Let's Talk All Things 3d for prop creation, Scan, Design, Sculpt (real and digital), Print and Finish

TazMan2000 said:
I prefer copper pipe due to its extra rigidity. The addition weight adds a tiny bit to the realism when you hold it.

TazMan2000
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I am so new to the scene that my brain always goes back to conventions. This is obviously not the topic right now. So, I could totally see the copper as an amazing option. I always just roll back to my personal reason for owning the item and that is always, "Will it pass the metal detector sweep at the convention". This latest trident I am working on will never go to convention and would be the perfect candidate for inserts of any kind and I do have the copper pipe laying around.
 
greenmachines said:
I am so new to the scene that my brain always goes back to conventions. This is obviously not the topic right now. So, I could totally see the copper as an amazing option. I always just roll back to my personal reason for owning the item and that is always, "Will it pass the metal detector sweep at the convention". This latest trident I am working on will never go to convention and would be the perfect candidate for inserts of any kind and I do have the copper pipe laying around.
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That's why I went PVC (y) Enough people try and skirt the rules, sneaking in contraband, a plastic core just seemed like it would rock the boat less.
 
greenmachines said:
I am so new to the scene that my brain always goes back to conventions. This is obviously not the topic right now. So, I could totally see the copper as an amazing option. I always just roll back to my personal reason for owning the item and that is always, "Will it pass the metal detector sweep at the convention". This latest trident I am working on will never go to convention and would be the perfect candidate for inserts of any kind and I do have the copper pipe laying around.
Click to expand...

How about an oak dowel then?

TazMan2000
 
Error...... temperature below minimum

I ran into a fake error. It seems that some recent updates to slicers has introduced a new issue.

False extruder temperature readings

How that is even possible, I cannot fathom and yes, I do understand programming and computer science so not having a clue as to how this is happening via a software glitch means it should not be possible.

Print after print failed on, "extruder temperature below minimum", so I finally began to babysit the print. It took so long to fail each time that I got distracted and wasn't watching. After another few failures, I just stood there and stared at it for 20 minutes.

At the same spot in the print, on every layer, the temperature reading would go insane, up 5, down 20, up 10, down 3 and if it ever went below the minimum, the print would fail and the printer started screaming. But it was fake, the temperature never really changing. But after the alarm it would just sit there, unmoving, and burning the print. The heater would shut off and it would weld the head to the print.

I looked it up as it was not physically possible to be cooling 20 to 30 degrees instantly. Hundreds of comments about this new issue. I still don't know how bad gcode can convince the temp guage that it has cooled 30 degrees....... not possible if programmed by a sane person. They should be two separate systems. But the fix is, update the software and reslice for new uncorrupted gcode. Problem goes away.

And for all who call BS, I agree, it shouldn't be possible to have gcode affect a temperature reading but it also isn't possible to cool nor heat in 20 degree instantaneous swings.....

If you get this code, reslice at minimum, but likely you need to update your software. The reading is fake but unless you want to drop the minimum temperature.... don't.....the issue does not go away until you generate new gcode.
 
You might ant to quick swap your temp sensor and thermistor in the head (if yours is not too much of a PITA), sometimes one/both can fail and cause problems. I only suggest this because every time I order a replacement hotend, they send replacements of those two parts as well so I have extras lol.
 
greenmachines said:
Error...... temperature below minimum

I ran into a fake error. It seems that some recent updates to slicers has introduced a new issue.

False extruder temperature readings

How that is even possible, I cannot fathom and yes, I do understand programming and computer science so not having a clue as to how this is happening via a software glitch means it should not be possible.

Print after print failed on, "extruder temperature below minimum", so I finally began to babysit the print. It took so long to fail each time that I got distracted and wasn't watching. After another few failures, I just stood there and stared at it for 20 minutes.

At the same spot in the print, on every layer, the temperature reading would go insane, up 5, down 20, up 10, down 3 and if it ever went below the minimum, the print would fail and the printer started screaming. But it was fake, the temperature never really changing. But after the alarm it would just sit there, unmoving, and burning the print. The heater would shut off and it would weld the head to the print.

I looked it up as it was not physically possible to be cooling 20 to 30 degrees instantly. Hundreds of comments about this new issue. I still don't know how bad gcode can convince the temp guage that it has cooled 30 degrees....... not possible if programmed by a sane person. They should be two separate systems. But the fix is, update the software and reslice for new uncorrupted gcode. Problem goes away.

And for all who call BS, I agree, it shouldn't be possible to have gcode affect a temperature reading but it also isn't possible to cool nor heat in 20 degree instantaneous swings.....

If you get this code, reslice at minimum, but likely you need to update your software. The reading is fake but unless you want to drop the minimum temperature.... don't.....the issue does not go away until you generate new gcode.
Click to expand...
If it's changing while it's moving I almost feel like maybe theres a loose wire connected to the thermistor or something?
 
laellee said:
You might ant to quick swap your temp sensor and thermistor in the head (if yours is not too much of a PITA), sometimes one/both can fail and cause problems. I only suggest this because every time I order a replacement hotend, they send replacements of those two parts as well so I have extras lol.
Click to expand...
Ya, this error is actually fake. The issue is in the gcode. Again, not sure how that affects the sensor reading but if you are standing there staring at the temp reading jumping down 30 and know the exact point at which it does it and then rerun the gcode and it now does it at a different spot ..... consistently across 3 more runs.... but after the slicer update it all goes away.... I would not have believed it if I hadn't done all the testing personally.

