Wow it's almost like it was lost in translation. How did they basically ignore EVERYTHING you asked for. No V, with sleeves and the wrong color cord vs. silver bullion ?
Adam Ant, Then and now
It had the distinct feel of sending me one they had already made knowing it is half a world away and too much trouble. The really irritating part is it is a beautiful jacket that doesn't look like anything Adam has ever worn. With skills like that you could make a mint but this failure is a train wreck on the communication side. Even the materials are top notch, the freaking idiots could have had multiple repeat orders if they had the ethics to not pawn off a shelf item they had laying around.
So I started on my home sewn version. The base vest is complete minus the tall collar. I will finish the collar tomorrow and then start training on cording on a separate sample cloth. Adam's cording is shiny but still white, similar to wedding dress cording. Haven't sourced the cording yet.
So this is Robert Shaw. He is famous for his part as Quint in Jaws. The above pic is him much younger. Astounding how much Adam looks like so many A-list actors. He hits high 70s when compared to Jude Law, Luke Evans and is practically doppleganger for Johnny Depp. It would be a crazy toss up for who would play the role in a lifetime tribute movie.
joberg
Legendary Member
Oh yes, sorry, the seller is Monzie but goes by multiple names across Etsy, Wish, Ebay and other outlets. Pakistan is the location and will often be the one saying they are local to wherever you are. Super fast to answer questions until you order.Too bad about the jacket...not going to order anything from those clowns
And you will see the exact coat I received listed by other vendors so they are really just the one company using new names when their ratings fall
Question: What do you think the cape is made of?
I just purchased 2, one cloth polyester and one velvet polyester. Will post some lighting comparisons.
I just purchased 2, one cloth polyester and one velvet polyester. Will post some lighting comparisons.
joberg
Legendary Member
I am making an attempt at modding two prop toys but will post only if they are turning out. I might have an angle on borrowing a set so am working both sides.
Exactly my take, which then prompted the request. Knowing that they were onsite with a production team making the famous video, means they had opportunity to switch it out. I can't really tell in the video SOOOOO, I got both....
So, still working on the cast pistols but my uncle says he has a prop pistol but it is "in the shop somewhere"... this means it exists but in the alternate universe known as "some place safe".
Working on the bicorn again. I ordered the gold foil print for the hat badge from multiple vendors. All turned down the job. As noted above, one very plausible method is screen printing but I wanted to try this new toner foil. This stuff will not stick unless placed on something that is itself, sticky. There are two main types of plastic backed transfer foil. One has no sticky backing and is called toner sensitive. It really is just adhesive free. You have to put it on something that can become an adhesive which is why toner works when reheated. The second type is referred to as heat foil. It already has a layer of heat sensitive adhesive and therefore transfers directly to many surfaces.
The trick is getting gold foil but only on the image or text you intend. The heat foil would transfer over the whole area and would need to be precut to shape first. This means it acts like vinyl stickers that are cut but cannot do fine detail. The toner foil will stick to toner but also to heat transfer adhesives.
The normal process is: First step, print the image on a laser printer.
Second step, place the foil on the toner image and reheat. Then peel the plastic off and the foil will leave behind only the areas that came in contact with toner. This is as far as most foil users go. Now the negative image still remains on the foil.
Third step, some foil users have then used the negative to decorate either a fully toner covered black paper or a special white paper made for this. It has an adhesive layer on the face.
I figured that I could use this process to do what several online vendors said could not be done, using this method to transfer a high def foil image to leather without having a metal die of the image and the expensive, die heat press.
I printed the negative of my image on a laser printer. This is an important step. This allows you to remove all the foil you do not want, leaving only the foil image that you do want. This is the step the online vendors failed to grasp:
Then I laid the toner sensitive foil on it. Shiny side up. I placed these in a protective paperboard ironing sleeve and hard pressed on max heat. Very hard pressed.
Then waited for it to cool and peeled it away. I attempted to use a laminator but it has no pressure and failed continuously. I read that a Minc brand laminator works perfectly. I used a regular clothing iron.
I then placed tshirt inkjet transfer sheet paper on my leather. Placed it in another paper sleeve and ironed the clear adhesive onto the leather.
