Sa1yan5pirit
Active Member
What bottom cap could be used for the DV6? Thinking about converting and old graflex that's been laying around
Oh god, if only we knew. This is currently one of my lines of research!What bottom cap could be used for the DV6? Thinking about converting and old graflex that's been laying around
Sorry if it's been already disscussed, I haven't found anything related to it.
You might have noticed how low the Kobold clip is on the original MOM
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on most of the replicas you can see the kobold sits a bit higher (I took my unfinished version but I've seen the same setting on others MOM replicas)
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I first thought it was due to focal distorsion but the kobod seems really lower on the original prop.
It doesn't seem cut though but I have the growing impression the bottom cap seems pushed in
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Any thoughts?
Here’s my go at roygilsing kit! Swapped out as many vintage parts as I could; vintage folmer, ball catch, body and box screws, Kobold and rivets, and grips. Also removed the bottom can lip and flipped the stamped plate.
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Incredible detail and accuracy, 3251bimmer. Outstanding work!Here’s my go at roygilsing kit! Swapped out as many vintage parts as I could; vintage folmer, ball catch, body and box screws, Kobold and rivets, and grips. Also removed the bottom can lip and flipped the stamped plate.
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This is what I do:So tempted to build that soon. Do I've to drill the big holes 10mm and then countersunk with a 12.4-13mm bit?
How thick was the brass plate?Hey guys long time watcher here and first time poster, i think i might have a little bit of a discovery for the dv6 bottom, upon working on roys beautiful kit and a beat up vintage of mine i began to build and assemble my grip section / kobold area, i know the general idea is that the end cap has resin and paint but upon a second glance at this photo and colour showing through i do believe the end is actually a brass cap thats been painted to blend back in, you can see the rough edges and tooling marks from metal sheet sheers/ tin snips just near the edges, i will try my best to show my rough template and crude quick test with some brass i had, bare in mind my brass is way thicker than it would be but if you look closely you can definitely see the cap shape and once you see it you cant unsee its placement. To me this explains why the end would have been painted back to a silver and why so much of the gold brass is coming through, its not a common area of ware for a 3 cell bottom and when you look around the edges you can pick out the crude cuts that they attempted to make somewhat rounded. Hope this helps and definitely would love to know your thoughts.
So, we did figure this out years ago and most people have found the plate to be less than 1mm thickHow thick was the brass plate?
I just post the link here for convenience:Check out the LV Saber thread, we have currently ongoing research into the endcap of this saber. Rim was lathed off, endcap was removed and probably put back in upside down, with the plate on top.
Sorry if it's been already discussed, I haven't found anything related to it.
You might have noticed how low the Kobold clip is on the original MOM
on most of the replicas you can see the kobold sits a bit higher (I took my unfinished version but I've seen the same setting on others MOM replicas)
I first thought it was due to focal distorsion but the kobod seems really lower on the original prop.
It doesn't seem cut though but I have the growing impression the bottom cap seems pushed in
Any thoughts?
The top of the DV6 is likely an early Folmer, which is typically nearly a “true chrome” finish.Hi people.
I´m doing a christmas build with Roy´s kit and a blemished Roman´s shell and want to know your opinions on polishing/buffing? It seems to me that if you compare reference photos of the MoM the top half of it is very bright compared to similar period pics of Luke´s Graflex sabers... What´s the general consensus?