Revell 1/2700 ISD... work begins

I understand what you're saying, thanks!
That's why I had wondered, as Analyzers thoughts, if putting a clear glue in the holes would act as a light diffuser and allow illumination of the 'glue window' somewhat like a fiber optic would.
Im waiting on 0.3mm drill bits to arrive off of Amazon, but I might make a light box of sorts and try a comparison of glue filled and non glue filled holes and see if the concept can work (somewhat as Im curious now). If there is no noticeable effect of mimicking a fiber optic, I will do as you suggest and run the fiber optics. I have some 0.5 here but would just need to purchase the 0.25.

Cheers,
Josh
you need 0,3mm drill bits for 0,25mm cable and 0,6mm drill bits for 0,5mm cable. and you need HSSG drill bits, all others break too quickly.i have used 0,5mm but if i would do it again i would use 0.25mm for the whole ship. this was my soldering plan for 34 cold white 5mm led's and 1 red led for the garbage chute. power 220V from the socket over a power supply 12V and a dimmer. this is the cheapest source for fiber optic cable i could find.

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you need 0,3mm drill bits for 0,25mm cable and 0,6mm drill bits for 0,5mm cable. and you need HSSG drill
That's really helpful. Thank you. Lovely work on your Destroyer!

It seems I bought the wrong drill bits then. I'm planning out just the building of the stack beneath the bridge at present so if the drill bits I've ordered make it that far then great, and I will order more.

Cheers,
Josh
 
I'll cycle a link back to the slow RPM drill I made for doing mine using a motor gearbox assembly and tiny chuck both from ebay. Prevents the plastic melting when drilling.
 
I'll cycle a link back to the slow RPM drill I made for doing mine using a motor gearbox assembly and tiny chuck both from ebay. Prevents the plastic melting when drilling.
I had not come across your thread in my searchers, I love it! The colour looks great and awesome job with the wiring... ( I wish I had even half the talent yourself and others have when it comes to creating these lighting circuits).

But topic on point, your drill Idea is very clever. I saw those drill chucks on ebay, looking for something to fit the dremel. This idea is much more compact and easier to control by the looks of it.

Cheers,
Josh
 
That's really helpful. Thank you. Lovely work on your Destroyer!

It seems I bought the wrong drill bits then. I'm planning out just the building of the stack beneath the bridge at present so if the drill bits I've ordered make it that far then great, and I will order more.

Cheers,
Josh
I can only tell you about my experience and when you get your drill bits you will be shocked at how thin they actually are. I have to say that I drill all the holes by hand with a Tamiya fine pin vise for bits from 0.1mm - 1.0mm. I have tried various other methods before but the results were mediocre. When you are working with an electric rotary tool it is almost impossible to hit the exact spot where the hole should be because of the vibration. With a pin vise you are of course slow to begin with but you can position the hole absolutely precisely and that is important if you want to drill a lot of holes. HSSG drill bits have simply lasted the longest for me. The normal HSS drill bits are too soft and the hardened circuit board dril bits are too brittle and break even faster.

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I can only tell you about my experience and when you get your drill bits you will be shocked at how thin they actually are. I have to say that I drill all the holes by hand with a Tamiya fine pin vise for bits from 0.1mm - 1.0mm. I have tried various other methods before but the results were mediocre. When you are working with an electric rotary tool it is almost impossible to hit the exact spot where the hole should be because of the vibration. With a pin vise you are of course slow to begin with but you can position the hole absolutely precisely and that is important if you want to drill a lot of holes. HSSG drill bits have simply lasted the longest for me. The normal HSS drill bits are too soft and the hardened circuit board dril bits are too brittle and break even faster.

View attachment 1941133
I have to admit, the idea of drilling this all bay hand is not particularly wanting haha. I will try various methods though. If it comes down to it I will drill by hand, as I say when doing anything 'its the destination that matters, not the journey'.

