I am so impressed!
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Done / Completed Luke / Vader ANH shared stunt saber kit
In case I’m fast enough to catch one of your beautiful motorized saber handles I’d really like to add a screen-accurate stunt blade to it. I‘m talking about the special effects blade seen in Obi‘s hut, when Luke ignites the saber for the first time.
What kind of blade are you planning to use on your eethan sabers?
I'm going to use a glomex boat antenna. I'm going to try doing it tomorrow if I can manage to find the time. Would have loved to show a completely finished saber before the release.
Before someone asks, I refrained from also offering the blades as thd9791 offers some on his Etsy shop. Doesn't make sense that I would do them too.
Cheers all
That sweet of you eethan.
I looked in my attic and I have like around 10 left, maybe a few less. I still have the right metal sizes and fabric for a handful more and can order more easily, if need be. Fiberglass too!
I don’t have a lathe so this process is about a day or two per blade. I enjoy it, I’m just slower than some other people haha
I hope between the two of us we can supply everyone!
I looked in my attic and I have like around 10 left, maybe a few less. I still have the right metal sizes and fabric for a handful more and can order more easily, if need be. Fiberglass too!
I don’t have a lathe so this process is about a day or two per blade. I enjoy it, I’m just slower than some other people haha
I hope between the two of us we can supply everyone!
there should be some sabers left for the public release normally, not sure which options though, that is Monday 10th at 8PM CET. The pre-release is reserved for the people that signed up to the interest list a few months back
So, this wasn't a priority for today, but when someones mentions something, I can't help and want to work on it...
so I made my blade this morning...
I'm not offering this! this is more of a motivation thing for you guys to see what a fully put together saber can look like
I'm not sure the Glomex antennas are completely correct in size. My goal here was to be as close as possible in length compared to the refs and have the same result at the base as what I see in the refs and calculated with my 3D model. However, the glomex is a bit too thick to get exactly what I want, so I had to be a bit creative.
Started bu cutting the thing
I was really improvizing and then, I went crazy and decided to put that whole thing in the lathe and turn down the base a bit to try and get closer to the specs i wanted, and have a cylindrical base instead of conical as well. Anyways, that worked...
I made the inside spacer 3.5cm long, drilled a 8mm hole in it, a little slope on it to match the inside of the antenna better and pushed it inside by force. then I did the external ring and this is where I cheated a bit as well, I wanted a specific outside diameter to see exactly the same amount of the ball bearing that I see in one of those top secret refs of the saber. For this, I had to make it a bit thin walled to gain a bit of outside diameter again.
The result looks good and I'm happy because I see a little black of the bearing just like in that ref and that is what I wanted. But again, i had to cheat to have a good length of blade and get that result at the base, idealy, the blade would need to be 1mm thinner at the base to get the good result without cheating. and to get that I need to cut the antenna around 75cm, which is too short.
anyways, result looks good
On the freaking saber!
and a video in action in the next post
now back to work! damnit, i'm doing a bunch of crazy hours this last couple days for you guys ;-)
so I made my blade this morning...
I'm not offering this! this is more of a motivation thing for you guys to see what a fully put together saber can look like
I'm not sure the Glomex antennas are completely correct in size. My goal here was to be as close as possible in length compared to the refs and have the same result at the base as what I see in the refs and calculated with my 3D model. However, the glomex is a bit too thick to get exactly what I want, so I had to be a bit creative.
Started bu cutting the thing
I was really improvizing and then, I went crazy and decided to put that whole thing in the lathe and turn down the base a bit to try and get closer to the specs i wanted, and have a cylindrical base instead of conical as well. Anyways, that worked...
I made the inside spacer 3.5cm long, drilled a 8mm hole in it, a little slope on it to match the inside of the antenna better and pushed it inside by force. then I did the external ring and this is where I cheated a bit as well, I wanted a specific outside diameter to see exactly the same amount of the ball bearing that I see in one of those top secret refs of the saber. For this, I had to make it a bit thin walled to gain a bit of outside diameter again.
