P2 Armor UPDATE Backplate finished.

[Mortal Immortal]

update on the armor.
I finished casting the backplate. Painted it and you can view it below. I have encountered a few design problems tho. 1. How to connect the two piece but still make the armor able to be put over my head and onto a suit. Once they are attached firmly its nearly impossible to squeeze into this rig. Nevermind the shoulder piece which will have to be attached.

The center section where the MEDIPACK should be is where it will be attached. It will be hollow, room for battery packs or whatver else needs to be stored out of view.

peace out homies.
PS I dont entirely like the paintjob. Dunno why but it aint jiving with me...
THIS IS ALSO A CONTINUING WORK IN PROGRESS.

I like how it looking and how your making it fit all together.

 

[Mr Fett]

WOW! What a work of art that backplate is.

 

[Ruffkintoy]

Looks amazing Gene! How are you attaching it right now?

 

[MEANGENE83]

Right now the armor is connected with zip ties for the picture.

I tried to put it on while it was connected kinda loosely with the zip ties and..... it dont look its gonna work well if i connect the two pieces together solid. So i think i am gonna re think what i will make the castings out of.
Instead of fiberglass for the front chest armor. i will either make it out of a foam i used once on filling heads or use some type of rubber.

I need something flexible in the front so i can open it up a wee bit to put over my head.

The foam i mentioned is a cold foam from monster makers which i have used before for dreds and for foam filling heads. Monstermakers directions say you can play with the A and B mixture to make it more dense or more soft. So i may do that or at least give it a shot.

Any thoughts of suggestions?

 

[Pmanderfx]

wow great job man..keep me posted on what we talked about in chat..great work

 

[Master Hobbs]

try Smooth-on C-1515 gene for the front

 

[carlart]

Gene, you could do what Scott A. does for the P1 torso---not sure what your mold is made out of.
He paints in a skin of latex FIRST. Then, he adds cold foam from Smooth On as a backer. You really need an outer skin for high definition. The foam all by itself will give you a ****** look.

Scott's mold is a fiberglass outer shell with an inner core of brushable urethane rubber, which the latex will not stick to. The way he does it is to secure the mold (with a layer of latex already painted in) to a mannequin he has with a roll of static cling plastic (like shippers use). He then pours in the cold foam, making sure none of it leaks out. The wrapping plastic is great for this purpose as well as preventing the mold from coming off the mannequin during the foam's expansion.

 

[MEANGENE83]

Carl that plastic wrap idea is the key to what i need!!!

I totally see what i need to do now to make a foam backed latex piece. That plastic wrap you described is used at my Tweeter stores warehouse all the time, i could snag a huge roll of that plastic wrap and it would work perfectly...

I am also gonna try the Smooth on urethane rrubber pete mander is looking up for me.

Then we will see what works better.

 

[hunterpred210]

Amazing Gene very cool. The paint looks like real etal great job bro.

 

[MEANGENE83]

Thanks for the comments buddy.

I have just decided i hate the paint 100%. I am gonna repaint it in a new unique style i figured out painting my P2 bio the other day.
The paint never worked out the way i wanted it to...

 

[Sinister]

It looks wicked Gene. That is a work of art. Shame you don't like the paintjob but it's your baby and daddy knows best. That thing is gonna rock when it's 100% done can't wait to see it
Good luck

 

[Usurper]

Cant you make yourself another one, incase you change ya mind and suddenly love it ? hehehe

be a shame to waste that paint job bud .

 

[dark hunter]

beautiful piece there man hope it all looks great together