What gets me is the High Speed Steel designation for these bits, if these can't drill styrene without breaking you're going to have no chance in steel. I'm guessing however they create HSS bits is needed for any structural integrity of such a fine bit.
In putting holes where I need them, I have used a compass tip glued into at tube to push in a divit so my bit has a place to start without drifting.
This is a wise idea, making sure to pre punch all of your drill holes.


I had actually wondered if I could cut holes with the laser cutter. It might work. Styrene doesnt like the heat and from memory in tests cannot cut styrene without it turning to goop, but a hole may work.
That said, by the time I write each individual piece a cutting program I probably could have drilled it all by hand anyway.

Cheers,
Josh
 
Just an update to show where I have begun. This really takes a bit to get your head around when there a multiple changed to take place. Like where to even begin!
I decided to start with the stack below the bridge (not sure if there is an official name for this area) and needed to work out how to go about it. Moska was kind enough, on his thread, to share the heights he used. His added heights however were 2.85mm, 3mm, 3.2mm and 3.35mm for the higher areas. As I don't feel the need to concern myself with 0.2 of a Millimeter I rounded everything to 3mm.

I looked to see what Styrene strip I had on hand and I had a pack of Evergreen 149 .040 x .250" or 1.0 x 6.3mm. This I cut the strips in half to give me approximately 3.1mm, close enough!

Ok great, but where do I put these strips?
I went through the instructions and removed all the necessary stack pieces from their sprues and labelled their part numbers on the rear. On one side of the ship I taped all the pieces in place so I could see where I wanted to add the extra strip. Using reference pictures as a guide I decided where would be the easiest areas to place the strip and thought the bases would be the optimal place but seems not. The overall silhouetted greeblie shapes on the stack area is not actually horrible and by putting the strip on the bottom was going to lose details in some places where they needed to be. Two of the pieces I split the 3mm strip and added top and bottom to make best use of the given details.

Here is an example, the lower stack right next to the 4 turrets has what are effectively elongated portholes, surrounded by a pillar of sorts on either side making a rectangular area. The kit has this rectangular area but no oval detail but if I put strip under this part, it moves that detail to the wrong place so the extension here was done on top. You can see the area's I'm referring to in the bottom of this photo.




Now while things changed slightly from this diagram, I quickly drew and labelled what changes I wanted to achieve.


The list of changes I made:
3.1mm Top)
F10, F11, F14, F15

3.1mm Bottom)
K1, K2, K8
F3, F4, F6, F7, F12, F13, F31, F32
H10, H11

3.1mm Split)
K5, K6

1mm Bottom)
F23, F24, F25, F26

1mm Top)
F27, F28, F29, F30



Next will be to add Greeblies and detail, before the horrors of hole drilling.

Cheers,
Josh
 
Looks like a nice plan.

As far as those "oval things" they look like the elevator/access doors on modern Nimitz class, KItty Hawk class etc... US aircraft carriers
for example, the Academy 1/800 USS KItty Hawk ( I modeled them closed, but the doors are sperate parts)
1750089743697.png

or the Nimitz style
1750090732635.png


Another useful bit all over the SD are life rafts from WWII USS battleships and aircraft carriers. They kind of look like "vent" type areas
Like these from the 1/700 USS Missouri
1750090184804.png

or the USS Hornet style
1750090482482.png


or these type of AA guns and the placements for the guns on most WWII ships like the 1/700 USS Yorktown

1750091274747.png

1750091336554.png


as well as Japanese navy ships like the Yamato
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or Akagi
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So now thanks to starks, I am not only motivated, but becoming obsessed with building my kit from the stash
I have the Zvedza release, but there should be no difference from that to the Revell one

