COMPLETED -- Converting the FX toy X-Wing

Tread and Phase -- the problem with an unconverted toy is the slop in the wing connections, exacerbated by a "lazy" wing hinge mechanism.

Regardless of the splay of the wing roots, the wings themselves will droop, (such that the upper wing will not be a straight line) due to the looseness of the wing connection clips. This will be corrected by permenantly affixing the wings to the roots, possibly with metal supports, so they won't droop.

Also, the hinge mechanism, by default, relaxes to a rather narrow splay. But you can physically open it further (hyper-extend it, so to speak). I will do this too, and keep it in this position by using shims. You'lll see how I'll do it when I take pics.

The combination of corrections should allow nearly 100% control over the geometry of the overall wing splay/spacing angle.

As Bryan's post points out, we all have varying opinions and reference material regarding teh degree of splay. And I believe its been established that the studio models varied a bit as well. So my model will fit my perception and interpretation.
 
That's exactly what I did with my F/X. I used shimes to increase the splay of the wings to where I felt they should be. I also glued the wings themselves to the engine pod mounts to reduce the flex and potential drop. Has worked well so far and I have had this set up for about 1 year. I can take some pics later if it would help. :)
 
Excellent thread. :thumbsup
I'd like to apply the same principles to "accurizing?" :p the Hasbro TIE....

Very cool.
 
I gave a Hasbro Tie a new paint job which went a long way to making it better. I also just bought the Saga collection Vader X-1 and I am going to try and make that look better, too.
I took some weathering to my F/X X-wing and made it look more worn, That brought out some of the nice detail this toy has, especially around the engines and nose.
 
<div class='quotetop'>(PHArchivist @ Aug 11 2006, 02:15 AM) [snapback]1298055[/snapback]</div>
Took a fun pic of most all of the X-Wing fuselages... Only missing were the Capt Cardboard and Icons (oh and the smallest of the ERTL but that's about the same as the FM)... So its Maxi-brute, FX, ERTL Electronic, ERTL mid-sized, and FM. Will have to post it later, but is fun to look at.
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OK...

Sort of tangential to the thread here, but I pulled out my Capt fuselage, and alos a build-up of the smallest ERTL. Interestingly, the little ERTL is still bigger than the FM. I'm going to pick up the small ERTL kit today, hopefully, and add it and the CC into this photograph.

The image will show ALL available X-Wings except the Icons.

OK here it is...

From the left:

Fine Molds...ERTL small...ERTL mid-sized...ERTL Electronic...FX toy...Captain cardboard...Maxi-Brute

Comp001.JPG
 
<div class='quotetop'>(PHArchivist @ Aug 12 2006, 10:22 AM) [snapback]1299079[/snapback]</div>
OK...

Sort of tangential to the thread here, but I pulled out my Capt fuselage, and alos a build-up of the smallest ERTL. Interestingly, the little ERTL is still bigger than the FM. I'm going to pick up the small ERTL kit today, hopefully, and add it and the CC into this photograph.

The image will show ALL available X-Wings except the Icons.
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Can't wait to see the image...love the size and accuracy differences and comparisons.
 
Continued working on the guns today... Primered up, they look real nice with little in the way of mods... Stock, they have some large openings in the forward ring that encircles the heat sink. Filled, they look great.

Guns001.JPG


Also took a look at the wings. I've decided I do need to fill the inside of the wings, and will likely need to add some metal support in there. But I'm still mentally chewing on this one.

Wings001.JPG


Played with the engines a bit. Take a look at the photo and tell me what you think in terms of porportions. The white cans are those of the Maxi-Brute (with a small connecting collar cut off). And by the way, the Maxi-Brute cans slip perfectly over the existing turkey feathers.

Engines002.JPG


And I continued to massage the lower hull... It takes a bit of work.
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Hand Solo @ Aug 14 2006, 03:49 AM) [snapback]1299855[/snapback]</div>
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And I continued to massage the lower hull... It takes a bit of work.[/b]

Careful.

You'll go blind. :D
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:lol :lol :lol

Incidentally, ladies ( :p ), this thread would not be possible with out Wackychimp's photo-hosting.

:cheers to the monkey.
 
I am just loving this thread.

How is the size of the pilot to the size of the craft? Is it correct or are you changing him? Also,.. what are you doing with the R2 slot?

The scale stuff here is tripping me up a bit. I am looking forwrd to seeing this through to the end.

Very kewl.
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Kuhn Global @ Aug 14 2006, 05:40 AM) [snapback]1299900[/snapback]</div>
How is the size of the pilot to the size of the craft? Is it correct or are you changing him? Also,.. what are you doing with the R2 slot?

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The pilot seems to be scaled pretty well. Not sure how I'm going to address the cockpit, though. I have a cast of the Icons cockpit tub, but installing it requires a bit more dismantling that I'm not certain I want to do. On the other hand, left alone, though the stock cockpit doesn't necessarily scream "toy", it does at least say "toy" to some degree...

The "droid socket" seen in this pic is mostly unaltered, and sized for the stock R2 which is way over-sized. This entire area (R2 strip) will be heavily reworked. I'll Dremel the droid socket such that the forward curvature is much closer to the cockpit's rear window, fill any gaps or holes with styrene, and add a resin cast of a correct R2 strip.

Engines002.JPG
 
The pilot is actually overscaled for the ship. One of the toy compromises. The action figure is roughly 1:18, while the figure in the SS model was 1:24.
 
Any 1:24 scale airplane model. The SS one used the pilot from the Harrier for the torso and the Messerschmidt for the arms. The head was either from some dragster kit or hand sculpted (the figure's helmet looks nothing like the full scale x-wing pilot helmet).
 
Tread is right... But barely. :p

Below is a series of pics that should answer your questions. The raw resin is the Captain Cardboard, the white is a 1/24 race car driver...

Pilot001.JPG


Pilot002.JPG


Pilot003.JPG


Pilot004.JPG


Pilot005.JPG


Pilot006.JPG


Pilot007.JPG
 
Well, then, technically CC's is too big, too. ;)
Of course, whatever anyone chooses to use with their own kit is totally their call, and no one's going to phone the X-Wing pilot figure scale police on 'em. ;)
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Treadwell @ Aug 15 2006, 02:45 AM) [snapback]1300629[/snapback]</div>
Well, then, technically CC's is too big, too. ;)
Of course, whatever anyone chooses to use with their own kit is totally their call, and no one's going to phone the X-Wing pilot figure scale police on 'em. ;)
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Totally agree. If I recall correctly, the Icons was a cast off an action figure which was then scaled down, right (Which would result in a one-off size)? Or was that urban legend...?.

Anyway, the 1/24 race car driver is most accurate to the original models, as Jay pointed out, and may scale out best with the slightly smaller toy FX...

On the other hand, if a builder chooses to simplify the project, the stock pilot would work ok as well.

Also, for those who stated the sotck FX pilot is too big, the size similarities seem to end with the head. Note how exaggerated the torso and shoulders of the stock FX pilot are, corroborating the statements that it is over-sized. Unless its Arnold Schwarzeneggar flying an X-Wing. :D
 
The ICONS guys took a POTF2 Kenner figure and recast it several times until it had shrunk enough for their liking.

I was thinking of doing something similar, but with dental alginate, which shrinks, if I read correctly.

...if I don't do the Harrier/Messer pilot bash.
 
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