Definitely sound advice, and already part of my plan for sure
But don't let that stop anyone from contributing thoughts. I'm sure there are a million things I have NOT thought of
The 89 MattMobile Build Thread.
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Definitely sound advice, and already part of my plan for sure
But don't let that stop anyone from contributing thoughts. I'm sure there are a million things I have NOT thought of
of course, like most advice, I am speaking from experience- I used to do a lot of custom VW Bug car mods back in the '80's, and I knew the wiring harness ran through the floor pan on the beetles, so I was happily cutting the roof off of an older bug for a roadster conversion, when I unexpectedly learned the older models ran the wiring through the roof, up over the drivers door and down the "C" piller. Fortunately the 1960's wiring was pretty easy to repair. Now, some newer vehicles have hundreds of wires, some even have fiber optic cables.
the_batdemon
Sr Member
I'm enjoying the build progress. Don't think I've seen a video account of a build like this, even on CLTC.
Hey Matt, given the condition of the glove box, what about "Fall of the Ratmobile" for a tear down title?
Hey Matt, given the condition of the glove box, what about "Fall of the Ratmobile" for a tear down title?
Hey Ian, I didn't know you hung around here. Yeah, I helped a little bit on the troop transport. That was a cool fun project. What was even funnier is when you tore down your street and the back panel dropped and you dragged it for two or three blocks. Sparks flying everywhere!
Hey gang! if anyone knows anything about car troubles, please read this recent blog post and give me your insight:
The Project Workbench: Overheating Caprice Work
The Project Workbench: Overheating Caprice Work
Judge Spartan
Sr Member
It may be the thermostat like your friend said, that is an inexpensive fix. If that does'nt fix the problem it may also be the water pump, much more expensive fix and hopefully your pump is on the outside of the engine or it will be a huge problem. Good luke Matt.
Judge Spartan
Sr Member
Matt I just looked up the replacement of the water pump for the "1995 caprice classic" and the water pump is located on the front of the engine block, very good news. It should be a fairly easy replacement.
TallDarkandDisfigured
Sr Member
Just started reading along here Matt, not sure why I never clicked on this thread before.
Anyway, not much I can say that hasn't been said aside from 2 things.
1- You really can't learn welding from a book. Believe me. You can learn alot about the theory of welding but the handskills take alot of practice, as does knowing what to look for as you are welding (undercut, lack of fusion etc) you will learn to see these as they occur and correct for them but it takes time. I'd recommend you have a licensed welder do your frame once you have it cut and your extensions in place. I'd volunteer my time but it's a little far to travel from east coast Canada to SoCal.. (Approx, 3400 miles.. :lol)
2- When you do get the frame cutting stage, be sure to cut it in steps, not straight lines. It gives you alot more welding area to make the frame secure. Then follow up on this by welding triangular or diamond shaped plates over the whole seam. This will help the stress on the frame flow away from the welded area.
Can't wait to see you progress on this build! You'll have to start forgetting family members names for all the new stuff you're gonna learn!
Anyway, not much I can say that hasn't been said aside from 2 things.
1- You really can't learn welding from a book. Believe me. You can learn alot about the theory of welding but the handskills take alot of practice, as does knowing what to look for as you are welding (undercut, lack of fusion etc) you will learn to see these as they occur and correct for them but it takes time. I'd recommend you have a licensed welder do your frame once you have it cut and your extensions in place. I'd volunteer my time but it's a little far to travel from east coast Canada to SoCal.. (Approx, 3400 miles.. :lol)
2- When you do get the frame cutting stage, be sure to cut it in steps, not straight lines. It gives you alot more welding area to make the frame secure. Then follow up on this by welding triangular or diamond shaped plates over the whole seam. This will help the stress on the frame flow away from the welded area.
Can't wait to see you progress on this build! You'll have to start forgetting family members names for all the new stuff you're gonna learn!
Make sure there's no air in your coolant system. If there is, that would explain the overheating.
See if the Haynes manual has any instructions on bleeding air from the system. if it does, go through that and try it again.
Water pumps aren't good at pumping air!
If that doesn't help, then it's probably your water pump. Especially if the temperature gauge is going high and the coolant lines are still cool to the touch.
Good luck!
--buddy
See if the Haynes manual has any instructions on bleeding air from the system. if it does, go through that and try it again.
Water pumps aren't good at pumping air!
If that doesn't help, then it's probably your water pump. Especially if the temperature gauge is going high and the coolant lines are still cool to the touch.
Good luck!
--buddy
Thanks for the help guys! I've got a few more details, but will post pics instead. I think there's actually a huge leak in the cooling system, but I haven't located it. I have an idea where it is, but not precisely. More soon.
Spotlights are currently for sale on ebay. I accidentally posted a link to it in this thread earlier, which I think has since been deleted.
OOOOH. I will give that a try! thanks!
After some assistance from an RPF member, I've determined that there is a crack in the side of the radiator. Found it leaking and everything. I've just ordered a replacement radiator. Hopefully it will be in tonight, so I can do the swap out tomorrow. Whoohoo! should be a fairly painless proceedure.
(Famous last words)
(Famous last words)
the_batdemon
Sr Member
You should have tried some Bars Leak before buying a whole new radiator. It might have fixed your problem at a fraction of the price. Unless the radiator is so damaged, the coolant is pouring out.
Wish you would have posted that a few hours sooner!! I think I will make it policy to always wait 24 hours after posting before taking action.
The good news is that the radiator install went really well. It was actually pretty easy, all things considered.
The bad news is, it is still overheating. There's no coolant spewing out of the side of the radiator,which is an improvement. But it still hits the red zone on the temperature gauge after about five minutes of driving. I checked the upper and lower radiator hoses after driving, both were hot.
I think I will make it policy to always wait 24 hours after posting before taking action.The good news is that the radiator install went really well. It was actually pretty easy, all things considered.
The bad news is, it is still overheating. There's no coolant spewing out of the side of the radiator,which is an improvement. But it still hits the red zone on the temperature gauge after about five minutes of driving. I checked the upper and lower radiator hoses after driving, both were hot.
Weaselhammer
Sr Member
could be a stuck thermostat, the car probably sat up for a while before you bought it right ?
I am currently not losing coolant, which is a big step forward.
Replace the thermostat next???
Replace the thermostat next???
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