that lining,and try to get an even more SA color with that grey)
Full recap,from when received the coat (just the ones still there to make the very final result):
- fur distressing (alcohol inks: 1st hand mushroom+gunmetal,2nd slate+espresso;brown+black markers touches,isopropanol fading hand work) + trimming + baking paper very lite ironing (fur side only)
- strap too long and closure not SA = strap shortened and repositioned,buckle repositioned,tricky tweaks to the stitches and others put to make the lower edge of the collar shift a bit over the upper edge of the left lapel
- magnets added (at this day,one on the left chest to match the folded left collar corner,two more on left lapel and collar to better hold the opening
- slightly sanded + emerald spray dye (sponge,very little at a time) + petrol spray dye + grey spray dye = to reach a more SA and less over-shiny look
- lining full replacement (too weak and sleeves not well filled) = new top-notch one (opaque,less SA but very sturdy good looking and features two more inside pockets) and dedicated work to sleeves quilting
- hook-n-eye repositioning and re-shaping (perfect closure,more SA and tailored + no more random opening)
- zip added to original inside pocket
- synthetic buckram added to collar and lapels (sewed + ironing to paste it) + half-moon shaped neoprene piece at the base of the neck inside the collar (SA detail,clearly visible when k approaching sapper's house)
Now it's the best I think you can make with this coat. Imo,this coat was still the best on the market (but laminated ran out),but it imperatively needed tweaks to be that good: other noticeable k coats vendors are way off on many details,but if you do not aim to be as more SA as possible,and you settle for a cute coat just "k inspired" and which is wearable immediately without modifications, maybe SR is the way to go but they won't hear about nothing to be customized,give weird infos about their own coat,and the price is unthinkable for a coat that with its non-removable letters on the back but for first of all (for cosplayers who wants the lettering) the fur and that collar-shoulder-lapels model, it ridiculously aspires to be top SA when it probably has a lot of quality but it's clear it can't be,wsl is great value for money but no laminated cotton and you have to heavily modify all the coat,magnoli still not laminated and many details off,but good quality coat (with a price slightly lower than sr).
So,since when you receive this one it has a fur in a dreadful yellow but which is very good to be tweaked,imho:
- you don't wanna reach top SA level,wanna a quality ready-to-go coat = buy waxed wsl (or if you need laminated at all cost but mandatorily with lettering,the nice'n'pricy SR hoping their non-customized size will fit right on you)
- your goal is get mistaken for a blade runner's replicant badass when around = buy els/bep + be prepared at least to immediately distress the fur (you have to practice on other fabrics and it's not obvious, but it's doable and worth it) and,depending on which SA level do you aim,be prepared to spend other money for a lot of minor (but absolutely needed) tweaks. But at this day,no more laminated cotton from els/bep...so maybe better wait to have it again and hopefully in the right duck canvas texture? uncoated duck and waxed-like duck now left,do not seem that SA to me (and uncoated has any waterproof properties,the other one is kinda stiff and opaque...).
Now here couple pics work-in-progress with the very final touches (grey still to be put onto the fabric trying to get a brighter tone,and without the lining which we are implementing correctly and will be resewed to the coat soon).
More of a bluyish-greyish hue now,recovered a bit the shine lost with my previous step,and lapels and collar are way tougher and better shaped with the buckram-neoprene combo,no more floppy look.
The new lining (here put on for a moment not sewn just to show the result, still to be fixed to the coat) give the right consistence to the sleeves better respecting proportions (no more of a "jump" from the significant shoulder panel padding to the sleeves).
Coming soon with pics wearing the very final version of this notorious coat...(just to resew that lining,and try to get an even more SA color with that grey)
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