JFcustom's FOAM files

Search for a thread named "JFcustom's FOAM files", it should be somewhere among the first pages of the "replica costumes" section. I don't know this guy but he gathered the most common Iron Man suits ready for foam building.
 
Search for a thread named "JFcustom's FOAM files", it should be somewhere among the first pages of the "replica costumes" section. I don't know this guy but he gathered the most common Iron Man suits ready for foam building.

LOL! Here's my latest construct from your beautiful files, step one. 001.JPG
 
Hey Jf, i was trying out your method on modifying files for foam your way and its not working for me because some pieces i can make them as on piece but others just look really bad on the program and i am guessing ill have to join them manually once cut out. But thats not how you do it since your files are as one piece in the program and you barely need to mod them by hand. So my question is , do you unfold completely the file?? Like make it again??? Or do you just mod the file as it already is???


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At the beggining I used to quickly join the pieces of an already unfolded file in order to get larger ones and save time when building. But the fact apeared that a foam build is much cleaner if the seams -insignificant in a paper build- are located at some strategic places, along the design of a suit part or over the edges of a helmet... Moreover, some unfolder use the hateful function "join adjacent edges" that can not be unset unless you undo the unfold and start over.

So, I actually always undo the previous unfold (if any) to start from zero.
 
So although not a JF file I feel its relevant in case others want a Stormtrooper helmet to go with JFs files, here is the finished product of the helmet JF linked to.

I have tested Regular quick drying white gloss paint from B&Q and it works very well with this foam, it adheres straight away without the need for a sealent like PVA first and it does not crack when bent etc so I will be painting this suit with a brush and tin of paint, hopefully I will be done with the white paint by Saturday, if not Monday.
 

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At the beggining I used to quickly join the pieces of an already unfolded file in order to get larger ones and save time when building. But the fact apeared that a foam build is much cleaner if the seams -insignificant in a paper build- are located at some strategic places, along the design of a suit part or over the edges of a helmet...

I use a similar process to convert ordinary pep paper builds into foam---I print, cut and tape the paper pieces together, and then cut the finished pieces apart again at strategic places (seams etc) to make large subassemblies, which I then trace onto foam and cut out. It takes a little longer and takes some forethought, but it means you can use foam on any pep file without having to convert it first.
 
Hey JF, I have a question regarding your scaling equation. Does it work for every armor part in the same way? First, I changed scale to 187 cm (I'm 184, so added just 3 centimetres). Started with something little, like fingers. After gluing foam parts, they didn't fit. Enlarged scale to 190 cm. Haven't saw major difference in templates but proceeded anyway. It's still too small. And I'm quite slim (71 kg).
 
Hey JF, I have a question regarding your scaling equation. Does it work for every armor part in the same way? First, I changed scale to 187 cm (I'm 184, so added just 3 centimetres). Started with something little, like fingers. After gluing foam parts, they didn't fit. Enlarged scale to 190 cm. Haven't saw major difference in templates but proceeded anyway. It's still too small. And I'm quite slim (71 kg).

It works for every armor part in the way that the scal is linear for distances. Not for areas, not for volumes, but for distances. It follows the ancesrtal rule of three, that keeps two ratio equal. If you add 3cm to the size of your suit, you actualy add something like 0.03cm to the width of your fingers parts. That represents almost nothing at all, or if you want, a bit more that the quarter of the thickness of a microSD card...

When you build gloves, you must measure your hands... (It seems weird to point this out.:behave )
As well, when you build a helmet, measure your head.
And before building your boots part, measure your feet (or your shoes).

Everyone is not shaped the same as the virtual 3D dummy around which the suit was modeled. Moreover when it's about hands, feet, and head. ;)

... And It's available in red, so it will be easier to cut parts out of foam. Cutting parts traced by black marker on a black foam is a pain in the butt.
I couldn't agree more ! :D
 
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It works for every armor part in the way that the scal is linear for distances. Not for areas, not for volumes, but for distances. It follows the ancesrtal rule of three, that keeps two ratio equal. If you add 3cm to the size of your suit, you actualy add something like 0.03cm to the width of your fingers parts. That represents almost nothing at all, or if you want, a bit more that the quarter of the thickness of a microSD card...