The result looks good and I'm happy because I see a little black of the bearing just like in that ref and that is what I wanted. But again, i had to cheat to have a good length of blade and get that result at the base, idealy, the blade would need to be 1mm thinner at the base to get the good result without cheating. and to get that I need to cut the antenna around 75cm, which is too short.
anyways, result looks good
On the freaking saber!
and a video in action in the next post
now back to work! damnit, i'm doing a bunch of crazy hours this last couple days for you guys
;-)
Hello again,
I'm going to try and post a full assembly help now, so you guys can see how that works before ordering.
This is to build a motorized version, it will include all the steps for the other versions as well, just pick what you need in it
This is quick guide with photos, I hope it will be clear enough, you might have to figure some things out sometimes I guess. In any case, i'm always there to discuss if needed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Warning/disclaimers, please all read!
First off, you'll see those on each listing on the website as well. I have to put a few warning/disclaimers on those kits!
Because of the way it is made/intended, there are a few things to be carefull about, the big threaded hole especially, they are very fragile!
Please read carefully and please be calm and gentle with the kits while assembling them. They work, but they are fragile
every kit was tested and works and I can't guarantee anything after they leave my hands, please understand and agree to this when you buy them.
- Motors are reputed very fragile. I can't guarantee anything or how long they will work. This is a 12V version that has a bit of torque but do not overload it and make it force unecessarily, it will overheat and break for sure. I repeat, this is fragile and not guaranteed.
- this is not an idealized kit. There is a bit of wonkiness here! Red button and glass eye holes are not aligned to the overall shape, tubes were raw and were only wet sanded and wire wooled, some scratches from the raw tubes are still present. This gives a nice brushed and naturally weathered finish, much like the original. If you want a clean finish, you'll have to sand them more. Please understand this before buying, the tubes are not perfect.
- the threaded holes for the red buttons and glass eye are all tested and work but they are very fragile as the threads are interupted because of the tube shape. Extreme caution and calm needs to be used to attach the parts, especially the red button as it will come and sit on the inside core. This is done on purpose for accuracy, but it makes it a bit difficult to attach. Make sure your red button/glass eye threads lines up with the hole threads when starting to thread it in. The threads are thin, interupted and fragile, if they strip because the button went in sideways with force, you'll need to glue them instead.
- since there is a rod going through the core, please be aware that the glass eye spring will come in the way and needs to be shortened or glue used instead of the spring to hold the glass part in.
- there are 7 grips on this saber, between 9.2 and 9.4cm length depending on the grip. One is very short and offseted toward the clamp. They are all offseted from the bottom cap and from the clamp.
template can be found here for the grips:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tools needed:
I have taken care of the steps that require specilized tools, like the wire connectors, have threaded the holes, you need to have a few more "regular" tools though:
- a small screwdriver for the switch screw (slotted works well)
- a 2mm allen key for the 3 M4 set screws
- something thin strong and pointy to push the white rubber grommet into its hole
- long medical clamps to push or pull the wires inside the tube and attach the switch. those are easy to find on amazon if you don't have something that will do.
- a soldering Iron to solder the 2 wires to the motor. the rest is already attached.
- electrical tape + small heat shrink tubing.
- patience
Step 1:
The tube is pre-finished to something I consider screen-accurate, slightly raw and scratched, but handsanded for a brushed finish. If you want a cleaner look that this, the first step will be hand-sanding it more.
Step 2:
take the white rubber grommet and push it from one end into the small bottom hole on the saber. Then take your pointy tool and use it to push little by little all around until it comes inside. You might then have to look inside and finish from the inside with your pointy tool as well. it's a one minute job but you need a bit of patience and precision to avoid scratching the tube as well.
sorry, it's hard to put more into words and photos for this. You can do it, I'm sure!
step 3:
Test your motor some way or another now. There are no connectors yet attached to it, so find a way with wires or something. Those motors are fragile, it's possible they will come broken, or poorly assembled. I have reassembled 3 gear boxes myself as they were rattling. it's better to know before starting to wire stuff.
