Playing with the face app and came across a pose and comp combo that I hadn't tried before.
Great work! What marker pen did you use to achieve that look?I printed my image on my home printer using card stock. I then razor cut it and popped out the pieces:
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Then I placed my name tape across the back of the paper. I placed my fabric strip on packing tape so the tape stuck out past both top and bottom edge. My fabric is 1 inch cotton fabric ribbon tape, gaberdine weave, I think. I placed one end well past the end of the name and slowly lowered the fabric onto the name from end to end. The paper was face down at this point. By slowly going from one side to the other, you can center each letter in the fabric while pressing down on the tape a little at a time. This centered the name. It makes a huge difference as 3/4 letters in a 1 inch space MUST be centered vertically to look correct. I had made the fabric about 4 inches longer than needed because it would be hard to perfectly center lengthwise as well. I cut it to the appropriate 5 inches afterward. The I is exact center so marking 2.5 inches to either end of the center of the "I" is perfect for length. I used a grey marker and did NOT saturate the image. I only dabbed down and purposely left some fabric still showing grain. This was in hopes of making it look weathered. It is certainly not dark on his coat and is like a tan gray on a dirty tan background. Like moldy hay on slightly less moldy hay. When done, I could see I need to really age the fabric tape as well. But the print is really impressive compared to screen images.
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I will play with weathering and aging tomorrow. My print is alcohol markers so I will need to dirty it up with water based staining, to avoid bleeds.
Great work! What marker pen did you use to achieve that look?
Finally got round to working on the name tape after far too long a delay.My markers are "Touchfive" brand alcohol markers. A competitor to the very popular Copic brand.
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However, even dollar store permanent markers can work because they are generally all alcohol markers in the permanent marker craft section. I used the cg6 and cg7, cool grays.
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Be wary and slow, tap at it, with at least a half second between taps. At the edges of the letters, draw inward to the center of the letter, dragging from on the stencil to into the letter and not from inside to outside. This will limit the amount of liquid soaking in at the edges. You need to let the alcohol fume away and not wick away. If you begin to saturate the cloth tag with the pen, it will wick out sideways and then needs to be dabbed up with an alcohol swab (again light on the alcohol). If you do need to do cleanup with cotton swabs be willing to use a lot. Once the swab is showing color it can also put it back on your tag so use another and another. Best bet is to slowly apply from the start, letting each added dot dry.
The lines will blur a little and will be needing some cleanup but the following is what happens when you go too fast:
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In that image, a very precise rectangle was initially drawn. All the color around it is liquid bleed.
Do all of this with the tag before placing the dry finished version on the coat, including weathering and staining the white section.
Finally got round to working on the name tape after far too long a delay.
Your suggestions of the 2 shades of grey works really well. I initially tried to age the fabric tape by staining it in tea but it didn't give the appearance I wanted, you can see the contrast in the pictures. After looking for a Khaki fabric dye that actually looked Khaki (they're all too bright green!) I finally found Dylon Pebble Beige that actually looks like period Khaki...result!
I'll give the ink a day or 2 to dry before cutting & stitching the tape to the jacket. I managed to find a late issue M51 in really good but worn condition that works perfectly.
That has two parts. First, I totally agree on sealing the tape but admittedly have not found a method I like. Using anything alcohol based just reactivates the ink and causes surges of upwelling color elsewhere. Spray on would create a gloss as would heat treated thermal clear (tshirt vinyl transfer) and soaking in any acrylics (clear) would make it stiff. If you find a method that works, please post again. Which brings me to point two: Your question on the background details will have a larger audience on BossThreads main Quint page but would be well served on Shaw's son's website, thedailyjaws. I will get links for both.Thanks, I found it was so much easier to staple the tape across an off cut of wooden kitchen worktop that I had kicking around to ensure it didn’t drift while stencilling. I’m still debating whether to try & find a way of sealing the tape & lettering that won’t show, maybe I’m just overthinking it!! Lol
I’d like to try & add some hidden provenance to the inside as well, maybe Quints old unit & service number perhaps, if plausible details exist somewhere?
You might be on to something by spraying the acrylic first and then doing the lettering afterI see what you did there!
It was a bit of a risk but it was a repeated fine spray, dried in between, then carefully flexed & sanded with a very fine paper. So far no adverse problems and it has added the worn aged texture I was hoping it might.
I'm wondering if I sprayed the acrylic first & then added the lettering whether it would reduce the bleed through on the cotton fibres. If I need another one then it will be worth trying.
I see what you did there!
It was a bit of a risk but it was a repeated fine spray, dried in between, then carefully flexed & sanded with a very fine paper. So far no adverse problems and it has added the worn aged texture I was hoping it might.
I'm wondering if I sprayed the acrylic first & then added the lettering whether it would reduce the bleed through on the cotton fibres. If I need another one then it will be worth trying.