Kylo Ren Voice Changer HELMET (not mask)

The buttons can be removed by unscrewing the housing they are in, no need to cut anything.
 
Yes Same for the battery and side buttons. I cut the parts off of the buttons so that I can have a smooth bump free interior to line with foam. But yes you absolutely just weld those on with the buttons in tact.
 
I've never done any welding, but I'm really interesting in doing what you did here. I picked the helmet up last night, and overall I'm really impressed! The voice changer/electronics are pretty garbage, but no one really cares about that anyway.

The seams are a little more obvious since they don't close completely flush, but on-display, this looks great. I'm definitely interested in the visor conversion though…
 
I've got the black helmet on order, but thinking of getting the Anovos too.

can anybody who owns the black mask tell me any glaring differences between the two?

the black mask seems narrower to me. less flare on the sides of the helmet?

any advice or ideas?
 
In my comparisons so far, it seems the flare on the back isnt quite as long as it should be on the Hasbro one, but the overall size and shape is correct. The cheek areas need to have a few small holes added, and some of the extruded areas inside the cheek holes that are there, removed. Speaker and breathing holes need to be filled.

Overall the detail is a lot softer than the Anovos of course, because its molded abs plastic. There arent many, if any undercuts that should exist in a few places because of the way they molded it. But those can be fixed. For instance the layered effect of the faceplates isnt as obvious on the Hasbro one.
 
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In my comparisons so far, it seems the flare on the back isnt quite as long as it should be on the Hasbro one, but the overall size and shape is correct. The cheek areas need to have a few small holes added, and some of the extruded areas inside the cheek holes that are there, removed. Speaker and breathing holes need to be filled.

can't decide on the Anovos, it's a lot of money. I guess I could always cancel it, if I'm happy with the hasbro.
 
That stuff looks good, but I would love to know how tough the bond is and if the plastic degrades after curing. I've heard of UV cured plastics not being good uncoated. This would be great for having around the shop.
 
Understand your concerns for sure. Like I stated haven't used it yet myself BUT I watched one particular review ( can't find it right at the moment ) where a guy used the stuff to repair one of his drones props. He fixed a broke in two pcs prop and flew the drone around without any problems. That sold me on trying it. To me if it's got that kind of bond then it should be strong enough to keep two shells together that already "snap" together in the 1st place. Additionally, I was thinking more along the lines of the initial bond and then filling/sculpting using apoxy sculpt for the aethestics and Im sure it will secure the pcs even more. Might not even be necessary, might find the Bondic is all you'll need.
 
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Overall the detail is a lot softer than the Anovos of course, because its molded abs plastic.

Does that mean someone could load up ABS filament in a 3D-printer pen and seal the helmet up?

I haven't done this, I don't even own one of those pens. It just occurred to me out of the blue.
 
It's a lot easier to melt ABS in some acetone and lightly brush it into the seams.

Made many quick repairs this way on ABS pieces and they always hold perfectly.
 
My plan for my helmet (which arrives Monday! Yay!) is to get it in as well as I can with the tabs, and then use some scrap black ABS I have melted into ABS glue to fill the seam. Then just to be extra safe, I'll probably back it with some epoxy.

I actually bought a wood burning tool with a bunch of different tips as well to add in all the extra battle damage and deep lines. After seeing how fantastic Jamestan 's helmet turned out, there is no way I could resist!

I'll take pics documenting the process and write something up if there is any desire for it!
 
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I actually tried to use some abs glue and thicker abs putty that I made Using acetone and pieces that came off the helmet itself, but it didn't work. The acetone didn't have enough time to met into the abs before drying I'm guessing. Even actual abs cement used for gluing up abs pipes didn't hold very strong. and that's after I glued and clamped and let the thing sit to cure. Two part plumbers epoxy seemed to have the best hold other than just melting the whole thing with a soldering iron.

I'm actually almost done with the front, which was the most soldering out of the entire helmet, the seams were a cakewalk compared to the front.

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I added the side jaw pieces for the right layered look, and fixed the rectangle details on the front (which were a big PITA). Just gotta re attach the front now.
 
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While it's off are you going to make the larger face plate as well? I've been thinking of perhaps adding some magnets to switch between the face plates, as I really like both.
 
I don't understand, which faceplate are you gonna be switching with? A different one from another kylo ren mask? I I'm just going to reattach the one that I took off.

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Sorry, let me explain.


In the film there are two (that we know of) different face plates. One looks larger, covering the vents and rectangles, and the other looks smaller as if it had been cut down.

I am going to sculpt it a little larger and mold it, and then cut it down so I have a faceplate for both looks. Make sense?

I figured you may be as well since you removed it.
 
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