If you need to buy a motor, send me a PM for info if you need, I was helped for those and am not really allowed to post the info publicly but will give it to people that buy the kits. The motors are pretty standard, but to work with my kit, make sure to get one similar to mine with a 25mm od and a gear box in the front.
step 4:
randomly placed here, but you'll need it after. I don't have pics for this one, but since the battery pack was not included in the assembly kits so you can choose what you want, battery pack, rechargeable battery, 12V DC power supply... You'll need to attach the two long wires with red connectors to your power suply now or before, or later, but you'll need it to test the motor when you start connecting stuff.
step 5:
The motor spacer ring inside has an ID of 25mm, the motor is approx 24.7mm diameter (at the gear box in the front). I'm putting a single thickness of electrical tape around the gear box for a good secure fit. Do not overlap the tape as it will create an uneven thickness where it overlaps.
once this is done, you can attach your coupler and your stainless steel rod (temporarily)
the motor driving rod has a flat spot normaly that you should align with one of the set screws for the best coupling.
Once this is attached, take your assembly from the rod end and test from the bottom of the tube that the gear box fits nicelly into the spacer ring inside the tube. You'll be in a word of pain once you have everything attached and you realize the gear box doesn't push into that ring spacer. Better to test it works well now.
step 6:
one decision I had to take for that run was to attach the emiter cores to the tubes myself. i'm sure we all wanted that I place the hole there myself at the proper position and that I tap those as well. And by experience, it's not really doable to have two parts threaded separately and put a screw into both of those, the threads don't line up, it pushes on the outside tube and deform it, it's no good! So, I positioned the cores, drilled through the tubes and cores, threaded them and attached the set screw.
This means that if you want a motorized version, you need to remove that core first. It's a small annoyance, but with a bit of patience, it will work nicely.
The way I fited (most of) those cores was to put two small pieces of electrical tape on each side. To remove the core, you'll need a long rod or something that can go through the back of the tube and inside the ring, so less than 25mm diameter.
with one hand, push firmly on the top and bottom of the emiter, this will deform slightly the tube and enlarge it slightly where the tape pieces are placed. Then push gently little by little with your tool from the back of the tube. The core should gently come out. Just be slow and gentle. the tape will help avoiding any scratches on the inside of the tube, but don't be a brute with the core either I guess
in case the core comes out like this with the tape all over the place, if the tape still holds nicelly, just put it back in place, if not replace it with a similarly placed and sized piece of tape for later on
step 7:
you can now remove the stainless steel rod from the coupler from before. The rod is machined slightly thinner on one side and has a marker mark in the middle, you need to push the machined side into the core ball bearing from the front of the bearing.
that way:
you can help yourself by pushing strongly on a table with both hands on the bottom of the core like so until the black mark disappear:
there might be a bit of difference on each rod, but basically, you want around 7.5/3" of rod visible in the front of the bearing. I mean, just push until the black line disappears, but if it goes inside to easy or something, that is measurement you are looking for.
you can then re-attach the rod to the motor coupler with the ball bearing visible in the front of the assembly. see photo next step.
step 8:
see photo for the whole motor/coupler/rod/core assembly.
we can now take the twisted white wire and put both wires into the white rubber grommet. make the wires exit through the bottom end of the tube and make it goafter the part that is held by the white shrink tube, so you have some length to work with.
take your white switch with short wire attached to it, take the shorter wire of the two twisted wire. fold the exposed cooper in half and twist it. that is so it's thick enough to be attached to the switch. push it inside the second hole of the switch and tighten the screw on that end.
you know have two wires approximatively the same length, take both ends and push them inside the tube until you manage to catch them on the emiter end. This is were the long clamps start to be useful!
