Skeleton Crew Jod Buckle

[smithjohnj]

I will say, greenmachines, if that is NOT the buckle, it probably should have been. I try to plod through a problem step-by-step, but I admit I do not have the artistic ability to go from a collections of seemingly random blurs into such a cohesive whole. Excellent job.

 

[smithjohnj]

In reviewing your final product I realize the area immediately under what I personally refer to as the "steer's head" (I mean it is the skeleton crew after all) you have an open cut-through. I never "saw" that as I was trying to model the "dashes" which I tried to make into "eyes of my gnome". I realize now that is just the visible artifact of the top edge of the underlying belt. Very insightful.

 

[greenmachines]

In reviewing your final product I realize the area immediately under what I personally refer to as the "steer's head" (I mean it is the skeleton crew after all) you have an open cut-through. I never "saw" that as I was trying to model the "dashes" which I tried to make into "eyes of my gnome". I realize now that is just the visible artifact of the top edge of the underlying belt. Very insightful.

It took the group collecting at least 10 pics before the passthrough was visible. Good news, good news, we have a 3d pro willing to look at the scan and work towards a conclusive printable. I will owe some favors when done but this will be properly built by someone who props better than most. It may be in instructions or it may be cuddled and taken in as orphan. Either way, we have sparked interest with a pro.

 

[joberg]

It took the group collecting at least 10 pics before the passthrough was visible. Good news, good news, we have a 3d pro willing to look at the scan and work towards a conclusive printable. I will owe some favors when done but this will be properly built by someone who props better than most. It may be in instructions or it may be cuddled and taken in as orphan. Either way, we have sparked interest with a pro.

That scan is a thing of beauty greenmachines

 

[chibobber]

Through all this I can not shake the thought that the props department went to a Renaissance fair and there was a vendor selling these with a leather belt. "Ohi mate, I'll take a dozen of those."

 

[Modery]

Last night before going to sleep I did a very quicky & dirty update in Blender:

Printed it overnight and had a look at it just now:

• Belt is only 3.2cm (1.26in) high, only one I had at hand. Printed the buckle at 3in height (~7.6cm)
• Overall, the model is already great! Proportions look good, likely only very minor cosmetic changes required). Even without any smoothing, it came out in really good condition (FDM printer, not resin)
  Also did a short mirror of the right side to see how it would look like compared to the original (top mirrored, bottom original)
  
  
• The rings at the side that I added weren't properly connected to the model (that was a 1min job late at night.....), so of course the broke off as soon as they could (I also printed with only 2 walls and little infill, so expected it anyway; "fixed" with lots of blue tape). More importantly, they are too far at the side, would need to be much closer, like this (or maybe even more?):
  
  
  
  There is still some stress on them when wearing the belt, so they would need to be quite sturdy so that they don't break off
  
  
• I added a small stud at the back to go through a belt hole. Naturally I messed it up in size (way too big) and position (too low). The green stud is likely the better position, though would need to be verified with a properly sized belt.
  
  

 

[smithjohnj]

I have been thinking about the rear end bars of the buckle which go behind the belt. What if instead of a curved end as it seems we have all visualized - it was a straight vertical rod or bar? The current endpoints seem to be in alignment already. Then the visible ends we see would not drop down as much as just turn to the rear and seem to narrow and fade away from the front view? The existing endpoints just need to turn back the thickness of the belt, perhaps 4 mm, maybe 6 mm if anyone is using a heavy duty leather.

Edit: To be more precise, the thickness of the leather would be 4-6 mm which means each endpoint would need to turn back the thickness of the leather belt PLUS the thickness of the rod or bar.

 

[greenmachines]

Last night before going to sleep I did a very quicky & dirty update in Blender:
View attachment 1897667


Printed it overnight and had a look at it just now:
View attachment 1897668

• Belt is only 3.2cm (1.26in) high, only one I had at hand. Printed the buckle at 3in height (~7.6cm)
• Overall, the model is already great! Proportions look good, likely only very minor cosmetic changes required). Even without any smoothing, it came out in really good condition (FDM printer, not resin)
  Also did a short mirror of the right side to see how it would look like compared to the original (top mirrored, bottom original)
  View attachment 1897672
• The rings at the side that I added weren't properly connected to the model (that was a 1min job late at night.....), so of course the broke off as soon as they could (I also printed with only 2 walls and little infill, so expected it anyway; "fixed" with lots of blue tape). More importantly, they are too far at the side, would need to be much closer, like this (or maybe even more?):
  View attachment 1897669
  There is still some stress on them when wearing the belt, so they would need to be quite sturdy so that they don't break off
  
  
• I added a small stud at the back to go through a belt hole. Naturally I messed it up in size (way too big) and position (too low). The green stud is likely the better position, though would need to be verified with a properly sized belt.
  View attachment 1897670

Nice job getting this rodeo underway!!!