Going to follow in starks footsteps, but probably start another thread if I ever finish this thing. Lots of great build threads already so I probably just skip a build thread. There is not much else new I can offer anyway except for reference sake, here is some comparison of 1/700 scale ships bits I am thinking of using since I have some left over from builds (they often give lots of extra bits as most of the kits are re-used as other variants of it's class or have shared sprues with other kits
Also a lot of these kits, especially if older and opened or incomplete can be found for cheap.
Also if you go to the local hobby shop there may be IPMS or other groups whose members have lots of spare bits they wouldn't mind unloading

At any rate, the side oval doors typically found on aircraft carriers won't be of much use for a 1/2700 scale SD considering they are larger than many of the side walls

1750096125063.png


But other bits like the various 1/700 life rafts could be useful for greeblie details

1750096323193.png

1750096377074.png

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Could probably find a place for these things from the 1/700 Yamato as well
Like using the guns in places like this
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Speaking of which, gun barrels are all over places like here with the 1/700 barrels (part 32 on the sprue from the picture above) compared to the molded detail on the left

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1750096536846.png
 
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So now thanks to starks, I am not only motivated, but becoming obsessed with building my kit from the stash
I have the Zvedza release, but there should be no difference from that to the Revell one

Going to follow in starks footsteps, but probably start another thread if I ever finish this thing. Lots of great build threads already so I probably just skip a build thread. There is not much else new I can offer anyway except for reference sake, here is some comparison of 1/700 scale ships bits I am thinking of using since I have some left over from builds (they often give lots of extra bits as most of the kits are re-used as other variants of it's class or have shared sprues with other kits
Also a lot of these kits, especially if older and opened or incomplete can be found for cheap.
Also if you go to the local hobby shop there may be IPMS or other groups whose members have lots of spare bits they wouldn't mind unloading

At any rate, the side oval doors typically found on aircraft carriers won't be of much use for a 1/2700 scale SD considering they are larger than many of the side walls

View attachment 1941883

But other bits like the various 1/700 life rafts could be useful for greeblie details

View attachment 1941885
View attachment 1941886
View attachment 1941887

Could probably find a place for these things from the 1/700 Yamato as well
Like using the guns in places like this
View attachment 1941894

Speaking of which, gun barrels are all over places like here with the 1/700 barrels (part 32 on the sprue from the picture above) compared to the molded detail on the left

View attachment 1941895



View attachment 1941893
I love the reference pics, and I think you nailed it, those oval shapes look identical to the doors on the kitty hawk. That's the advantage of knowing those subjects well.

Awesome to see you starting your kit also! The Sprue on the Revell still has the Zvedza logo on it so I doubt there is any difference between the kits, seems Revell just used the tooling without modification.

As to your own thread, post whatever you like here! And it is nice to post your progress and what you find and do as the way you approach a build or as simply as identifying a part or greeblie is extremely helpful for others. And thats part of what makes the RPF so great.

Greeblie wise I've started robbing parts out of all the left over pieces of kits I have built over the years, from cut pieces from the recent Razor Crest unused landing gear to deck chairs off of a 1/360 Titanic model that I cut up the hull on for a diorama years ago.

Cheers,
Josh
 
What gets me is the High Speed Steel designation for these bits, if these can't drill styrene without breaking you're going to have no chance in steel. I'm guessing however they create HSS bits is needed for any structural integrity of such a fine bit.
I'm an industrial mechanic, so I'm quite familiar with all kinds of drilling.When drilling something, it's usually clamped in a vise and drilled on a drill press, where the drill bit drills into the material at a precise 90-degree angle. The properties of HSS twist drills are perfectly adequate here. Furthermore, for metals of any kind, the rule of thumb is: the smaller the drill diameter, the faster the rotation speed when drilling. However, this rule doesn't apply here. Firstly, we're drilling into plastic, which begins to melt at high speeds. Therefore, despite the extremely small drill diameter, we have to select a low RPM. That's why HSS drill bits aren't suitable here because they're too soft. Even if the name confuses you, HSSG drill bits are the better choice. They're much harder and yet flexible enough not to break immediately if the drill gets stuck while breaking through the hole.
 
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