8 ball ring is done for now. I am overly frustrated with this one. I really need to just print it on vinyl and apply it to get any decent precision. Me drawing a circle with paint is officially beyond my patience level.
Adam Ant, Then and now
Finished my "Then" hat today. I could tweak a few angles and add a few oddities like the original but for total size, colors and pattern I am OK with this being complete. Suggestions always welcome.
Another lighting on the original to show the change from gold and silver to yellow and white (same hat, different light and camera exposure)..
Thanks again for keeping me on track here. I had almost changed this to yellow and white but am now convinced that this parade ribbon gold/white/silver combo is as close to the original, under all lighting conditions, as possible.
Another lighting on the original to show the change from gold and silver to yellow and white (same hat, different light and camera exposure)..
Thanks again for keeping me on track here. I had almost changed this to yellow and white but am now convinced that this parade ribbon gold/white/silver combo is as close to the original, under all lighting conditions, as possible.
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Certainly not trying to head off any change suggestions, so lay them out if you have them but here is the build info for the hat above.
Original hat base is from Illinois (USA) on Wish.com:
Link: https://dl.wish.com/tdhzG
The ribbon of white needs to extend over the brim and onto the other side by 3/4 of an inch. I used an inch and a half ribbon and overlapped onto the existing white on the hat. I will not post the ribbon source as I failed to purchase edging which is what is required to make curves without wrinkling. I used regular ribbon which is a mistake. I also attempted to use glue which is another mistake. I ended up using hot glue. This was necessary to keep the curves. Regular adhesives allow the ribbon to move before it dries. You could use a very large number of clip/clamps while it dries.
The white base is a must as Adam's hat shows white through any gaps in the silver and gold braiding.
Over this I placed the silver and white gimp/edging aligned to the bottom of the original white ribbon:
This is from Joann Fabrics:
I then modified a gold gimp/ribbon by cutting off one edge as shown below:
This allows the gold to fold over the brim edge at the large V openings similar to Adam's. Below is an alignment example to the white/silver and then the installed version:
And the overlap on the backside:
The key to not showing a lot of hot glue masses is to use minimal amounts (less than 1/8 inch lines/beads of glue) and only place the glue under areas of the trim/gimp/edging that has the most surface. Avoid placing glue in areas where the large open V holes are. Hot glue can be trimmed away when cold if you are careful to not cut the ribbons or the hat. Best advice is use very little and add more when it isn't enough. Use clear glue if it is available and do not use colors of any kind. If you have never used hot glue, watch some how- to videos. I only glued ahead about 1 inch at a time. Any more and it would be too hard to place the ribbon correctly. The glue cools within 5 to 8 seconds for adhesion so placement of the ribbon is done within 2 to 3 seconds after application. Move slowly and cleanup will be minimum. Don't get excited about the strings, they all come off cleanly. Just focus on placement and a consistent line/curve.
Original hat base is from Illinois (USA) on Wish.com:
Link: https://dl.wish.com/tdhzG
The ribbon of white needs to extend over the brim and onto the other side by 3/4 of an inch. I used an inch and a half ribbon and overlapped onto the existing white on the hat. I will not post the ribbon source as I failed to purchase edging which is what is required to make curves without wrinkling. I used regular ribbon which is a mistake. I also attempted to use glue which is another mistake. I ended up using hot glue. This was necessary to keep the curves. Regular adhesives allow the ribbon to move before it dries. You could use a very large number of clip/clamps while it dries.
The white base is a must as Adam's hat shows white through any gaps in the silver and gold braiding.
Over this I placed the silver and white gimp/edging aligned to the bottom of the original white ribbon:
This is from Joann Fabrics:
I then modified a gold gimp/ribbon by cutting off one edge as shown below:
This allows the gold to fold over the brim edge at the large V openings similar to Adam's. Below is an alignment example to the white/silver and then the installed version:
And the overlap on the backside:
The key to not showing a lot of hot glue masses is to use minimal amounts (less than 1/8 inch lines/beads of glue) and only place the glue under areas of the trim/gimp/edging that has the most surface. Avoid placing glue in areas where the large open V holes are. Hot glue can be trimmed away when cold if you are careful to not cut the ribbons or the hat. Best advice is use very little and add more when it isn't enough. Use clear glue if it is available and do not use colors of any kind. If you have never used hot glue, watch some how- to videos. I only glued ahead about 1 inch at a time. Any more and it would be too hard to place the ribbon correctly. The glue cools within 5 to 8 seconds for adhesion so placement of the ribbon is done within 2 to 3 seconds after application. Move slowly and cleanup will be minimum. Don't get excited about the strings, they all come off cleanly. Just focus on placement and a consistent line/curve.
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For cheaper costume hats, expect to fasten the folds to the main hat center somehow after the ribbon is complete. They just aren't stiff like more expensive hats. I just used hot glue again and held it until it was cool. This part I can't really advise one way or another due to restrictions on use after. You could sew it, velcro, use magnets... I just chose hot glue.
joberg
Legendary Member
Question on this "Then" earring. It looks to me like he placed a silver crossbones on his gold loop. I have placed my quick mockup example next to it for color reference:
Finding the exact earring is not likely so besides sculpting one, this purchased charm is a close second at 3/4 inch tall at ten feet away. List any sources you might have for crossbone charms and opinions on this color combo.
