Jeez, I'm catching up with the 150+ posts that were added while I was sick over the weekend. I've read a few pages, but before I forget things, I'm going to make replies as I go...
First off, a quick reply to Brevin's question:
[Springs]
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Brevin Din-Shay wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>
---8< -- Snip -- >8---
I still have a question, though. Like I asked earlier,
why would a momentary switch NOT have springs inside? After all, that's what makes it work, right?
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Normally in regular switches, they use a piece of flat metal (usually plated copper) that acts as the spring and the conductor at the same time. I have seen some low current and miniature switches with springs in them though, but they're more delicate overall.
[Activator Screws]
Kenny - the photo of your modified activator has a sleeve around the frontmost screw, but in the enhanced image I did you can see that screw thread is not covered, but being washed out by the flash photography...
[Endcap]
The endcap is not a reflective metal, but rather an opaque surface applied to the brass plate that is underneath and visible where the paint/putty has been scratched.
[Grips]
In the following photo from CRProps, I noticed that the ends of the grips (especially the top right one) appear to have tiny holes in them - just like the ones you find from a poor resin cast:
There's no proof behind my theory (other than the above possibility of the bubbles in cast resin), but I don't feel the grips are metal. Mainly because I think it would've been too much trouble for the props guys to be bothered with.
[Rivets]
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Lonepigeon wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>
This new bottom photo brings up another question for me.
Why is the center of the rivet filled? We can clearly see the bottom of the center rivet holes and they appear flat black. With regular pop rivets are applied they leave the center hole open. Could there be something black inside filling the bottom part of the saber? or maybe the type of rivets used seal the center hole?
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The pop-rivets I use leave part of the stem in the reverse side of the rivet, if they didn't, then there's nothing to stop the hollow rivet from collapsing and popping out. Blind rivets completely block the hole.
The black at the bottom of the hole is just years of crud and possibly some bantha poodoo.
[Activation Box Mounting]
Working from various photos to get clean and accurate measurements, along with the photo with measurements from SW to Indy photo, I completed the 3D mock-up of the Darth Vader lightsaber.
What I found was that if the bottom tube is a Graflex (and by the lining up of the L slot and also the ESB grip holes, it does appear to be) then there's a space between the two halves of the tubes (without taking measurements from the model again, I think it was around 10mm to 12mm). I wonder if this is this the height difference between an MPP and a Graflex?.
The screws are drilled and possibly tapped through a blank area of each half of the Graflex, in between the L shaped bayonet slots.
I expect the light colored tube that is visible near the top of the saber goes down through the handle and helps give some support to this extended area.
The following images are quick previews from my 3D modelling program. They show how the two halves line up in relation to the measurements and photos that have all been cross referenced and triple checked against known parts and each other...
On my measurements, I found that the rear notch of the activation box is 1mm shorter than the front notch - this now makes sense, after seeing the profiles that show a slope towards the rear (possibly something got chipped off there - it looks like old bakelite plastic anyway, which is very brittle).
Well, I just hope this posts okay and doesn't get lost by a server somewhere, as it's gone 2am and I'm ready to fall into bed.
Steve