At first it fell into the "broken wire"/"loose connection or contact" category of consistently failing in the same exact position. After reading the many near new posts about this issue (after a recent update) I realized that, yes, I had allowed the update the day before I sliced this print gcode. So, to test, I reran the code without doing the fix update and the error would then be somewhere else in the print but always the same spot on each layer. So, now, not a loose wire or contact. Last possibility was a bad sensor as you mentioned and that was finally taken off the list after the update (newest) fixed the issue.

I will love to hear if anyone knows how this came about. The sensor reading should not be getting affected by portions of gcode and then unaffected after it passes that exact spot in the print. I see that it can increase or decrease the temperature for running slow at desired features in the print or increase them at points where speed is increased for other features..... but NOT affect the actual reading of the temperature. But according to the other posts and my testing, it definitely did.
 
Oh, my apologies for not giving this reference earlier but, within the time it takes to say "one one thousand", the temperature reading would have changed up and down in 3 to 30 degrees, four swings, up and down and then resolve at 1 degree too high because it thought it needed to increase due to the low readings. I definitely thought it was a broken wire. If, during those swings, one of the false readings was below the minimum setting, the print failed instantly on an alarm (very loud screaching siren).
 
Experiment Time

So my son and myself decided to try some Dental grade STL files as he has just completed a course in 3D dental mechanics.

This was printed in Sunlu PLA grey

1000121268.jpg


Slicing went well and the supports/sprus did their job well and easily removed.

1000121270.jpg


The clean up was minimal and on a par with dental casts made in centrifugal casting machines of old. There are labs that print these in cobalt chrome so obviously a lot stronger but I was very impressed with the Bambu level of detail with a 0.4 nozzle..
The saddle/perforated areas are supposed to look like that to maintain a minimal weight as in the real world the metal framework would be partially incased in acrylic resin.
 
laellee said:
I've heard a lot of good stuff about Fusion 360.

I use Blender for all of my prop stuff, and it is a LOT more powerful than most people release I think, but the learning curve is a lot steeper.
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I second this.
I've been using blender for a few years now, I've tried other modelling softwares but once you learn blender its just as good and has the functionality of many of those programs combined. There are tonnes of great resources online for blender as well that can help you get started

Fusion is also good, but it depends what you're wanting to model as its a CAD program more suited for engineering parts; you wouldnt model a stormtrooper helmet in it. Blender is a bit of a pain to setup to make CAD parts in which is why having a CAD program is also good. Though in my opinion catia (or solidworks) is a much better program than fusion and if you are wanting to model something that has defined dimensions and curves (not an organic shape).
 
TheDragon said:
I second this.
I've been using blender for a few years now, I've tried other modelling softwares but once you learn blender its just as good and has the functionality of many of those programs combined. There are tonnes of great resources online for blender as well that can help you get started

Fusion is also good, but it depends what you're wanting to model as its a CAD program more suited for engineering parts; you wouldnt model a stormtrooper helmet in it. Blender is a bit of a pain to setup to make CAD parts in which is why having a CAD program is also good. Though in my opinion catia (or solidworks) is a much better program than fusion and if you are wanting to model something that has defined dimensions and curves (not an organic shape).
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Solidworks and Zbrush are great for sculpting. I do all of my organic sculpting in Blender, and it is very very good at it with the proper plugins, but holy crap what a pain in the ass to learn. A lot of people I work with will just switch software on a project constantly because it's easier to lets say work in 3DSmax on hard surface, and then jump into Zbrush to texture out organics like wood grains, wear and pitting, etc...
 
kevin926 After much smashing my face against the grinding wheel asking this same question we kind of came to a consensus that the question, although seemingly simple, is actually very dependent on what you are using it for.

1) sculpting softwares where you are doing the sculpting

zbrush is premiere product, blender is the free product, zbrush is far easier to use but neither is even somewhat in the easy category

2) putting shapes together that can be given exact measurements

autocad, solidworks and inventor are premier, fusion is free, tinkercad is not only free but online. Timkercad is very easy to use.

3) scanning software where you make files by scanning real things with a hand held or similar camera

revoscan (free) and similar proprietary software that comes with scanners. Revoscan is incredibly easy to use.

4) slicers that are used to send files to a specific printer

bambu, orca and meshmixer are all free for certain versions and all can do some minimal sculpting and cad-like building but were meant for prepping files to go to a printer. These are greatly useful if you are buying already created files or are getting them from your scanner

Meshmixer is hands down the most versatile for building shapes and has lots of users to help with questions. We have a dedicated meshmixer thread on therpf.

5) Online scanners, A.I. modelers from single photos and videos of the object

2dto3d (does minimal flat router rendering), bambu labs MakerWorld online tools available at makerworld's community website. These will create files but you would still need a slicer to finish them. Makerworld tools are nearly automatic and make incredible files while you don't learn anything. Free, free, free and amazing.....and free

So to wrap up your seemingly simple question which isn't even somewhat simple..... what do you want to do, how do you want to do it, and what will you do with the files once you have them?
 
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joberg said:
Was just about to ask you the question: "Is this the dog's Vans?"...and, if it is, where's the skateboard?:lol:
That helmet looks cool already, btw:cool::cool:(y)(y)
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The only vans Boo gets is mine when I leave them out.
She does like riding on my longboard every once in a while ;)
Thanks Second coat of filler today and set super hatd in the hot sunshine this afternoon.
I may get a quick coat of primer on for the weekend if im. Lucky
 
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