StarkTonyE
Member
Hello guys!I've started my build today*-*
using cardboard.The chest is almost ready
using cardboard.The chest is almost ready
Hello guys!I've started my build today*-*
using cardboard.The chest is almost ready
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Here's a test of the left thigh. I used gaiatron's unfold using the standard scale because the length of my thigh is the same as the scale but unfortunately the whole thigh was way too wide for me so I cut 9mm on both sides that's why some detail lines are missing. I'm going to add it later. I hope this tips help you guys.
Thank you brand. The base scale would fit 180-190cm. I learned it the hard way because I scaled up (I'm 178cm) I just trimmed off the sides so it still fits me perfectly. U can see it in the side view pic - hard vertical lines
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Maybe this will helpA quesiton for anyone who may know or have insight - For cardboard pep builds using foam templates, how does one get around the thickness issue?
I noticed that foam builds take advantage of the flexible nature of foam and variety of foam thickness to shrink build time of armor plate details and shape where normal cardstock builds require tabs and "plate edges" to be made to imitate plate thickness of armor. Because of that, foam templates usually omit the edges as the foam will have an actual thick edge depending on the 5-10mm sheets I've read other builders use. I measured my cardboad sheets and 2 sheets on top of each other is roughly 6mm.
Should I print the tiny edges out of the parts I need from the omitted sections of the unfolds and use them? Maybe cut out 2 template pieces and stack them to imitate thickness? Just trying to get idea of options and what I can do. I'm really excited for this build and trying a cardboard build for the first time, but seemed to have hit a small snag. Any info or help is much appreaciated. Thanks guys!
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Damn, that looks great!. I'm so jealous.
Hi bud what most of us do is resin with face plate on then cut the face place off later when resin and bondo stage is finished always best to resin ourside helmet first then resin inside when dry [emoji106]Hey, this is kind of unrelated, but I'm new to the pepakura method. I'm working on the Sharkmark MKVI Helmet, and I finished the glueing, but I've run into a problem. I'm ready to coat it in resin, but I'm not sure whether I should coat it with the faceplate on or not.
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I want to add some functions to it, and I want the jaw to hinge open as well as the faceplate like in the movies.
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Any tips or help on this?
No because bondo will stick to it no problem just sand awayAlright, thanks! Also, does hot glue excess matter if you are going to use bondo and sand down afterward?