Now you can take the switch with those same clamp and position it aligned to the second hole until you manage to catch the switch through the hole with your other hand
when it's poking out of the hole, I will personaly remove the clamps, hold the switch inside with a finger and attach the nut with my other hand. the clamps are still visible in that photo, but I think it's easier with your hand. It's just difficult to first locate the holewith the switch by hand as it's a bit far.
alright, that's a good chunck done! you know have your wires and switch attached and two wires poking out the front emiter end, your motor assembly is also ready, like so:
step 9:
now you need to solder both wires to the motor.
put a piece of heat shrink tubing ready to go on each wire before you solder it. It happened 3 times for me that I forgot for the 24 I assembled... then you need to use electrical tape instead.
It doesn't matter which wire to which pole as you will also be able to invert the connectors to the battery pack later on. And I don't know for you, but my motors only came with a red dot on one pole and no instructions, so well, doesn't matter...
I managed to twist the end of the wires, push them into the tiny tiny holes on the motor poles, fold them in two and solder them. Do your best here, this worked nicely for me.
Now that it's soldered, Test your motor again, this time you can use your battery pack and connectors since everything is wired.
now that it works, you can put the heat shrink tubing on the connections. if you forgot, well, wrap the exposed wire and solder with electrical tape as best as you can, it also works...
step 10:
alright, now for another slightly annoying part, we need to push that motor inside and re-attach the core correctly as it was attached before.
first push the motor inside half way, the wires will get in the way with the motor spacer inside as they are to weak to be pushed. So you need to grab them from the bottom end with the medical clamps again, pull them gently, push your motor further until it starts to go into the spacer. Pull the wires as far as you can in the back.
now, you need to align the hole in the core with the hole on the tube. This will go in the same way it got out, you'll need to press firmly on the top and bottom of the emiter to give some space for the tape to slide inside without being teared off. make sure you are well aligned and push your core inside gently.
Before it goes too far into the spacer, you also need to look inside from the bottom, in order to have space inside, turn a bit your rod in the front so the motor wires will go each side of the switch or they might touch and prevent you from pushing the motor all the way.
This is the slightly touchy part. Be slow and meticulous, it's perfectly doable, but you need to mind everything at the same time, press on the tube, make sure the tape is fine, your hole is aligned, your motor is cleared inside...
when you pushed far enough, hopefully, your holes are well aligned to re-attach the core. I did it on 2 myself, it worked from the first try, if it's slightly out of alignmet, use your allen key as lever inside the hole to turn the core slightly, it shouldn't damage the threads. Even if the alignment is not 100 spot on, the set screw will finish the job normally. Since those were threaded together, the threads will align themselves.
alright, just put that set screw back in.
Then there are two other set screws in the middle of the tube, tighten those slightly, don't squeeze on that gear box too strong, it just needs to hold in place. Best is to thread each screw until it starts to touch the motor, then tighten a bit more each again, that way you don't push the motor out of alignment by tightening one screw too much right away before starting the second one.
In any case, the motor coupler is articulated, so if the motor is not completely aligned, it doesn't change much, don't worry about this!
well guys, that's it, you can plug your connectors again, everything should work now!
Step 11:
the back cap can either be glued or push fit with a bit of tape or something. As you prefer. For motorized sabers, might be better to keep access here in case the wires need to be pulled again, so a bit of tape and a press fot can be a good solution, that is what I did for my assembled motorized sabers.
Step 12:
Just need to attach all those extra parts. clamp, red button, glass eye, grips!
Be carefull when attaching the clamp, aluminium scratches very easily. might be better to disassemble the clamp completely and assemble it around the saber. Or at least make it as loose as possible and use a piece of paper for protection of the aluminium. Just be gentle or you'll scratch your tube for sure.
Please be super carefull and gentle when attaching especially the red button. Because this is a tube, the threads, that are tiny and fragile, are interupted. it is easy to grab the wrong thread on one side and thread the red button sideways. If you force on this, you'll strip the threads. Then you'll need to glue it instead.
alright, I hope this went well for you and you are happy with that kit. it is definitely a super fun hilt, I hope you'll enjoy it!
