Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

Hello, im new to this and i want to know how can i make the helmet servos work while still being able to remove the helmet of my head without disconnectiing any wires, and how to make it so that the flap servos can be moved independently.
I haven't bought any electronics, but im planning to buy an arduino uno for this. This would be for after i finish building my mark 42 armor.

Sorry if this has been answered before, but i haven't been able to read through all the post since i currently don't have internet access, so im using my mobile data and i cant afford to read all the posts using my phone data and also cant bookmark in which page i find usefull information for this.

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Made007 I will, this will be my first build attempt. I am a FX makeup kind of guy. Just getting into COS Play but it's amazing what you guys can do. Wish me luck on my build I will be using the foam method. Wish I knew a way to harden it but oh well Elmers and Plastie dip will have to do the trick. :thumbsup
 
This is most helpful, I did not realize the components were relatively inexpensive. I am great with hardware, a bozo when it comes to software. Starting my MK6 build when I get back from Afghanistan in a few weeks, this is a great starting point for servo activated systems. Shout out and thanks to 7sinzz!
 
Has anyone worked on the servos code for the flaps on the back: either 2 or 4. I was thinking of using either a y-splitter or bars to hook top and bottom on each side together.
 
I've finished my first build but i really want to do another helm with the motorized face plate! I've never done work like this before but with all this help it should be cake! I mean I didn't even know how to make an Ironman suit and now I've done it! As everyone else on this fantastic community would most likely do the same i'll share my trials and tribulations with you all as well!
 
Hey the Guys, My first build is going well. I have almost completed construction of the helmet. I would say about 90% done. Should be completed by tomorrow. I will post a couple pics when I have it all together. Then the glue coating and plasti dip next. Wish me luck !!! So far so good.
 
OK here are the pics of my first ever helmet build I would have liked it to be a bit cleaner but I am happy with it for the first try. I learned alot about how foam works with this. 2013-08-02 17.14.24.jpg

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2013-08-02 08.27.20.jpg2013-08-02 17.14.09.jpg2013-08-02 17.14.16.jpg2013-08-02 19.12.03.jpgOK here are the pics of my first ever helmet build I would have liked it to be a bit cleaner but I am happy with it for the first try. I learned alot about how foam works with this. 2013-08-02 17.14.24.jpg
 
I have a problem, I used the code in the first post (with a resistor of 10k Ohm and not 10 ohm), the circuit works but I one of the two servo motors (alternate) at rest is always under stress. There is some error in the code? Why I tried it with two other servo motors and not make this mistake. So, there should be no problem of links.

The servo motors are used these

31055 - Servocomando Hitec HS-55 , da Hitec a ?*8,75 su Robot Italy

Can you help me? I miss very little to finish this project! :(
 
Im not sure what your saying exactly..

but if 1 servo is always 'under stress' (making noise).. and another one works.. why not just use the one that works?

also.. try changing the range/degree of the servo movement.. (some dont truly go 180 degree range as they state)


lastly.. have you tried to initialize the servo to find there the middle position is? than add the arm/parts from that point?
 
Im not sure what your saying exactly..

but if 1 servo is always 'under stress' (making noise).. and another one works.. why not just use the one that works?

also.. try changing the range/degree of the servo movement.. (some dont truly go 180 degree range as they state)


lastly.. have you tried to initialize the servo to find there the middle position is? than add the arm/parts from that point?



I only tried with a servo motor, but it is under stress.
I tried to change grades, but it does not work, remains under stress.
He has no arm attached, is completely empty, it is simply the servo motor with nothing.

I do not understand why does not work, I followed the guide in the first post and the same code (the one in the first spoiler).
It is not a problem of resistance, I put a 10k ohm.

And I do not know what you mean with inizializare the servo motor in the middle position
 
IDEAS
Some ideas for you to think of: Id like the eyes to flicker before coming on to mimic powering up... Could anyone modify the code to make this happen? Is anyone able to shut off power to the servos when they are in their resting positions to stop the buzzing noise? Feel free to modify this code and post your own findings. From this point on we're working together.

this is precisely the problem, at rest there is the buzz of the servo motors that work.
 
this is precisely the problem, at rest there is the buzz of the servo motors that work.
Yes, I would think that the range the 0 to 180 in the code is not what your servo really is able to start from. Change the 0 to say 5 or 10 in the codes and then see if it is still under stress.
 
Hello,
I can't skim through 43 pages but I been reading a few but still have a few questions.

I'm planning on using Undertaker's servo position and wiring. I PM'ed him, but he seems to not log-on often and I running out of time...

(all credit goes to Undertaker for this picture)


So I'm going with this wiring diagram since like the idea of separate batteries running each servo (weight wont be that big of a difference).
My servos are kind of powerful and run off 7.4v but I plan on just running it on 4.5v which will weaken them, but wont damage them right?

Also the eyes have its own constant power and wont be wiring it to my Arduino. So what section of the code (posted in the fitst post) would I remove? or would I just leave it in and it wont effect anything?
 
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