Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

I just want to say 10000000000 time thanks im going to do this but i have a phew question
1. Could you explain to me what i would have to add or mod to your plans to make the jaw open and close and the codes

2.would your codes and method work with a strand of light i would need more to light up my mask

3. When i make this is it ok if i make a vid useing your method

and once again thanks
 
glad it worked!

(could have saved yourself some time & trouble by reading the whole thread... :) that has been covered/talked about several times before about the range/buzz sounds..etc)

good luck!
 
I just want to say 10000000000 time thanks im going to do this but i have a phew question
1. Could you explain to me what i would have to add or mod to your plans to make the jaw open and close and the codes

2.would your codes and method work with a strand of light i would need more to light up my mask

3. When i make this is it ok if i make a vid useing your method

and once again thanks

1.) depends.. this is up to you..
you could add another servo to the set up,....1-2 for face plate.. 1-2 for jaw movement..
the code would be very similar.. (except the range the for that would be smaller Id assume)

2.) not sure what you mean by STRAND OF LIGHT? strand of light for what? the eyes?
depending on whos code/approach you followed.. adding more leds to the eyes should be a problem if the battery pack, voltage regulator, transistor you use are all capable of meting your needs

I usually only follow my own or memebr's code/diagram as we have similar apporaches..

3.) Its fine by 'me' (just give credit to whomever you followed)....its always nice to get credit for the real (ground) work done that is used by others. :)
 
KEEP IN MIND IM USEING 7SINZZ(THE GUY WHO CREATED THIS FORUM)WIRING AND BLUEPRINTS
1. WHERE AND HOW WOULD I ADD
THE 2 JAW SERVOS SERVOS AND HOW WOULD I MOD THE CODE FOR THE 2 JAW SERVOS and the SHORTER rotation(IM USEING 7SINZZ CODE WHERE THE LIGBTS FLICKER on after closeing the helmet to simulate a powering up

2. I mean just the usual led,resistor,led,resistor setup
 
without an exact link to the diagram you followed....

from what I remember... some people (7sinzz too?) were not using a transistor.. are you using one your set-up?

post a link to what you are using.. copy paste the image here..

copy paste the code here..

help us, help you.. :)
 
K
Here's the link and the code
All im trying to do is mod his plans and code for where i can add 2 more servos for the jaw and maybe about 4 ledS(total 8 ledS) for each eye where his setup has 2 servos and 1 led link and code below and thank alit to every one in advance

LINK: http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-motorised-faceplate-electronics-tutorial-170853/

CODE: #include <Servo.h>
//servo 1
Servo myservo;
Servo myservo1;
int val; // variable for reading the pin status
int val2; // variable for reading the delayed/debounced status
int buttonState;
int pos = 0;
int pos1 = 180;
int servostatus = 0;
int switchPin =2; // Switch connected to digital pin 2
int ledPin = 5;
int ledPin2 = 18;
void setup() // run once, when the sketch starts
{
//servo 1

myservo.attach(9);
myservo1.attach(10);
pinMode(switchPin, INPUT);
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
buttonState = digitalRead(switchPin);
myservo.write(0);
myservo1.write(175);
pinMode(ledPin2, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() // run over and over again

//servo 1
{
val = digitalRead(switchPin); // read input value and store it in val
delay(10); // 10 milliseconds is a good amount of time
val2 = digitalRead(switchPin); // read the input again to check for bounces
if (val == val2) { // make sure we got 2 consistant readings!
if (val != buttonState) { // the button state has changed!
if (val == LOW) { // check if the button is pressed
if (servostatus == 0) { // is the light off?
servostatus = 1; // turn light on!

myservo.write(0);
myservo1.write(180);
delay(1000);
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
delay(50);
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
delay(00);
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
delay(50);
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
delay(00);


// fading
for(int fadeValue = 0 ; fadeValue <= 255; fadeValue +=5) {
// sets the value (range from 0 to 255):
analogWrite(ledPin, fadeValue);
delay(30);


}

} else {
servostatus = 0; // turn light off!


digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
delay(15);
digitalWrite(ledPin2, LOW);
myservo.write(180);
myservo1.write(0);






}
}
}
buttonState = val; // save the new state in our variable
}
}
 
I still dont have any idea what wiriing diagram you are using/following.. :)

that link just goes to first post...

and as I mentioned before... if you are using someones approach to isnt using a transistor (more than 1-2 leds).. you need to use someone elses wiring diagram.