I waited for it to cool entirely. Peeling too early will pull up the adhesive. I then placed my now positive gold foil image on top of the leather and adhesive prepped surface. Placed these back in the paper sleeve and re-ironed. Waited for it to cool, peeled the plastic and I had a finely detailed, gold foil image on leather. I used a black alcohol marker to cover any extra gold that trasferred.
Final step was cutting out the round image from the leather.
The trick is getting gold foil but only on the image or text you intend. The heat foil would transfer over the whole area and would need to be precut to shape first. This means it acts like vinyl stickers that are cut but cannot do fine detail. The toner foil will stick to toner but also to heat transfer adhesives.
The normal process is: First step, print the image on a laser printer.
Second step, place the foil on the toner image and reheat. Then peel the plastic off and the foil will leave behind only the areas that came in contact with toner. This is as far as most foil users go. Now the negative image still remains on the foil.
Third step, some foil users have then used the negative to decorate either a fully toner covered black paper or a special white paper made for this. It has an adhesive layer on the face.
I figured that I could use this process to do what several online vendors said could not be done, using this method to transfer a high def foil image to leather without having a metal die of the image and the expensive, die heat press.
I printed the negative of my image on a laser printer. This is an important step. This allows you to remove all the foil you do not want, leaving only the foil image that you do want. This is the step the online vendors failed to grasp:
Then I laid the toner sensitive foil on it. Shiny side up. I placed these in a protective paperboard ironing sleeve and hard pressed on max heat. Very hard pressed.
Then waited for it to cool and peeled it away. I attempted to use a laminator but it has no pressure and failed continuously. I read that a Minc brand laminator works perfectly. I used a regular clothing iron.
I then placed tshirt inkjet transfer sheet paper on my leather. Placed it in another paper sleeve and ironed the clear adhesive onto the leather.
I waited for it to cool entirely. Peeling too early will pull up the adhesive. I then placed my now positive gold foil image on top of the leather and adhesive prepped surface. Placed these back in the paper sleeve and re-ironed. Waited for it to cool, peeled the plastic and I had a finely detailed, gold foil image on leather. I used a black alcohol marker to cover any extra gold that trasferred.
Final step was cutting out the round image from the leather.
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To finish the badge, I placed my newly created round on some paper and traced its outline with a pencil. I then cut a strip of leather and began laying down the folds of the outer ring of the leather badge using hot glue. I overlapped my traced line so that, when finished, I could place the gold foil printed round on top.
so mine next to the original:
My phone camera continued to swap in school bus yellow on my gold foil. It actually looks like the gold on Adam's but slightly more reflective.
so mine next to the original:
My phone camera continued to swap in school bus yellow on my gold foil. It actually looks like the gold on Adam's but slightly more reflective.
I like It.
I wasn't sure where to place this but this page has many hatmaking tutorials:
www.hatsupply.com
Hat Making Tutorials - How to Make Hats - Craft Supplies
Uses a template for content
www.hatsupply.com
joberg
Legendary Member
That "Cocarde" is really looking good
Etymology of "Cocarde": cockade in English.
cockade (n.)
"clasp, button, etc. used to secure the cock of a hat," hence "any knot or badge worn on a hat," especially as a sign of political adherence, 1709, earlier cockard (1650s), from French cocarde (16c.), fem. of cocard (Old French cocart) "foolishly proud, cocky," as a noun, "idiot, fool;" an allusive extension from coq
Etymology of "Cocarde": cockade in English.
cockade (n.)
"clasp, button, etc. used to secure the cock of a hat," hence "any knot or badge worn on a hat," especially as a sign of political adherence, 1709, earlier cockard (1650s), from French cocarde (16c.), fem. of cocard (Old French cocart) "foolishly proud, cocky," as a noun, "idiot, fool;" an allusive extension from coq
I am pretty sure that both badge and cocky/proud may apply...That "Cocarde" is really looking good
Etymology of "Cocarde": cockade in English.
cockade (n.)
"clasp, button, etc. used to secure the cock of a hat," hence "any knot or badge worn on a hat," especially as a sign of political adherence, 1709, earlier cockard (1650s), from French cocarde (16c.), fem. of cocard (Old French cocart) "foolishly proud, cocky," as a noun, "idiot, fool;" an allusive extension from coq
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