I'll read this again later on and correct if needed, I'm a bit pressed by time as this took me 2 hours and I still have machining work to do before tonight!
cheers
I'm going to try and post a full assembly help now, so you guys can see how that works before ordering.
This is to build a motorized version, it will include all the steps for the other versions as well, just pick what you need in it
This is quick guide with photos, I hope it will be clear enough, you might have to figure some things out sometimes I guess. In any case, i'm always there to discuss if needed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Warning/disclaimers, please all read!
First off, you'll see those on each listing on the website as well. I have to put a few warning/disclaimers on those kits!
Because of the way it is made/intended, there are a few things to be carefull about, the big threaded hole especially, they are very fragile!
Please read carefully and please be calm and gentle with the kits while assembling them. They work, but they are fragile
every kit was tested and works and I can't guarantee anything after they leave my hands, please understand and agree to this when you buy them.
- Motors are reputed very fragile. I can't guarantee anything or how long they will work. This is a 12V version that has a bit of torque but do not overload it and make it force unecessarily, it will overheat and break for sure. I repeat, this is fragile and not guaranteed.
- this is not an idealized kit. There is a bit of wonkiness here! Red button and glass eye holes are not aligned to the overall shape, tubes were raw and were only wet sanded and wire wooled, some scratches from the raw tubes are still present. This gives a nice brushed and naturally weathered finish, much like the original. If you want a clean finish, you'll have to sand them more. Please understand this before buying, the tubes are not perfect.
- the threaded holes for the red buttons and glass eye are all tested and work but they are very fragile as the threads are interupted because of the tube shape. Extreme caution and calm needs to be used to attach the parts, especially the red button as it will come and sit on the inside core. This is done on purpose for accuracy, but it makes it a bit difficult to attach. Make sure your red button/glass eye threads lines up with the hole threads when starting to thread it in. The threads are thin, interupted and fragile, if they strip because the button went in sideways with force, you'll need to glue them instead.
- since there is a rod going through the core, please be aware that the glass eye spring will come in the way and needs to be shortened or glue used instead of the spring to hold the glass part in.
- there are 7 grips on this saber, between 9.2 and 9.4cm length depending on the grip. One is very short and offseted toward the clamp. They are all offseted from the bottom cap and from the clamp.
template can be found here for the grips:
Tools needed:
I have taken care of the steps that require specilized tools, like the wire connectors, have threaded the holes, you need to have a few more "regular" tools though:
- a small screwdriver for the switch screw (slotted works well)
- a 2mm allen key for the 3 M4 set screws
- something thin strong and pointy to push the white rubber grommet into its hole
- long medical clamps to push or pull the wires inside the tube and attach the switch. those are easy to find on amazon if you don't have something that will do.
- a soldering Iron to solder the 2 wires to the motor. the rest is already attached.
- electrical tape + small heat shrink tubing.
- patience
Step 1:
The tube is pre-finished to something I consider screen-accurate, slightly raw and scratched, but handsanded for a brushed finish. If you want a cleaner look that this, the first step will be hand-sanding it more.
Step 2:
take the white rubber grommet and push it from one end into the small bottom hole on the saber. Then take your pointy tool and use it to push little by little all around until it comes inside. You might then have to look inside and finish from the inside with your pointy tool as well. it's a one minute job but you need a bit of patience and precision to avoid scratching the tube as well.
sorry, it's hard to put more into words and photos for this. You can do it, I'm sure!
step 3:
Test your motor some way or another now. There are no connectors yet attached to it, so find a way with wires or something. Those motors are fragile, it's possible they will come broken, or poorly assembled. I have reassembled 3 gear boxes myself as they were rattling. it's better to know before starting to wire stuff.
