Playing with the face app and came across a pose and comp combo that I hadn't tried before.

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I printed my image on my home printer using card stock. I then razor cut it and popped out the pieces:

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Then I placed my name tape across the back of the paper. I placed my fabric strip on packing tape so the tape stuck out past both top and bottom edge. My fabric is 1 inch cotton fabric ribbon tape, gaberdine weave, I think. I placed one end well past the end of the name and slowly lowered the fabric onto the name from end to end. The paper was face down at this point. By slowly going from one side to the other, you can center each letter in the fabric while pressing down on the tape a little at a time. This centered the name. It makes a huge difference as 3/4 letters in a 1 inch space MUST be centered vertically to look correct. I had made the fabric about 4 inches longer than needed because it would be hard to perfectly center lengthwise as well. I cut it to the appropriate 5 inches afterward. The I is exact center so marking 2.5 inches to either end of the center of the "I" is perfect for length. I used a grey marker and did NOT saturate the image. I only dabbed down and purposely left some fabric still showing grain. This was in hopes of making it look weathered. It is certainly not dark on his coat and is like a tan gray on a dirty tan background. Like moldy hay on slightly less moldy hay. When done, I could see I need to really age the fabric tape as well. But the print is really impressive compared to screen images.

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I will play with weathering and aging tomorrow. My print is alcohol markers so I will need to dirty it up with water based staining, to avoid bleeds.
Great work! What marker pen did you use to achieve that look?
 
Great work! What marker pen did you use to achieve that look?

My markers are "Touchfive" brand alcohol markers. A competitor to the very popular Copic brand.

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However, even dollar store permanent markers can work because they are generally all alcohol markers in the permanent marker craft section. I used the cg6 and cg7, cool grays.

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Be wary and slow, tap at it, with at least a half second between taps. At the edges of the letters, draw inward to the center of the letter, dragging from on the stencil to into the letter and not from inside to outside. This will limit the amount of liquid soaking in at the edges. You need to let the alcohol fume away and not wick away. If you begin to saturate the cloth tag with the pen, it will wick out sideways and then needs to be dabbed up with an alcohol swab (again light on the alcohol). If you do need to do cleanup with cotton swabs be willing to use a lot. Once the swab is showing color it can also put it back on your tag so use another and another. Best bet is to slowly apply from the start, letting each added dot dry.

The lines will blur a little and will be needing some cleanup but the following is what happens when you go too fast:

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In that image, a very precise rectangle was initially drawn. All the color around it is liquid bleed.

Do all of this with the tag before placing the dry finished version on the coat, including weathering and staining the white section.
 
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Thanks for that detailed reply and explanation, really appreciate it. I’m in the process of making the name tape so any suggestions are super helpful. I’m currently starting the weathering of the white cotton tape by soaking it in cold tea for a few days to create a first layer of aging.
 
Having some of this new hat build in,

Thread 'JAWS: Quint from the ground up (Shoes, Pants, Shirt, Jacket, Hat)' JAWS: Quint from the ground up (Shoes, Pants, Shirt, Jacket, Hat)

I am putting the process notes here so I don't fill up the other (not mine) with just testing.

The hat from Murray's (link in the thread listed here) was pink or Nantucket Red. The shape is spot on except two adjustments needed, lower the front pocket and shorten the bill. This bill will follow the sizes of my earlier hat build so just reference those.

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I washed the hats to remove any waterproofing so I could dye them. I used a combo of rit dye, green, black and brown. I bought two hats of different sizes to try.

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After the dye process the color looks great but the threads were still pink.
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I was able to remove the visible threads by removing the seam covers. Ya, seam covers, these are really nice caps. The front pocket thread can be removed along its upper edge because it will be folded down to straight and resewn (it comes with an upward curve).
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The bill on the large hat is passable for length but the bill on the smaller hat is very long and would need to be cut down like my original build. Please follow those earlier instructions for trimming.

So far this hat looks amazing with just dye and removing the pink visible threads. That is an easy yes for me on purchasing these from Murrays.
 
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