ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found
- Thread starter deadbolt
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kpax
Sr Member
One reason we developed the sleeve barrel with Dave at DEC was the ease of fitting for most builders.
I used his steel sleeve barrel on my build and it fit and look perfect... but I did embellish hero details a bit.
Cutting back the barrel or filling the threaded hole to recut seems the best options unless you know a welder that can weld up some material on the bevels. You'd still need to file the barrel back round and file the bevels to profile.
Yeah, those are the two things I'm considering most right now.
kpax
Sr Member
You have a Dremel? Dremel to get most of the material off then just big files will do but takes more time. The good is that you HAVE to go slo.
kpax
Sr Member
You could also just use steel epoxy and fill the gaps. File flat to the upper angles. There would be a thin line of steel epoxy but i did try once and it takes bluing. May have to mess with the blueing a bit but could get close I'm sure. Depends on what your looking to get.
kpax
Sr Member
Watch at 3:00
Hand filing flat barrel end.
I'm sure the Bullbarrel is soft steel so should not be too hard to file.
You use a safety file ( no file cut on edge) and file to the edge of the threading and around and around til you get to the scribed or tape line.
You let the safety edge rub on the threads.
Hand filing flat barrel end.
I'm sure the Bullbarrel is soft steel so should not be too hard to file.
You use a safety file ( no file cut on edge) and file to the edge of the threading and around and around til you get to the scribed or tape line.
You let the safety edge rub on the threads.
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deadbolt
Sr Member
Awesome idea Pat, I think that's a good route to go for.
It's unfortunate that the barrels you've paid for don't match up.. Maybe send DEC Dave (dmachinist) a message if you want something a bit closer?
We all saw his work on the 1/3 scaled replicas, and wow, I think matching parts and tolerance are no issue whatsoever for him to handle.
-Carson
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, there's definitly a lot I have to consider!
And at least on slightly more positive news I managed to modify Todd's custom barrel booster to accept Field Marshal's steel Flash Hider!
At first it was too fat for the set screw holes to line up, though some careful rigging managed to fix that. Things are nice and solid now!
There's still a long road ahead, but we're getting there one step at a time!
And at least on slightly more positive news I managed to modify Todd's custom barrel booster to accept Field Marshal's steel Flash Hider!
At first it was too fat for the set screw holes to line up, though some careful rigging managed to fix that. Things are nice and solid now!
There's still a long road ahead, but we're getting there one step at a time!
That was a bold move chopping that $600 FM Mauser without machine tools, but it looks like you did alright considering! Just curious, what don't you like about Field Marshall's sleeve barrel? To my eye, there's no possible way to tell that it's a sleeve, and it seems to fit really snugly against the upper, and all of his bevels line up perfectly, and could be altered fairly easily if desired.
The milled bottom of the barrel hung too low to be parallel with the recess,, there was some slight gaping around where it joined with the upper, and I personally like the idea of the barrel remaining attacked to the upper without the flash hider needing to be screwed on.
Mostly it was just a personal choice, and one I honestly don't regret. I'd just slightly tweak the placement if I could do it again.
I will say, it was echoed in that video where adam savage made a DL44, there's something satisfying about an item assembled the right way, out of the right parts. It's a little irrational, but I've always thought the barrel was threaded, so sliding a thin sleeve over an existing barrel has always been irksome. That being said, if we ever find out the original was sleeved and welded I might feel better
My dad ( redbutton ) wanted this set up too, and boba debt ended up JB welding it into place. He was able to cut and drill, but the tapping didn't work out. That alone should tell you you did an amazing job
My dad ( redbutton ) wanted this set up too, and boba debt ended up JB welding it into place. He was able to cut and drill, but the tapping didn't work out. That alone should tell you you did an amazing job
kpax
Sr Member
The sleeve barrel as well as the muzzle booster was invented and manufactured by me, Carson and DEC. There is no such thing in real gunsmithing.I will say, it was echoed in that video where adam savage made a DL44, there's something satisfying about an item assembled the right way, out of the right parts. It's a little irrational, but I've always thought the barrel was threaded, so sliding a thin sleeve over an existing barrel has always been irksome. That being said, if we ever find out the original was sleeved and welded I might feel better
My dad ( redbutton ) wanted this set up too, and boba debt ended up JB welding it into place. He was able to cut and drill, but the tapping didn't work out. That alone should tell you you did an amazing job
The NR and other “bull barrel “ Mausers are really “ rifle” barreled Mausers.
We used the term “bull barrel” to simply identify the difference between the original tapered barrel and DL44 barrel while we all discussed and researched the hero. The hero has a segmented rifle barrel fitted to the receiver. Bull barrels are just fat non tapering barrels on handguns to add front weight.
The original rifle barrels were certainly threaded to the receiver in order to accept the 7.63 (blank) cartridge and create a new chamber.
We developed the sleeve barrel as well as a threaded barrel for the original DEC Steel/Al kits so builders had a choice depending on their skill levels.
Drilling and tapping the barrel requires a lot of skill and tools to get it right. The sleeve barrel concept made it a lot easier snd more practical for most builders.
The DEC Sleeve barrel was the exact same dimensions as the threaded barrel and when attached correctly is indistinguishable from the hero.
I chose to use the sleeve barrel for my build since there would be no future need ever to remove the barrel for me anyway and using the MGC thought drilling out and thinning the Zamac frame so much “could” weaken the upper enough that IF ever dropped it would snap the connection and destroy the build.
I epoxied the sleeve in place and can remove it with gentle heat if I ever need to.
But I won’t!
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Willpower.
FM's C96 has the factory Waffenfabrik Mauser Oberndorf engravings, but it does not come with the millitary acceptance stamp, crown over u stamp, or any of the stamped serial numbers. As far as I know those are all things that still need to be added.
I had to bastardize a few tools in ways they were probably never intended to be used, but I managed to get the barrel set up in a relatively stable setup using my poverty lathe.
From there I manually turned the end with the chamfers down using hand files, though it was incredibly tough.
Field Marshall's original run of steel Mausers didn't have all of the serial, safety and crown over U stamps, but I believe he does include them now on his more recent runs.
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