If you need to buy a motor, send me a PM for info if you need, I was helped for those and am not really allowed to post the info publicly but will give it to people that buy the kits. The motors are pretty standard, but to work with my kit, make sure to get one similar to mine with a 25mm od and a gear box in the front.
step 4:
randomly placed here, but you'll need it after. I don't have pics for this one, but since the battery pack was not included in the assembly kits so you can choose what you want, battery pack, rechargeable battery, 12V DC power supply... You'll need to attach the two long wires with red connectors to your power suply now or before, or later, but you'll need it to test the motor when you start connecting stuff.
step 5:
The motor spacer ring inside has an ID of 25mm, the motor is approx 24.7mm diameter (at the gear box in the front). I'm putting a single thickness of electrical tape around the gear box for a good secure fit. Do not overlap the tape as it will create an uneven thickness where it overlaps.
once this is done, you can attach your coupler and your stainless steel rod (temporarily)
the motor driving rod has a flat spot normaly that you should align with one of the set screws for the best coupling.
Once this is attached, take your assembly from the rod end and test from the bottom of the tube that the gear box fits nicelly into the spacer ring inside the tube. You'll be in a word of pain once you have everything attached and you realize the gear box doesn't push into that ring spacer. Better to test it works well now.
step 6:
one decision I had to take for that run was to attach the emiter cores to the tubes myself. i'm sure we all wanted that I place the hole there myself at the proper position and that I tap those as well. And by experience, it's not really doable to have two parts threaded separately and put a screw into both of those, the threads don't line up, it pushes on the outside tube and deform it, it's no good! So, I positioned the cores, drilled through the tubes and cores, threaded them and attached the set screw.
This means that if you want a motorized version, you need to remove that core first. It's a small annoyance, but with a bit of patience, it will work nicely.
The way I fited (most of) those cores was to put two small pieces of electrical tape on each side. To remove the core, you'll need a long rod or something that can go through the back of the tube and inside the ring, so less than 25mm diameter.
with one hand, push firmly on the top and bottom of the emiter, this will deform slightly the tube and enlarge it slightly where the tape pieces are placed. Then push gently little by little with your tool from the back of the tube. The core should gently come out. Just be slow and gentle. the tape will help avoiding any scratches on the inside of the tube, but don't be a brute with the core either I guess
in case the core comes out like this with the tape all over the place, if the tape still holds nicelly, just put it back in place, if not replace it with a similarly placed and sized piece of tape for later on
step 7:
you can now remove the stainless steel rod from the coupler from before. The rod is machined slightly thinner on one side and has a marker mark in the middle, you need to push the machined side into the core ball bearing from the front of the bearing.
that way:
you can help yourself by pushing strongly on a table with both hands on the bottom of the core like so until the black mark disappear:
there might be a bit of difference on each rod, but basically, you want around 7.5/3" of rod visible in the front of the bearing. I mean, just push until the black line disappears, but if it goes inside to easy or something, that is measurement you are looking for.
you can then re-attach the rod to the motor coupler with the ball bearing visible in the front of the assembly. see photo next step.
step 8:
see photo for the whole motor/coupler/rod/core assembly.
we can now take the twisted white wire and put both wires into the white rubber grommet. make the wires exit through the bottom end of the tube and make it goafter the part that is held by the white shrink tube, so you have some length to work with.
take your white switch with short wire attached to it, take the shorter wire of the two twisted wire. fold the exposed cooper in half and twist it. that is so it's thick enough to be attached to the switch. push it inside the second hole of the switch and tighten the screw on that end.
you know have two wires approximatively the same length, take both ends and push them inside the tube until you manage to catch them on the emiter end. This is were the long clamps start to be useful!
Now you can take the switch with those same clamp and position it aligned to the second hole until you manage to catch the switch through the hole with your other hand
when it's poking out of the hole, I will personaly remove the clamps, hold the switch inside with a finger and attach the nut with my other hand. the clamps are still visible in that photo, but I think it's easier with your hand. It's just difficult to first locate the holewith the switch by hand as it's a bit far.
alright, that's a good chunck done! you know have your wires and switch attached and two wires poking out the front emiter end, your motor assembly is also ready, like so:
step 9:
now you need to solder both wires to the motor.
put a piece of heat shrink tubing ready to go on each wire before you solder it. It happened 3 times for me that I forgot for the 24 I assembled... then you need to use electrical tape instead.
