JFcustom's FOAM files
- Thread starter JFcustom
- Start date
A few of these started as paper unfolds, before being converted to foam. A paper build would not work well with foam-unfolded templates (for a number of reasons), but many of these pieces still have unfolds for paper floating around the forum.
The Ronin
Well-Known Member
You could also back convert them by adding the other pieces back to the unfold. I've done that when I just couldn't find an unfold for anything other than foam.
Gotta be careful when you do that though... On some models, JF and others have modified them in 3d software before pulling them back into pepakura, so some of the pieces for a paper unfold may not be there anymore. Most I'm sure are fine, but it's something to consider. Also, finding an original paper unfold will also have all the details that may have gotten edited out later, and will of course already be unfolded.
sleeper341
Active Member
Hi, I've never built in foam before but am going to have my first attempt using the Star Lord file from here. I've never made anything from a pep file before either. I have a question which is probably very obvious to those of you who know what they're doing. When I open up the file and see the sheets I need to print, some of the sections of helmet overlap on to other sheets. Do I just print them like this then cut them out and stick together the bits that are across two sheets or more then use them as the stencil on my foam
OR do I have to reformat the file in order to get each part of the helmet on to individual a4 sheets?
Thanks
OR do I have to reformat the file in order to get each part of the helmet on to individual a4 sheets?
Thanks
They can be printed across the sheets, and then attached back together after you cut them out.
In Pepakura Designer, go under the tab SETTINGS>PRINT AND PAPER SETTINGS and make sure that the print alignment marks for multiple pages box is checked. This will generate registration marks (in the form of crosshairs) at the corners of each printed sheet that you can align multiple pages with.
sleeper341
Active Member
Thank you 
so now my second silly question is: Do I print the pages with the colours showing, or print the plain white images that appear when I click on "set materials to faces" I presume the white ones but thought I would check before I go steaming ahead
so now my second silly question is: Do I print the pages with the colours showing, or print the plain white images that appear when I click on "set materials to faces" I presume the white ones but thought I would check before I go steaming ahead
Thank you
Some peps are set up with textures and colors on them, it depends on what you are trying to do with them. If a pep comes with the textures on the pieces, I always turn that off (so the sheets are untextured) before I print; Otherwise you're wasting a lot of printer ink on the imaging. You can just check off texturing under OTHER>Texture on/off.
Just to be clear, clicking the set materials to faces box does the same thing as what I described above; if a model has no texture (no images/pictures/etc. on the faces), Pepakura just fills this in with grey. Turn it off to save ink by either method above. Somebody else might have a use for that shading, but I have never found a use in my builds.
Bogleo
Well-Known Member
Hey JF, about what you said for filling in gaps and valleys with a silicone bathroom mastic-glue-gun, do you think this would work?
I am building Iron Man mark 7 using your foam edits of darkside501st's files. It's my first time working with foam, and making a costume in general, and there are gaps and valleys in what I have made so far.
I am building Iron Man mark 7 using your foam edits of darkside501st's files. It's my first time working with foam, and making a costume in general, and there are gaps and valleys in what I have made so far.
Just make sure it's paintable, or put it on before you seal everything. I just use cheapo paintable silicone caulking and it works great, even after sealing.
I don't have it in front of me, but if yours says it'll take both oil and latex then you're golden. There really isn't much of a science to it, every type of silicone I've used labeled as 'paintable' has worked well for me.
I seal with both a PVA glue-water mix (Elmer's glue-all) and then Plastidip spray. I've found that I can use the silicone caulking to fix knicks, holes, whatever, at any stage all the way up to priming, without any problems.
I seal with both a PVA glue-water mix (Elmer's glue-all) and then Plastidip spray. I've found that I can use the silicone caulking to fix knicks, holes, whatever, at any stage all the way up to priming, without any problems.