Finding the exact earring is not likely so besides sculpting one, this purchased charm is a close second at 3/4 inch tall at ten feet away. List any sources you might have for crossbone charms and opinions on this color combo.
I worked a little on the big cuban bracelet. I attached the wire holder eyelet (took a silver eyelet off a charm) and the fake release button. Both were super glue molds painted silver. I tried solder but the heat was never nearly high enough due to the bracelets heat sink capacity. I painted in some shadows and put a protective coat over it. When it was dry, I sprayed a light coat of the matte clear (frosted glass specialty paint) for the frosted silver look. I have only one side done but will likely not paint the underside. Tomorrow, when it is fully cured, I will add the short silver wire safety catch and will post final pics. I am starting on the black orb and cross ring tonight. After that, I will only need to find the bandana print to be able to do my first pose pic. Finally breaching the props water line and able to work on poses. I have some conversations going for a possible white "Then" vest at 120 instead of 450.... I'll chalk this up to one of those things I ask for in the way of first world miracle, petty, selfish, and stingy but asking anyway. If it comes through and isn't a complete sham, I will post the source.
The recent progress is because I am stuck at home with the most recent "crud". Luckily it is something I could get antibiotics for but sleep is little to none so I work on projects.
joberg
Legendary Member
MAKE BELIEVE
Master Member
Great project
Stand and Deliver!
Stand and Deliver!
Bracelet: Didn't like the wire shape and the glue sculpting got chunky so I took the safety catch wire off and re-did it. This time I was aware of a few things about solder and glue. Solder cannot be on the thicker metal as it will not heat up and glue cannot go first or the soldering heat destroys it, even at a significant distance. I took another silver circle eye from another charm and pre loaded it onto the shaped wire. I then soldered the ends of the wire (and filed the solder to shape) and added the hit of solder to the loop hole in the end of the safety catch.
Next, I melted a drop of solder onto an insulated surface to create a flat face for gluing to the bracelet. This larger surface area would make the glue bond stronger and would allow a smooth shape instead of chunky buildups of glue. I then heated the charm loop and soldered it to the flattened drop.
Sorry for not clearing the bench before this picture.
I then super glued the flat surface to the bracelet.
The below is Adam's bracelet on the left.
Next, I melted a drop of solder onto an insulated surface to create a flat face for gluing to the bracelet. This larger surface area would make the glue bond stronger and would allow a smooth shape instead of chunky buildups of glue. I then heated the charm loop and soldered it to the flattened drop.
Sorry for not clearing the bench before this picture.
I then super glued the flat surface to the bracelet.
The below is Adam's bracelet on the left.
Finished the lenses and frames today. I gave up on solder for this as it would not create a bond on the frames. I suppose they may have a very nice industrial coating that stops the bond. I used super glue for both the nose pads and the lenses. I can see that the bottom curve of the lenses is flatter on his compared to mine but overall size, shape and color are within my limits for a prop. Still looking for a new or used prescription set so I can order new lenses and just have them be perfect. Here is my comparison pic:
PS This was freaking hard.
PS This was freaking hard.
Looking good, greenmachines!
Small, black, pinky ring with Vivienne Westwood's Cross and Orb logo. Because this unfortunate head cold is making my sleep A couple hours at a time, I am doing some random little projects in the shop. While walking to feed the goats, I saw a window screen in the metal recycle bin and wondered if the aluminum trim would be easy to mold......
Having also found the scrap lamp shade frame for hammering out the shape, it was sheet metal shears, then a quick shaping and a little light filing.
Spray paint, then time for markers...
and his for comparison
I could not find one for sale online.
Having also found the scrap lamp shade frame for hammering out the shape, it was sheet metal shears, then a quick shaping and a little light filing.
Spray paint, then time for markers...
and his for comparison
I could not find one for sale online.
Found this while researching Adam's hats:
And yes RPF..... CHALLENGE ACCEPTED
Yes, double takes are allowed. Maybe even some time in group session to discuss what we all did wrong in life to not own a hat of this value. Only two existed at this time and a single hat cost £10,000. So, I say "challenge accepted", I will make my own 10,000 (cent version) hat and when asked, I can say "It cost 10,000 and it is one of 3 in the whole world."
And yes RPF..... CHALLENGE ACCEPTED
Yes, double takes are allowed. Maybe even some time in group session to discuss what we all did wrong in life to not own a hat of this value. Only two existed at this time and a single hat cost £10,000. So, I say "challenge accepted", I will make my own 10,000 (cent version) hat and when asked, I can say "It cost 10,000 and it is one of 3 in the whole world."
I am a bit mystified by it but it seems they are that expensive for most of her one off items. She does not sell copies of her one off work. On her web page she lists 6 well known entities as her one offs. Her regular line is only 2 to 3 hundred per.
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