Dreads - The Continuing Saga...

Awesome stuff Jeff! I love seeing pictures of things you made long ago and are now sitting in your attic. The molds are awesome!

I would have to say that my experiment last night was a success as I was able to very easily produce a curved dread in my mold. The foam retains its memory as poured once set up so now I am looking at options to clamp a PVC shell around the new mold I will be making once I finalize the plug. Here are a few pics of essentially all I did and the results of it.

All I did was to simply pour the foam, clamp the top in place and prop the lower part of the mold at an angle with some boxes. I did not use a cord in this one and it released from the mold with no problems using the compressed air.

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The dread came out nicely curved as a result.
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I gave it a quick spray of plastidip and because it was poured without a rigid shell it did cause a little swelling in the silicone mold about 2" from the largest end so I cut through it with a knife at the largest point to take a look at the foam and this is what it looks like. It is actually darker than the lighting in the photo makes it appear.

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Overall while I would prefer it to be black all the way through this is certainly workable and I may look at experimenting with some black powder pigments since BJB will not sell the pigments for me to do it myself I just may have to try some on my own and see what happens. George if you read this, do you have any experience with mixing powdered tints in urethane foam? BJB makes it sound like it is a lot of trouble so will only pre-mix 5 gallon quantities at a time as a result. I am certainly willing to acquire some black powder tints and experiment...any recommendations? Type to use? Quantities to try? I have considered getting some iron oxide black powder tint and try mixing it about 5% by weight to part B with a good mixer just to see what happens or is there more to it than that?

Now that I have determined that a seamless pre-curved dread is workable I am going to focus on an easy way to make a curved PVC jacket to clamp around a silicone mold. Once I have determined the length to make my new plug I will make a straight PVC tube mold, split the mold and then I could either pour them straight if desired or clamp the mold in the curved jacket and pour the foam. So far this is working out well. I have a video I will post soon of me demolding this curved dread.

Steve
 
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Dude, that is awesome!  The dread came out great, and the curve helps allot.  Also, your new plug looks just about perfect.  Way to go on these Steve, I think we have found out new dread guru!

Brian
 
Thanks Brian. I really can't claim anything as I am only trying out what comes to mind and I am still working on it all. I am glad that the foam is working well and behaving for me though. I will be working to get the new mold made now in between family, work and making bios.  :D

Steve
 
After talking to you earlier I did a little searching and found this http://www.earthpigments.com/products/index.cfm?product_id=80.  This may be a better alternative to the liquid stuff.  As I mentioned as well, I almost tried the black tempera paint you find in craft stores.  I may pick some up and give it a try just for kicks.  Watching you do all this dread stuff is making me want to make some more of my own.

Brian
 
wonko said:
 I think we have found out new dread guru!

Brian
OHHH-IM so hurt Brian!!!!!!! :(   LOL  Great work Steve-- innovative--  How long does it take from start to finish to make one dread??
 
Hey Clay, I demold them after about 15 minutes, about 2 minutes to set up the mold and about 5 minutes to measure, mix and pour the foam so around 20 minutes turn around. If I had two silicone mold set ups I could be setting up and pouring one while the other is curing. Still a ways to go before getting to that point... 

Brian, that is exactly the stuff I was looking at trying out.

Steve
 
eaglewood said:
OHHH-IM so hurt Brian!!!!!!! :(   LOL  Great work Steve-- innovative--  How long does it take from start to finish to make one dread??
I meant no disrespect Clay...I apologize.

Looks like we have another dread guru  (y)  

Brian
 
It is seriously blowing my mind that there are 5 pages of Dred talk. Who knew making Dreds was such a complex thing.
Obsessed Much?!
 
MEANGENE83 said:
It is seriously blowing my mind that there are 5 pages of Dred talk. Who knew making Dreds was such a complex thing.
Obsessed Much?!
You are absolutely right...it is a lot more complex than I ever dreamed it would be but it is fun to try new things and the experience is invaluable.

Steve
 
Hey Steve great work and thanks for sharing. I've worked with bending conduit before and I used a Hot Box. It basically heats the PVC pipe up evenly so you could bend it any way you want. If you're still looking for ways to get the curve you want on the pipe you could give that a try. But it's an idea.
Ray
 
BlueGhostHunter said:
Hey Steve great work and thanks for sharing. I've worked with bending conduit before and I used a Hot Box. It basically heats the PVC pipe up evenly so you could bend it any way you want. If you're still looking for ways to get the curve you want on the pipe you could give that a try. But it's an idea.
Ray
Thank you Ray and welcome to the Lair. I have thought about heating PVC to bend it and need to learn more about a hot box and how it works but for now the pre-formed PVC conduit I am able to get at my local home improvement store may work fine. If not then I can investigate other options.