Bogleo
Well-Known Member
Do you follow JFcustom's advice: "The only thing is you must paint it or primer it with any spray you want before it's dry, or nothing will further hold on to this stuff." ?
What are the glue-water ratios, and how many coats of Plastidip?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to this and still learning.
What are the glue-water ratios, and how many coats of Plastidip?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to this and still learning.
I've not had problems with paint sticking, but I also try and get all of my caulking done before I plastidip.
My typical procedure is this:
-fill any large gaps/cracks/imperfections with silicone caulking, smoothed in with my fingers
-At least 2 coats of PVA glue and water, mixed 10:1. I don't water it down much at all. I also keep an eye on the coats as they dry, usually coming back every half-hour for the first two hours to knock down any runs with a damp paintbrush. It's A LOT easier to wipe these down while still drying than to cut them down later.
-After PVA, I shoot a couple of coats of Plastidip, just enough to get a solid color base. The uniform color will make any knicks/gaps/etc. immediately pop out, so after the Plastidip dries I go through and finish filling imperfections with more silicone, and spray over the repairs with Plastidip.
-A final heavy coat of Plastidip to get the color all uniform, and then I go in with my primer/paint. I also try to handle the pieces as little as possible once they are Plastidipped, just to keep them clean and keep oils and such out of the finish.
As for using after painting....
I had to modify a suit a while ago after it was painted and ready to go, building a new reactor insert and bezel in the chest to fit a custom piece. I cut out the old bezel, made a new one from foam, and then did all of my regular sealing work before gluing it onto the painted chest. The reactor bezel had a slight gap due to the curvature of the chest panel, so I then came though and filled the gap with this stuff:
Nothing fancy about it, I've gotten it at Menards and Home Depot for a buck and a half.... Anyways, I applied it, smoothed it with my finger and a wet rag, and let it cure. The next day, came through with my Rustoleum 2X primer/paint and painted the bezel and chest surround to cover the repair. Looooong story short, the results looked great and I never had and problems with adhesion or finish:
Will this always work? Of course not. I try and spray any late repairs with an extra coat of Plastidip before priming and painting just to give an extra level of protection. I have never had any problems, other's mileage may of course vary. :rolleyes
My typical procedure is this:
-fill any large gaps/cracks/imperfections with silicone caulking, smoothed in with my fingers
-At least 2 coats of PVA glue and water, mixed 10:1. I don't water it down much at all. I also keep an eye on the coats as they dry, usually coming back every half-hour for the first two hours to knock down any runs with a damp paintbrush. It's A LOT easier to wipe these down while still drying than to cut them down later.
-After PVA, I shoot a couple of coats of Plastidip, just enough to get a solid color base. The uniform color will make any knicks/gaps/etc. immediately pop out, so after the Plastidip dries I go through and finish filling imperfections with more silicone, and spray over the repairs with Plastidip.
-A final heavy coat of Plastidip to get the color all uniform, and then I go in with my primer/paint. I also try to handle the pieces as little as possible once they are Plastidipped, just to keep them clean and keep oils and such out of the finish.
As for using after painting....
I had to modify a suit a while ago after it was painted and ready to go, building a new reactor insert and bezel in the chest to fit a custom piece. I cut out the old bezel, made a new one from foam, and then did all of my regular sealing work before gluing it onto the painted chest. The reactor bezel had a slight gap due to the curvature of the chest panel, so I then came though and filled the gap with this stuff:
Nothing fancy about it, I've gotten it at Menards and Home Depot for a buck and a half.... Anyways, I applied it, smoothed it with my finger and a wet rag, and let it cure. The next day, came through with my Rustoleum 2X primer/paint and painted the bezel and chest surround to cover the repair. Looooong story short, the results looked great and I never had and problems with adhesion or finish:
Will this always work? Of course not. I try and spray any late repairs with an extra coat of Plastidip before priming and painting just to give an extra level of protection. I have never had any problems, other's mileage may of course vary. :rolleyes