I was having a heck of a time getting the back fill to work and my imports continued to show up corrupted. I asked two of our seasoned 3d folks and both responded. Given the correct process I think I can tackle future projects easier. Because my sculpt was NOT on a flat surface, the auto "base removal" didn't even attempt to help me. scornflake showed me the steps to creating a planed surface to eliminate the issue on future runs. Trying to bring it into my editing software continued to fail because I had already attempted other edits and messed up the file but didn't realize it. Jintosh saved me by opening the original (prior to my battering the file) and trimmed up the excess, punched the holes and made it a solid object. This is why therpf is so awesome.

I can now bring it into blender successfully. I am working on cleaning up the edges and will add the back loops as well. The trick on the loops is the are nearly straight down at the point you can no longer see them from the front. They loop back behind the buckle plane enough to allow the belt through but beyond that they just go straight down like a true beltloop like these:



I measured mine and it is about 2 5/8 tall or slightly taller but the easiest thing to measure is that it is 3 and 1/8 from the left of the central part to the right of it:

 

[greenmachines]

I have been thinking about the rear end bars of the buckle which go behind the belt. What if instead of a curved end as it seems we have all visualized - it was a straight vertical rod or bar? The current endpoints seem to be in alignment already. Then the visible ends we see would not drop down as much as just turn to the rear and seem to narrow and fade away from the front view? The existing endpoint just need to turn back the thickness of the belt, perhaps 4 mm, maybe 6 mm if anyone is using a heavy duty leather.

I was typing as you were typing. Yes, definitely straight down from the visible tips in the front. Just a jog to the back, straight down and a jog back to the front

 

[greenmachines]

I had hoped it could be truly flat but it does actually turn 90 to horizontal and goes behind the buckle (the flat plane), then down.

 

[greenmachines]

I have the buckle cleaned up and am running a test run on printing (total newb so am incorporating some assistance) but a fully functional stl should be coming within the next week to 2. If anyone wants to waste some filament on trying this one for me let me know. I am the proud owner of at least 3 newly installed software suites (all free)... 4 counting the one that came with my aunt's Miraco scanner. I have several pirate pistols, like real world pistols and some toys (not worth printing as they can just be purchased) but if anyone wants I will be trying to get them apart to scan the moving bits separately. Is anyone interested in full gun STL? Without dismantling it? They wouldn't be crazy perfect due to the hidden spaces when they are not taken apart before scanning but if a printable model is all you need I can get to work on scanning these. At least two will be loaded in my Adam Ant thread as well because he uses them in the Stand and Deliver video. Let me know if there is any interest in the one shot printing as it is not something I was planning to do this round (I want to hand finish the paints separately if possible). These are not purpose built for The Skeleton Crew so not trying to overstate their use but are legit base units if you were to mod them for use. I saw some decent ones on thingiverse but were for 1/6 size so am not sure those would size up with any decent detail so am going for scanning my own.

My Jod pistol is, of course, not of my making and is currently riding across the ocean on its way to my house.

The current version of the buckle is cosplay level due to not seeing the back of the buckle. If........ If..... you happen to have a pic or could GET a pic of the backside of the buckle (off the belt hopefully but not totally necessary) it would be a very late Christmas miracle and I would forever remember you as the MOST AWESOME PERSON ALIVE...... or at least until my next project where I need further assistance from someone else who may also be as awesome as you.

 

[greenmachines]

Wow, just now realized I did not get the rear pin added. Sorry. I totally agree it need the pin according to the pics we see with it dead center between holes so I will certainly add it. After looking at Modery 's post and smithjohnj 's notes on placement, I think the pin likely sits in the little straight line piece that starts down into the pendulum shape (right above the body of the pendulum).

 

[greenmachines]

Well, carp. I see another few photos where it is not centered between holes. Leaving it off for now. Can certainly add it later in the game.

 

[smithjohnj]

I know you indicated there are some 3D printing experts helping you with the final stl. Could I suggest they also design a "support block", instead of having a large amount of support material? For a project like this where someone may potentially make several prints, the amount of filament used for support could be high. I first make a reusable support structure which can take the place of generated supports. I would have a block where the height is the distance from the print plate to the buckle back. In addition it would have removable "wings" which fit into cavities in each end which fill the loops for support there. In practice you would put a pause command into the g-code at the appropriate layer, print the two loops and positioning stud up to the height of the buckle back, when the print pauses, place the support block with glue to help hold in place, resume printing. To prevent the next layer from adhering I cover the top of the support block with aluminum foil and raise the next-to-print layer after the pause to the appropriate height. After printing the wings are pulled out of the loops, freeing the center support block. I have attached a quick example.

 

[Modery]

I started a test print on my 3D printer earlier this morning, 6 hours later I had the print ready.