I have not posted much as I have been busy re-doing my plugs and molds and pouring silicone. I have one mold almost complete and another coming out of the tube today for the longest dread. I will be making two molds for each size, 18", 14" and 10" and then three curved jackets, one for each set of molds, in order to ramp up production capabilities. With a little effort I have been able to remove the silicone from the PVC tube with the dread plug still inside it so that I did not have to split the tube which has made for a very quick turn around to make another silicone mold since I do not have to rebuild the tube and flange each time. As a result I will simply cut the tube down for the shorter dreads. I will post more as I create the curved jacket I will use to form the dread in the mold as it sets. I have also gone ahead and ordered the Black Iron Oxide pigment in the link above and will try my hand at pre-pigmenting the foam to see how that works. We shall see.

The weight of the silicone required that I brace the top of the mold as the release agent prevents the hot glue holding it together at the base to not get a good bite. I learned this the hard way as I lost the first mold because the tube shifted.

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Just after pouring the end cap...

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I still have to make a fiberglass shell or mother mold for the end cap to help keep its shape under the pressure created by the foam but this is a shot of the first silicone mold (mint color) hanging next to the second mold in the PVC tube just after pouring it. Again, it is the same tube used to make the first mold so I was able to quickly pour it since the set up was all the same and this morning I poured the end cap for it.

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That is all for now.

Steve
 
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Here is the completed curved jacket. Conceptually it is fine but it has a few problems...

The end cap plugs the hole in the bottom used to pressurize it to release the dreadlock...

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I simply slid the silicone mold into the jacket...

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and this is the completed top cap.

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This is what comes out of the mold....notice the bulge on the outside curve dut to the inside shape of the PVC jacket while under pressure. This is not exactly what I am after here and so I plan to try some simple free rise dreads in the curved jacket to see how they turn out.

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In the meantime I got my Black Iron Oxide pigment and tried a quick experiment this morning. I mixed 10% by wieght of the pigment to Part B of the foam and mixed it for about 5 minutes with a paint mixer in my electric drill. The stuff is jet black. So I measured out about 27 grams of the tinted part B and added 10 grams of part A to it, mixed and poured a straight dread with no back pressure just to see what would happen. In the cooler temperatures of my basement and because I was in a hurry it did not set up enough before I tried to remove it from the mold so the skin tore in a few places....no big deal but the foam turned out much darker throughout than the Ultra Black pigment ever got it. There is potential here. I need to play some more with it in a warmer place and play with the ratios but you can see for yourself it is darker. I need to pour a bunch of this foam to get some idea about consistency as I may need to back down on the amount of Black Iron Oxide to say 5% and try it but I will start by better control of the temperature and ratios with the 10% mixture.

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Black Iron Oxide foam from the cup (on the right) compared to the Ultra Black liquid pigmented foam (on the left).

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A cross section of the dreads. IOX on the right UB on the left again.

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I am going to shift gears a bit and prepare another mold but in a different way. It will still utilize the same concepts based on what I have learned and they will still be seamless but I will start with pre-cuved dead plugs to better maintain the desired shape. Again, these are made from rigid foam, coated with 2 coats of watered down PVA and primed. Still more to do on them before they are ready to mold.

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That is all for now.

Steve
 
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Wow Steve, the difference is amazing.  The IOX seems to be the answer to getting the dreads black without the plastidip.  Can't wait to see where you go with this next.

Brian
 
Hey Brian, as I play with the 10% BIOX I believe it is a little bit too heavy on the pigment as it does impact how the foam rises and sets. I have since tried a 5% BIOX mixture and it gave better results as the foam behaves more like it should. It comes out softer and more consistent throughout. Still very black though. BJB had suggested pre-mixing a batch using the UB liquid pigmernt and so I may try that as well. The more I pour the more I learn so it can't hurt to try some different things. I also have some Smooth On So Strong black pigment I could try as well. I am getting a little time here and there to work on my new curved plugs. So far I am much happier with the way they are turning out than with previous plugs. Soon I hope to be laying up the fiberglass mold for them and will continue to document as I go. I am also not ruling out giving the Flex Foam-it 6 a try as well at some point. 

Steve
 
Steve ..The "so strong" will work great and save a lot in product cost. The fallowing pic is of a silicone sleeve that we do for one of our Masks. The "claws" are run in flex foam X with only a couple drops of so strong mixed in.  Its not proprietary, so it should work just fine in your Burman foam 

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Im curios ..why the trouble with casting a curved dread? If you cut the end at an angle and secure to the mask, it will give you the exact same effect. The film dreads where cast straight and applied the exact same way
 
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