It doesn't matter which wire to which pole as you will also be able to invert the connectors to the battery pack later on. And I don't know for you, but my motors only came with a red dot on one pole and no instructions, so well, doesn't matter...
I managed to twist the end of the wires, push them into the tiny tiny holes on the motor poles, fold them in two and solder them. Do your best here, this worked nicely for me.
Now that it's soldered, Test your motor again, this time you can use your battery pack and connectors since everything is wired.
now that it works, you can put the heat shrink tubing on the connections. if you forgot, well, wrap the exposed wire and solder with electrical tape as best as you can, it also works...
step 10:
alright, now for another slightly annoying part, we need to push that motor inside and re-attach the core correctly as it was attached before.
first push the motor inside half way, the wires will get in the way with the motor spacer inside as they are to weak to be pushed. So you need to grab them from the bottom end with the medical clamps again, pull them gently, push your motor further until it starts to go into the spacer. Pull the wires as far as you can in the back.
now, you need to align the hole in the core with the hole on the tube. This will go in the same way it got out, you'll need to press firmly on the top and bottom of the emiter to give some space for the tape to slide inside without being teared off. make sure you are well aligned and push your core inside gently.
Before it goes too far into the spacer, you also need to look inside from the bottom, in order to have space inside, turn a bit your rod in the front so the motor wires will go each side of the switch or they might touch and prevent you from pushing the motor all the way.
This is the slightly touchy part. Be slow and meticulous, it's perfectly doable, but you need to mind everything at the same time, press on the tube, make sure the tape is fine, your hole is aligned, your motor is cleared inside...
when you pushed far enough, hopefully, your holes are well aligned to re-attach the core. I did it on 2 myself, it worked from the first try, if it's slightly out of alignmet, use your allen key as lever inside the hole to turn the core slightly, it shouldn't damage the threads. Even if the alignment is not 100 spot on, the set screw will finish the job normally. Since those were threaded together, the threads will align themselves.
alright, just put that set screw back in.
Then there are two other set screws in the middle of the tube, tighten those slightly, don't squeeze on that gear box too strong, it just needs to hold in place. Best is to thread each screw until it starts to touch the motor, then tighten a bit more each again, that way you don't push the motor out of alignment by tightening one screw too much right away before starting the second one.
In any case, the motor coupler is articulated, so if the motor is not completely aligned, it doesn't change much, don't worry about this!
well guys, that's it, you can plug your connectors again, everything should work now!
Step 11:
the back cap can either be glued or push fit with a bit of tape or something. As you prefer. For motorized sabers, might be better to keep access here in case the wires need to be pulled again, so a bit of tape and a press fot can be a good solution, that is what I did for my assembled motorized sabers.
Step 12:
Just need to attach all those extra parts. clamp, red button, glass eye, grips!
Be carefull when attaching the clamp, aluminium scratches very easily. might be better to disassemble the clamp completely and assemble it around the saber. Or at least make it as loose as possible and use a piece of paper for protection of the aluminium. Just be gentle or you'll scratch your tube for sure.
Please be super carefull and gentle when attaching especially the red button. Because this is a tube, the threads, that are tiny and fragile, are interupted. it is easy to grab the wrong thread on one side and thread the red button sideways. If you force on this, you'll strip the threads. Then you'll need to glue it instead.
alright, I hope this went well for you and you are happy with that kit. it is definitely a super fun hilt, I hope you'll enjoy it!
I'll read this again later on and correct if needed, I'm a bit pressed by time as this took me 2 hours and I still have machining work to do before tonight!
cheers
Last edited:
I completely agree
SethSolo510
New Member
Liftoff! Got a motorized stunt secured!
Sithslayer
New Member
Got it!! Thank you SO much for everything eethan!
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