What I did first:
- Imported into Blender
- Checked for "non manifold edges". There were some around the connection between what was modeled and the "back loops". Fixed it via the in-built tool (3D-Print add-on). Might also work without it
- Added a subdivision modifier with "Levels Viewport" and "Render" set to 2. Makes it look smoother without losing anything important

Printed it on my Ender 3 Max Neo with:
- PETG filament
- 0.2mm layer height (anything lower didn't seem useful for me here, as we don't have anything extremely detailed; my post-print process will take care of smoothing by sanding and using UV resin to make it super smooth)
- 999 walls! Well, this basically means that it's a solid piece of plastic, no holes inside as there is no infill

The result (worn with a narrow belt):
Front

Side 1

Side 2

My opinion: don't think I'll need a pin at the back, it's already quite stable as it is (not shifting left/right). Obviously the height of the belt plays an important role here, my 3cm (I think) belt makes it look weird from the side. Will see if I can find a piece of carton that I can cut to 4.1 - 4.6 cm and see how it looks like with it.
Model is also quite sturdy, I'm not too worried about it breaking. Might still be worthwhile to strenghten the corners of the sides a bit

 

[Modery]

For a better overview of how different belt heights would look like on a buckle printed at 100% size:

4.5cm (1.77in)

4.3cm (1.69in)

4.1cm (1.614in)

For comparison, the buckle here looks quite tight overall with nearly no gap:

And of course after seeing this I realise I haven't taken a photo from a similar angle

 

[joberg]

^^
Beauty Modery

 

[greenmachines]

I started a test print on my 3D printer earlier this morning, 6 hours later I had the print ready.

What I did first:
- Imported into Blender
- Checked for "non manifold edges". There were some around the connection between what was modeled and the "back loops". Fixed it via the in-built tool (3D-Print add-on). Might also work without it
- Added a subdivision modifier with "Levels Viewport" and "Render" set to 2. Makes it look smoother without losing anything important

Printed it on my Ender 3 Max Neo with:
- PETG filament
- 0.2mm layer height (anything lower didn't seem useful for me here, as we don't have anything extremely detailed; my post-print process will take care of smoothing by sanding and using UV resin to make it super smooth)
- 999 walls! Well, this basically means that it's a solid piece of plastic, no holes inside as there is no infill

The result (worn with a narrow belt):
Front
View attachment 1899289

Side 1
View attachment 1899290
Side 2
View attachment 1899291

My opinion: don't think I'll need a pin at the back, it's already quite stable as it is (not shifting left/right). Obviously the height of the belt plays an important role here, my 3cm (I think) belt makes it look weird from the side. Will see if I can find a piece of carton that I can cut to 4.1 - 4.6 cm and see how it looks like with it.
Model is also quite sturdy, I'm not too worried about it breaking. Might still be worthwhile to strenghten the corners of the sides a bit
View attachment 1899294

I am well on board with strengthening those corners. Those test runs, especially scaled are super cool. Thank you for all the work and fixes. I should have those corners toughened up by tomorrow.

I know you indicated there are some 3D printing experts helping you with the final stl. Could I suggest they also design a "support block", instead of having a large amount of support material? For a project like this where someone may potentially make several prints, the amount of filament used for support could be high. I first make a reusable support structure which can take the place of generated supports. I would have a block where the height is the distance from the print plate to the buckle back. In addition it would have removable "wings" which fit into cavities in each end which fill the loops for support there. In practice you would put a pause command into the g-code at the appropriate layer, print the two loops and positioning stud up to the height of the buckle back, when the print pauses, place the support block with glue to help hold in place, resume printing. To prevent the next layer from adhering I cover the top of the support block with aluminum foil and raise the next-to-print layer after the pause to the appropriate height. After printing the wings are pulled out of the loops, freeing the center support block. I have attached a quick example.

So, my apologies first: Newb D Newb here, speaking only from information I have gathered through these therpf adventures. This kind of stuff with the block support will save a lot of material for printers, yes? I literally wouldn't know but will try to wrap my head around the example you posted. In my limited understanding, I think this means two final buckle versions, possibly 3.

1st) Just the full finished buckle for those who only know how to click print. Trust me when I say, I haven't even done that. Plenty of degrees and machine shop experience but my 3d printer is new in the box.

2nd) The block file, to go along with the offering of the first file, for those savvy enough to use the block when printing so they can save a ton of support material on runs of 2 or more.

3rd) Parts file with the main buckle having two pin holes to recieve mount pins from the two separately printed end loop ( that now have a pin added.

I think this would be pretty sturdy if assembled with even a touch of e6000 because the buckle carries no pull stress and is just hanging there.

Thoughts?

 

[Modery]

Not sure if I should call it a "stroke of genius" or just confess that I wasn't really thinking of this option yesteday, but this morning I realised that I do not only have the regular belts in my wardrobe, but also the belt that I'm wearing as part of my mandalorian costume (sidenote: it's actually the Han Solo belt) - which happens to be 5cm (1.97in) heigh. Perfect height for the buckle at 100% scale.

So, here you go, some more quick photos (taken with my left hand while holding the belt with all it's attachments with the right):

 

[Modery]

What do you think about making the 4 edges point down some more, so that they are not as aligned with the back of the buckle but rather are a bit more curved? Something like this:

Top: One of the edges is pointing downwards in a quick & rough edit.
Bottom: original position