When you build gloves, you must measure your hands... (It seems weird to point this out.:behave )
As well, when you build a helmet, measure your head.
And before building your boots part, measure your feet (or your shoes).

Everyone is not shaped the same as the virtual 3D dummy around which the suit was modeled. Moreover when it's about hands, feet, and head. ;)

Thanks for reply. In other post you've said:

This is the basical way to operate. But if you know you have realy short legs and long arms, for example, you may want to take measurements on your body and specify a well matching ratio for each of your suit parts... I don't like this approach because IMO it breaks the harmony of proportions.

so I didn't wanted at first to manipulate anything other than scale. And I would keep it constant, when certain parts have the same values (like upper palm and lower palm). Well then, looks like I'll have to find good old measuring tape. Can't believe how you've finished your suit in less than a week, having to go through so much trouble.
 
It's true. I'm owned ^^ Scale, don't scale, you're lost.

We can often see at first sight when someone had to enlarge his abs part. In these cases something looks inevitabily not movie-acurate. Proportions are broken. But it's not a matter of choice : don't enlarge some parts and you simply can't suit up :\ That would be bad.

I didn't encounter any particular problem, except my wife grumbling "damned quit your childishness, we didn't even talk since last friday!" and such things. I didn't resize anything, and already knew the suit was called to be a bit too large. It was whether that, or spending hours groping for a perfect scale and finding myself with only half a suit done at D day. I dropped the gloves, because grip restrictive, short in time, and anyway they would have been too narrow. Boots are way too deep, helmet too large, and a closer look explains a lot about why it took me less than a week to complete the whole thing.

From your height and your weight, I think you can input a unique value in every part of your suit, and only rescale gloves boots and helmet separately.
 
Love that! I'm gonna bevel the edges for sure, but sculpting some feathers sounds brilliant! Working on that tonight after work!

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I'm using techniques for construction I learned from your Deathstroke build video!

Thank you very much for posting that.... Means quite a bit knowing it's helping a little. Even if there are no explosions.....
 
Alright, kinda hard to see, but I've bevelled the edges now. Time to start resining-looking forward to the paint job!001.JPG

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Actually, it needs some Bondo as well, I think.
 
Might I ask what thickness you used for the Hawkman Looch? The one fellow who did Hawkgirl said he wished he did it in 3-5mm, just asking because I really wanna take at the both of them

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Might I ask what thickness you used for the Hawkman Looch? The one fellow who did Hawkgirl said he wished he did it in 3-5mm, just asking because I really wanna take at the both of them

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
I'm at work right now, but when I get home tonight I'll check and let you know:) Whatever it is though, I might suggest a thinner one for the wings-as you can see, with the double thickness they get pretty thick.
 
From your height and your weight, I think you can input a unique value in every part of your suit, and only rescale gloves boots and helmet separately.

I did some research on scaling methods and I found these two:

How To Scale Pepakura.mp4 - YouTube

and

http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f32/how-scale-your-pepakura-armour-tutorial-35523/

I suggest you should add them to the first post (if you will wind them useful ofc), so there wouldn't be any questions like mine anymore.'t

So majority of armor parts I'm going to scale by measuring body parts and inputting it into Designer (keeping in mind the parts "sticking out", like elbow in forearm). For hand parts I'm pretty much gonna do trial on error (anyway 5mm foam also may be too thick for hands). Boots will be easier, I'll just measure around the outer sole, add few centimetres to it, and will somehow recrate this value on IM boot's down parts by manipulating the scale.

Again, thanks for tips, hope that this is the last time I was stuck on this costume-making journey.
 
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