*suggestion/advice:

if you want to do something (like have more than 1-2 leds as you are wanting to do).. why not just follow one of the 'better' diagrams and code posted that 'do' this?

why try to take 7sinzz diagram/code (which isnt what you want) and try to change/modify it to one that IS like you want? Why not just follow the correct code/diagrams from the beginning?

bottom line is you can not drive/power/run more than 1-2 leds on an Arduino pin...

your only choices are:

1.) use more pins on the arduino to add more leds (not a good solution IMO)

2.) use a transistor



adding in more servos is fairly easy.. as you can see they are defined as 'myservo' & 'myservo1'.. (we'd need to define 2 more servo instances)

myservo2 & myservo3

I suggest you get a solid BASE to work from though first (ie: the leds all figured out) before you go onto adding the more servos portion)

but post back.. and well get it all figured out..


also (suggestion,... use the CODE tags when posting code.) :)
 
Last edited:
OK ill do that just one more question.im on my phone so i can't upload a picture/diagram but im useing 7sinzz tutorial exactly how he has i think i can figure out the led problem and i think. I can rewrite the code for servo 3&4 but where would i add servos 3&4 into his diagram if possible?
 
Made007 Wish I knew a way to harden it but oh well Elmers and Plastie dip will have to do the trick. :thumbsup

Please do a google search for xrobots plastic coating foam method. It's VERY VERY nacky but the results are amazing. This was my most recent build using this method. It's not perfect but it's a hell of a lot quicker than pepping and body filling. This suit is just foam and smooth-on 65d and it is SOLID!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376384722.920266.jpg

7aba5uny.jpg
 
Thanks 7sinzz, I made another helmet to try an alternate method I devised with epoxy paste. I used a base coat of plasti dip then put a coat of paste epoxy couple coats more. Then ruff sanded to make smooth. Then I used regular epoxy resin liquid so and it was super smooth the helmet is hard now. I have to figure out what I want to use LOL. the problem is that this is my first time doing this and I rushed the second build of helm a little thinking it was just going to be for test but it looks so good now that I want to use it. Except the proportions are off a bit from the rush foam build. I should have taken pics of process but I didn't its in primer stage now I even left a couple of little divits in it for battle damage. I will take some video of the helm so you can see the hardness. I will look at Xrobots plastic coating method. I have been checking him out and stealth stuff for a while now before I thought I would give this a go. The problem is that the Finnish is not totally smooth like metal would be, Yours looks great but I can see the brush lines in the pics. That bothers me. I really love your build skills though man I hope mine comes out that well. I am doing IP so the paint job is going to be a big deal in itself. Thx for the suggestion. I may try it on a couple test parts of foam and see if I can get it to thin and still harden just have to use more coats that way there would be no brush lines.
 
Removing foot from mouth :facepalm I see that it would be great to use xrobot method. I think I will do so with the other helm. Compare and see what I like better. Thanks again.
 
The stuff is expensive for a gallon Smooth-Cast 65D - 1 Gallon Unit
Gel-curing bright white liquid plastic for roto-casting. 1A:1B mix ratio by volume.
Net Weight : 15.4 Lbs. 85 dollars MANNNNN have to decide if I wanna spend 100 bucks or not. Eposy resin works real nice too
 
Last edited by a moderator:
In response to the PMs asking me where I intend on mounting the servos, here's a quick video demonstrating my preferred mounting location.

Please note I am using the flicker code from the first post and I've changed the last 2 values to
Myservo: 150
Myservo1: 30

Due to my mounting location, any further range of movement would be obstructed.

http://youtu.be/OamzikSfKuM
 
Back
Top